Derek up North

I posted the remark about the tach more as a reminder not to forget to look in to the possibility. I didn't know the age of your 'home and I certainly don't know all the ins and outs of the various years to say if it'll be a 'Plug & Play'. I have read that in later years there was a change from a mechanical drive speedo to an electric/electronic one. But this was well after '83. I looked up 1983, Toyota, Pickup, Speedo on www.car-part.com and there do appear to be tachs available for the '83. Whether the wiring harness on all of them included the wire for a tach, I don't know. If you're lucky, Toyota made a 'one size fits all' harness to simplify their inventory. If you have a wiring diagram, you could try and identify the wire color code for the tach and see if you can find it among the wires going to your plug(s). If you do pick up a 'tach panel', you should also get the correct sender for the oil pressure (or buy a new one).

You might as well look for one with a tach!

You'd better confirm what year and engine you've got. I'm new to these Toyotas, but I understand there's some switch that inhibit's the O/D above a certain altitude. (3500'?).

Just read your Blog about your stove. You mentioned that Liquid Nails was a BAD choice. Was that because it was an old tube? What was it you used instead?

A few preliminary questions:- - Do you have a wiring diagram? - Do you own a multimeter? - Have you ever worked with either of the above before? - Where are you in Switzerland? I lived there 50 years ago.

Have you tried:- http://car-part.com/index.htm

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory_Fuel-Pumps-and-Tanks_-49997361_-49997327_10151_10051_-1___

So the fuel pump is in the tank? If you've got the part number, you could start by Googling it. And searching the P/N in the various Toyota Forums. And of course there's always EvilBay. Sometimes a pump installed out of the tank is capable of pulling fuel through the intank, dead pump. I've no idea if that's the case here. Just throwing ideas on the table. It would be a shame to replace a perfectly good gas tank just because the fuel pump isn't working.

Could you share which particular tire you got and from where at that price?

Agreed that frequencies changed, but they're still UHF frequencies, so if the antenna can pull in UHF signals, it'll work. VHF Lo is pretty quiet now, AFAIK. Not sure how a ChannelMaster HD4228 would work on top of a Toyota, but I've got one waiting to go on my tower when the weather clears up.

Sorry, but I'm not familiar with the '79 setup, but IF the pump isn't actually in the tank you can go to Autozone/Advance/NAPA and get a generic in-line replacement pump for $40-$50. They usually are available in 2 different pressure ranges. Hopefully someone here will be able to tell you what the correct pressure is for your '79.

No. It was an antenna before, it's still an antenna. What's changed is the signal and what your TV tuner can/can't do with it. I won't comment on the efficiency of the rv antennas, as I have no experience with them. However, being small and not mounted very high, I have my doubts compared to a large UHF (where most digital TV is broadcast) antenna atop a 30' tower! Derek '91 SeaBreeze

That's a 'Huntsman'. I'm new to the Toyota & Rv world, but I think it's just a pretty generic 'stick built' motorhome. You've got the fridge right next to the door, probably the bathroom right behind the driver's seat and a rear dinette. Stove is probably next to the fridge and the sink behind the bathroom (thought they might be swapped). To me, first thing to look for is water leaks (stains) and wood rot in the walls. Check for soft spots on the walls, floor and ceiling. After that, I guess I'd check that all the systems work. And of course you'll want to check if it has a 1-ton rear axle fitted. Good luck.

http://cabbieland.byethost9.com/Sea-Breeze-Rear-Box.html

Thanks. That could be useful info for me some day. Just an idea, and I don't have the two panels in front of me, but would it be possible to cut the needed lights from the old panel and graft them on to the new one?

Just read it top to bottom. Well, bottom to top, actually. Enjoyed it very much. Suggestions? Only one. Write more!

Thanks for those high resolution pictures. Any info on the nitty-gritty details would be appreciated. Is this typical construction for a 'stick built MH? How did you reattach the siding to the structure? Construction adhesive? Which one? Is that blown in 'Foam in a can'? My experience (in a sailboat) is that it absorbs water like crazy once a leak develops and then holds it there. Not good! Excuse my questions, but I'm currently looking for a good deal on a 'home and am trying to learn what I might face if I buy something with water damage.

Don't shoot the messenger, but here's another opinion:- http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/9500048-08.pdf

http://www.bmracing.com/SPECIALS/Transmission-temperature-gauge-kit http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/9500048-08.pdf

I don't see there being much difference between installing the temperature gauge sensor in the pan or the line to the cooler. There will be minimal difference between the two, probably undetactable with the type of gauge you're likely to buy anyway. To me, the important thing will be the ability to detect a difference/increase in temperature, rather than an absolute value. For a cooler, you could consider a Hayden #404:- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-404/ For a gauge, B&M 80212:- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80212?part=BMM-80212 If you really wanted to get fancy, you could add a manifold, some temperature sensors and relays to inhibit the O/D and switch on an electric fan as the ATF temperature rises, but not 'K.I.S.S.! Or perhaps just 1 sensor and a big red warning light on the dash!

I've read good things about these on Toyota motorhomes:- Yokohama Y356 Hankook RA08 You can get more info about them (and others) here:- http://www.roadhaus.com/tires.html http://www.busdepot....tails/tires.jsp Any that are plain old passenger tires (P Metric).

I'd be less concerned about finding brake shoes (since they can be relined) as I would be about the drums, which might well be specific to the '1-ton' 6 bolt axle. You mght as well ask about drum availability while you're at it and perhaps stockpile a pair.