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dcg9381

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  1. I ran the Camden (Atkins Rotary) blower with a 7.5:1 Forged setup. Even a 8-10psi, I couldn't get it to ping with factory mechanical advance and 87 octane. That setup *loved* a big carb (or TPI). The 22RTE is in the same compression range, It definitely can handle more boost - the limiting factor (if you're running the 22RTE ecu) is that you'll eventually hit boost cut in the 8-10 psi range. If you want a "factory like" replacement turbo the .42/.48 garrett is great - instant boost at any rpm, it's cheap, and can be adapted to a stock turbo manifold. How well the stock ECU will adapt to it's air flow, I'm not sure as I've never done it. I've run the .42/.48 t3, the .60/.63 t3, and 2 bigger t04b turbos. On a modified motor, the .60/.63 t3 is by far my favorite. I used to say "no intercooler" on low boost setups, but I've found that the factory intake is pretty well preheated and I'm seeing intake temps in the 125 deg (non-turbo) and 185+ on the turbo motors. Guys running intercoolers end up with temps slightly above ambient... So it's probably a good modification. The factory 22RTE is in a great compression range. Going to forged pistons won't help resolve the "blow it's top" issue - but they might give you a litte more safety factor if you're really going to boost it. Other downsides to forged slugs: cost ($300-$600), increased piston to wall clearance, and higher oil consumption. Both my blown motors ran CP pistons. The cast pistons are good for somewhere around 200hp, so no real need to change them until you're targeting over that power amount. If you're concerned about the head gasket (and you should be) - the best mod is a set of ARP studs and an MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gasket. The Cometic HG works great. It typically requires an R50 finish or better on the deck. d_ginther@hotmail.com
  2. dcg9381

    Fuel pump

    Search google: "4crawler" "fuel pump" You can jumper some pins on the diagnostic port to trigger the pump. Normally the pump is grounded at the AFM when the AFM detects airflow... I don't know if the pumps will interchange, but you can buy aftermarket pumps for around $100.
  3. I've used their replacement tanks on a pickup... Good quality, a bit square and crude, but decent. They do cause clearance issues - so watch that. I picked one up on ebay for a very good price.. No way I'm paying $500+ for one...
  4. Nolan, contact me if you need help with your turbo project - I've done turbo and supercharged 22R-series.. Tuning these motors correctly is key! d_ginther@hotmail.com
  5. A 500 hp motor is clearly tuned for racing and almost certainly not on pump gas. However, the guy whose website you linked to has done a great job of doing a lot of work with a turbo charged 22RTE - he's 300 flywheel horsepower: http://www.well.com/user/mosk/ I've also been doing some work turbocharging these motors for street use (4runner). No dyno runs yet, I expect over 200 flywheel hp as I'm maxing 440cc injectors. My motor is "overbuilt" - but I believe you can get 200 *reliable* hp out of these things for about $1500 over the cost of a basic rebuild. Keys are: 1) 22RTE pistons (low compression) 2) Megasquirt fuel injection ($300, assembled). This can be intergrated into the stock wiring harness. 3) Basic turbo manifold 4) Garrett t3 turbo 5) Plumbing As weak as these motors are in terms of power output, these are entirely new vehicles at 7psi on pump fuel... The 4runner now cruises up hills at 70mph that I'd be downshifting to 3rd. 65-75 mph cruise is now at 1/8th throttle. There is a mpg penalty - I've lost 1-2 mpg total. In terms of smog legal, there is no reason why I'm not as clean as a stock 22re. No issues passing smog (sniffer) here in TX, although I did have to lean the truck out at idle a bit. I'll buy a toyota RV one of these days... I plan on making it manual transmission and a low-dollar turbo. Details on my 4runner: http://22returbo.net d_ginther@hotmail.com
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