fred heath

6 lug ff axle and 6 lug front hubs have some value. Worth about $1K. Coach is junk.

If you take the time to read the link I posted earlier in this thread it will answer most of your questions. This is a screenshot from that link showing pitman arm index marks.

Why do you want to switch to single rear wheels? Or did you make that decision after starting your trip.

Did you do any preventative maintenance before embarking on a 1200 mile road trip ? And more importantly, are you running duals on a foolie axle?

No trailer tires …….

Your Weber problem could be the two piece adapter used to mate it to the Toyota manifold. They are known for problems with vacuum leaks.

The 4K number is usually the maximum safe weight for 2 tire axle withC or D rated tires. Some tires might be rated slightly higher but you want to leave a little “fudge factor “ for things like luggage or even bumps and potholes. I would guess you’re very near the cutoff line for singles. 3800 can be done. Did you fill the gas tank and fresh water tank before weighing? If not, do that and then weigh again.

Think of your pitman arm as a ball joint attached to to a metal extension. Ball joints need replacement over time. So do pitman arms. Unless you know for certain the age of your current arm it makes sense to change it out now rather than wait and have to do it later. That arm is crucial to maintaining steering integrity. It just makes sense to do it now with everything open. You might want to do your idler arm at the same time.

Use a new pitman arm and new 32mm bolt, not the old ones. I’ve attached a link that you should read. This is a well written article. https://www.roundforge.com/articles/pick-pitman-all-about-stock-and-aftermarket-toyota-pickup-and-4runner-pitman-arms/#Toyota_Pitman_Arm_Installation_

Well my whole rig was carpeted in blue shag rug. The floors, walls and the cab floor. I didn’t even want to consider the amount of strange DNA on that floor. 😮

I did that very thing. I wanted to switch panes of sliding glass on my side windows. Cut the weld with a rotary tool and cutoff blade. You should be able to spread the frame enough to get the glass out. When I reinstalled my frame, the rough opening was a tight enough fit that the frame compressed itself back to original. Shoot some sealant in the crack just to be safe.

I gutted mine down to the shell. My home is a 1979 with steel cage frame and fiberglass cover. I knew my gutting would have no structural issues. If your home is traditional wood frame I would be careful so as not to affect its strength. A clean slate allowed me to configure the coach to my liking. Nothing of the original floor plan remains. I have a strong background in the building trades. Cost was materials only. I provided the labor. Any improvements you can accomplish on your own you can do. If you need to contract work out, that can get expensive. Painted cabinet’s and new fixtures would definitely modernize things.

You need a 6 wire voltage regulator if your alternator uses the green plug. Early Toyota used a 5 wire voltage regulator. If your VR is 5 wire, the green plug alternator won’t work. You need the older style alternator. Your vehicle is late enough in production that it would use the 6 wire VR.

If you have no luck with local suppliers, any company that manufacturers hydraulic hoses can make you a replacement. Google search for companies near you.

Pop the distributor cap and watch the rotor as the engine turns over. If it spins around, the timing chain is still attached.

The fitting spins around the tube. Once the fitting is free of the body, just pull the tube straight out.

Try flipping the wrench over. Sometimes you can get a better grab with the handle pointed down.

You could try a 5/8” SAE wrench. It sounds like the fitting has been rounded over. Vice grips might be needed.

Are you using a flare wrench? A regular open end wrench will round the fitting over. 6 pt is what you want. Worst case, try a small set of vice grips and see if you can loosen it that way.

Trans fluid has a high flash point. Technically, it could get hot enough to burn. I’ve never had it happen to me. wipe the area down really well. You’re directing the heat onto a specific area. keep an extinguisher handy just in case. If you’re uncomfortable using heat, let the WD 40 soak for a few days.

Leave the flame on as long as you can. You want the metal to almost glow. Then immediately use your wrench. Best method is to loosen….tighten…..loosen…tighten, back and forth until you feel the fitting start to move. Then you should be able to just unscrew it. Good luck.

If you have a small bernzomatic torch you can try heating up the fitting. The expansion many times will help with the removal of frozen threads. You must be careful not to melt any of your rubber hoses. I’ve seen people use a bernzomatic grill lighter to get into tight spaces. I’m not talking about the ones that look like a candle. I’m talking about the ones that look like a mini torch. You can buy them at places like Walmart. Here’s an example from Amazon. Butane Lighter Torch Long Lighter Jet Flame Windproof Lighter with Visual Fuel Window for Fireplace Kitchen Grill BBQ Camping, Black (No Butane Included) https://a.co/d/iLDZFBo

They also make flare wrenches. A wrench might give you more leverage than the crows foot. If you got the available space to manipulate a wrench, that’s the way to go.

The 22RE is supposed to be a non interference engine. 20R and 22R are supposed to be interference type. There seems to be a great deal of debate over this issue. Browse through yotatech and see if they have clarified this issue. It would be a shame to sell it cheap and have someone replace the timing belt only to have it running correctly. If you have the V-6 engine, that’s supposed to be non interference.

I can’t comment on your setup as I’ve never worked on a Toyota power steering setup. My vehicle is older and has manual steering. Based on your pictures, the “screws” I think you’ve referring to are actually “flare fittings “ and should be removed using a flare wrench or flare crows foot socket. This will prevent the fittings from getting rounded over by trying to use a standard open end wrench. Shoot them up good with rust buster and let them sit for a day. The steering box itself is usually attached by nuts and bolts to the frame rail. Again, your setup might be slightly different. On my setup I couldn’t get a puller over the pitman arm until I loosened up the bolts holding the box in place. Take your time. If you have a Haynes manual or Chiltons manual, that will be a big help. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-7-piece-68999.html