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fred heath

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by fred heath

  1. Yes to weight. No to axle shafts. The GO82 (3/4 ton) axle shafts up until recently we’re not available anywhere. These are the only shafts that will work for you. Linda s found a source. Get the specifics from her. Bearings should be standard size. I’m guessing you have the GO82 rear axle. Most of the motorhomes use this one. You might want to check your build plate under the hood just to be sure before ordering. I’ve attached my plate so you know what to look for.
  2. First thing to do is have your rig weighed. The crucial weight is that over the rear axle. If your rear axle weight is 4K or less, you can switch to single wheels. This will eliminate the stress placed on the factory semi float axle shafts. With a semi float axle the entire weight over that axle is carried by the axle shafts themselves. On a full float the axle assembly carries the full weight. The axle shafts only need to turn the wheels. The factory Toyota 5 lug semi float axle (GO82) is plenty strong when used with single wheels as intended with the weight centered over the bearing assembly. To carry additional weight most motorhome manufacturers added a second wheel to the axle. This caused the center of gravity to move to the outside of the bearing hub. Over time the constant flexing of the axle shafts caused them to break. When this happens the wheel assembly will completely detach from the vehicle. Not good if you’re traveling at highway speed. A good parallel to draw is if you’ve ever watched a weightlifting match. With regular weights close to center the bar stays relatively straight. When heavier weights are added to the outside the bar will actually droop down when lifted. This is the same principle as your foolie axle. Switching to single rear wheels is a good first step. Replacing your existing axle shafts and bearings will essentially give you a factory fresh rear axle. If your rear axle weight is over 4K then you’ll need a full float axle.
  3. Before spending cash on suspension upgrades, you should consider what you’re going to do about your foolie axle. At the very least, you should replace the axle shafts and rear bearings. Ideally, upgrade to the 6 lug ff axle. Suspension upgrades won’t repair a broken axle.
  4. Wasn’t thinking about that. Forget my baby is really small.
  5. I’m running Jr. west coast mirrors. Perfect size for our cabs. Plenty of choices online. Fit System H3541 Driver/Passenger Side Replacement Jr. West Coast Universal Mirror https://a.co/d/iC6CMgS
  6. Marlin Crawler has a great data base to work from. I’m sure you will find the torque settings you need.
  7. Never worked on a Toyota ff axle. You should be able to grab the plate and pull straight out. Axle shafts are heavy, you really need to pull hard. Some lubricant will spill out because most ff axles use “splash” method to lubricate the bearings. GM axles have no seals on the shafts themselves. The paper gasket WME mentioned is what keeps the oil from leaking out.
  8. Common thread pitch for most Toyota is 1.25. Try a local hardware store or even places like autozone sell metric bolts and nuts.
  9. Be sure it includes the black metal cover plate for the guts. It’s crucial to the cooling process for the unit. I’m sure it was just removed to show insides.
  10. W50 was standard on SR5’s of that year. Try dealership parts department and see if you can get a factory part number for that cable. Then google search that number for aftermarket products.
  11. GO82 is a special 3/4 ton axle. The setup is not the same as the pickup. Nothing is interchangeable between the two. The GO82 is 4.10, the 6 lug is also 4.10 (I believe). Makes no sense to swap the pumpkin even if you could.
  12. I’ve never seen that quick fill setup while traveling. Always the first style shown. I do carry an ACME 1 3/4” adapter (fits my tank) in the event I stop somewhere that doesn’t have that particular adapter available.
  13. There’s several Chinook owners groups on Facebook. You might have better luck trying there.
  14. You might be able to make this work. The price is right. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flame-King-2-Stage-Propane-Gas-RV-Regulator-with-Rain-Cover-G2R150B/314273436
  15. Charbroil is most compact 2 stage regulator out there. What’s on the other side of the box where the regulator is hitting against? Can you dimple that area out or even cutout a small section to accommodate the elbow and gas line? Just brainstorming.
  16. This is the regulator you want. It’s compact in size and should fit your tank compartment. I’m using this exact setup now. It can be bought on Amazon or even Lowe’s for about $40. https://www.charbroil.com/universal-dual-stage-propane-regulator-9059398?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv93h2pzjgAMVq0p_AB3eaw5PEAQYAiABEgIbr_D_BwE
  17. There should be a metal build plate attached to the tank somewhere. That will give you the manufacturer’s name and tank size. Most RV tanks are made by Manchester Tank. You may have to scrape some of the crap off the tank to find the plate. You can contact the manufacturer directly for correct part numbers. If no longer in business, an online search should provide some answers. Propane warehouse might also be able to help. It might make more sense to try and find a garage or business that does sandblasting. It will take you forever doing it by hand. IMHO
  18. Most propane dealers won’t touch your tank due to liability issues. I did basically the same thing you’re planning to do. Replace everything needed. Try to find an equipment rental yard that uses propane. They should have a propane filling station. Many times it’s easier to get serviced at a place like that than a regular dealer. As far as the purging, I don’t believe I ever had to do that. I just put about 1 gallon in the tank and ran my gas appliances until the flames were uniform. Didn’t take much propane to do that. Then refilled the tank to full. You could also ask the person filling the tank to do a purge. Some will, some won’t. If your tank looks all pretty and new you will find it’s much easier to get service.
  19. If you don’t have any luck with this forum, try with Toyota mini’s. Members specialize in Toyota pickups. https://toyotaminis.com/forum/ I’ve been a member for over 10 years. Lots of wrench turners that can probably give you some recommendations.
  20. The truck mechanical’s are 1987 Toyota pickup. The exception being the 6 lug rear axle. It is also made by Toyota but used on commercial trucks and chassis’s. A Hayne’s manual for your year truck is a good starting point. As far as the coach part, most appliance systems are generic to all motorhomes. If you ask specific questions on this forum, someone will have the correct answer.
  21. https://www.etsy.com/market/toyota_motorhome The stickers look pretty cool. Also some owners manuals.
  22. Don’t know what to tell you. Somewhere you’ve got a short in the brake wiring. Until you find and correct that problem nothing is going to change. Sockets can go bad internally. They can look fine from the outside. I’m not saying this is the cause but you have to start the process of elimination somewhere.
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