I ran the Camden (Atkins Rotary) blower with a 7.5:1 Forged setup. Even a 8-10psi, I couldn't get it to ping with factory mechanical advance and 87 octane. That setup *loved* a big carb (or TPI).
The 22RTE is in the same compression range, It definitely can handle more boost - the limiting factor (if you're running the 22RTE ecu) is that you'll eventually hit boost cut in the 8-10 psi range. If you want a "factory like" replacement turbo the .42/.48 garrett is great - instant boost at any rpm, it's cheap, and can be adapted to a stock turbo manifold. How well the stock ECU will adapt to it's air flow, I'm not sure as I've never done it.
I've run the .42/.48 t3, the .60/.63 t3, and 2 bigger t04b turbos. On a modified motor, the .60/.63 t3 is by far my favorite. I used to say "no intercooler" on low boost setups, but I've found that the factory intake is pretty well preheated and I'm seeing intake temps in the 125 deg (non-turbo) and 185+ on the turbo motors.
Guys running intercoolers end up with temps slightly above ambient... So it's probably a good modification.
The factory 22RTE is in a great compression range. Going to forged pistons won't help resolve the "blow it's top" issue - but they might give you a litte more safety factor if you're really going to boost it. Other downsides to forged slugs: cost ($300-$600), increased piston to wall clearance, and higher oil consumption. Both my blown motors ran CP pistons.
The cast pistons are good for somewhere around 200hp, so no real need to change them until you're targeting over that power amount. If you're concerned about the head gasket (and you should be) - the best mod is a set of ARP studs and an MLS (multi-layer-steel) head gasket. The Cometic HG works great. It typically requires an R50 finish or better on the deck.
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