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seabreezer

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Everything posted by seabreezer

  1. Hey Greg, That's a really fantastic photograph! Thanks for sharing. Eddy the breezer
  2. Right On 5 Toyota!! Congrats on the new toy! Sounds Nice! Happy Trails 2U Eddy the breezer
  3. Hey 5Toyota, Just saw your post. I've been preoccupied the last few days, dealing with my geo tracker. Any how, I'm not a furnace ace and I have the Atwood hydro flame. I don't know if the suburban furnace is similar or not. You said you had a pilot light, but furnace would not light. I believe your fan has to kick in before the heater will ignite. Sounds like you need to locate the owners manual and go through the troubleshooting procedure. Good luck on the repair. I got mine working, as I said in a previous post. My problem was, it was working intermittently, so I took Maineah's advice and bought a new Dinosaur Board. Now my furnace is working GREAT! And it is also been upgraded into the 21ST century. I'm very impressed with the Dinosaur board and their excellent customer service. Y'all stay warm, Eddy the breezer
  4. seabreezer

    seabreezer

    RV and travel pictures
  5. seabreezer

    seabreezer.jpg

    From the album: seabreezer

    © Toyotamotorhome.org

  6. Thanks Maineah, I'll have to go web surfing and locate one of those screens. I assume it goes behind the chrome exhaust plate. To bad I recaulked it already, when I put it back together yesterday. Oh well, better to pull it soon while the caulk is still fresh, then have to do it later when something gets in there and causes more trouble. By the way, I said hornets nest, what I meant to say was, wasps nest. It was one of those mud adobe nests that are tough to remove. Don't want to do it again. Thanks again for the suggestion! Eddy the breezer
  7. Hey All, I got the heater going today! I ended up pulling out the whole unit. I wanted to check the sail switch and its deep in the belly of the beast. The switch was fine, but I found a big hornets nest in the exhaust duct thats connected to the squirrel cage chamber. I'm glad I pulled the unit, that nest was a bad obstruction. Any how, I reinstalled the heater and realized there is a flat connector with 4 wires that connects to the side of circuit board had disconnected, I reconnected that and buttoned everything up. Turned on the furnace and it worked great. Just in time, it's dropping down below freezing tonight.Thanks again for the help.Eddy the Breezer
  8. Thank You All, Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. I'm going over and spend some time with the heater tomorrow. I will try to locate the sail switch. The RV is plugged into shore power already, so I don't think voltage is the problem. I'll let y'all know what I find out. Eddy the Breezer
  9. Greetings, I have the standard type heater in a 91 Seabreeze with the auto pilot. It has always worked great until now. Now I turn up thermostat and turn it on, fan starts,but only blows cold. There is no clicking to indicate the heater is trying to light. Anyone have any idea what I should check first. I did check battery voltage (good) and all fuses also look good. Any wisdom would be appreciated. Thank You! Eddy the breezer
  10. Got Er Done, I finally got the fridge going today. Since I posted the topic, the linkage on my selector knob also broke. I was very lucky to find the plastic connectors at a local RV shop in Show Low, AZ. near where I live. The owner told me they are no longer available, but the sales gal found me some used ones in her office,she was awesome. I had to pull the fridge and turn it upside down. talk about a tight sqeeze! I had to remove all the hardware off the drawers and doors and also fridge door and top hinge plates. I still managed to mangle a little naugahide and floor vinyl. Once I got it over it was easy to work on. Lucky for me the stat and selector switch were still fine. I guess the old plastic connectors just both gave out about same time. WD40'd the mechanisms and they seem to be moving real nice. Thanks again John for your input and thanks to all of you who keep this great website up and running and always very interesting. Eddy AKA Seabreezer
  11. Thanks John, Appreciate the input. I think we both have the same type fridge, Dometic. I tried to take cover off today, but was pressed for time. It appeared I may have to remove fridge door to get front cover off. Thats when I thought it might be easier to just pull fridge out and work from underside.I just don't know if bottom has a cover or not. Anyhow I ran out of time and had to abandon project for time being. The picture of your cover appeared narrower than mine. Mine seems to encompass entire width of fridge. Thanks again! Eddy AKA Seabreezer
  12. Hello to All Have a quick question for all you RV Guru's. The last time I shut down my reefer I tried to turn thermostat all the way off and I think the mechanism disconnected from the knob. I was wondering if I could slide out the reefer a few inches and access the termo from underneath and reconnect it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have the RV parked at an RV park so I can't get the exact model of reefer. I Know its the standard issue for a 91 National built RV. Mine is a Seabreeze ofcourse. Hope everyone is doing great and having smooth sailing. Thanks, Seabreezer
  13. Greetings bfardell. I'm reasonably sure if you turn on a hot water faucet and water comes out, your water heater tank is full. Like all fresh water plumbing, the intake line of your water heater fills the tank with cold water, when you have water pressure ofcourse. When you open the hot water faucet it comes from the outlet on the water heater. Make sure you have water flow on the hot side before you turn on the water heater. If you have water pressure on your hot faucet valves and the water heater is on and you still have no hot water. Turn off water heater immediately and call a qualified plumber Note: Give your water heater around 20 minutes to start warming up the water. Best of luck, seabreezer
