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I think the 82's had a cast iron 5 speed, they were terrible transmissions if you can even find one! They had extreme bearing failure problems the 4 spds were fine. I maybe all wrong on this one but if it is a cast iron 5 speed do your self a favor and keep the 4 speed. I really don't remember when they swapped to the aluminum case but they were OK.

Your title said you have a 92 so here is the drill for a 92. The radio comes out the front, remove the knobs from the heater controls (they just pull off) then remove the panel that the control shafts come thru this a a little tricky if you have some thing like a dental pick that works great. You can bend a small hook in a piece of stiff wire, stick it in the slot for the controls turn it so it catches behind and pull the heater panel out. Behind it there are two screws remove them and then pull the big trim piece off (it snaps in) If the radio is stock it is held in with screws. If you are going to replace it most radio shops sell adapters that just plugs into your wiring it will have to be wired to your new radio but the best part is you don't have to cut your motor home wiring.

We are trying to see if we can scare up some Toyota Motor Home ham radio operators I know two, K6GPH Greg (turbo Greg) and my self N3LYT, Tim (White Crow) So if you are a ham please jump right in with your call sign maybe we can get some thing going. Maybe even a list of hams for the site thanks in advance 73’s Tim N3LYT

Try www.toyotanation.com they do all Toyota trucks and I think they lean towards the older ones too maybe one of those guys would know where you might find one

That's pretty neat! Is it in good shape? Yeah please post some more pictures. Don't know a thing about it though sorry.

I think I would back away from that one. It sounds like you could do a lot better with $3,800. If there is mold there is wet and with out pulling some panels off you can not tell how much damage has been done to the roof frame work. The Toyota's are not rare they made lots of them so just keep looking until you find a nice one.

Be very careful wiring your new converter a short to ground on your trailer lights will reduce it's life span to about .03 sec.

Well not knowing too much about it,it would be a good ideal to check every thing! One biggie would be tires, check the brakes, general safety inspection, tie rod ends ball joints, exaust that kind of stuff. Maybe a good tune up all new filters and oil, pack the wheel bearings just a good going over then you know what you got. Turn on your propane and have a good sniff around before you light any thing, fill it with water and check for leaks make sure your hot water tank is not leaking then take it for a nice ride in the general neighborhood listen for any strange noises and see how it feels. How many miles does it have on it? Looks like a decent repaint and it does have the proper rear so it looks like you got a good one. As far as the generator 2800 watts is all you would ever need most of the guys rear mount a Honda or the likes after they hear the price of a new Onan. Have a ball they are really neat motor homes you will enjoy it.

Toyota once upon a time sold remanufactured assemblies they were very good rebuilds and a lot less money. I'm not sure I would buy a rebuilt from a parts store.

I can’t find a picture of the floating rear but what you need to know if it does have a crush tube on the pinion it can be over tightened when you replace the hub. I think it is shimmed so that may not be an issue but I can’t remember for sure. The tube sets the bearing pre load and it is meant to collapse when tightened it is a one way deal so if it is tightened too much there will not be enough clearance for the pinion bearings and it will cook them. Usually you can get away with this because it takes a lot of torque to collapse them just don’t get carried away with a huge bar and a pipe. Don’t forget the new seal!

If they are full floating rears and the studs are long enough there should be no reason you could not use both wheels. I'm going to say the wheels were probably 15" so you would need to find 14's of course it would not matter if the rear came with out wheels you would still need wheels any way. There is and old long bed Toyota rusted out truck not far from where I live I think I'll stop and have a look it does look a bit "stouter then the stock truck don't guess it would do you any good Maine is even further away! If it's floater it might be worth hauling better then having it pushed into the woods.

Toyota 4X4 were 6 bolt but not full floating rears only a single bearing. You would have 6 bolts but the same problem. Really the only way out is a full floating rear they are easy to tell apart they have an external axle, extending from the center of the wheel you'll see a small hub with several small bolts that is the axle. It is called a floating axle because the axle carries no weight. I'm not sure what you are talking about with a single wheel 1 ton truck but you would need to look at the hub to see if it's a floating rear if there is no hub in the middle the axle is carrying the weight htat's not a good thing.

Pretty much any one of them from "89" on.

I like the benches why not a table with a post between them? Did the same thing with mine but only one side made a nice comfortable bed with a 5" mattress that couch was the most uncomfortable thing made.

If they are that tight that is probably why the compression is down. There is a special tool that pushes the edge of the lifter down that allows enough room to get the shim out making one would be a pretty neat trick. The shims are selective so you need to try a thinner one. Hard telling about the valves guess you got to get some clearance in they first. Yeah those pesky critters can build a nest over night and of course you know where the fiberglass came from. I live in the middle of no where and I check all of my filters every oil change.

2,800 watts should be sufficient, as far as the generator that’s pretty cheap. I have what is probably a smaller version (1,500 watts) and it is definitely Chinese.. I use mine around the farm and it does the job and is quiet, long term don’t know so far so good. My MH has the 2,800 watt Onan and it is fine for A/C, microwave and pretty much any thing I need to run. Be careful of the generator rating often they rate the generator at peak watts not running watts so check the tag and make sure you are getting what you want.

WME is right the Onan is the way to go it is designed to work in a closed environment external exhaust, hot air discharge remote start and designed to be in a closed in space and takes gas from your fuel tank so filling is not a problem or a danger. If you just want a generator with out great expense just get a Honda or some thing take it out of the generator box and sit it on the ground when you want to use it.

Good plan Supurcar if you are not 100% confident as to what you are doing it's best left to the experts. The heaters are pretty safe but they are full of fail safe controls and they all have to be in perfect condition.

Sounds like it might be a fan issue not enough battery or dry bushing in the fan motor. Can you try it plugged in? There is a switch that the fan moves if there is not enough air the switch will not actuate and that will turn off the gas valve. Also check for restrictions in the heater exhaust port, wasp nest etc.

Try this one: http://www.all-rite.com/ they have some interesting trim stuff.

Absolutely, I know you guys from out west will say eastern mountains are nothing but hills but I live in the mountains of Maine and travel to NH and VT a lot and going thru the notch of Mt .Washington I have to drop to 2nd gear pull over to the right and just go slow enough to keep the engine at a speed that it does not sound like it is going to explode. On the highway mine will stay in O/D but slight hills will do it in and it’s down to 3rd so if it shifts a lot turn the O/D off it’s better for the trans and yes the drive line too.

Probably not because it shifts fine other wise. They had some problems with sealing rings in the rear of the case but that caused some big issues with shifting. Usually if you floor it it's all ready going slower then you want to go and it takes some time to return to the speed at witch it shifts and you can delay the shift by keeping your foot to it. Basically transmission line pressure is directly related to the amount of throttle so by keeping your foot to it it shifts later you'll notice if you lift your foot it shifts all most immediately if you are going fast enough.

The first thing that has to happen is the fan no fan and it will not light. There are many interlocks involved before the heater lights and it's not the type of thing to tinker with unless you are sure of what you are doing your neighbor may not like motor home pieces in his yard.

Your laptop should run fine from the battery even with a small inverter 90 to 150 watts (assuming of course the battery is charged) laptops take very little power only about 45 watts a hot battery should run a laptop for several days. Seems like some thing is wrong, your inverter should run it just fine if that is the only thing running. I have a little plug in inverter that I use for my laptop and I have found that they some times do not make very good contact with the lighter socket and it drives the inverter nuts.

Good move they seem to make the most noise it idle and go away when you rev the engine a bit. It is good to be tuned into your MH you can avoid lots of problems that way.