Vanman

You should get a regulator like: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40055-Brass-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B003BZD08U because RV's are plumbed for low water pressure, some city water hook-ups will be high enough to damage your plumbing. I also got one of these, http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22505-Degree-Hose-Elbow/dp/B003BZD03K, so nobody will be tripping over the hose at the campgrounds. Add a filter , http://www.amazon.ca/Camco-40645-X-TastePURE-Marine-Filter/dp/B000BUU5V8, if you want . I have gotten a bunch of Camco parts and so far all have been great quality. I buy my stuff at Camping World, which will have a wide selection to choose from, don't care too much for Amazon but their links pop up at the top of the search.

When looking at replacing the starter I noticed that my AC belt is just s slight bit too loose. Belt looks good but adjuster is bottomed, cannot thighten it any more. My plan is to take it off and get the next smaller size, run the adjuster all the way in to get it on and it should fit???? The adjuster has at least an inch travel. Did not get the #'s off it. Since I have the V6 probably not the same belt, but could be.

Are you using a pressure regulator to reduce the incomimg water pressure? I see some high levels at some places, at home it's like 70-80 PSI !!!

No, it was off their web page, see: To: EPAFuelsPrograms@epa.gov Cc: vanman Subject: Ethanol in gas I would be happiest if you eliminated the ethanol in the gasoline in California. Ethanol in not needed nor wanted as a fuel. I will get better mileage without it and pay less for my food and more California dairy farmers will survive, time for a change. As I remember years ago CARB and the oil refiners came up with a gas that did nor even require an oxygenate and applied to you for an exemption, which was denied. Please look at this again at this for us, we do not need ethanol for fuel. Yours truly PS tried to send this and didn't appear to go through, trying again was sent by me at: Sat Nov 16, 2013 1:34:54 PM US/Pacific// vanman

I just got this e-mail : I am out of the office until 01/01/2017. Effective 1/15/2012 this email address will no longer be used. Please visit our support page: http://www.epa.gov/otaq/fuels/fuelssupport.htm Note: This is an automated response to your message "Ethanol in fuel" sent on 11/16/2013 4:34:54 PM. This is the only notification you will receive while this person is away. in response to an e-mail I sent the this Govmnt about adding more bad things into our gasoline. So long ago I had forgotten all about it.

I forgot to mention, on ours there are 2 black wires on the battery, one goes to the motor and the other to a bolt on the pass side engine bay. Since it's a ground if the insulation is bad and the wire is ok just tape it.

I think the loud click you hear is from the starter. The starter solonid engages the bendix clutch and then the starter motor contacts which suplies electricity to the starter motor. Next time it does this make sure it's in park and the hand brake applied and crawl under the pass side of the motor find the starter, bring a long wrench or a short stick. The idea is to have someone turn the key to the start position and hold it there if it doesn't start. You will be able to tell for shure now that the starter is making the click, next hit the starter with the tool and I bet it cranks rite up. Ours did this to us for the first time on a hot day after pulling over to the side of the road. I had the starter replaced with a "re-manufactured" 2 1/2 years ago along with a lot of other work, last time down the freeway and back in hot weather after a gas stop it just did the same thing. I had to crawl under it and wack the starter with a 12" cresent wrench while Mary turned the key, started right up and has started up rite away since. I do have a replacement starter now but haven't gotten it installed yet. Seems there is a heat related issue with the Toyota starters when they start to go away, I haven't seen that with the other starters I've replaced, they begin to just randomly start to fail, even on cold start-up.

jjrbus" Over the last few years I have become spoiled and seldom do much myself. Except for the Toy, but that is more of a hobby. HTH Jim I used to always do my own work, but am realizing that this is mainly past for me now. Aside from the electrical work this RV has been mostly re-done by others, not up to my standards one of the main reasons I did it myself, but it is what it is. John

Well, I jacked the rt side as high as I can with the equipment I have and no luck. On this truck the only way to get the starter in/out is from underneath, removing the tire does make it easier to see where things are but that's all. I'm sore as heck this morning, too old for this anymore. So will have to take it to a shop that can lift the front end enough. On the bright side the extension tool I made for the Toyota screw type jack works great, as does the jack. 3/8 rod stock is harder to thread than I remember, old age again ?, but it's so much nicer than if I had used running thread.

