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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by Ctgriffi

  1. To answer your first question... If the 120V heater element is in fact rated for 325 watts, then you should be reading somewhere in the range of 44ohms on that element, plus or minus 10%.
  2. Yep, that’s it: dust cover or dust cap. Lost one on the road and don’t want to drive with the bearing exposed, etc. Was hoping it was a standard, readily available size…
  3. I can't find "front bearing dust caps" mentioned anywhere in this thread. Anybody want to recommend a specific part or know what size is a good fit, possibly?
  4. http://toyotamotorhome.org/images/Axle_FAQ.pdf That ^ link works for me... but is that PDF what you were looking for?
  5. Update to this old thread, for my future self and any others who have to clean out the blower on a regular basis... the three (painful) screws that hold the blower motor in place have 8mm hex heads with M-25 Torx centers. (This time, I decided to just leave the front two in place, skip the rear one when I reinstalled.)
  6. I actually discovered that a standard "full" size fits pretty okay, too, and wouldn't require any modification—might try and go that route, instead. Thanks again for the input.
  7. Hey Linda, yeah… still in SW Missouri, not far from Springfield. The mattress I’m talking about is just 6” of high density foam with 2” of memory foam on top, all inside a lightweight removable cover with a zipper (if I cut the foam down to size, I’d tailor the cover to fit). I’d be interested in seeing what kind of foam you used (links, plz). Also, how thick did you go with it? Thanks!
  8. I'm in the process of replacing the old, original cabover mattress on the Warrior: it's just too beat and worn out, and I'm really eager to get rid of the last hint of "Pine Mist" fabric from this rig! I've built a new, hinged cover assembly for the center opening, and I'm pretty happy with that (really, really, really want to keep that fore-aft access, make it doable to move from cab to coach!). But, I'm trying to make a decision on the mattress. So, I've got about 80" by 51" to work with up there, and my plan was to take a queen-size memory foam (80x60) and cut it down in width. I've got an 8-in thick one on hand right now that could work, but it does feel pretty heavy... and weight is always a consideration in a small RV, so I'm wondering if I should've gone for a 6-in. Anybody have any advice or suggestions on mattress selection—or just any particular solution that's worked well for them in the cabover? Here's the area in question...
  9. I thought that ^ was needed just to get older-style flashers to work (i.e. turn signals) - ? Vicki, do you have any actual voltage at any of the wiring or contacts for the rear running lights? That's where I'd probably start, with a meter—any cheapo unit will work.
  10. For starters, be a good mechanic or have one in the family! Lots of the indicators for tank levels no longer work on these old rigs—it's not a very robust setup to start with, and usually the wires from the tank sensors get yanked or broken after years of travel. In addition to the (important!!!) timing chain on the V6, valve adjustments are recommended every 65K, and also you'll need to find out if your engine had the head gasket replaced or not under the recall. Once you get all the big stuff nailed down, start out with short, local camping trips until you're confident that everything is in good shape for the big trips. Have fun and welcome to the forum!
  11. Obviously the screen looks good, so I'm going to suggest: a) camera is dead/kaputt b) camera has lost power c) video signal cable between camera and screen has been cut/broken. Also, I'm not familiar with that monitor, but if it has the ability to switch between multiple inputs, just make sure it's on the correct one.
  12. Looks like a great time in a sweet little rig. Thanks for posting! Every time I see an awning on these, I start thinking about adding one to mine... wondering about cost/benefit.
  13. I'll just second what others have said and add: you can't really go wrong with purchasing a new power converter at this point, since you have the original (low-tech) unit in place, and newer/better options are available for reasonable prices (one example). Now, are there other electrical problems involved that won't be fixed by a new converter? Possible and probable, but it sounds like you've got a good plan in place to sort the other stuff out, involving your friend-the-electrician. Good luck!
  14. Lot of different ways it could be done and many considerations: cost (and weight) of materials, time to complete, available tools and skills, the rig's realistic value and lifespan, etc. On the plus side, like you mentioned, Jaybees, it's nice to know that Winnebago used some metal framing on these rigs; changes the equation a bit when you're thinking about how much time and $$$ to throw at it! There are a number of threads on the subject—I'll drop mine in here because it's the same construction as yours and because there are some good ideas/discussion in there, but I'm certainly no expert...
  15. Another consideration when shopping: take a look at the fuel capacity of each unit and how long they can run til dry. These little inverter generators have a lot of pluses, but you don't want to get up in the middle of the night to refuel, more than you have to.
  16. Welcome, Hoosier. Grew up in Indiana myself... Indpls, south-side mostly. Yeah you've got a big ol' project on your hands there. I've got the same year Winnie and have been down that road—lots of folks on this forum have dealt with similar at one time or another, as you've probably already discovered. I can tell you that the metal plate you mentioned is not factory but was probably added at some point to improve cabover sag. You can always buy/borrow an angle grinder to go after those bolts if they're stubborn. How's the condition of the rest of the rig?
  17. Great idea! I actually run my 2-way off an inverter while driving now, but I do have to remember to shut it off if parked for awhile...
  18. The third 10ga wire from my battery box is no longer a mystery; it actually went straight to the Norcold fridge and bypassed the power center—looks like Winnebago did that in case a 3-way fridge was installed, which requires significant current (mine is just a 2-way, however).
  19. Probably a number of ways to track down the phantom power loss. I like to use an amp clamp device found on some multimeters (if you've got money to burn and plan on doing a lot of electrical work, buy a Fluke—otherwise you can get a decent Chinese knockoff that'll do the job for under $40). Process would look like this... locate your 12V power center panel and the wires coming off each 12V circuit (usually a separate circuit for lights, water pump, furnace, fan, etc). Use the amp clamp on each wire, one at a time, to see which one is drawing current. If everything is off, the measurement should be basically 0.00 Amps on each of those circuits, so watch for the anomaly. That's where I'd start, anyways.
  20. Yeah, they are standard "auto-resetting" circuit breakers but haven't been bypassed—just wasn't showing all of the wiring in the above photo, sorry. Each of the three #10 wires that head off down the chassis was connected to one of the breakers. I might just remove one and tape off the unused/mystery wire that connected to it, then update the other two CBs with new and call it good.
  21. The three wires that I disconnected (not shown in my photo) from the circuit breakers look like they might be "factree" and all are 10ga. One definitely goes to the panel, one leads to the solenoid/isolator as expected (charging wire), but one doesn't seem to do anything. Found the Winnebago wiring diagram for this model, and it shows a third wire to a possible generator, which I know this rig never had... but maybe they wired 'em all the same, regardless - ?
  22. All is working well, but I'm doing a bit of pre-Spring maintenance since it's sunny and 70º today—topping up my Group 29 with distilled water and cleaning up connections, etc. Anybody know what the three connections would typically be off of the coach battery positive wire, seen in the photo? One circuit breaker is 15A, the other two are 30A. I need to do more meter testing, but only one of them seems to terminate at the 12V panel inside. I assume that one is a charge wire from the Alternator... but what about the third?
  23. Like Linda said, you’ve got some stuff added in there that’s not part of the original frame. Looking at that third photo, can you make a few slots with an angle grinder in order to slide that bracket in? Obviously, you want the bags directly above the axle, and you don’t want to compromise anything important. You do not necessarily need air bags, no, especially if you’ve got good/new springs. If it were me, I probably would’ve drive-tested it some as-is, before ordering the bags/kit.
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