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It is a small round seal behind the linkage, I have removed them with a small pointed screw screwed into the metal part of the seal and plyers. Getting it back in is easy with a deep socket.

How many wheel lugs and does the inner hub have several small nuts?

Starter contacts problems were very common on the older starters basically a click and nothing happening the contacts are replaceable. Try removing the main battery wire on the alternator then trying your current test again. Yes it is possible that a diode is bad but it's not common.

Long way from the switch to the light! Simple stuff first, had it been working fine up to that point?

Start current of the AC is high the start cap is a good place to start. Go to a electrical shop with the old one so they can match it they know what they are doing and it will be cheaper.

Usually the lighting is fused right and left.

I'll never swap out my propane water heater it's fast enough, it's hot and yes get over a long hot shower in any camper! There is just not enough room to make it much better. Both my Toy home and the camper will recover during the night for plenty of heat for a bed time shower and even dishes. They make flash heaters they suck up propane and are wicked noisy.

Flashers etc need resistance to work, the LED's provide little or nothing this is why you have to provide resistance. The bulbs in the original set up have enough resistance. The marker tail/ lamps are not part of the scenario so the problem is not related.

You most likely will have to add a resister to the led circuit.

This is where a cheap multi meter comes in. It kind of points to a tired converter or lack of power to it. (poor 120 volt connections)

Yes it has a low pressure pump. My guess one pump for both.

Shoot that's glue holding the bulb in a junk socket!

If the fluid is nasty and dark it's just a matter of time putting new fluid in most likely will finish it off. If the pump seal is leaking the pump bushing probably is on it's way out. They are good little transmissions but in a motor home they are over worked.

Ok just read the whole thing bottom line no matter what you do will prevent an overhaul. New fluid on a hard worked trans with issue you'll be walking with in a week. The new fluid is highly detergent and most likely take the clutch's out. They are actually good old transmissions. If you could drain the converter that will only make it worse with the new fluid. I worked for a transmission shop we actually saved drain oil from transmissions that was clean looking. After trying to explain to the customer the hazard of using new fluid in one that had brown oil we when ahead and drain it and put the oil we saved in it instead of new. It bought them more time.

That ain't brake fluid.

Use the propane it's cheaper and works better to keep the fridge cool. Been all over never had the flame blow out.

Common issue on the older starters. There is a copper disk inside of the plate on the back of the starter and two contact studs, You will find the studs pretty beat up, the round disks on the older ones could be turn over and the studs could be removed and turned 90*. Seems like yesterday but it's been a couple decades since I used to repair them! They actually are pretty tough starters same ideal is used today.

Home made any thing goes. I'm guessing but the free lead probably went to the battery. Fog light's etc? The feed wire is not big enough for 30 amps needs to be a # 10 wire.

Fell across an Onan 4K generator out of a large MH, with out a doubt it's was the quietest generator I ever heard. That particular generator was a four pole that allowed it to produce 60 cycles at 1800 rpm as opposed to the 2 pole at 3600 big difference. It along with being heavy was BIG!

Can you see the little blue flame in the window on the control panel?

It's going to howl cold for a bit it's the gook inside of the clutch (it's thick) it warms up fast and goes back into the normal mode.

Often fused right and left.

Right hand drive?

It is accessible with a code reader my guess shift solenoid.