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  1. Today
  2. If you're going to replace them all, upgrade to led and buy a matched set. Like these. look to be very similar to shape and mounting you already have. Amazon.com: Partsam 14x Trailer RV Marker LED Light Double Bullseye 10 Diodes Clearance Light Red/Amber, 4x2 Tiger Eye/Double Bubble 12V Rectangular LED Side Marker Light Indicators Surface Mount Camper Trucks : Automotive Or just search for ones you like Linda S
  3. Thank you so much Linda! It’s perfect it comes with bulbs too so I’m happy with this. I was thinking of just getting new ones in the back while I’m at it. Do you know where to find the rear top light cover and bulbs? thank you! Nard
  4. Yesterday
  5. Ok so this one is slightly different but the mounting pattern is the same so no new screw holes. Be a good replacement https://www.etrailer.com/p-MC32AB.html Linda S
  6. just don't put red ones in the front
  7. So I found this light cover replacement. Although it’s Amber. Would this be ok to put as replacement even tho it’s not same color? I plan on replacing all 4
  8. thank you Linda, unfortunately they sold out. Any other places or links you can send where I can find it? I think I’ll replace all of the front ones on my Warrior. thanks again, N
  9. Pretty sure this is the one as long as they've never been changed out. I do see one that looks more oval but not the one you need. https://www.adventurerv.net/349-clearance-replacement-light-lens-red-miroflex-348-p-8129.html They come in amber too. Model number 349. Click just under the link I sent Linda S
  10. Hey everyone, My fiancé and I recently bought a 1993 Toyota Warrior and when we took it for our 1st trip we noticed the front light cover came off (see pics)when we’re driving. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement online? A direct link would help a lot. Thanks everyone, I just found out about this forum and it is awesome! Thank you, N
  11. You need to buy one for horizontal use. Vent location is important Linda S
  12. You can try to find the exact model # for replacement. I purchased a 2 stage propane regulator for grill application at Lowe’s for about $45. Fit my system with no modifications. Think it was a “chargrill “. Online try propane warehouse. Lots of propane accessories at really reasonable prices.
  13. Fred, that did the trick Extech, thanks for that info. Now that I got the regulator removed, I want to replace it. Anything I should know?
  14. Last week
  15. p.s. if you need to replace the tank, a regular bbq tank won't work. it must be for horizontal use
  16. Wow, that never occurred to me. The nut is pretty well rounded off now, but maybe I can get it off with vice grips. I'll give that a try. Thanks.
  17. Thank you for the kind words. Sometimes when it's tough going, the lack of responses and help sting a bit, so that helps. So, would you consider cutting and bending new windows? I've suffered through the learning curve and reduced it to a "follow these steps" task now. I head to Dallas now for a short business trip. Hope to spend Sunday on the wraparounds - possibly installing both this weekend.
  18. Just seal it. I tried to help someone else with these flat front windows and discovered the rubber seal is not replaceable. Strange offset. As to what sealant, I don't know what is best. I usually use clear Flex Seal. Linda S
  19. Hey Doug, Just a quick message of support! This thread has continued to be a great inspiration, and even this speed bump a nice reminder that even your seemingly hyper-effective progress has it's own challenges! On my end I've been dealing with several iterations of trying to seal these front windows, and have now decided I'll just fiberglass. Frustrating to get here after a lot of effort to avoid it, but just not worth it anymore! Looking forward to seeing more of your build, it its own time.
  20. Hey I know this question has been asked hundreds of times but I can’t find a direct answer to this yet so I thoughts I’d post about it. My front over cab window leaks. I’ve resealed the whole outer rim with butyl and that’s not the problem. The problem is the little seal in between the glass and the rim. I’ve attached pictures. It’s only a small amount of leakage so if I could just address the area with a sealant that would be great…but if I have to replace the whole window that’s okay too. If anyone can help with either sealant recommendations or any advice it would be much appreciated! thanks!
  21. Because you still have the foolie, your brakes are the same as a standard Toyota 3/4 ton truck from that year. Pads 1983 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 Brake Pad | RockAuto Drums 1983 TOYOTA PICKUP 2.4L L4 Drum | RockAuto If you don't want to buy through the mail you will at least have a bunch of model numbers to look for locally Linda S
  22. Hey everyone, I am having a difficult time finding the correct parts for replacing the front pads and rebuilding the rear drums in my 1983 Sunrader 18ft with the foolie. Does anyone have experience with this? I am also going to bleed the brakes, so if anyone has any unforeseen advice for these models, that'd be greatly appreciated as well.
  23. Inner and outer bearings are the same as front axle on a 4x4. You do have to pull the axle so draining the diff would be a good idea. Also important that you replace the axle seals. Big job https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1986,pickup,2.4l+l4,1277401,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672 Linda S
  24. hi guys, I need help on this subject. The rear right bearing(s?) is (are?) going out on my 1986 Toyota Odyssey. it’s a 1985 Toyota pick up body with the dual rear axles. I need to clarify - I believe it has the floating rear axles, and someone mentioned inner and outer bearings but I can only find outer bearings online and I also read online that typically full floating reels only have one bearing. are there two bearings? Do I need to drain the rear differential to put the new ones in? I’m going to go back and read this discussion again to try to get a better understanding. Please let me know 🙏
  25. Your regulator is left hand thread. This means you turn it the opposite of what you would normally do. Clockwise will loosen, counterclockwise will tighten. You may have to tap the wrench with a rubber mallet as you probably over tightened it thinking it was right hand thread. Use a flare wrench if you have one. Less chance of rounding over the nut.
  26. Well, I really, really hit a low point here. Every sizable project has these ups and downs. Thankfully the ups typically outnumber the downs by 100 to 1. No idea how I did this, but I cut the NEW window off by an inch, not paying attention to the angle it will be once bent. So, I have some happy news. Yes, you can do all THAT and still have enough plexiglas to cut a fourth wraparound window from a single sheet. Whew. And, BTW, still enough left to replace the door window. I bent the new left window today, and also fixed a wobble in the right window we left out of not knowing what to do with it since it was our first attempt at bending. So, I now have two rough cut, properly bent windows and will restart the "trim-trial fit-trim" cycle all over again but with a better technique I developed. Whew. I'm also going to sell a pattern and instructions for $25 for others who want to give this a go. Two hard-fought items in this will be the proper rough outline of the part, and the critical angle to bend the part. That angle is the franchise, as you'll notice your front portion leans backward, while the side portion is perfectly vertical. Onward and upward.
  27. are you turning the nut clockwise? it is left hand thread
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