seabreezer

Right On 5 Toyota!! Congrats on the new toy! Sounds Nice! Happy Trails 2U Eddy the breezer

Hey 5Toyota, Just saw your post. I've been preoccupied the last few days, dealing with my geo tracker. Any how, I'm not a furnace ace and I have the Atwood hydro flame. I don't know if the suburban furnace is similar or not. You said you had a pilot light, but furnace would not light. I believe your fan has to kick in before the heater will ignite. Sounds like you need to locate the owners manual and go through the troubleshooting procedure. Good luck on the repair. I got mine working, as I said in a previous post. My problem was, it was working intermittently, so I took Maineah's advice and bought a new Dinosaur Board. Now my furnace is working GREAT! And it is also been upgraded into the 21ST century. I'm very impressed with the Dinosaur board and their excellent customer service. Y'all stay warm, Eddy the breezer

Thanks Maineah, I'll have to go web surfing and locate one of those screens. I assume it goes behind the chrome exhaust plate. To bad I recaulked it already, when I put it back together yesterday. Oh well, better to pull it soon while the caulk is still fresh, then have to do it later when something gets in there and causes more trouble. By the way, I said hornets nest, what I meant to say was, wasps nest. It was one of those mud adobe nests that are tough to remove. Don't want to do it again. Thanks again for the suggestion! Eddy the breezer

Hey All, I got the heater going today! I ended up pulling out the whole unit. I wanted to check the sail switch and its deep in the belly of the beast. The switch was fine, but I found a big hornets nest in the exhaust duct thats connected to the squirrel cage chamber. I'm glad I pulled the unit, that nest was a bad obstruction. Any how, I reinstalled the heater and realized there is a flat connector with 4 wires that connects to the side of circuit board had disconnected, I reconnected that and buttoned everything up. Turned on the furnace and it worked great. Just in time, it's dropping down below freezing tonight.Thanks again for the help.Eddy the Breezer

Thank You All, Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. I'm going over and spend some time with the heater tomorrow. I will try to locate the sail switch. The RV is plugged into shore power already, so I don't think voltage is the problem. I'll let y'all know what I find out. Eddy the Breezer

Greetings, I have the standard type heater in a 91 Seabreeze with the auto pilot. It has always worked great until now. Now I turn up thermostat and turn it on, fan starts,but only blows cold. There is no clicking to indicate the heater is trying to light. Anyone have any idea what I should check first. I did check battery voltage (good) and all fuses also look good. Any wisdom would be appreciated. Thank You! Eddy the breezer

Got Er Done, I finally got the fridge going today. Since I posted the topic, the linkage on my selector knob also broke. I was very lucky to find the plastic connectors at a local RV shop in Show Low, AZ. near where I live. The owner told me they are no longer available, but the sales gal found me some used ones in her office,she was awesome. I had to pull the fridge and turn it upside down. talk about a tight sqeeze! I had to remove all the hardware off the drawers and doors and also fridge door and top hinge plates. I still managed to mangle a little naugahide and floor vinyl. Once I got it over it was easy to work on. Lucky for me the stat and selector switch were still fine. I guess the old plastic connectors just both gave out about same time. WD40'd the mechanisms and they seem to be moving real nice. Thanks again John for your input and thanks to all of you who keep this great website up and running and always very interesting. Eddy AKA Seabreezer

Thanks John, Appreciate the input. I think we both have the same type fridge, Dometic. I tried to take cover off today, but was pressed for time. It appeared I may have to remove fridge door to get front cover off. Thats when I thought it might be easier to just pull fridge out and work from underside.I just don't know if bottom has a cover or not. Anyhow I ran out of time and had to abandon project for time being. The picture of your cover appeared narrower than mine. Mine seems to encompass entire width of fridge. Thanks again! Eddy AKA Seabreezer

Hello to All Have a quick question for all you RV Guru's. The last time I shut down my reefer I tried to turn thermostat all the way off and I think the mechanism disconnected from the knob. I was wondering if I could slide out the reefer a few inches and access the termo from underneath and reconnect it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have the RV parked at an RV park so I can't get the exact model of reefer. I Know its the standard issue for a 91 National built RV. Mine is a Seabreeze ofcourse. Hope everyone is doing great and having smooth sailing. Thanks, Seabreezer

Greetings bfardell. I'm reasonably sure if you turn on a hot water faucet and water comes out, your water heater tank is full. Like all fresh water plumbing, the intake line of your water heater fills the tank with cold water, when you have water pressure ofcourse. When you open the hot water faucet it comes from the outlet on the water heater. Make sure you have water flow on the hot side before you turn on the water heater. If you have water pressure on your hot faucet valves and the water heater is on and you still have no hot water. Turn off water heater immediately and call a qualified plumber Note: Give your water heater around 20 minutes to start warming up the water. Best of luck, seabreezer

Greetings Dolphina, I believe the rear window is the same as my Seabreeze. It makes sense that it would be plastic for safety reasons,e.g. being rear-ended would eject the unlucky person using the restroom at the wrong moment etc. I have been jostled around a few times using the restroom in transit. Usually I slam into the closet door mirror. Hasn't broke yet. As for the leak, I would bet its the window seal. Remove screws on the inside frame and gently pry out window frame from the outside. Remove all the old butyl tape from frame and around window opening. Install new butyl tape around perimeter of frame. Carefully install window, centering it on opening. Reinstall interior ring w/screws. Done deal, As an added precaution I run a bead of non silicone caulking around exterior frame, When you buy the butyl tape at an RV supply house. they should hook you up with the proper caulking. I found out the hard way, that siliconized caulking is a no no on RV exteriors. It does not work well,is super hard to remove, and makes your RV look like oooo when it starts collecting dirt and dust like a magnet. Happy trails, seabreezer

Hi Greg, Are you having fun yet? Sure looks like it. I hope you have safe and relaxing journey. I'm getting ready to head out to Durango and then on to Boulder. This should be another good test for my Seabreeze. I hope to send in a report when I get back and let you all know how it handled the Colorado Rockies. Take Care, seabreezer P.S. Thanks for great website