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darrel

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by darrel

  1. I knew I had seen window seals somewhere. Check out www.all-rite.com and do a search of " window rubber seals ". Quite a selection including the design I have. Darrel
  2. No the shop had the window frame so they could cut a proper fit. Yes new seal seals with thinner new glass. The old seal was stretched out because of the thicker glass. I went to a regular glass shop that does auto and home. Your not going to believe this but pictures are here. I guess I don't through anything out. Found the old seal, here are the pictures. Saved from 3/2014, three years. Measurements are .62" x .45". That would be 5/8 inch wide an just under 1/2 inch tall. The part that slides inside of the window channel is 1/2 inch. The inside of seal is smooth. Darrel
  3. As I said, the first two times of trying to get a new window were unsuccessful. The second time was at a window shop, they cut the Lexan. The third try I fixed the problem myself and it does not leak. Should have gone that route in the first place. New glass and Lexan are measured with millimeters not thousands and may come from China. All new stuff that I could find measured about 12 thousands of an inch thinner. Therefore the old seal may not seal. My original glass was 128 thousands of an inch, 1/8 of an inch. Everything else I measured was about 115 thousands. Darrel
  4. No, I did not cut the Lexan, it was the second glass shop that did. Your window construction may be configured differently than mine. Look closely at the first picture I posted and compare it with what you have. When I look at the Winnebago Parts.com site It shows your 91 and my 94 as the same configuration but different part numbers? !991 wt 321 RB 002281-02-000 10.3" x 57.3" glass Window assy 11" x 58.6" Weather strip-self seal-.06 panel x.125-black !994 wt 321 RB 099154-01-000 11.25" x58.1" Window assy 12' x 59" channel-glazing stationary glass .62" x 58.1" This is where it gets confusing. Same picture but different part numbers. My advise; measure your window frame and glass and compare with these numbers. See what you have. If it matches the 1994 measurements order that seal. Hope this is not confusing. Sorry I did not take more in depth pictures. Darrel
  5. I chose Lexan because it will not shatter if a rock hits it. My original glass shattered into thousands of pieces. I could not find tinted Lexan at the time so went with clear. It has not leaked for 3 plus years and 30,000 miles. Looking at the Winnebago parts site. Your year and mine show different pictures, they may be the same though. Have you done a SEARCH on this forum for "over the cab window replacement" ? In that post I show a company with a phone #. Mobility RV Inc. 800-933-7742 give them the info for your motorhome and they will send you the seal. Yes, ribbon seal is a fancy name for BUTYL TAPE. The new window and seal is not a easy install. You have to cut to the correct length and hot melt the ends together then put it into the metal frame. I just remembered, the aluminum window frame is two pieces held together with pop rivets. You have to remove these rivets in order to install the window and seal. Look close a picture #5, on the right side of the widow you can see where the frame divides it also separates on the left side. Darrel
  6. It will work for awhile and look like hel-. Then you will have to re-do. Darrel
  7. Do a search: over the cab window replacement, you will see my original post. Linda has it http://winnebagoparts.com/ click on Look up parts, your rear, model #, a pdf will come up, go to the bottom and click on "window-vent & exterior door group" Part # 099154-01-000 channel glazing stationary glass .62x45" black. Darrel
  8. You will probably have to use a new seal because the new glass, or Lexan is about 12 thousands of an inch thinner than the old glass. This is why my old seal would not seal. Darrel
  9. Are you talking about the motorhome window by the overhead bed? If so I have replaced mine. This is what I did. Window brake. Went to a Window shop and got bad service, they cut the new glass to small, it leaked. Then I found out they broke the fillon siding at the lower left corner of the window. Went to another shop an got a plastic window installed, with old seal. It leaked. I'm getting pissed. I ended up fixing the window myself. I installed a plastic, Lexan, window and used a new seal from Winnebago. The new window seal has to be welded together, I used a soldering gun to do this with a flat blade. Sealed the window to the motorhome with butyl putty. Darrel
  10. This has been a thread that I look forward to reading. I do hope that if you go for Robert he can fix the problem. Also if "when" you come up with another problem, come here first. Darrel
  11. I recently had a valve adjustment done at a Toyota dealership. $613.59, that included 6 new exhaust valve shims. Darrel
  12. Does your black tank look like this? If so, it may be the tank design. Look where the toilet drains into the tank, just above a platform within the tank. The solids land on this platform and get stuck. If you don't mind playing with "used" food, get a stick and push that food to the lower area of the tank. Do this at a dump station and pour lots of water down the toilet. Hope this helps. I get tired of playing with used food and installed a 21 gallon tank, works much better. The 4-7 pictures. Darrel
  13. On a earlier post about spark plugs I mentioned that on my 2004 Tacoma it had Nippon Denso plugs on one side an NGK on the other side from the factory. I ask Toyota service manager about this. He said, Toyota does this to see if the spark plugs have ever been changed?? Darrel
  14. Toyota told me, I doubt that the exhaust valves will be tight. We've seen hundreds of trucks and 4-runners with thousand of miles on them and they were still OK. I said. this a motorhome running down the road with 6500# on its back all the time. When I picked up the motorhome the service manager looked Sheepish when he told me the exhaust valves were all tight. When a vehicle normally will get 18-22 mpg but carries a heavy load all the time and gets 13 mpg the engine is working much harder. Therefor a lot more wear on engine parts. Darrel
  15. Oh da-n a lot. 4.5 hours at $108 P/HR=$486 Gaskets $54.51 6 shims $73.08 =$613.59 Got the motorhome back the next day, didn't skin my hands up, my back doesn't hurt, what other excuse can I have. Good for another 60-70K.
  16. Got my motorhome back this afternoon "valve adjustment." All of the intakes were .009 - .010 so they were not touched. The exhaust were another thing. #1 - #6 were all .005. Too tight. They are now .012 for 5 of them and .013 for the 6th one. Valve specs are: Intake: .007 - .011 Exhaust: .009 - .013 The engine does idle smother now, it was a very slight random miss at idle. I had noticed a rougher idle the past year. Don't anticipate any great improved performance. We bought this motorhome 5-13-2013 at 36,805 miles, it now has 73,744 miles. Darrel
  17. The engine is being torn down as I speak. Hope to hear what it looks like soon.
  18. Timing belt, pulleys, water pump, hoses, camshaft seals were done at 63K. Yes I will be requesting the old shims.
  19. After reading all these posts I have made an appointment for a valve adjustment with Toyota dealership. My engine has 74K on it. I will get clearance reading of before and after and post them here. Dealership wants 108 Dollars per hour, with a 3.5-4.5 hour job plus parts. OUCH!!! But it will be much easier on my back. Any advise to pass on to the mechanic? Darrel
  20. My 2004 Tacoma 3.4 came with Denso's on one side and NGK's on the other side also. What's the deal? Equal merchandising?
  21. Thanks again Linda, I just googled "TP-5403 service manual" and was able to down load it to my computer. Now I have names of parts and will be able to do more testing. Darrel
  22. Thanks Linda, I'm not to optimistic.
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