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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
  • Location
    Missouri

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, carpentry, English Lit, etc, etc

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  1. May or may not be relevant at this juncture but just chiming in to say that, whenever a caulk/sealant application needs to look REALLY good, I'm all about laying down plenty of masking tape on both sides of the seam first, making sure the gap between is straight and even: that way, you can apply the bead of product, tool it down, then carefully pull away all the tape for a factory-crisp line. Looks good, feels great!
  2. I don't have a Sunrader but, when the truck is off, the isolator and all that stuff is basically out of the equation (that's kinda the point of that little gizmo). I think you need to be looking at the coach battery more closely (what is its current voltage right now?) and checking the connection between it and your rig's power center. There may be some corroded connections, or a bad fuse, or malfunctioning auto-resetting circuit breaker between the coach battery and the power center.
  3. Household extension cord of heavy gauge will work (10 gauge is best), and you may need a special plug adapter if you don’t have one yet. Note: If you plan on using roof AC, better make sure that nothing else is running on the circuit where your extension is plugged in, or it will likely trip the breaker. 50A vs 30A refers to the amount of current that is available, and our rigs typically only need 30 amp service because we don’t have large power requirements. (Both 50A and 30A are standard 120 volts so you can technically connect to either, but the plugs do differ… so another adapter is needed, if you go that route.) Someone else will chime in if I’ve missed anything 😁
  4. So we're just hitting 9 years on the Nexen SV820 tires that I purchased in early 2015 (all manufactured in '14 according to date codes). They all have 6/32" or better tread with no signs of cracking or dry rot, and we've put roughly 18,000 miles on 'em. And, I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on a full set of Thunderer Ranger R101 tires, but I thought I'd run it by all of you first, to get any thoughts/comments: Is tire replacement WAY overdue at this point? (Internet says YES) Do any of you guys run rubber older than this and care to admit it? Who's currently got the Thunderer Rangers and love/hates 'em?
  5. So we're just hitting 9 years on the Nexen SV820 tires that I purchased in early 2015 (all manufactured in '14 according to date codes). They all have 6/32" or better tread with no signs of cracking or dry rot, and we've put roughly 18,000 miles on 'em. And, I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on a full set of Thunderer Ranger R101 tires, but I thought I'd run it by all of you first, to get any thoughts/comments: Is tire replacement WAY overdue at this point? (Internet says YES) Do any of you guys run rubber older than this and care to admit it? Who's currently got the Thunderer Rangers and love/hates 'em?
  6. Mine's pretty close to 14" deep like yours but doesn't have the bump. Is it really in the way of the the battery? Maybe you don't have any wiggle room on the right-and-left? Here's what my Group 27 looks like when strapped in:
  7. Group 27 seems to fit fine on my 91 Warrior; it's in an exterior box, down low and to the left of the entry door. Maybe yours is in a different place?
  8. Thanks for taking a look, Doug! I haven't noticed any undue leaning in corners yet... but, then again, even after lots of upgrades and repairs, these things still handle pretty darn awful, compared to normal vehicles. I guess my expectations are not high Totally agree about the AirLift quality of service—they truly stand by their lifetime guarantee. A few years back, after decades of use, they were happy to send me out replacement bags, for no charge, and with no questions asked. Amazing.
  9. Thought I'd share two minor improvements to the 91 Warrior that I completed recently: Center Caps My rig never came with any center caps on the front wheels (did they all originally, from the factory?), so I thought I'd make use of a recent hobby purchase, a 3D printer, to come up with a solution. Using Fusion360, I spent a crazy amount of time modeling and then printing about 10 different versions of these caps in ABS, trying to find the best way to engineer the retaining clips so that they could a) bend a little b) hold everything securely and c) not break instantly upon installation (harder than it sounds!). I also put the Winnebago logo on the front, obviously, which turned out pretty legit IMO... we'll see how they hold up, fingers crossed. It was a fun project and a great learning experience, especially in terms of gaining beginner CAD skills. AirLift 25804 Compressor Kit It's helpful to be able to adjust your air bags based on how much gear you've carrying and current road conditions. I typically like to run higher pressure (60+) when I'm doing long-distance, interstate travel on excellent highways—just keeps things tighter and less will-nilly, especially when the semis are flying past you, sucking you into that low pressure bubble (we all been there!). At the same time, if you're not carrying a full load or are just moseying around a state park, 40psi seems to be the way to go on my rig. I always bring a 12v compressor and tire gauge of course, but that process can be a hassle and definitely isn't something you can do on the fly! This kit comes with just about everything that you need to add onboard air to your rear air suspension. There are a few different options in terms of installation (some recommended, some probably not), but I chose to put the control panel near the driver's left knee and then ran the 1/4-in air line with 12v+ behind the vinyl flooring and through a sturdy grommet in the transmission tunnel, down to the compressor unit, which I mounted on the rear crossmember. Underneath, I was careful to keep the air lines FAR away from any exhaust components, and I wrapped the lines in a good bit of heat shield insulation where they passed over the transmission. I may also add some kind of "splash plate" over the compressor unit eventually, but I don't think it's going to get a lot of moisture where it is—if any water does intrude, I added some tiny holes in the downward corner of the case for easy drainage. So far, it's working great and will hold the same pressure for many days, no leaks! Also, due to the remote location of the compressor (and some sturdy rubber I sandwiched between it and the frame), it makes very little noise when running. I just really enjoy being able to adjust the bags while driving, to see the impact on ride and handling. (It IS just a single-circuit setup, however, so I can't adjust left vs right, but honestly I rarely ever did that before and don't mind the loss.)
  10. Love seeing the progress—keep it up, sir! It will be amazing to see this thing back on the road eventually, in all its glory! (Great photo ^ too, with all the drama of a Chernobyl investigation, ha!)
  11. I could be wrong (!) but, as a guy who works in tech all-day, every-day, I think we might be dealing with a bit of AI-generated dialogue... or somebody's just copying/pasting nice snippets from the Interwebs 😁
  12. I’m thinking that it’s always a gamble, to some degree, right? And generally the older the rig, Toyota or not, the worse the odds. In terms of “risk mitigation” you can a) do as much preventative maintenance as possible b) limit the distances involved (and avoid super remote destinations) so you don’t find yourself completely up a creek without a paddle and c) try and become the best shade-tree mechanic that you can be… and bring tools.
  13. High here was just 7F today! Look forward to seeing what you end up making with the leather. A sewing machine is a great way to stay busy/productive in the dead of winter!
  14. Figured this one out finally... the heat strip (photo up above) has a little metal box containing a high-limit switch. I opened that box up and found some sketchy wiring that was creating a path to ground through the box and mounting bracket! Anyway, once I cleaned up the wiring in that box and made sure nothing was gonna ground out again, I put it all back together and tested: Thermostat dial is doing its job now, switching the neutral supply wire off/on as desired. Good deal. 😅 (I tested the little high limit switch in the box too, using a heat gun, and it's doing the thing. If that switch goes bad, you can end up with a completely open connection, with zero heat output.)
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