  14. Greetings Dolphina, I believe the rear window is the same as my Seabreeze. It makes sense that it would be plastic for safety reasons,e.g. being rear-ended would eject the unlucky person using the restroom at the wrong moment etc. I have been jostled around a few times using the restroom in transit. Usually I slam into the closet door mirror. Hasn't broke yet. As for the leak, I would bet its the window seal. Remove screws on the inside frame and gently pry out window frame from the outside. Remove all the old butyl tape from frame and around window opening. Install new butyl tape around perimeter of frame. Carefully install window, centering it on opening. Reinstall interior ring w/screws. Done deal, As an added precaution I run a bead of non silicone caulking around exterior frame, When you buy the butyl tape at an RV supply house. they should hook you up with the proper caulking. I found out the hard way, that siliconized caulking is a no no on RV exteriors. It does not work well,is super hard to remove, and makes your RV look like oooo when it starts collecting dirt and dust like a magnet. Happy trails, seabreezer
  15. Hi Greg, Are you having fun yet? Sure looks like it. I hope you have safe and relaxing journey. I'm getting ready to head out to Durango and then on to Boulder. This should be another good test for my Seabreeze. I hope to send in a report when I get back and let you all know how it handled the Colorado Rockies. Take Care, seabreezer P.S. Thanks for great website
  16. Howdy sman, I would hope you have some steel or aluminum joists spanning your roof. When I peeled back the roof on my 91 seabreeze, I was surprised to find 1" X 2" heavy steel tubing @ about 3' on center. These things could have held up the Taj Mahal ,except for the fact they are attached to 1" thick, vertical styrofoam sandwich with 1" X1" wood top plate. I agree with Derek, try to find something substantial to attach to and stay near the walls. Add some span bracing to help hold the rig together and prevent sagging. Best of luck on your project. seabreezer
  17. Howdy Red Be sure to feel around all the windows and walls for any bubbles or soft spots. Also pull out the overhead cushions and check the deck for water damage. Its also a good idea to check the entire floor for soft spots and warpage. The front window is easy to pop out and replace the butyl tape, but the additional repair work can be a real pain. I bought a 91 Sea Breeze last winter and thought it needed a little wallpaper repair. It turned out to be a 2 month long project to replace a bunch of delaminated interior luan plywood and all the other consequential damage. Most of it caused by bogus CB antenna installation. Good luck on your purchase Seabreezer
  18. Hello, Thought I would add my two cents as another point of reference. When I drive my V6 Automatic Toyota Seabreeze at highway speed I use the overdrive and cruise control. I like to cruise at 62 MPH. On moderate inclines the cruise control will increase my speed to 65 MPH. As soon as I crest the hill, it will drop back down to 62 MPH. I'm impressed how well the cruise control will hold the correct speed on the downhill. I own newer,lighter vehicles that can't hold the speed near as well on the downhill. On steeper grades, the moment the rig starts to struggle I try to turn off cruise and overdrive and let the tranny find the right gear for the job. In my experience, if the cruise is in good working order it seems to work very well. I might add that I live in the mountains of Northern Arizona where the elevations vary from 5000 FT to over 9000 FT. A whole lot of up and down driving. Best of Luck on your repair, seabreezer
  19. Greetings to all, I own a 90 Toyota V6 Automatic 1 Ton w/91 Seabreeze coach. I have noticed the tranny dipstick is a real bear to reinsert after checking fluid level. I also noticed the fluid level seems way above full. The fluid looks and smells fresh. A little background. I bought the RV in January and immediately had oil and lube service done. The guys at Jiffy Lube said all your fluid levels are good, ( I know, never trust a lube monkey ). Any how we proceeded to take a 4000 plus mile road trip from northern Arizona to Michigan and back in the dead of winter during the arctic blast. Needless to say we did not encounter many RV's on that trip. The RV ran flawlessly the whole trip with the exception of a little slippage on the ice packed sub zero roadways (scary). The RV had 45000 miles when we bought it and now just turned over 50000. I figure its due for an oil change and was wondering if I should have them drain out a little bit of the tranny fluid or just leave it alone. Back to the original question. Should I trust the dipstick reading, and is it normal for the dipstick to be difficult to reinsert. I have owned many vehicles with automatic transmission and don't recall having this much trouble before. Sorry for the short novel. Thank You, seabreezer
  20. Hello, You should have vertical screws going into the ceiling joists on the cabinet face above the doors. I'm not sure what type of construction material was used in your particular RV, but you could try tightening those screws. If you have water damage in the ceiling, you very well may have to peel back the roof and replace damaged joists to do a proper fix. I hope you have a simple fix, I spent most of the past winter repairing water damage in my Sea Breeze. This web site helped me out a lot. I'm sure it will help you too. Good Luck, Seabreezer
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