Maineah

Check with your local parts store they probably can get you an exchange unit. That compressor was used for years should not be hard to find a used one either.

Some after market outfits made pans with tubes welded in them front to back so the air would pass thru them and cool the fluid. Never sure how all that worked out but it sounded good.

Just make sure you have power to it before you replace it they are not too cheap. There is a switch inside that senses pressure I'm not sure about your pump but some you can replace.

It will if there is some air in the lines does it stay off once it's stopped? If it doesn't you may have a water leak some where.

It’s typical for manufactures to use small wires but at 3’ the loss is minimal but putting your battery on the roof is not particularly handy and yeah putting the controller near the battery is a good ideal too. # 10 awg would be your best bet. 45 watts is a nice figure that should do a good job for you.

What is the wattage of the panel? The larger the better the loss at 12 volts is pretty high use #10 or #12 if you can.

I would recommend taking it to a transmission shop or a good shop that understands transmissions. The low and reverse use an entirely different applications inside the trans. You may have some thing as simple as a bad universal joint.

If that is all he could tell you I would invest in a belt and give it a try! What you are probably feeling is rust on the clutch face the clutches are metal and within a few cycles the rust will be gone. If you get it running see if it cools and is reasonable quiet then sit back and enjoy! The worst case would the compressor stops turning and trashes your new belt but you are no worse off then before.

I get right around 15 with my "87" Nova Star 21' auto 4cyl.

My guess would be a ground plane for a cb or ham radio antenna. Interesting choice use what you got.

I agree with shoprat this maybe one for the pro’s. If the compressor locked up there will be metal every in the system. The oil travels with the Freon thru the system and deposits metal every where if the compressor gives up. It generally collects in the expansion valve so that’s some thing that will need to be replaced also along with the dryer. If there is a Freon leak the oil with escape with it and if some one just replaces the Freon (way back in 86 you could still buy Freon with out a bank loan) and does not add oil that’s a bad thing. Once upon a time the systems were flushed with R11 under pressure now I’m sure there is some thing else to take its place. You should be able to replace parts, compressor etc. but you will need to have some one clean it out and vacuum it down after the parts are replaced and the system flushed. New 134 fittings will have to be installed also. If you just lost the clutch for some reason you are smiling but if you can not turn the end of the compressor it’s locked up.

Should be some where near your power cord the ideal being that you can run your generator while you are on the road so you'll have no cord outside the coach flapping in the wind. I am assuming yours has a built in gen set. should be a 30 amp socket mine is fairly well hidden inside the door for the power cord.

What a great ideal! How about the cost?

Tough answer there were different kinds of inverter/chargers some of them you could upgrade some you can’t (I had one of them). What I did with mine was remove the entire old unit and rewire I kept the basic box because it had the breakers and 120 volt wiring but tossed the charger/inverter. I probably lost 25# of old junk that thing weighted a ton! A good place to ask questions is bestconverter.com very knowable people and they probably have the best prices around also. Send them an email with what you have for a converter and they should be able to tell what is available for your unit. 45 amps should be all you would need the new units are so much better they even cut back the charge rate to give you all the 12 volt power you need when plugged in. I personally like the Xantrex chargers they make all kinds of solar inverters and controllers and we have had really good luck with them. They are not hard to wire because they have none of the old style relays and junk the old ones had just 120v in and 12 volts out so your load and charge wiring tie together one to the battery and the other to the 12 volt lights etc.

Dumb question but is it plugged in? In the shore power compartment there is a socket that goes to the generator and the shore power cord plugs into it in order to get power from the generator.

