Lias

Thank you so much for those pictures. It really helps. I'm going to check mine and then I guess replace the valves (if they aren't these types) with the ones on the tirerack.com site: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=208 I'm assuming I would get one of these that is 2"? 600HP 80 1.27 0.453 or 602HP 80 2.00 0.453 And the 4" valve extenders labeled part #8029vs along with the stem supports. My toy currently has these extenders but one side is leaking. I'm not sure if they are original or the previous owner put them on. They have that attachement to hold the extender down which I hope to reuse with new extenders.

I still don't know what to get These? http://yourtireshopsupply.com/category/796_830/wheel-size-1920 Is this similar to a bolt in metal valve stem? http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/info_page/accessories_hd_valve_stem_ext.asp I'm not sure what my wheel size is if my tire is 185R14LT and based on all the info I've read am I not supposed to mix rubber with metal stem extensions?

Would you mind sharing which 4" extensions you purchased? Thank you.

Hi, I have replaced my old tires with Hankook RA08 tires. I had the original(?) metal braided extenders for all four rear tires but two of them were leaking so were not put back on when the new tires were installed. I now notice that one of the rear inside dualies is leaking and I think it's the extender. But, it could be the tire since this has happened before on this tire. So, I am first going to go back to Discount Tire and have them recheck the tire. It's the only one not holding air and they will need to replace it if there's a problem with the tire (I purchased the extended warranty and got all 6 tires plus warranty for about $850). Which leads to the reason for my post. I have been doing a lot of googling and have read that the braided extenders and extension that are attached to the valve stem can be prone to leak. Then I read that some folks had them for years and they worked fine if installed correctly. http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27385710/srt/pa/pging/1/page/2.cfm On another forum there was discussion of Borg and Tire Man valve stem extenders that they really liked and I've read that on another forum as well - about the Tire Man https://forums.goodsamclub.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24520246/print/true.cfm http://yourtireshopsupply.com/product/274/dl1e-brass-dually-valve-dl1e http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/~tire-man/kit1.html Also these duallyvalves were recommended: duallyvalve.com 800 300 2674 http://www.alcoa.com/alcoawheels/north_america/en/info_page/accessories_hd_valve_stems.asp and more conversation here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/the-valve-stem-extenders-208252.html All I know is that I have 185R14LT tires and that my extenders are at their end of life (if they're original than that's about 20 years?) If I go with valve stem extenders what size and type? Chrome? 7"? If I get braided extenders again where do I get these? Some have referred to getting them at NAPA? http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Tire-Valve-Stem-Extensions/_/R-NTH90329_0344222260 What are folks here using to fill their inner dually at regular gas stations? I don't want to have to visit a truck stop or be home to use my compressor and dual sided chuck. Thanks for any suggestions / advice in advance.

This is waaaay late but figured I'd respond re: resolution. Ended up NOT dealing with the tow truck company - they didn't know what they were doing re: RVs - and contacted my insurance company, Geico, and Good Sams since they were my emergency service and they sent the tow company to me. I took it to a RV shop here in Tucson called Arizona Roadrunner and they inspected the damage and conveyed the repair cost to Geico inspector who approved repairs. I informed Good Sams that I was going to have to pay the deductible of $500 and Good Sams insurance sent me a check for $500 to cover my costs. It did take about a month for everything to be completed, inspections, approvals, etc. But when I got back my RV she was good as new. Thank you to everyone, especially Linda, for the sound advice about dealing with the insurance companies instead. It really worked and I will say that Geico and Good Sams totally came through in the end. ***ALWAYS TAKE GOOD PICTURES OF DAMAGE** I think that also made a difference, I had photos of thedamage with the RV on the tow truck.

Yes, I meant those valve things Wish I was handier re: tires but there's no way I'm going to be able to change mine so will be at the mercy of some shop here in tucson. I took my previous RV (83 lazy daze) to Jack Furriers and they seemed ok until I found out the following week they had installed one of the tires with the valve reversed so I couldn't reach it - DOH! Wish there was a list of reputable tire shops for RVs.

