Camusus

Ah yes, the isolator. Thanks for pointing that out. As for the valves, ive adjusted those within the year and within seven thousand miles. Thanks for pointing that out as well. the noise is loud enough to hear while driving and loud enough to hear when the hood is up and im looking at the running engine. I dont have my multimeter to check the isolator yet, and or any of the circuit connections going to and from the isolator, BUT i did have a wrench and i disconnected the camper battery and the noise went away. Soooo, the noise is gione but the underlying issue is not, nor is the fact that now i dont have electricity to the camper. HAHAHA I think this means that there is an issue in the circuit between the camper battery and some thing downstream from it. When i have the chance i will check the isolator as you suggest and any circuit breakers in the circuit, and use some toilet paper to aurally isolate the noise (if i reconnect the battery to bring the noises back). Thanks again, and i hope to share what the source is once i figure it out.

Hi everybody, Recently I started my 1983 dolphin 22R and two noises have appeared. One is higher in pitch than the other. The noises occur when the key is turned to ON or when the engine is running. The source sounds like it is coming from near the Master vac or the metal instrument (i dont know what it is called) along the drivers side outboard portion of the engine compartment (closer to the firewall than the voltage regulator and engine coil). Photo attached I dont know if related, but at the same time i noticed the 15A fuse for the tail lights was broken and now occassionally the car wont start (does not turn over), though eventually it does. Replaced the fuse, tail lights work, noises persist. Battery voltage is normal. Thanks for any suggestions. camusus IMG_2228.MOV

Whoops, I posted this in the wrong section. My bad.

Hi everybody, Recently I started my 1983 dolphin 22R and two noises have appeared. One is higher in pitch than the other. The noises occur when the key is turned to ON or when the engine is running. The source sounds like it is coming from near the Master vac or the metal instrument (i dont know what it is called) along the drivers side outboard portion of the engine compartment (closer to the firewall than the voltage regulator and engine coil). Photo attached I dont know if related, but at the same time i noticed the 15A fuse for the tail lights was broken and now occassionally the car wont start (does not turn over), though eventually it does. Replaced the fuse, tail lights work, noises persist. Battery voltage is normal. Thanks for any suggestions. camusus IMG_2228.MOV

Thanks for the reply, I think I’ll put some JB Weld around the top of the reservoir and fashion a new gasket for the cap and see what happens. Unfortunately, the reservoir cap has been discontinued to my knowledge. The engine temp increases to about half way on the gauge when I drive on hilly fast terrain but quickly comes down on the downhill. Never overheated the engine.

Good day to everyone, I’m driving a 1983 Dolphin 4spd manual 22R engine around the midwest these days. I noticed coolant has splashed behind the dual coolant/washer fluid reservoir and evaporated leaving white residue on the master cylinder, master vac and assorted hoses. There was some coolant loss and I decided to refill the reservoir, clean off the residue and see if it would happen again. Yes it did. I decided not to refill the reservoir (the fluid level was still well above LOW) and the coolant spray disappeared under most driving scenarios except for long distance and hilly driving where there would be a small amount of spray but not enough to notice much of a difference in coolant level. I wiped everything down and observed that the top of the reservoir, below where the cap seals, becomes wet with coolant everytime i drive it. Do i simply need a new cap gasket? Or cap? Or reservoir tank? Or is there a more serious issue lurking? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! Camusus

here's an update on the two stage thermostat replacement: after 200 or so miles of city driving and then about 1300 miles driving from new mexico to arkansas- up and down hills to the river and back-the engine temp spike has become a non issue. problem solved! also, ive noticed that the valve adjustment gave some new power into the engine (if thats even possible). the mushroom mobile can drive through hilly countryat 50-55mph in 4th gear with a higher rpm than pre-adjustment. at least, thats been my observation. alls well and approaching 10,000 miles on the dolphin. cheers.

i read about that fix, glad to hear it's working for you.

heard. it's been running well. i ordered a two stage thermostat and in the meantime i'll keep an eye on it. thanks.

Well i’ll be darned. Thanks for the info and the link— i’ll be looking into this to learn some more about the engine..

Good day everybody, I recently adjusted the intake (.008") and exhaust (.012") valves (replaced valve cover gasket, half moons, and grommets as well) on my 1983 22R 4spd manual 2wd Toyota dolphin and have noticed that after warming up the engine and driving it for 5-10 minutes the engine temperature gauge increases to about half way for 30-90 seconds and then decreases to "normal" operating temp at ~1/4 on the gauge. This was not happening prior to the adjustment. Has anyone observed this before or have any insight into the cause of this? I have not driven it farther than 15 miles at a time, or in hilly terrain after the valve adjustment, and therefore dont know how the engine temp will respond to more strenuous driving conditions. thanks, camusus

Upon inspection, the model number is Wedgewood T2130. There were two stamps on the valve- 8309D and EL0E07. Ive found a pdf of the oven manual as well and now to search for the part!

Ok, thanks linda, i ll look into it a post my findings. Thanks for the reply.

Hello everybody, I brought the ole Mushroom Mobile (1983 Dolphin) in to a service shop (Albuquerque,NM) today for an LP system drop test and to figure out why the oven is not working properly. The technician said the system is A-OK but that the oven needs a new control valve. Unfortunately, these are not made anymore. Does anyone have a spare they would sell? I’ve just started my search online, but if anyone has a lead I would be grateful. Thanks!