Usually the charging system is direct wired to the main breaker (30 amp) in the breaker panel. So as soon as you plug it in the charger starts to work (there is a relay inside that switches between inverter and battery). The A/C and the outlets are on separate breakers one 15 amp (outlets) and the other 20 (A/C) So it sounds like you have an issue with your 120 volt wiring. This may also explain your house breaker problem as the fridge plugs into an outlet in the coach. Try unplugging the fridge and plugging it in direct to your extension cord. Hopefully you can fine some one local that can help you with the wiring it’s best not to fool with it unless you know what you are doing it is bonded to the frame of the MH and you really don’t need a hot frame in your truck! I would be real skeptical if the old owner said he has done some work to the wiring. The charging system leaves a lot to be desired it is poorly regulated and will boil the water out of your battery if you leave it plugged in. If you don’t mind spending some money on the charging system get a new 3 stage charger/inverter. As far as the battery I’ll guess 4-5 years with proper maintenance.

Ok a little science. The mix is controlled by various inputs, throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor and a few others like O2 sensor. What the O2 sensor sees is the result of all the inputs this is why the voltage is quite active the mix swings from rich to lean and back again constantly so what this achieves is a theoretic perfect mix over a period of time (a perfect average). The O2 sensor lets the ECU see what is going on. So in theory you could use the voltage from the O2 sensor as a diagnostic tool (as long as it is known to be good) if it remains high you know the mix is too rich (bad coolant sensor maybe) if it’s too low maybe a vacuum leak. If the ECU see a flat voltage from a bad O2 sensor it’s kinda lost so your gas mileage suffers maybe not a whole lot but noticeable (I had one go bad on my MH and it dropped about 2 mpg. on a long trip) By in large the fuel injection systems are really good and quite trouble free. O2 sensor are expendable and do go bad over time so if it is not active at idle it needs to be replaced they are not that expensive and at $4 now 2 mpg is a lot of money. So the voltage an O2 sensor outputs is proportional to the fuel mix it is reading does this make sense to you?

Yes an O2 sensor can affect your mileage. It is an easy check if you have a volt meter. I believe all the 22RE only used a single wire (no heater) and it’s green, at idle the voltage should range from 0 volts to 1 volt it’s not important what it is as long as it’s active. If the voltage remains steady or just wonders a little bit it’s time for a new O2 sensor. Low voltage= lean mix high voltage= rich mix. I have used the crimp on connectors many times and have never had a problem with them some say you shouldn’t but they are a lot cheaper and work fine. Generally a bad O2 sensor will throw a code it may come on then go out when you accelerate any good parts store will have them. I can’t remember if the V6 has two or not and I believe they have heaters (heaters were used to preheat the sensor make them work sooner). OBD2 code scan did not come out until “96” and Toyota used a check engine light code reader to decipher the codes. There is a check code terminal under the hood in a little box you jumper two pins and the engine light flashes a number of times you then use a look up table to match the number of flashes to the code (on line stuff try check engine codes) As far as a knock sensor I think only the V6 had them they seldom go bad and that is a good thing because it is under the intake manifold in the middle of the V If you want to check one use a timing light and tap on the block with a small hammer and watch the timing mark see if retards. Hope this helps you.

Nice, looks like it has the big rear under it too.

I know there are guys in the states that race VW TDI's and use LPG for more power check into tdiclub.com there are sections that deal with non TDI stuff and they have a great data base.

Guess it's nice to have the back window clean I know the back of mine gets really dirty. Your ideal makes sense but that's a lot of flat I would think if the tractor trailers had a wing then I'd put one on.

I have a Suburban heater in mine and the tank was leaking I bought a replacement tank for $208 replaced it and then found a complete new one for $240! It has a thermostat adjustment behind the gas valve really hard to even see but it works just a small lever. Mine has a pilot that has to be lit but if I just light the pilot over night it alone will heat the water quite nicely.

A lot of the bigger guys have heater loops from the engine now that's free hot water! If you are close to power that is kinda like free heat (guess you pay for it in camping fees) I go out for a week at a time using heat and cooking and the shower and I never use more then about a 1/4 tank of propane but like you say if you can plug in why not. LP is not getting any cheaper. Let us know how it works out if you get one.

What kind of water heater? Who made it?

I don't know if I would bother the heater only holds 6 gals. Mine will heat up in about 10 minutes and if I light it and just leave the pilot on it will be hot in the morning. Doesn't that have to have 120 volt power to work?