I purchased my 93 Warrior last year for $14,000 with 38k in tip top shape, no oven but microwave and generator (no heat strip) - minimally camped in by the original owner. In Arizona they had initially asked $14.9 but I was able to bring it down because it needed the engine recall done which Toyota did at no cost. the tires have been fine, went to San Diego and got about 14 mpg carrying three people and supplies. Forgot to mention it came with an additional tank which is super nice for long trips. I am VERY happy with my purchase even though it was at the high end. I think considering what is out there and the cost of gas, it was nice not having to do anything to get it road ready. I am going to be getting new tires but figure that's a maintenance cost - the tires could probably go further but I want to be sure.

I was just going to ask where do you get the tires installed once delivered? I have a 93 Warrior with the tire extenders and from what I've read it would seem difficult to find a reliable tire installer. Is this a correct impression? I've not replaced mine yet but would like to soon. If folks have had good experience with Walmart /Sams Club that would make things so much easier.

I would like to recommend Biozyme from http://www.cleaners-r-us.com/. I was having serious issues with one of my cats who was being ridiculously territorial and peeing on my sofa everytime another of my cats walked on it. Usually I would catch her after the fact. As mentioned, cat pee is awful strong and hard to get rid of. I tried so many things it was driving me nuts. Finally, someone on a pet forum recommended this product and while a bit pricey, it is so worth it. It has been the only thing that neutralized the smell and left a nice odor in its place. I don't sell it, just a very satisfied customer

Hi there Andrew, Yes, the tow guy hooked one chain to that part only, didn't bother hooking another to the other one and pulled it out of my driveway like a maniac. Honestly, if I hadn't been there the whole time telling them "whoa, you're going to hit (fill in blank) " they would've done more damage. The mounting points you mention, I'm taking it to an RV shop, because I seriously don't want to risk the auto shop messing it up further. The tow driver spoke to someone at the shop who said they were going to heat and weld it to get it back to where it was. Nope, I would really regret it, so I may have to pay out of pocket to fix their mess which sucks but at least I'll get it done right. Ugh, I want to go camping! Thanks for the replies.

Is that what that "triangle" is called, a skid plate? It definitely did skid on the asphalt when they pulled the rv onto the truck bed. I am going to take it to a local RV shop here that I've used before and trust. I really don't trust the towing company after the damage they caused. Thanks all for the replies, they've definitely helped - I was lying awake last night wondering what to do, I feel loads more confident now

Thank you for the reply Linda and for the advice of not using a shop I'm not comfortable with. I will call Winnebago tomorrow to find out what they recommend and call my insurance company after that. I'll post what happens. Lisa

Hi there, I needed to have a tow and called Good Sams Emergency Roadside service. They were great, the tow company not so good. When they pulled my Winnebago Warrior out of the driveway using the tow hook (?) on the rear of the frame they bent it which caused the pipe to the black tank to disconnect. See picture. The tow company is part of a auto repair shop which stated they will fix the bent part. I did inform Good Sams about the tow company as well as Geico who handles my RV insurance. They both said to let the tow company fix it and if there were any problems to contact them for the next step. My question, should I allow the tow co. to heat the metal in order to bend it back in place or should it be bent without heat? I guess I'm concerned about the integrity of the metal being bent again, I'm afraid it will break off? Or maybe this isn't a concern? Thanks for any advice. Lisa

Thanks for the specifics, I appreciate the time you all have taken to respond to my issue!

No offense taken, I also have the Sunset books on DIY plumbing with helpful diagrams and such. I just wasn't sure if there was some specific plumbing issue I need to be aware of. I hope I won't have to pull the pan. I will be trying out everyone's recommendations before it comes to that.

Thank you for the name of the tool. I've worked on my bathroom sink but there was loads of room compared to this. I will check at ACE or HomeDepot for this tool. And thanks for offering to let me call you if this becomes problematic, I do appreciate it.

I'm going to take a picture of what I am looking at. i really don't want to undo the whole bottom shower pan to tighten the ptrap to the drain and I'm not sure if that is what the two previous posters are referring to. Thanks for responding, i'll post photos in a bit. Pictures of what I'm looking at (I used lots of putty to help pinpoint where the thing was leaking - at the metal portion that screws onto the bottom of the shower drain):

Bump, does anyone know if the drain/strainer can be removed from the pan without taking the whole pan out? I've looked at other photos of pans (in a dolphin) but I can't tell if this is okay and I don't want to break the shower and end up in worse shape. And I'd like to do this myself if possible. I'll post a picture to give you an idea of what I am looking at.

