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About Ctgriffi

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
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  1. Varmints love to chew any of the rubber portions of your fuel lines—I'd definitely take a look at those to make sure they're in good shape.
  2. This hose is pretty standard stuff that any RV parts supplier would have. I've seen it at our local Farm & Family store as well, by the foot. You might double-check your hose's ID, but this 1-3/8" stuff was a match for mine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352191426300
  3. I vaguely remember the issue you've described, when I did this job on mine, couple years ago. You're right, of course, that brackets on the new shocks don't quite match the spacing of the mounting points on the lower control arms. But if you snug 'em down they work just fine, which is probably why most haven't thought to mention it. I didn't really worry about it honestly and haven't noticed any problems, although I like what you've done adding the big washers—looks good.
  4. Been using this same cover on my Warrior for the last 4 years and have been pleased. Good compromise since actual class C covers are ridiculously huge on our rigs. (This cover went for $160, four years ago.)
  5. It is a cool rig with a lot going for it. Shame that it needed a new engine at just 40K though! (Crazy to think I bought my Warrior for about 10% of the Tiger's asking price, back in '15...)
  6. Heat + humidity is often pretty bad in Missouri too (one reason we can only camp during 3-4 months of the entire year ), so I run a baby dehumidifier in ours, 24-7. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DC5PPWM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Pro Tip: You can dump the little tank every few days, or... you can drill a small hole and use a bit of tubing and sealant to let the dehumidifer auto-drain straight down the sink.
  7. I always start by turning on the campground spigot slightly and eyeballing the flow, dial it in where I know it's reasonable (~40psi or less). Then I shut it off, hook up my freshwater hose, and turn handle back to same approx. position. Maybe I'm living on the edge... 🤷‍♂️
  8. It's a very creamy white, for sure, Linda—looks straight-up beige on my rig, but then again the paint is very old and not super-clean. Lots of places can mix up Toyota 033 in a spray can, of course... but prices were around $35-40 for a small-single, which I couldn't justify for this repair. So, kept looking for a close-enough match and landed on Krylon Fusion - Gloss Dover White, which I picked up at Ace Hardware. (Another option that folks mention on forums is Duplicolor's Wimbledon White, about $15 for a mini-can.) It worked out pretty great, after tons of prep, much sanding, etc. I'm letting the paint cure for awhile, before I try to blend old/new with super fine grit, but the color match is plenty good for an old motorhome. (New paint is much smoother and less orange-peel than what the factory did, too.) Photos below are the driver's door bottom right corner—one photo at the very start of rust removal and cleaning, then a final result after body filler/high-build primer/top-coat:
  9. It does mention Toyota’s 033 there, but the cab is quite beige and matches the fiberglass coach. I’m assuming Winnebago painted the cab possibly?
  10. Anybody know of a spray paint that's a decent match for the original beige cab of a 91 Winnebago Warrior? Not really looking for perfection—probably will just respray the cab completely at some point—but need a decent color match for some small repairs I'm doing. Thanks!
  11. MC is pretty cheap and not too difficult to replace if you’re reasonably handy and have some metric wrenches and sockets around. I did it last year on my 91 Warrior. Best to have a second pair of legs around to help bleed, post-repair.
  12. Plenty of info out there, like you noted, but I'll take a quick stab since my rig is also a 91... Front shocks: KYB KG5458 (KYB is not the gold standard in suspension, but these are quite good and also affordable) Rear shocks: KYB KG5438 Air bellows/bags: they don't really need servicing—they either hold air or they don't. In terms of replacement if they are punctured or leaking, lots of people like the AirLift 57113 LoadLifter 5000 package. You have shocks: two in front, two in back The shock installation, in my opinion, is just about the easiest (and biggest bang-for-the-buck) improvement that can be done on these 30+ year-old vehicles. You probably could find somebody to do a lift, but most would advise against it. I'm sure others will chime in on this. (Working air bags and properly set torsion bars might just get you a few inches of clearance.) In my experience, worn out rear-suspension bushings will also contribute to a very harsh ride.
  13. Haven't come across one of these before, although my family had the standard Space Cruiser van in the mid 90s, when Dad was stationed in Europe. I remember the little mid-engine 6-cyl, just behind the driver's seat—that thing would generate enough heat through the carpeted lid to melt my little brother's crayons! (Also, I got it up to 100mph once, driving alone on a downhill stretch of the autobahn.) 😅 https://springfield.craigslist.org/rvs/d/springfield-1985-toyota-campervan/7485711182.html
  14. What kind of fridge do you have? They’re not high draw units anyway, especially in RVs, so you don’t need to go big on converter amperage. I’ve used one of the Powermax PM3 units for the last 5 years (35A, I believe) and haven’t had any problems. Does a much better job of maintaining/protecting the coach battery, which is the main reason to upgrade from old Magnetek units.
  15. You need to be looking for the right rear wheel cylinder on a Toyota 1-Ton Pickup; it's all about the chassis, not the coach or RV model, when you're talking bout auto parts. Your chassis might be an 89 or 90, but anyway here are some options: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1990,pickup,3.0l+v6,1277793,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+cylinder,1952
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