fred heath

6 lug or foolie axle? 3 lugs attached on a ff axle should keep it roadworthy.

You might have better luck with one of the chinook owners groups on Facebook. There is one group that deals with chinook parts only. Welcome to our forum. Lots of good advice available. Fred

If that’s what the factory is calling for then it should work. Places like Autozone would probably also be able to get it for you.

My 20R had the same thing happen while on a cross country trip. A 3/8” carriage bolt either 5 1/2 or 6” long with a nylon lock nut should do the trick (short term). You can also use a section of 3/8 drill rod cut to fit with nuts on each end. It’s important to install the correct grade 8 factory bolt and nut as soon as possible. Also check the pulley on the alternator. Mine was bent slightly due to no support on the lower side. Either way, you might want to change the alternator, just to be safe.

1986 prize on “the price is right”.

Check the condition of the wiper motor wire itself that was used for power. Many times those cheap plastic wire taps will sever the copper conductor. Whenever I remove one of those, I always install a new splice. As far as “ignition hot” wire goes, look for any unused emission control plugs. Many times you’ll find power there.

You need an isolator that’s made for 12v use. A regular solenoid (starter type) is intended for short term use only. I’ve attached a link for an inexpensive isolator that I’ve used for over 6 years with no problem. Stinger SGP38 80-AMP Battery Isolator and Relay,BLACK https://a.co/d/dDBzMrl It’s common for people to grab the wire from the wiper motor to power the unit. It’s the most easily accessible “ignition on” power supply under the hood. This is a bad idea. The constant power drain by the isolator can affect the wiper operation. Early model Toyota actually lost the high speed function of the wipers due to the power draw. Try to find another ignition hot circuit to draw power from. You need to have a good understanding of 12 volt automotive circuits. There are publications out there that explain the basics. A 12V test light is a must have. The isolator comes with instructions for installation.

Is that 66” from drum face to drum face or 66” from o/s tire face to o/s tire face. The tire face measurement should be around 74”. If it’s 66” to o/s tire the axle is setup for dual wheels. If your going to single wheels the axle will be too short. Ask the seller for the o/s tire face to o/s tire face measurement. It should be 74-75” for single wheels. When I did my swap there was no driveshaft adapter to fit the spicer 44 u-joint (which is what the 14 bolt used) so I had a new driveshaft fabricated to fit. It cost around $300 in 2015. You will need to carry two spares. The only other caution is record your pinion angle BEFORE removing the foolie axle. You will need this for the new axle. Unless you’re a skilled fabricator, its best to find a shop that does this type of work. Prices will vary but expect to spend $3-4K for a turnkey setup. Cheaper if you can do most of the work yourself. I’ll try to answer your questions to the best of my memory. It’s been 8 years since I’ve done that job.

https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/8365-axle-swap-foolie-to-1-ton-full-float/#elControls_72800_menu I’ve done the swap. Read my link then I’ll try to answer any questions.

You want “0” offset. The idea is to have the weight as close to center as possible.

If you have a mig or tig you can use a 5/16 nut to remove the snapped off bolt. Just weld into place and use a wrench or socket to remove. Much easier than drilling and tapping a new thread. A 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is probably one of the best rust busters out there. Cheap to make and better than WD40, Liquid Wrench or any other commercial rust buster.

The axle weight is based on single wheels with 7.50-14-6 ply tires which were standard equipment on the special purpose chassis (cab and chassis). Modern c or d rated single wheel radials in factory 14” or even 15” should be good for around 4K pounds. The foolie axle was plenty strong. It was the extra wheel and tire that caused the breaking axle problem.

83 ranger posted a rv for sale in CA. I couldn’t copy the link but did a screen shot. The coach is junk but has complete axle, wheels and 6 lug hubs. See if they’ll take a grand for it.

Check your rear axle. Should have 6 lug nuts holding the rear wheels on. If only 5 lug nuts the axle is unsafe and needs to be upgraded.

Without hearing your audio you might want to check the area above your catalytic converter. Many times the factory heat shield will work loose from rust and drop on top of the converter. This also makes a rattling sound. It’s hard to spot because it’s contoured to the converter shape. You might have to reach up to find it. Be sure your engine is COLD before doing this.

Mileage depends on many variables. The 20R is a bullet proof engine. If we’ll maintained is good for 250K + . Not knowing the actual mileage or maintenance done, you should be good for around 13mpg. Big concern should be the rear axle. If only 5 lug nuts are holding the rear wheels on the axle is unsafe and will need to be upgraded. 6 lug is what you want to see.

I believe she’s talking about the foolie axle. The 6 lug ff Toyota axle uses a weird bolt pattern. No aftermarket wheels are available. You could have some made custom but would be mega $$$.

Cab appears to be rust free. Still has the factory hubcaps. Not worth $8K but would make a good project rig for the right price.

LC engineering has a good data base on the 22R and 22RE Interchangeable parts. Attached is a guide to help your mechanic with valve identification.

You might also post the VIN on eBay. For the amount of money you’re asking people will want to do a vehicle history check.

I was also surprised by the packed wheel bearings. Most every ff axle I’ve worked on uses the “splash” method for lubrication. You can look upon it as a learning adventure. 😮

Your wheels are standard 15” with a 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Many aftermarket wheels that fit are available. White wagon style wheels are very reasonable and come in different widths and offsets. Summit Racing has a great selection. Wagon style wheels have a large center bore, so no problem with fitment. Any 15” hubcap will also fit. I’m running 14” fronts and 15” rears. Bought two separate sets of same style ABS hubcaps off Amazon. One in 14” and one 15”. Hard to tell by looking that I have two different diameter wheels. I can’t seem to find wheels for those tires. All of the wheels that seem to fit are trailer wheels and I’m guessing that won’t work.