fred heath

Seized caliper(s), or defective proportioning valve. Are you sure you hooked up the proportioning valve correctly?

http://account.autoglasshosting.com/nswizard/?zip=03842&year=1978&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&bodystyle=2+Door+Standard+Cab&_ob=WS&_os=&opening=WS&A=Q&acct=w2g This company has pretty good price on glass. I found the rubber seal on eBay.

Pictures would help. If your valves are the same as a "ball valve" the handles should run parallel with the water line when in the open position. I'm not familiar with your particular rig. Pictures will help other members identify your problem. I'm assuming when you say "no hot water" you mean no water at all. If your getting water, but it's cold on the hot side then the problem is with the heater itself.

My toy is an older home. 1978 chassis with 79 body. I have a fuse link between the battery (+) and the headlight circuit. I also have one from battery (+) to the fuse block. I believe the idea was to separate the two circuits in the event of a current overload shutting everything down. I.e. You could loose main power but lights still work and visa-versa. The newer models probably have a different setup than mine.

Actually, its not. A fuse will blow instantly if zapped by excess current. A fuseable link is more like a "slow blow fuse". It only melts when subjected to high current for a prolonged time. Can you imagine driving down the road and have all your electric shut down from a brief electric surge? That's what would happen if you had a regular fuse vs a fuse link.

A fuseable link is actually a short piece of wire usually 4 American wire gage smaller than the wire its protecting. I.E. 12 gage wire would be protected by a 16 gage fuseable link. This "link" melts at a lower current, protecting the circuit. The links are usually enclosed by a special high temperature cover. A link unlike a fuse would have to heat to melting before it closed the circuit.I use 14 awg links for both lights and fuse block.

195/75/14 diameter 25.516". Circumference 80.161" LT 205-70R-15 diameter 26.29". Circumference 82.621 " Not a big enough difference to matter. I chose 205's for this reason.

Depends on your isolater. If you have the solenoid style with 2 large posts on top, it would go alternator to one post.Using same post run to engine battery. Remaining post to coach battery. Small screw post for ignition supply wire. You could also have a fourth screw post for ground. If you have a transistorized unit with 3 top posts, middle post would be alternator attachment, other two to engine battery and house battery .

GM 8 lug Dana has the same gear ratio as the Toyota 4.10. The width would equal your dual wheel setup but allow the use of single wheels. The spring perch would have to be flipped over, and rear driveshaft modified to mate to the GM axle. 15" 8 lug wheels with 205-15 Lt tires on the back. 8 lug adapters on the front Toyota rotors and same wheel and tire will complete the package.

Seems like a lot of $$ to have a toilet for the few times you may actually need it. Most campgrounds, restaurants, and stores have public toilets. Reading the mfg. data, the refills are 3 for $49.95. With 15 flushes per refill that's about $1.11 per flush. As far as removing the existing toilet and black holding tank, I would consider what kind of impact that would have if you ever decide to sell your mh. Just playing "devil's advocate".

The basic cab, chassis and drivetrain on Toyota trucks is exceptionally safe. There are no design flaws I've heard about. But as mentioned earlier it is a small truck. Any similar vehicle would not hold up any better in an accident. As far as axles go, they're only a problem when foolies and excess weight are added. You must keep in mind that this is only a small pickup truck. I think they hold up great given that they were never designed to carry a continuous thousand pounds of extra weight. It would be like strapping a baby Grande piano in the back and driving around with it all day.

Look at the reputation the Chevy "Corvair" and the Ford "Pinto" had. It didn't stop people from buying them and driving them on a regular basis. I think the thing that toy owners have in common is we drive slow regardless. Personally, I'm always in a defensive driving mode on the road. Not so much over concern for personal safety, but concern for the hundreds of hours (& $) I've invested in my rig. The one advantage we all share is the ability to get off the road and rest or even sleep in comfort. I hit a blizzard on my trip south 15 months ago. Pulled into a mall parking lot, fired up the furnace, cooked a meal then went to bed. Next morning, the roads were plowed, the sun was shining and I was on my way. Accidents happen. Defensive driving helps to lower those chances.

Sound like "Urban Legend" is talking.

Looks like it has the bad axles. Price seems reasonable. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/rvs/4385762827.html

You should have 2 links. One for your main fuse panel and one for your headlights. Replace with fuse links only. You can get them at AutoZone in the electric section.

Everything is a buyoff. If you have the ability(s) to do the majority of the repairs yourself and the unit can be purchased for the right price, I say go for it. At least you will know what parts are new rather then depending on the po to have factual data. As we all know, these old homes are always needing something done to them.

Foolies. Same setup as on my rig. If the units light enough they should be fine.

I agree with John.

Found this link today. Looks like a good repair source. http://www.arcticold.com/

You could always try a NOS system. Bet it would help on the hills.

More info is needed. When you say "no power" do you mean from the coach battery to the 12v fixtures,or are you talking about charging voltage from the engine?

3/16 and some 1/4 in. should work. That's what I'm using. Get a good quality hose. Some of the cheaper hose tends to dry out quickly. Like Montana suggested, a good silicone hose would be great. As far as a "dwell/tach" unless you have a "points" type distributor you would not need the "dwell" function only the "tach". Amazon has a good inexpensive dwell/tach. It's analog not digital, but works well. I have one myself, and always carry it with me.

Not series. The tag axle is a "dead axle" placed directly behind a live axle. It allows extra weight carrying capacity. Some are air operated. Not sure what system was used in the older toys.

It's called a "tag axle". Some of the early Toyota motorhomes had them.

You defiantly want a lift. Any qualified garage could do the work. Remember this is mechanically a Toyota 1/2 pickup. New clutch setup material cost $100-150.