mustrmrk

I'll be checking for that and, probably also pulling the furnace today. I'll let you all know what I find.

We've been living in our Escaper since April - so it's home to us, not a vacation <g>. The issue isn't being able to move fast - we took 3 months to cross the US because we actually enjoy going slow on back roads, exploring and meeting people. Compared to our sailboat, the Escaper moves at the speed of light! My concern is that the little 22re might just not be able to pull us over the next hill. A couple of weeks ago we were at about 10k ft going up the mountain at Great Basin National Park in 1st gear and I wasn't sure if we'd be able to make it. It's a narrow steep winding road and I was uncomfortable with the thought of having to stop and turn around in the middle of it. Maybe I need to add a nitrous system just for big hills <g>. Seriously, though, we're not even considering adding turbo or anything big or expensive. We're just wanting to squeeze out a bit more power at higher altitudes. I looked at Google images for "22re high altitude compensator" and then at our engine, and I don't think we have one. I'm just wondering if a bit of extra timing advance might help, and if so, how to implement it. Thanks all, this list has been invaluable!

Dang - I was afraid of that. Anyone know anything about a "high altitude compensator"? How to ID, troubleshoot, etc? I don't know if I have one, but it seems to me that if I could get my timing a bit more advanced at higher altitude, the fuel/air would have a bit longer time to combust.

I've been having an interesting problem w/ my Isotherm 12,000 btu furnace. It only seems to start if the batteries are above 12.7 vdc or so. The motor squealed a bit the first few times I started it, but now it seems to be fine. My current assumption is that the blower needs the higher voltage to spin fast enough to close the sail switch. I have very limited access to the side of the furnace, so I tried pulling it, but after disconnecting the gas line and removing the screws that secure the flange to the cabinetry, I was unable to pull it out by gentle rocking / pulling. Being on the road and not wanting to screw something up, I decided to put it off until I was someplace w/ access to parts for a few days. We are in Tempe, AZ visiting a friend, so now is a great time to work on it. After disconnecting the wiring and board connector during my aborted removal attempt, and reconnecting it all, the heater started fine for 2 mornings at 12.25 - 12.4 vdc. The third morning it failed to start until I ran the genset and battery charger to get the voltage up to 12.7 - then it fired right up and kept running after I shut down the genset. Electrical parts cleaner on the board connector had no effect. I just read that I need to remove the screws from the exhaust to remove the unit, so I'll be giving that a shot.

Since replacing the head gasket, MAF pigtail and TPS pigtail my 22re has been running a lot better. At less than about 5k ft, i'm getting 15-17 mpg whereas before I was getting 13-14. Both before and since the gasket, at about 7k ft I begin to notice slight power loss - no misfiring, but it just seems to take a bit more pedal the get going. Once I get to +9k ft, I'm having to mash the pedal pretty well, and there have been a few times on about a 9% grade I was afraid I might not make it even in 1st gear. When I did the head gasket, I also replaced the water pump, radiator, and fan clutch. Before the new parts, I would regularly see 1/2 to 2/3 on the gauge. Now, regardless of how I work it, the temp guage never goes over about 1/3, so I'm sure it's not overheating. Many years ago I had an old 1955 Dodge pickup w/ a flathead 6. When I was living in Denver for a time, I had to advance the timing and adjust the carb to run a bit richer to make it run right. Then, when I headed back East, I had to reset the timing and carb to factory specs - otherwise, it would ping. The engine doesn't miss or ping (at least noticeably) or "sound funny" at altitude - the only symptom I've been able to detect is a gradual loss of power as the altitude increases. Timing is factory spec at 5deg BTDC w/ jumper and 12deg BTDC w/o jumper. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor shortly before the new head gasket. The TPS has been adjusted following the "feeler gauge" procedure at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml. I also changed the fuel filter. Can anyone tell me how the 22re's EFI system compensates for altitude changes, or if it even does? Do I need to make any manual adjustments to compensate for high altitude? Is my ECU failing? Any other thoughts, suggestions appreciated. Thanks

What a great forum! I'd been having braking issues ever since I installed my new rear air bags - felt like only the front brakes were engaging, and I was really getting nervous. I had noticed the LSPV in the brake system, but didn't really understand it's purpose. After searching the list I found several threads and decided to adjust mine. VOILA! Max adjustment = greatly increased stopping on my 87 Escaper. Thanks all!

