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Vanman

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by Vanman

  1. Yes it is but I've been a user of compressed air for many years, mostly for air powered tools. It's been my experience that good, reliable air compressors don't come cheap. I broke my rule of not getting cheapies a few years ago and am now having problems with the current home unit. , but have not regretted my VAir. While I was searching on line when we first got the RV I read a lot of reviews and saw a trend in most of them. People who got theirs years ago were happy but a whole lot of the newly purchased ones had horrible experiences. Quality seems to be disappering lately in many areas of consumer goods. I got fuse holders from Radio Shack that were so loose if turned upside down with the fuse in it the fuse would fall out!!! not a good connection. Actually it cost more than the home unit I'm using now which won't put 90# air in the air bags and is slow to get to full pressure in the RV tires but the V Air goes right up there fast so I'm happy with it. How much do the good compressors that are built in cost, I looked at that but I went with the portable and now don't remember pricing, they may be cheaper.
  2. I got this : http://www.4wheelparts.com/Air-Compressors-Air-Tanks-Air-Accessories/400PRV-Automatic-Portable-Air-Compressor-Kit.aspx?t_c=89&t_s=566&t_pt=100437&t_pn=V%2fA40047, it's been great and these people are good to deal with.
  3. "I stopped down at the RV place to ask the same question, and they said I should be able to find what I need at the hardware store." Yeah "hardware" stores vary, Loews no, Western Marine yes and they also have nice heavy duty heatshrink tubing with an adhesive inside. Way tough . Also any electric jobber will have a hugh assortment of insulated crimp-on lugs, the uninsulated are meant to be soldered. If you chose to solder be sure to use the heatshrink to provide stress relief as well as insulation.
  4. There is a relay on the older converters that switches the RV 12V feed from the coach battery to the converters output. When no 120 VAC is going to the converter the relay puts the coach battery to the RV's 12V system. When you "plug in" and supply 120 VAC to the converter the relay puts the converters output to the RV's 12 V system and switches the coach battery to a small charger mounted inside the converter. It could be that relay or a bad connection between the converter relay and the coach battery. On the older RV's like yours the relay is usually black, on my '91 it's blue.
  5. There is a relay on the older converters that switches the RV 12V feed from the coach battery to the converters output. When no 120 VAC is going to the converter the relay puts the coach battery to the RV's 12V system. When you "plug in" and supply 120 VAC to the converter the relay puts the converters output to the RV's 12 V and switches the coach battery to a small charger mounted inside the converter. It could be that relay or a bad connection between the converter relay and the coach battery. On the older RV's like yours the relay is usually black, on my '91 it's blue.
  6. All different ways for things to go wrong. Was reading the Subaru forms yesterday and a popular mod is to add a reinforcing bracket to the master cyclinder. The firewall is flexable and with the reinforcement the brake pedal feel is much improved.
  7. Want a 5 speed for 22RE ?? Only drawback, it's PLASTIC. http://3dprint.com/50265/3d-printed-toyota-transmission/, when they can print case hardened, sign me up
  8. I just use the 120 VAC chargers that come with the device and a small plug in inveter (35 W ). If you want USB wait for the USB 3, as I understand it it's compatible with both USB 1 and 2.
  9. the left side has generally weaker lights than the right. If that true for only the rears I would take a good look at where the maker spliced the rear lights wiring onto the Toyota wiring harness. Ours wasn't too good.
  10. Juat put new tires on Mary's car. Told them to leave newest tire ( rt front) for spare, date code was 0710. As I understand it thats 7 week of 2010 they used the left front which says 5309. What week is 53 ???
  11. I found a nice 1/2" drive 6 point broached 23mm socket at Autozone. Add a 6" 1/2" drive extension and from Lowes at half price sale a 1/2" drive clicker torque wrench. Nice thing about it is it's longer than the other 1/2" ones I've seen, lots of leverage. Yeah the original lugnuts were all barfed up but have been all replaced.