Just got it, looks brand new and weighs 9-10 lbs. The parts guy has a 4-runner and had his starter replaced by the shop mechanics. They raised the front and removed the tire and had a bad time getting it out, as he has power steering and that precludes bringing it up the front to remove it. They were fustrated and took a break and another parts guy finagled it out for them. Just for grins I went to the service counter and explained what I wanted to get done and asked for a price quote. After much keyboard work he said 85.00 $ !!! I asked it he had put in that I had power steering and he said yes and thats a flat price. HUMMMMM

Thanks for all the replies. I had this remanufactured starter replaced by a RV place many miles away 2 1/2 years and 6533 miles ago " limited lifetime warranty" doesn't include labor and it starts every time now. Over the phone the owner was not enthusiastic but will charge me all labor whether replaced or not. After talking with the local parts suppliers and ones on the internet I ordered one from the local Toyota dealer hoping for better luck this time. Funny thing was the others had 3 sizes 1.0KW , 1.2KW and 1.4KW. dealer parts says for my vin # only 2, 1.4KW and 1.6KW , which he recommended as they are the same price. I live on a steep hill at the top and must work on the RV while parked on the street. I'll start with removing the front wheel and the plastic cover to take a good look comparing the replacement and then decide what to do. BTW, one of the videos from an owner mentioned to install the bottom bolt first to hold the starter in position as the top bolt is a real bear to get in otherwise.

After searching around it seems the way to remove and replace the starter on the V-6 is to take off the pass side tire and raise the motor a bit by slight jacking the motor a bit, not from underneath as I was looking at initally. I wasn't able to find a video or instructions for our type pick-up, most were about 4 Runners or four wheel drives. Is this the way?? Has anybody here done it like this ? or from underneath??? TIA

My first shock about automatic transmissions was when I purchased the FSM for my 1974 Datsun B-210. Book was almost 2" thick and exactly half of that was chapter 6, the auto trans chapter !!! 8 / 9 speeds will probably be it for automatics as such. The new Subaru CVT gets better mileage and better acceleration than the 5 speed manual.

Sorry I didn't explain it properly. When I said the lights dim I meant small lites on the dashboard dim somewhat. I next put a meter on the battery and had Mary try to start it and the voltage on the connectors only went down .2 Volt, which I assumed was the draw from the starter relay and the starter solenoid, if I was getting any current to the starter the voltage drop would be much more. I wasn't going to try turning on the headlites as I had a meter to troubleshoot with and didn't want to draw the battery any more that I had to. Just for grins I also put my battery starter/lamp/air compressor on the connectors, which made no difference. I just looked at it today and I don't think it was changed, but hard to tell for sure. Am now going to search the posts on how to replace starter. Looks like it'll have to be raised about a foot or more just to get at it, probably better with a lift, which I no longer have access to.

The way I understood what that post is saying is as long as the bushing is OK the rings will be OK. When the bushing/shaft are loose thats when the rings start to wear on the groves. Please tell me if this is not correct?????

I have a MaxAir Model 7500K and love it, but haven't tested the rain sensor. But I seem to remember it's not supposed to close all the way if the fan is on or set to operate off the temperature sensor.

#*!*###!!!! In order to not have the starter problem I paid to replace the starter, along with the valve adj,and other work on 11/02/2012 @ 87,909 miles. Just went for a ride today and at the gas station almost home when you try to crank it the lites dim but no motor turnover and small voltage drop at battery. Mine is low to the ground and it was hard to get it going by banging on the starter while Mary turned the switch. Current mileage is 93,600 miles, so for me NO MORE rebuilt ( remanufactured) parts. If I can get it out myself I will fix it myself.

Second that, ours works super and uses very little propane. I do turn it off to gas up. Now about that more efficient heater. .

we'er getting more and more TV from internet, but it's not possible to get TV range from wireless,, yet.

That sounds like it could be a bad connection on the motor ground cable ??

...SORRY... SEE EDIT Info plate on my '91 Dolphin with Onan gen says 37# front 45# rear. Tires really flatten out too much at that. After much experimation I settled on 47# fronts. 57# rears. And 83 left / 79 right # for freeway on bags, around town 65# left, 60# right. Both the gen and white water tank are on the LEFT side. All 7 tires are RA08's.

I got this, http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/wide-angle-lens-11-x-14/69257 , seems to work better than it shows on the web page, I installed it off center on rear window. Also handy for hiway driving as it allows more optimal adjustment of my side mirrors so I have no blind spots. The best is a quality wide angle rear view camera set-up but ones I like are expensive.

Weight is important on these RV's so we try to travel light and buy stuff, esp food as we go along or once we stop for the nite. We do carry extra gas, some parts (set of belts), good toolkit. LED flashlites and one of these, http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Quad-LED-Lantern/dp/B00E09BERU , Much cheaper at COSTCO.

Ours works super, once it gets cold, which takes a long while. I just throw some ice trays from our home reefer in there several hours before we go to pre-chill it.

Thanks for the suggestions. It seems there are 4 different caulks, dull white, off white, stiff semiclear and softer more clear!! All the green mold /algae comes off if you try hard enough. Underneath the rear mounted spare I will begin experimenting with the Rustoleum oil paint, I have several to play with. If that works I have found a can of this paint at the local hardware store that almost exactly matches the coach color. I have a set of small artist brushes that are ideal for this. We'll see. BTW the metal railing for my home outside stairs uses the Rustoleum Aluminum oil paint and it's great. Goes on easy, looks super, and lasts for many years.