I've had these same symptoms appear caused by a bad connection to the MAF sensor - after 28 yrs, my connector was worn out and the spring retaining clip was gone - I replaced the cable end and the problems went away. You might also check the air hose that runs from the intake to the MAF / air filter - it that's leaking, the MAF signal will be inaccurate.

I installed my top pieces from the inside - I doubt it really makes a difference and I probably would have been better off to mount them from the outside. The bolt holes aren't quite perpendicular to the frame since I don't have a right angle drill. I have brake lines in the way on one side and the exhaust in the way on the other. I ended up having to drill at a bit of an angle but I figure the bolts are primarily to hold the bracket in place - the real work gets done by the bracket being flat against the frame and unable to move. On my rig there are some old brackets welded to the frame just forward of the old jounce bumpers that made getting the top pieces aligned front-to-back a close fit. However, I was just able to get them in there w/o modification. Had to work a bit to get the spring / differential case u-bolts loose - some PB Blaster on overnight and a long breaker bar did the trick. Other than that the install went very well. My warranty replacement bag is due in today and I'm hoping the R&R will go fairly easily, since I've already been in there once.

Quick update - I just installed my new pigtail this morning and it's working great. No problems at all.

I just purchased and installed the Air Lift Ultimate 5000 air bags from sdtruckparts.com and am very happy with them. They installed easily and work very well. Unfortunately, one of them has had a leak since I installed it. I've been unable to find where it is, so I called Air Lift. It turns out that "once in a while" new bags can leak around the end caps and be very difficult to find w/ soapy water. They're sending me a replacement bag under warranty. I'm not happy about the leak and having to R&R the bag, but their support has been great.

Hard to beat the discount I did get - $0.00 <g>.

My TPS connector is worn, the clip is missing, and the plastic is broken. So I started a search for a replacement pigtail. No luck online, although I wasn't exhaustive. My stepson, a certified Kia mechanic in Redding, CA, said it looked familiar and took my TPS to work with him today. He came home with a pigtail that looks like it was made for my 22re. It is keyed perfectly and the pins match up perfectly. The only drawback is that the spring retaining clip is on the manifold side, making it a bit tougher to get off and on than the OEM connector. At any rate, if you're interested, the Kia part number is TKL06-A2700, it's $12 (not sure if that's retail or his price) , and it's a good part number. It's a connector for the ignition fail sensor - not sure what year or model.

I had - and lost - a small plastic cover plate that plugged a hole in the front of my bell housing just aft of the oil pan. It wasn't round like yours, but you might try looking there to see if that's where it came from.

Update - I replaced the MAF Sensor connector a couple of days ago and (knock on wood) the problem seems to have been resolved. Also had to reset the timing since I also had the dist. out when I replaced the head gasket, timing gear, chain, guides, and cover last weekend.

Update - I found the part number on the shroud - it's the same one everyone's selling for manual transmission only - 1671135020 - so I just went ahead and ordered it.

My issue with the MAF sensor was not internal to the MAF - it tests out as healthy using this protocol: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml As I suspected, my issue was with the actual electrical connection between the harness connector and the MAF. The old connector had no retaining clip and the spring tension on the individual wire connectors was nearly non-existent. I ordered a new connector ($20 on eBay), cut wires to remove the old connector, and soldered and shrink wrapped each individual wire from the new pigtail back into the harness. Before the repair I had intermittent and variable power loss and associated poor mpg. Now it runs reliably and efficiently.

Thanks, Linda. After a bit more looking around, I found this: http://toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.com/p/Toyota_1987_4Runner-2400CC-EFI--AUTOMATIC--4-SPEED-COLUMN-SHIFT-LOW-DECK-PICKUP--DELUXE/SHROUD-SUB-ASSEMBLY--FAN/42965046/1671135030.html Looks like the correct part for the upper shroud for a 1-ton automatic w/ towing package.

