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Toyota 20R engines are famous for cracked exhaust manifold ( usually between #2 and #3 exhaust ports). I realize yours is a 22R, but the same issues occurred with that block too. Turns out the heat shield is the culprit. The excess heat generated by the hot exhaust gets trapped underneath the shield. With no way to dissipate, it ends up cracking the cast iron header. Unless you feel you absolutely need that heat shield, I’d delete it completely. Not to be a doomsayer, but the cracked manifold is often mistaken for a leaky exhaust gasket.

my dolphin came to me with the weber. i have used this carb many times on datsun 510's and 620 pick ups. easy to install. the air filter adapter is a must if you need it to smog, but the standard oblong k&n type works better look on ebay as they come up occasionally

Yeah, OK. I'm going to pass on it. For anyone interested, it's near San Diego and the guy says it's never been mounted. Still available for $286 new including shipping and he's selling it for $100 obviously with no shipping. I know someone down there and get to SoCal regularly so shipping would have been "free". PM me for details if you are interested. I will just install a new gasket (it's actually the flange gasket leaking, not the block gasket), and as Extech says, avoid having any issues with the O2 sensor. Plus the original manifold heat shield is in great shape, and that also has the original heated air tube that helps warmup, both of which will not fit the header. Plus I won't need expensive exhaust work to mate to the header. All that for a few HP doesn't have the bang for the buck. I've been trying to talk myself out of it and Extech helped me!! Curious how the Weber conversion went, Extech? My Sunrader has super low miles at 32k, and it runs well. My understanding is the original Toyota carbs eventually have wear issues, but otherwise are reliable. There's a guy on YouTube with a stone grey Sunrader that really likes his Weber conversion. Did you do yours yourself, or..?

your exhaust is factory. unless you do other mods to the engine(cam, intake, carb) i don't think it'll get you much. the o2s is a part of the system, as such removing it can cause some complications. i have a weber 32/36 carb, and i think it's the most bang for the buck

I am thinking of buying a Hedman "shorty" header for more power since I have a leaky exhaust gasket. However, my exhaust (likely original at 32k miles) is dual exhausts from the factory cast iron exhaust manifold, which I did not expect until I crawled under this morning. It connects to a larger single pipe about 6" behind the cab door hinge. Two questions for you: Is that stock? Has anyone else any experience with the shorty header (less added power than the full header which is some 4 feet long)? Also, I was surprised to find my carb 22R has an oxygen sensor in its factory manifold, which I'd have to have installed in the Hedman. Any comments about that? Eliminate it (Idaho has no classic car exhaust requirements)? Input welcome - good, bad and ugly. Thanks.

Ended up having to run a new wire from 10A Engine Fuse behind driver’s kickpanel; the red wire on the 3-wire Alt plug is supposed to have continuity back to the Engine Fuse (IG2 wire I think it’s called), and it did not. Using a fuse tap made this pretty simple. Truck is charging again at 14.5V and didn’t even have to replace Alt.

Yes, 87 and on 1 roof support in 18 footer and 2 in the full sized ones. Not all of them sag severely though. I think my 86 has only about a half inch of sag. Last boyfriend was close to 6 foot and he wasn't bumping his head. Original poster should think more about a Sunrader 4x4 choice. It doesn't have a V6. Only choices are 22re and a very few turbo 22re's. Not a lot of power. Also they sell for a ton. Friend sold his a few months ago for $34,000 and I've seen some sell for more. Makes looking into a 4x4 conversion look more affordable Linda S

From the specs sheet I have it looks like all interiors are 6'. However pre 1987 there was no roof supports added so a lot of these have collapsed or sagged over the years. I believe (and maybe Linda can confirm?) that '87 and onwards there was at least 1 if not 2 roof support beams that helped prevent the roofs from sagging. On my '85 it was sagging at least 5-6" although I was able to regain that by rebuilding the roof with metal supports. Hope this helps

sounds like doing crown molding

Wraparound windows making me insane. The right window was the first one I made. At the end of the day it turned out to be 1/8" too short when I turned to it to do final trim to size. So, had to buy an entire 2nd 4X8 sheet of plexi and start over on the right window. Cut first one and promptly bent it the wrong direction and made a left one instead. Cut second one and now it's ready to start the trimming process. Glad I checked my sanity at the door upon beginning this Sunrader project in October!

Others with stock ceiling height may be better qualified. I am in midst of a full renovation and took the time to arch my ceiling with 14 curved aluminum spars and guess I have 6'1" headroom (I'm 5'10"). I dont know what stock height is but perhaps someone will grab a tape measure and tell you?

it would be quite a bit cheaper to convert it to 4x4 than to buy a factory 4x4 Sunrader.

Im mostly into liteace, townace, hiace cars if anyone has information on theese? it might seen strange but is there a golden year thats got a really good gasoline engine between 1980-99?

@MaineJedthanks we shall do! Gotten many a compliment about the old girl and if it weren't for the leaks and lack of 4WD we'd never think of changing it up @IdahoDoug sorry I meant the height in the motorhome portion, as 6 foot tall people will we be bonking our head on all the roof or just the AC?

Welcome! Not sure what you are asking. You say you have seen Sunraders that solve the 4wd and height issues, meaning you'd be happy with those. Then seem to ask if that height would work for you two? More clarity?

Love the picture, I’ve got the same model as yours and love it. Enjoy the adventures.

Hello everyone! Girlfriend and I are hooked hooked hooked on the Toyota RV lifestyle after buying a dolphin unseen in Utah and driving it up to Skagway, Alaska We loved everything about her (cleo dolfeeno) except the leaky seams and the lack of 4x4 We've been oggling and oogling and seen some magical sunraders which solve both these problems bit we're both just under 6 foot and would love a little insight from owners about if this is a deal breaker? Thanks so much and so stoked to be a part of this community

Jason, would love to see your source/order when it pans out. I am renewing rear bushings as well and would just duplicate your order for convenience if you dont mind posting. Thanks in advance.

Thank you Linda s

The links are there just need bushings.

Here is a better diagram with all the necessary bushings and parts for the end links with part numbers. Googling part numbers brings up lots of places to buy. Stabilizer Cushion #48817-30020 | Autoparts.toyota.com Linda S

After much testing, swapping out alternators, checking fuses, and digging into diagrams, etc, I've determined that, of the the three wires that connect to the alternator (not including the large B+ post wire), the RED wire is dead and has zero voltage with Key On Engine Off. The other two wires in that 3-wire alt connector, the white and the yellow, seem to be doing what they should be doing and show close to battery voltage, which is about 12.6v at the moment. (Sidenote: the truck runs and idles very well... until the battery runs way down, of course.) Anybody ran across this before and/or have a suggestion to troubleshoot the red wire? This wire is supposed to carry 12V from the ignition switch to the alternator, far as I can tell, but it looks like it's probably shorted/cut/chewed-through or something. I'm thinking I've got to trace the route through the entire harness, somehow, or just run a new wire from the fuse panel at driver's feet out to the alt. But, you can tell me if I'm wrong! 😀 I've got a question out on YotaTech about all this too, but I know people here are pretty quick to respond, usually. Thanks as always.

They are there. The part discontinued is the whole metal end link. Here are the bushings 4881730010 4881514160 Linda S Ignore that it might say front. Same bushings for rear

the links werent on the donor ?

these are the main bushings on the end links I’m having trouble finding. Discontinued and can’t find online.