fred heath
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Everything posted by fred heath
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I’m not familiar with your particular model year truck. Does your dome light have a sliding tab to turn it on ? If yes, they usually have a total of three possible settings. Left activates with door open, center is off, far right is to turn on independent of the door. Make sure your not on the center setting. Many late model trucks the dome light is activated by the door being open or turning the (rheostat) knob on the headlight switch fully counterclockwise . You will need a simple test lamp or inexpensive voltmeter to do any troubleshooting.
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What year is your camper, who made it and how long is it? The reason why length is important is because the original factory wiring harness was configured for a standard truck bed. Motorhome manufacturers had to extend this harness to fit the coach body. Many times they used wire with a different color code than factory Toyota wiring. Identifying the correct color of your brake wiring by simply looking would be a guess at best. I have several different wiring diagrams for early Toyota trucks. Depending on your year I can give you your factory wire color for the brake wire. You would then need to find the original factory harness termination point under the truck and see what color wire was used for the extension. Chances are a pinched wire somewhere is shorted or a corroded or damaged socket. Voltmeter or test light will be needed.
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Hooking the isolator to the wiper motor wire was a common way to tap into an “ignition hot” power supply. Using a test light or volt meter try to locate another ignition hot wire to provide necessary power. If the isolator is redundant with your new system, just delete it. A common problem on early model Toyota’s when using the wiper motor wire to supply the isolator was the motor speed was reduced due to the isolator voltage draw. On early 2 speed wipers you could actually loose your high speed function completely. Edit: upon rereading your thread if your only concern is restoring the wiper motor to be independent of the isolator just rejoin the two blue wires together.
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Any locksmith can rekey that lock. I’m not sure a replacement lock will be as durable. It’s your choice.
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What’s wrong with it? Why does it need to be replaced? You can disassemble the entire unit for repair. The internals are fairly easy to rejuvenate.
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I have two close friends that both want my rig when I pass. I actually added their names with first right of refusal to my will. Unfortunately, today you need to be either mechanically inclined or have deep pockets to keep these things running. If you live in a metropolitan area it means renting a storage lot or finding a friend with a big back yard that has no HOA involvement. Sometimes family is just not in a position to take these projects on. My greatest fear was my rig getting sold for peanuts due to the amount of upkeep required. I can rest easy now.
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/290527223452241/?mibextid=dXMIcH 1987 warrior interior. Looks like a rooftop AC is included in the mix.
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Chlorinated brake parts cleaner works great on tough stains and leftover adhesive. It evaporates quickly. You want to spray on then wipe off. It doesn’t hurt the paint or clear coat. I keep a can in the truck at all times. You can even use it on stains you get on your clothes.
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Air conditioner issue. Compressor unable to start.
fred heath replied to deedubs's topic in Electrical
You should have a total of 3 capacitors. Start, run and fan. If you’re going to replace one capacitor you might as well do all three. A capacitor such as the ones in your a/c are good for roughly 20 years. I replaced all 3 of mine for about $100. You can add a hard start capacitor to the system at the same time. Take pictures of everything BEFORE you start unplugging wires. All your capacitors will have id numbers printed on them as well as voltage. Just be sure to replace with same. No need to order through your a/c manufacturers. Before doing anything. Find a source of shore power to test the unit first. -
Shackles are supposed to move with the leaf spring. If your shackles were too far forward, they were installed too tight. As a leaf spring flexes up or down, its length from main eye to shackle eye changes. Since one end is mounted solidly (the main eye), and cannot move, the length changes happen at the shackle end of the leaf pack. When this movement can’t happen it can cause binding and a poor quality ride. A longer shackle will allow the spring to drop down farther while in its resting state. At this point, the shackle will be going inwards toward the axle. It may also allow the spring to flatten out more as it compresses (but this can be limited by the frame side mount, or a rear crossmember). During compression the shackle will be going away from the axle. It will also add a slight change in ride height. You probably lucked out when you installed the longer shackles. Not that they increase the ride quality, but they can now move as expected.
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Go to Walmart. Buy a”Slime” tire repair kit. Less than $10.00 They have new valve inserts, a multi-tool to remove them, even a small thread tap if needed. Easy fix for a common problem.
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You might make something like this work. https://www.google.com/search?q=boat+seat+swivel+mount&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
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I would get it weighed BEFORE purchase. If the remodeling causes the vehicles (even empty) GVWR to exceed the Manufacturers rating, your state could refuse to title it. Better to find out first……
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You can double up the output from the factory water temperature port on the engine with a “T” type fitting. I’ve attached a photo of my oil pressure sender configured to run the factory idiot light as well as my Auto Meter supplemental gage. A similar setup could be used for water temperature. Fitting is dirty, but gives you the idea.
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If you don’t find a second battery under the hood check the floor for a trapdoor setup. Sometimes they recess the battery compartment there. Good Luck
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2014647928876884/?mibextid=dXMIcH
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Did you check under the hood? Many times the coach battery is located there.
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Lots of companies online. You’re looking at about $1.50-$2.00 per mile on average for a long haul. If it’s roadworthy, it might be more economical to hire someone to drive it for you. With the cost of fuel today it might be even more expensive.
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May, 2023 Beginning '82 Sunrader renovation
fred heath replied to IdahoDoug's topic in General Discussion
I’m pretty sure the GO82 and the F292 (71/2” r&p) are interchangeable. It’s been years since I’ve done this work so don’t quote me. Plug in your year of manufacture and see what shows up. The early cab and chassis were known as special purpose vehicles. If only one listing shows up, go with that. If you have a local Toyota dealer their parts department can find the correct number using your VIN or chassis identification. You don’t need to buy from them, just get the correct part number. I might be putting the cart ahead of the horse. I’m assuming you have the GO82 axle. That’s what most of the motorhomes use. Check for a metal ID plate usually attached to the drivers side inner fender or firewall. I’ve attached mine so you know what to look for. Also added some axle info from my FSM. Mine’s a 1978 but assembly should be the same.