I just replaced my worn out fan clutch and in the process managed to tear up my old, brittle, cracked fan shroud. In searching for a replacement, I haven't been able to find one for a 1987 w/ an automatic transmission. Most of the ones on ebay say "manual transmission only. Does anyone know if there really is a difference? And, if so, do you perhaps have a source for the correct one for the automatic?

I've got the same one, I think. I found it kind of tucked away on top of the intake when I pulled it to redo my head gasket. One socket is perpendicular to the other. No idea what it's for, though. If you figure it out, let us all know and I'll do the same. I also have another mystery wire below the intake, it is a blue plastic two wire female with the two sockets inline, but I don't know what that one's for, either. Ah, the joys of owning a 28 yr. old vehicle w/ who knows how many previous owners.....

Also - wouldn't an injector persistently running rich carbon up its spark plug enough to identify the problem injector?

JD - I'll be very interested in how your new injectors work out - I've been thinking about replacing mine, too. Also, being a 22re newb, I'm on a big learning curve, but perhaps this might be of value. When we were heading West through N. Dakota last month, we had a 25-30 mph head wind one day. Needless to say, we stopped early. When we filled up the next day, I was appalled that we'd only gotten 9.4 mpg. I didn't know you could even push that much fuel through the 22re engine! I believe the engine was "acting up" that day, but not badly and the headwind was masking the problem. That was the most abysmal fuel mileage we've ever seen in the RV. However, on days when the engine is acting up (I suspect the connection to the MAF sensor) we'll see symptoms that vary from slightly lower power across the board leading to excess fuel use) to very low power at low rpms and plenty of power in the higher rpm range. I can't pin it all on the MAF sensor, however, as several other connectors (TPS, temperature sensors, etc.) are also old and missing their retaining clips. With that headwind, I was running in 3rd gear -no overdrive - with the pedal pretty much to the metal. At any rate, I just replaced the MAF sensor pigtail and, once we get the motor back together this weekend, I'll be running diagnostics on the EFI. I would suggest also looking at your MAF and the other EFI electrical connections as possible contributors to your problem.

Don't know - I would suggesting contacting S D Truck Springs - they can probably give you a recommendation.

Yeah, I plan to visit the timing when I get there. Unfortunately, a head gasket leak was allowing exhaust into the coolant so I'm pulling the head to redo the gasket. I've also had a persistent oil leak out of the timing chain cover, so I'll be redoing that, as well. I'll be replacing hoses, belts, a screwy coolant sensor, etc., etc., all the usual suspects Once I get all that back together, I plan to go through the EFI system and see if I can get the whole works running better than it was. I suspect the MAF sensor for my acceleration problem. It doesn't happen all the time and, when it does, messing with the connector sometimes cures it. I've ordered a new connector I can splice into the harness. And so it goes....

Yeah, #1 isn't really like any of these. Imagine putting it into 1st gear and flooring it. There's no power. Slowly the rpms increase until about 2/3 my normal "going-uphill-then-back-off-so-it-can-shift" speed and all of a sudden it's got power again. It's a real noticeable, sudden change from no power to power w/ no change in throttle position.

I'm wondering if any of you 22RE gurus can help me figure out what's going on w/ my 87. Here are the symptoms: 1. gutless performance until maybe 1/2 to 2/3 throttle, then bam, plenty of power. 2. no flat spot between acceleration and deceleration - what I mean by this is, if I'm going downhill, give it enough throttle to accelerate, then back off, it's either accelerating or decelerating - I'm unable to get the throttle in a more "neutral" position where the engine is neither working nor braking - it's either accelerate or decelerate, w/ nothing in between. I have no idea if these two symptoms are related. As a matter of fact, symptom #2 seems to ALWAYS happen, and symptom #1 is only occasional, but getting more regular. I've downloaded a bunch of "how to"s for the TPS, the MAF sensor and other EFI-related stuff and plan to start testing later this afternoon or tomorrow. I'm just wondering if these symptoms sound familiar to anyone and, if so, where the best place to start looking might be. Thanks.