fred heath

JD, You can add 100 springs if you want to. It will stiffen the ride but do nothing to correct rear sag. The axle sits above the top leaf. You either need to add an air bag to elevate the coach or install extended shackles in the rear. I found 3" of shackle extension gave me about 1.5" of body lift.

JD,You can still get fenwal control boards. I purchased mine new last year. The company is located in Mass. (I believe). They no longer make these parts but there's a company in the Midwest? That has all their surplus. They only sell to dealers and the part number has been changed. I got mine through a local plumb/heat supplier. It was expensive($125.00) but an exact replacement. And mine did go in the middle of the winter.

The key phrase here: "is possible" as stated in the Haynes manual. By disconnecting the oil pressure pigtail you effectively remove it from the equation. A defective oil pressure switch should still allow the pump to run in the "start" position. It "is possible" I may win the lottery.

Your fortunate in some ways. Because your engine is a 1978 the intake and exhaust manifolds can be left in place for head removal. I experienced a similar problem with my engine. I had an overheating issue and couldn't figure where the coolant was going. Top of the radiator dry when hot but overflow full. After new thermostat and radiator cap, still the same problem. Finally did the old drop of crankcase oil onto hot exhaust manifold. Yep, it sizzled instead of just smoked. For a stopgap I added "Bar's block seal". It's pricy at $32.00 from Auto Zone, but seems to be doing the trick. I've ordered the head gasket and will be changing in the near future. It can't hurt to try it. Not sure you would want to go long distance with it.

With the pigtail from the oil pressure switch DISCONNECTED turn the ignition switch to ON and either listen for the fuel pump running or pull the hose at the filter and check for fuel flow. The oil pressure safety only becomes active if a running engine should loose oil pressure. If you disconnect the pigtail you will know for sure if the pump is working.

Donnie, My toy is a 1978 with the 20R motor (carburetor). The manual says "it is possible" regarding the fuel pump/oil sender. Keep in mind this manual was printed in the UK. The 20R came out in 1975. Some info could relate to earlier engine types. On the fuel issue; As I stated earlier, pull the hose at the carb, crank the engine and see if you got fuel. Also check the fuse for your fuel pump in the fuse block. Many times it just process of elimination.

JD, Reread my post and show where I said you need oil pressure to start.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251331686238&cmd=VIDESC

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/rvs/4041039838.html This looks to be in really good shape.

Chassis is a 1978 or older. Side door is kinda neat.

I use a solution of tsp and bleach. Follow the box directions. I put my solution into a pump sprayer, wet the home with your hose, and attach a soft cleaning brush to an extendable paint pole. You'll need a step ladder to get the roof done. The tsp is excellent for heavy duty cleaning and the bleach will lighten the yellow. This will remove any wax or sealer on the home. Be sure to seal the finish after cleaning.

Check CL under services. There's a lot of backyard guys and small shops that are happy to make labor only. Get a price up front for the work. Good Luck.

Keep in mind that metal "expands" when heated effectively reducing your gap. It makes more sense to go with .009 and .013 for a cold setting. This will get you closer to factory specs. I've always set mine hot. Cold would be good for initial settings, but hot is more accurate.

Probably a simplistic solution and not totally accurate, but park on what you know is a level surface and place an 18 or 24" level side to side. If tire pressure is equal and correct, the level will be a good indicator of how balanced your load is. Don't forget to add your weight into the equation.

Most valves have to be set "hot", with the engine at normal operating temperature. I suspect those with little or no valve clearance either had a cool engine or the adjusting screw moved downward when the locknut was tightened. Rechecking the clearance after final tightening is very important. On my 20R intake is .008 and exhaust .012. Not a large gap to start with.

Very dangerous if you fail to disconnect the main breaker prior to generator hookup. Coming from New England (where power outages occur regularly) I discussed this issue with an electric company linesmen. His response was they could send a surge of high voltage through the line effectively frying your genset. They don't have the time to knock on doors.

Try "Rock Auto". several different quality's to choose from.

If you follow the hose from the "potable" water fill connection it should lead to your fresh water tank. You should also find a pump connected to the tank or near the tank.

Plenty in PA. On the return trip I left the interstates and traveled secondary roads. 881 miles nonstop except for gas and 3 hours of sleep. Still maintained 21-22 mpg. for the trip. Driveline was fine the whole way home. Synthetics work really well in older vehicles.

I've never used tape for a sink install. It probably works fine, but seems you would only have one shot at getting it in and centered over your drain pipe. Once in,you would not be able to shift the sink around. I've always used a bead of silicon. Any excess can be removed with a razor blade after it dries. Makes a nice watertight seal.

I just completed a 990 mile road trip from Raleigh NC to Hampton NH. The trip took a total of 27 hours with 24 of that being straight road time. At a speed of between 55 and 60 I averaged out at 40mph for the trip. Gas mileage averaged 21.89 mpg. The 20R ran like a champ with no overheating or mechanical issues. Not bad for a 35 year old vehicle. Keep in mind my vehicle is a 16' with no bathroom or holding tanks. Total weight with me 4200 lbs. This explains the high gas mileage. I love my Toy.

My ID tag was on the driver side door pillar. It was hidden behind the seatbelt. Hard to see unless you physically move the belt to one side.

^ what she said ^

The only thing on paper is your responsibilities. Which you both agree to prior to accepting the job. Everything else is personal records and no money changes hands. In essence its the barter system. Technically it's taxable by IRS standards, but only if someone is stupid enough to tell them. Same for the state. Agreed responsibilities will save you from that 8pm knock on the door asking for your help with something not agreed to.