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OHHHHH Silly ME... i just found it in the Toy site.... :-) repasting here... hope thats ok wow all of this to take off the drums... any suggestions on not having to use the SST tool??? or is it nessisasary to use.... i guess its really the best way... a quik thought ??? suggestion :-) http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6104&page=1 V Dully_Rear_End_Overhaul.pdf

Toyota Advanced Member 114 posts Posted 23 August 2007 - 01:41 PM I second what Nolan says.Remove the half shaft (getting the cone washers free is a b$#@^%) Remove the ring nut that preloads the bearing Slip off the brake drum / hub does anyone have a manual or link to where this is shown...or could jot down a couple of things for me :-) I have a full floating axle on an 82 Toy -- no idea what model yet of RV, and Diff.... yet though i will... i need to pull off the drums check the back brakes -- and i have never seen full floating axles before with a dulley set-up so from what i quoted... and what i am interested in---- is what to do to remove the ring nut and the settings to record? and re installation directions..eg. - torque#'s. Is there anything special i need to know to remove ring nut to get the brake drums off... and on reassembly... thanks in advance ---

WEBER TUNING GUIDE 22R 32-36 carb (all emissions removed other than the catalytic - new one installed (this is what i did after lots of research) --0 suggest to read from the beginning of that thread.... lots of good info... My settings -- goal was to pass smog/ air care in Vancouver BC. and improve running of the 22R the normal weber settings are very thougho http://www.sv3power.com/?page_id=371 and http://www.yotatech.com/f114/weber-tech-tuning-newbies-tuning-261129/ this is what i did... as i understand the weber set-up is LEAN and generally better to run a little richer and help extend the life of a hard working engine on an 82 Toy and get a little more pep up the Hills -- a little more power.... Hope this helps -- it took me a long time to find and figure it out.... thread is here also worth a read from the beginning... http://www.yotatech.com/f114/weber-tech-tuning-newbies-tuning-261129/index2.html premium 91 octane gas changed timing advance to 4deg (factory recommended 8deg) increased idle mixture jet up one size to 65 (from stock 60) increased main jet one size to 145 (from stock 140) idle mixture screw = 1.25 turns out (failed at 1.75 for air care testing) adjusted after air care cause it seemed to run better to 1.50 turns out.... cold choke set to run ok ... idle screw -- set to idle 900rpm changed catalytic convertor to 3 way (better at dealing with most and esp N0x's) Vancouver auto parts # 608204 was only 100.00 this probably the most influential esp on N0x's (and was what I needed to be reduced) everything else was very low already... NOTE: my engine had all the emissions removed or capped off as well as no air pump or EGR valve... passed air care in Vancouver Canada with flying colors... got 30 mpg -- tho really i have to look at that again -- i kinda don't believe it -- I'll do other tests and post... while away on holidays... stock engine r22 with Weber 32-36 new timing chain and new cylinder head... compression on engine within specs.... with 2 lines running on the distributor V

between 75 and 83 they did use on pick-ups (C&C) w/"K" type calipers they seem to be odd and rare -- raybestos - super stop front pads= # SSD197 semi metalic nappa = # TS7120 raybestus = # PGD 197