I had something similar happen to me just the other day. I hadn't driven my RV for a while and when I went to test all the systems i found that my panel wasn't lighting up. So I connected to the electric and the panel lit up but when I tried to run the water pump I found that it seemed to be running but that no water was coming out of any of the faucets. I left it connected to electric for about 2 hours and when I disconnected it seemed to have recharged the battery since the panel lit up and again the water pump started working but still no water. Then I tried my generator and it wanted to start but there wasn't enough juice in my house battery. Well, couldn't figure this out myself so I took it to an RV mechanic who trouble-shot it and narrowed it down to a bad isolator and fried or shorted battery, it read reverse when he attached it to a battery tester/meter. It was a new battery too and he said that sometimes these things happen. He also checked the isolator and we ran the engine and it wasn't feeding any charge to the battery so it was pronounced deceased. Once I had a new battery in and isolator he checked it again and it was recharging my battery. We then ran the water pump and it fed water to the faucets. The generator also started. So you may have a bad battery and isolator. Hope that helps.

Hi there, I was all ready for my upcoming trip this Sunday to San Diego when I saw that the black p-trap pipe that connects to the metal shower pan drain filter in my 94 Warrior came loose. Fortunately it doesn't look like it's ever been used so no water damage underneath. But the little bitty area under the pan is very tight and it's hard to reattach the pipe to the drain. The black pipe ptrap has got this metal fastener to connect to the drain filter but when I tighten it it's not very secure and it leaks. I thought I could just unscrew the drain fixture from the pan but it just keeps going around in circles and I can't tell how it is attached to the pan. I took a look at the 321RB parts list Toyota Wini mini 94 321rb and figured one of these items is the drain (strainer?) that I can't seem to remove: M02630-03-U28 EA SHOWER PAN W/NUT, STRAINER & WASHER 066436-01-000 EA NUT-SLIP, TAILPIECE - 1.5" 066440-01-000 EA STRAINER-SHOWER, W/RUBBER WASHER 069735-01-000 EA WASHER-STRAINER TO TAILPIECE PLASTIC, 1.5" How do I take it off and put the whole thing together again? I really don't want to remove the shower pan, mainly because I don't have enough time or experience with this type of repair. Plumbing is like my achilles heel, it takes me forever to tighten pipes correctly so they don't leak. Is there anywhere online that has pictures or a video? Thanks for any and all suggestions.

Thanks for the info. I did end up choosing Geico since I have my truck and cavalier and house already insured with their company. It was an additional $134 for six months and i have full glass coverage so that if any of the windows are broken they will replace. What you did with getting comps was a great idea. I will do that now so they can have something to compare with and do the same if anything else comes up later (knock on wood it doesn't). I also have emergency road service with Good Sam which I can recommend. I've already had two tows (previous rv) and they were great although the tow company seemed to misjudge the type of truck needed for the tow. I turned down the Geico road service which would've been less but doesn't cover as much as Good Sam.

Haven't heard back from Geico yet but hopefully tomorrow I'll get some news if they'll let me get comprehensive. I did get a 12 mth quote from Progressive for $284 including 25k/50k for uninsured/underinsured/bodily injury & 10k for property damage. Comprehensive and collision was with a $500 deductible. I declined roadside assistance since I pay for Good Sam emergency road service which has been great for me so far, had two tows just this year. Still under 50 so can't use AARP. Will let you know what comes back from Geico, I'd think they'd give me a good rate considering I have two cars and my house covered by their company.

Hi there, I just purchased my first Toy - a 1994 Winnebago Micro-Warrior in pristine condition. I also paid a premium for this at $14,000. I know that NADA values come no where near the prices these RVs are currently getting. I am looking for RV insurance and was hoping someone on the boards would be able to point me in the direction of a company that would be able to cover my costs if something catastrophic happened to the RV. I just sent Geico pictures of the exterior and interior of the RV because they don't automatically set you up for comprehensive due to the age of the vehicle. I'm also looking into Progressive but they seem to insure without any checking into the vehicles condition although they will charge me more but I think they also will just give you the NADA value if something happens. On the yahoo group someone mentioned they just get liability but I don't want to do that considering what I would have to pay to get another vehicle in similar condition. On ebay, an 1990 Odyssey, refurbished just went for $17,000. I definitely think I paid a fair price on this vehicle but now I'm afraid to drive it. Thanks in advance for any advice.