Jump to content

Battery Isolator Wiring


Dietrich777

Recommended Posts

Hey wondering if someone out there could let me know what goes to what on the isolator. my batteries were not charging when hooked up like I thought the diagram said to for my sunrader. I have it hooked up like a car and its working fine. please help thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a simplified diagram for my Dolphin.

Coach lights, furnace blower, range hood vent, refrigerator (optional)

post-4544-0-44213300-1337548723_thumb.jp

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

little hard to follow more looking for a picture of the isolator under the hood with a description of were the wiring goes to I had the left post hooked to the deep cycle and the camper power distribution. the alternator hooked to the center and the starting engine battery to the right also I believe theres supposed to be a 12v ign also not sure if this is correct anyone clarify

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's solid state "A" = alternator, post 1 and 2 makes no difference front or rear and "E" should be powered with the key on only. It must have 4 posts 3 big ones and one little one other wise it won't work the Toyota alternator requires the "E" terminal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

waiter

This is a simplified diagram for my Dolphin.

John Mc...88 Dolphin 4 Auto

On our 91 V6 Dolphin the relay isolator is fed from a wire on the battery lug to the left side stud. Rt side stud is to a 30 Amp ckt breaker then to the battery box where there's another ckt breaker. The PDF I downloaded from the Tekonsha web site shows a 30 Amp ckt breaker right off the truck battery wire to the isolator. I am adding this breaker to ours as I don't like unprotected wires off the hot side. It appears that this is all original from National RV??? Are any of the toyota RV's made with the feed battery side fused or ckt breakered??? The breaker is rusted a bunch so I'm gonna replace it and the lugs and keep the old unit for a spare.

vanman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my isolater just broke. I was testing it, with the headlights letting it go on and off really quick and it stopped working.

i guess I need another one does someoen recomend one?

what are the stats of the standard one?

http://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-7000-Terminal-Battery-Isolator/dp/B0002UHVYQ/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1337583463&sr=1-23

i think it looks a lot like this one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dietrich;

The isolator most commonly used is the one that Stamar has referenced in his post. It resembles on older style starter solenoid. (Its NOT, they are very different)

One of the heavy terminals should go to the truck battery. There should be a circuit protector in line with this cable (35 amp). This is what Vanman is referring to in his post. ( yes, mine has the circuit breaker and its also rusted)

The other heavy terminal should go to the coach battery.

The small lead normally goes to the "Ignition" terminal on the alternator. (or you could connect it to the ignition switch). This terminal supplies 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the ON position. This energizes the isolator solenoid.

The metal case of the isolator needs to be at ground, i.e. mounted on a metal fender or firewall.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so then the alternator output shares the heavy post with the engine battery the 12v ignition goes to the center and the other heavy to the deep cycle and the camper. also its an 83 truck do I need to have a voltage regulator sensing wire hooked up somewere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your alternator output should go to the battery, maybe through a fuse link or circuit protector. You shouldn't need to change any of that. All of the normal truck alternator and charging circuit should be factory stock.

You should have a #10 wire come off the battery PLUS terminal, go through a circuit breaker, then go to one side of the Isolator. The other side of the isolator should go to the coach battery (via a #10 wire) .

The small center connector on the isolator should go to the "IGN" on your alternator, This terminal should have 12 volts on it whenever the ignition switch is turned on. (If your not sure about the alternator "IGN" terminal, you can find an IGN terminal on the fuse block and connect it there. basically, the Isolate is energized whenever the truck is running (key switch in the Ignition position)

Your alternator sense wire should not be moved, (if you have one) it should be attached to the truck battery.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

stamar

my isolator just broke. I was testing it, with the headlights letting it go on and off really quick and it stopped working.

http://www.amazon.co...463&sr=1-23' class='bbc_url'

Yes that's the good one, don't get the $10.00 cheepo from some web sites. A side note to get the free shipping from amazon you must bump up the dollar value, I got the Camco ckt breakers from them also to get the free shipping.One note on that, Camco makes 2 types of the breakers and on Amazons web site the PICTURES are wrong on all their pages!!!! the description matches the Camco part#, matches what you will get but the picture on that same Amazon web page further down shows the metal cased side-mount ckt breaker but the description says"Camco 65224 30 Amp 1/Card Straight Mount Ckt Breaker". That # is the number for the plastic body straight mount type, If you search around Amazon does sell the metal cased side mount ckt breakers with a different Camco # and a picture of the plastic straight-mount kind!!!

I got on of each kind 30 Amp each. The Amps for these vary from 10 to 50 in 10 Amp steps, both styles.

On another note, our Dolphin's got a 4 gauge wire from the truck batt to the isolator and #4 also from the isolator to the house battery. The local auto parts stores around here don't have this size crimp connector, so I got mine from Crutchfield's web site, they are available in 2 hole sizes 5mm and 8mm, the small ones fit the #10-32 studs on the Camco's and the big ones fit the larger terminals on the isolator.

vanman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Those 30 amp circuit breakers are also available from Napa Auto parts for $4.65 a piece. I went through the same process of replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...