Funny noise vibration - Replace U-Joints

[waiter]

I had developed an unusual vibration or very light shudder when I first started up from a stop, It seemed to do it when I really pressed the gas to the floor, like one cylinder missing or not producing full power (Thats what prompted the compression test)

Then a couple weeks ago, all the sudden I got a growling sound when I decelerated, Sounded like the rear end.

I climbed under and looked at the U-joints, I could see the forward joint (on the aft shaft) looked like the inner guts were coming out and rubbing against the joint.. I couldn't wiggle the shaft, but knew this u-joint was probably going bad.

When I pulled the aft shaft, it was obvious the forward joint was indeed bad, as the shaft had about 1/4 inch of play at the U-Joint.

Removing the old joints was a real bear, I actually ended up using a die grinder and cutting the (+) of the old u-joint out, then used a hydraulic press to push the caps out. This would probably be the fastest way to do it.

OR; find a local shop and see how much they would charge to put the new joints on the drive shaft.

I cleaned up the bores and carefully pressed the new joints in. It took about 20 minutes to bolt the drive shaft back in, making sure to line up all the marks I made when I took it out.

PRESTO - What a difference - No more vibration on acceleration, and no growling on deceleration. It looks like the Toyhouse is ready for its next road trip.

NOTE - I had done some homework on 3rd members (Differentials) in case I needed to replace it, Of particular interest is the paint on the center shaft of the differential, This designates the Differential gear ratio. On mine, the center was painted PINK, so this designates a 4.10

no paint on pinion = 3.90 / 3.93
pink = 4.10
orange = 4.11
blue = 4.30
green = 4.38
yellow = 4.56
white = 4.88

You can also get the build code from the plate and determine the ratio,

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)

[MontanaChinook]

I never knew that they color coded them for gear ratio! New knowledge for me.

I've had my driveshaft off pretty often, and replaced my rear differential, but what you ran into with the u-joint is exactly why I've always brought mine to shops so far...I don't have a press, and it seems like a real pain. But I also feel like being able to replace a u-joint is kind of a necessary skill. They do break, especially on 4x4s.

But it sounds like it's not really a roadside fixable thing anyway, if you need a grinder or press.

I found a driveline shop in town I like, so I just bring my driveshafts into him when I need a new u-joint, or even to check out questionable u-joints.

[waiter]

I was looking at 3rd members, learned a lot about them. Looks like e-bay has them all day long for about $300, and ours will use the old or new style. Fortunately, I don't need one.

I've done several roadside u-joints in me lifetime. I don't think I could have done this one without a die grinder.

I think a drive line shop has the experience and the weird dies you would need to press out the old joints. The first one took me about two hours to get out, the second one took about 20 minutes, Thats the one I used the die grinder on to just cut out the joint, then press out the caps.

These have the clips on the inside, the ones I've messed with before had the clips on the outside

With all that said. WOW, what a difference in sound and vibration.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)

[stamar]

ive done this job many times the main tool you need is a sledge hammer and a socket extension for taking them out. and a careful hand hammering them in. and a back up u joint to use for parts in case you kill one.

if it can come out after being cut it comes out...

[waiter]

I've done several on the side of the road using the socket set as die and a big hammer to pound out the old one. If thats all you have; give it a try, nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Here are the two u-joints I replaced, you can see the one with the damage. it was slowly grining itself away. This one was in the middle (forward joint on aft drive shaft) The other one was at the differential (Aft joint on the aft drive shaft)

I tried to hammer it out in my barn, but gave up after a couple minutes and took them to the shop at work. I have a hydraulic press there.

Pushing the drive shaft end caps out was kind of easy, use oversize sockets as dies , push one end out (by pushing the other end in) after that cap pops off, flip it over and the cap that you just pushed in, you need to push that all the way thru the joint again and back out.

The Flange end is the bear because the flange outsides are not flat and its impossible to push straight without some kind of special rigging or die.

I fought with the first one, clamping pieces of metal to make a slanted platform that matched the angle of the flange so I could push straight..

On the second one, I just cut the joint out, and used the flat surface on the inside of the flange to push against.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto (For Sale)