  12. How much did #1 cost?? I've been considering this as I live in a steep hilly area.
  13. Before spending time on switch you might want to check the resistor assy and motor to make sure they are OK. The way most DC multi speed fans work is on the highest speed setting the motor gets full voltage. For the lower speeds taps on a resistor are inserted in series with the motor. If you know how the switch was wired you can simulate the switch operation with a jumper ( a short piece of wire with an alligator clip on each end). Back in the good old days you could just go to the nearest Radio Shack for both the materials and advice. I've had mixed results trying to get old style components from the internet nowadays, took many tries to get replacement neon bulbs for my "IDIOT BOX" and ended up having to buy a bag of 20.
  14. The range of condition I have seen in these RV's is huge. Some are in awesome condition some I wouldn't take along with lots of $$ yet they move and are being lived in full time. I know how much I've spent on mine, it would be nice to think I could get some of it back if I had to sell.
  15. Are you sure they are rated for 12 volts?? find out and if not you could add an IC type of resistor to drop off some of the voltage.
  16. I bought a locking gas cap, says "MotoRad" on the key, a few years ago and it just broke. Am going to get a locking "Stant" cap # is 10595, looks same as "Gates" caps as they sell 'em to Gates. Anyone have any experience with either of these???
  17. The ones called "Bulge Seat Acorn" look stronger to me and the bigger tapered section would be better with those wheel simulators I got. The Dorman web page for that part # 611186 shows only 13/16" cannot get that type in 23 mm ???
  18. It's called "Hystersis", see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis . I just looked at the one in my house and the screw increases/ decreases friction on the unattached end of the U shaped body. Nice to know it's adjustable. There was so much dust and dirt on the thing I gave it a good cleaning with a can of Dust Off. Will see if that changes anything
  19. Amazon has the Camco breakers but the Images were swapped on the 30 amp straight (plastic) and 30 amp 90 degree (metal case). I wanted one of each so it worked out OK. Don't know if they have fixed this, last time I looked they had the right part # but the wrong image, so be sure to check Camco's web page to get the one you want. I think 50 amps way too much for anything near wire sizes that come with these RV's.
  20. All exhaust shims replaced, at almost 90K there was some clearance left on the shims, but not much, (in's ok), starter, gas filter, all braking system parts except for drums, master cyl, metal lines. Also hoses, belts, shackle bushings, shocks, steering damper, misc front and sway bar bushings, thermostat housing and thermostat, converter, LED lites, 7500K model Maxx Air fan, roof fittings and vents, tires and new stems, wheel simulators, power steering hi pressure hose, after much body repairs striping removed and new paint job, mirrors, much of the RV added electrics re-done, don't even want to guess how many hours and trips involved, but from the outside it looks new to someone who doesn't know RV's. My neighbors think its a new one. One went so far as to remark that they were glad to be rid of "that old eyesore and isn't the new one much nicer". Off the top of my head that's all I remember but there was a lot more, I would have to look up. But the last time I did that I was amazed at what I'd spent. After all this I do not want to be broken down somewhere. Will try to find someplace to just replace the belt and be done with it...
  21. 91 Dolphin 400 94 Aerostar 08 Subaru H6 Outback I think that on those years the only motor available was the 3L V-6, might be wrong on that, sorry. When we took it to the dealer I told them to do a complete inspection on anything that might fail down the road and call me if it wasn't already on the (long) list. They found a lot that was not on the list, and we had it all done over 6K $ worth.
  22. When we took ours to the Dealer for mucho work they said the belt "looked good" at 86K miles in 2011. Now have 93 K on her, is it possible for the original belt to go that far??? Am I living on borrowed time here. Only car I do not have maint records for.
  23. If they aren't pointed at the center of the triangular hole in the wheel hard to see how you could get an air chuck/gauge in there I don't know what SF Toyota did, but the tire shop recommended on this board who replaced the damaged one assembled it dry. I do not see how any no oyx grease would hurt unless Toyota is using O rings made of non standard materials, but is important for everything to be really clean on assembly. If you can dismount the old tires yourself I would say go for it and clean the rims up on the inside where the tire bead goes for sure also. I gave up on the appearance of the wheels and got those chrome looking covers they call wheel simulators, look great now. But I did have to do substantial increase in holes of rear simulators with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel, the fronts are an exact fit.
  24. If you run the Refrigerator off the propane tank might that drop your load down to what the stock system can handle??/
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