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extech

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by extech

  1. looks like factory dimmer is on the ground side. turning the dimmer knob increases the resistance to ground- dimmer lights.
  2. unfortunately yes. axle comes out, then disassemble the bearing retention parts. if doing this i would have new inner axle seals ready on hand
  3. i don't see the symbol referred to. i would think g is ground, s is sender, and the other ignition.
  4. loosen the master cylinder mounting nuts enough to pull it forward a bit. if you see fluid come out the master cylinder is bad
  5. it's possible. usually that causes dragging brakes, squeeking, heat build up. your symptoms would suggest the pads are moved away from the rotor too far. warped rotors can do that, but you would feel a shudder when braking
  6. could easily be a broken spring on the rear brakes, or master cylinder going bad
  7. these guys have a dually rear end and at least 5 wheels. i bought one of them european auto recycling inc. 3600 recycle road rancho cordova ca. 95742 916 638 3876
  8. doug, you seem to be mistaken about how the toyota fan clutch works. silicon doesn't get thicker with heat. the front of the clutch has a bimetalic coil which changes passages inside to redirect the fluid to cause lock up. the temp it works at is kind of random, i think mostly due to age. new ones are really better than the ones originally installed
  9. there is no main burner. when the pilot lights it heats a thermocouple which allows the gas valve to stay open to keep the "pilot light" lit.. understanding this should help you figure it out
  10. seeing if the pilot light is lit can be a real pain. i have a dometic fridg. that uses the prism to view the pilot. i could never get my face in a place to see it. i have a cheap inspection camera that works with my phone. i turn the camera light off and hold it straight up at the viewing sight. when i push the starter button i see the spark flash on my phone. if the fire starts, pushing the button no longer shows the spark. still can't see the flame but at least i know it was lit
  11. the shoes look to be against the anchor at the top = wheel cyl is compressed. the bottom of the shoes being forward is the problem yes? can you try the old spring going from shoe to backing plate
  12. i've never seen the small spring from rear shoe to backing plate. looks to be pulling shoes forward
  13. depends on what tools you have. i would use a cut off tool to remove the weld, then slit the muffler tube to get it off the tube you want to save
  14. unless your radiator cap is bad, pressure will never get over the cap rating. not cracking radiator
  15. you could experiment with adding resistors to the circuit to get the reading you want
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