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Everything posted by 88WIT

  1. To Bajadulce, et. al.; I posted the slide-in Sunrader photos (2008, Logan, Utah) to the Gallery (my first) for others' benefit as well, intending them to be discreet. Perhaps others can add something interesting over the holiday to bump them down from the front page. I'll have to talk to Greg about future posts to deep background. I see other slide-ins here in San Francisco from time to time. I wonder if that Mazda has the rotary engine? Steve R.
  2. From the album: Slide-in Sunrader

    © Toyotamotorhome.org

  3. Bajadulce, I spotted this in Logan, Utah, 2008.
  4. Try Giusto Service at 4249 Mission St., 94112. Phone # 415-586-2911. Paul Giusto is the proprietor, but may be easing into retirement. He has a class A. They'll remember my Itasca. They did mine when I couldn't get to it. I also bought tires. Regards, neighbor. SR
  5. Mark; That may be an auxilliary overdrive switch which would be used when you're above 4,000 ft. elevation. At that height, an altitude sensor tells the computer to disable the overdrive button on the shifter. What's your altitude at home where the vehicle is now? If below 4,000, test this by driving with the OD off and use the toggle switch to go into 4th. Does your Overdrive Off light work? If above 4K, your OD button should have no effect, so you test by using the toggle to go into 4th. I've found the pressure (altitude) sensor to be pretty accurate. I've spent a lot of time in the mountain west so I quickly had to install my own toggle. The lighted lever is a nice touch. Steve Runng
  6. Dennis; My hope was for a grand tour this autumn which would've brought me close at the right time, but for once life has intervened with happy occasions: two weddings sandwiching a college homecoming. Can't get to Galesburg even for a drop-in visit. So I'll grab a rental car in Chicago and cut a swath (and back) through central Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, northwest Pa., and western N.Y. Oct. 2nd - 12th. I'd like to contact you on that run, and any others interested in tidings from the West Coast. I'll pm Pat and Dennis (moosepucky) and yourself. You see, I was all set for Turbo Greg's redwoods event the weekend of Oct. 6th. out here. Judging from the Big Sur rally last spring, it should be melll-ow. At any rate, in spite of a leave of absence from work since March, I couldn't make the the recent SoCal or eastern Sierra gatherings, and I need another fix. Anybody out there in the fertile crescent above? My poor Itasca sits pretty, awaiting the call to a ball; the 4X 'Rader furrows her plexiglass brow, brooding over mismatched front and rear shoes. Steve R. San Francisco
  7. Go with the six-Cly if you have the chance and the money. These chassis are maxed out with weight and you may not be prepared the sluggishness of hill climbing. If you test drive a four cyl you'll be shocked. The six gives you a fighting chance.I'm starting down the road Diesel Mike mentioned and will try to boost the four cyl to allow it to hold top gear on the freeway. I tried to get into a six this year but several units were misrepresented and I ended up back in my '88 which is full of memories, reliability, and very nice interior. So I've invested time and some money to gussy up a four-cyl. Some models have a decent shower, some have wet showers (toilet standing in the shower). The real limitation is holding capacity and hot water supply. If you're hooked up with sewer and electric (and have an electric option on the water heater) at a campsite, there's no reason not to use your coach shower. Your personal preference may be otherwise. From a sanitation standpoint, your coach is a known quantity. If you have any doubt, you should opt for a finished unit. There's an adage that goes 'you'll end up paying more in the end for the fixer by the time you have in the same condition as the initially better unit.' That's my experience. But I have the satisfaction of craft, and better capacities. As you have anticipated, there is significant outlay to get into the game and you can't compromise on the vitals. But once set up with this chassis, the Toyota will take you a long way with only basic maintenance. You can go anywhere except a 20% uphill grade. You should have an RV roadservice plan. A standard tow truck can take you, but will need to disconnect the driveshaft. The coach can be the real money pit, as the standards of construction vary widely and owner use and abuse can border on appalling. You mentioned 'several thousand dollars.' That's nothing, really, for an investment that can bring a lifetime of memories. You're in an appreciating market, especially for the V-6s. You may have to wait for the seasonal prices to ease. I'll send you a private message if you'd like to talk directly. Steve R.
  8. My 88 4x4 is a pickup not a motor home. It has a stock 4x4 axle not a dually so would not show you anything as far as what you need to know about your dually axle. Right. But I was hoping I'd get lucky and see if your cables come down the right and fan out. It might show me potential anchor points. Your backing plates might be what was original to this '86 and show me the entry angle.
  9. Greg; I'm leaving my Honda EU2000i home this year as I have the inverter setup and am installing a 160-amp alternator that claims 70 amps at idle and full amps at 1200 rpm. Point is, if you need to try it out, I'd be happy to loan it since we're practically neighbors. Quiet it is.... I'm going to try a small microwave this year, and in theory I'll have 840 watts available at idle, but with my extending squeegee on the gas pedal I'll have 1920 watts. Perhaps someone has advice about an idle-up relay arrangement that's more elegant. Greg? The Honda 2000 can be had for $849 from a magazine ad, or $999 at Camping World. www.speedwaysales.com/Honda I have the 'twist-lock' style waterproof hatch as well and no rodents or ants will get in past it. It was a little difficult getting the male and female heads onto the 10-gauge 30-amp RV cord, so a piece of romex on the interior leg will ease the job. It's nice not having to fight the cord back into the space, which now becomes storage, while the cord hangs behind a shroud on the rear. One nice aspect of the portable gen is not having the transfer switch: you're either plugged in to the gen or shore.... Steve R.
  10. Do you mean the computer and other smog items follow the engine from the donor vehicle?
  11. Sorry about the double click / double post at 7:41 in "Engines...". Can one of those be pulled out, or the two combined. At the moment only one has been viewed. SR
  12. (from previous topic 'Axle Removal')Diesel Mike, and others; I thought I'd start a new string since we're now talking about axle installation. Those must be progressive leafs, or some of them, or it would ride like a buckboard. (Did those have any suspension?) Since the Bilsteins are repairable, are they adjustable? I may have need to delete the rear anti-sway (one side is broken loose now) when I eventually get to the '86 'Rader 4X4 and re-do the homemade conversion. I plan to drop the spare and get a holding tank in there. Right now I have a ragged package over the axle and short shackle that leaves the back end very low. It looks severely back-loaded without any gear or stowage. I also need info on the dual parking brake cabling as it comes back along the right side from the transfer case. The previous owner left the shackle on each cable end and just looped them around something, never completing the conversion. The cables at the brake end of the replacement axle were simply cut off near the drums. At your leisure, Mike, can you send a photo from your '88 4X4 if the cabling comes down the right side? Turbo Gregs cabling ('85 4X4) is split right and left conventionally. My front half is stock and tidy, but I see no anchor points whatsoever at the rear end. Hopefully, a picture of the arrangement at a standard 1-ton axle (not the full floater) would show me the original arrangement. Steve R.
  13. I'd like to stay on-line this year while traveling and have begun the process to reconsider options. I'll be out back much of the time. I'm not enthused at the prospect of wi-fi at private campgrounds, and public ones, for the sake of security. I've had three serious breeches in the credit card world so I'm sensitized to this factor. My wireless carrier is Sprint so I can use the phone as modem but I don't think there's much coverage in the wilds of Nevada, Idaho, and Montana for my outbound trip. Inbound through Yellowstone and via interstate and U.S. highway the prospects are much better. I know nothing about pricing/minutes/security for this option. It always seems to come back to satellite for broad, reliable coverage. The last time I checked a couple years ago, this is pricey. I'm in the middle of my two-year AT&T DSL plan at home and would hate to carry both plans since I'm not on the road that much. Is anybody connected right now or simply willing to provide their experience? Steve R.
  14. Yes. I'll mail you personally this evening. Thanks, Steve R.
  15. Mike; Is that the diesel or the gas job? Do you have the anti-sway bar removed for painting? Steve R.
  16. I've got two weeks before departure and have noticed an incremental gain in performance in my '88 22RE as I shed weight, enough to think for the first time that maybe a 10-to-15% increase in horsepower would make this a viable long-term keeper. I'd like some opinions on basic tune-up products as well as some specific changes I'm planning to make. This is a California registration. Rotor, cap, wires, plugs -- can I get any real advantage here? Does anyone position electrodes on standard plugs, relative to intake/exhaust valves? Air Filter -- I plan on K&N, but retaining the Toyota 'box' arrangement. Injectors -- I've seen a claim that the Bosch four-point spray delivers a significant gain. Coil -- Downey Off-Road advises against a hotter coil for fuel injection. ECU -- This is the big one. I see Diesel Mike saw a significant uptick (six-cyl) after the reprogramming at JET. Has anyone reprogrammed the 4-cyl computer? The websites for Jet and Downey claim about a 10% boost. A tech at Jet tells me the emissions testing would remain compliant, but the visual inspection would fail. The trick is to get a replacement computer and run it to make sure it works, then send in the original for programming. I haven't found a California dually auto ECU. I'll try Toyota this week. Thoughts? Steve R.
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