Bikemike Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Hello everyone, thanks for looking. We have put about 12,000 miles on our 87 Escaper in the 15 months that we have owned it and it's been running great. On our last trip I let the gas tank get quite empty (1 gallon left). Some days after we arrived at our current location in Oregon, while moving the camper to a shadier spot, the engine stopped running. It made a few feeble attempts at turning over and then, nothing but cranking. It won't turn over. It has gas and good voltage at the battery. I'm wondering about a problem with the fuel pump and or the filter... Any suggestions about an order of things to check? We are thankful to have a shady place to work on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 When you say a gallon left do you mean you filled it up and put 16 gallons in it. if so it's very likely you clogged the fuel pump. You can replace the filter pretty easy but the pump is in the tank. Have to drop the tank to get to it. 30 year old vehicle is going to have a lot of crap in the bottom of the fuel tank. Not good to let it get too low. Try starting it with starter fluid. If it starts right up you know it's not an engine problem Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Yes, I put about 16 gallons in. I got to a long stretch with no gas stations and opted to not turn back to the last one:( thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Where do I spray the starter fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 Take the hose off the air intake near the throttle body. Big round hole. You can spray it there. Also works spraying it into the large hose on the power steering booster. Not quite as easy as a carb model but both will work. Surprised no one else answered this. Guys? Anyone got a better idea? Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 A little goes a long way, a short squirt in the intake airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 Ok, thanks. Lceperformance helped me verify that the pump needs to be replaced and a we ordered a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Well, it turns out that my fuel pump is fine. It spins nicely when I hook it up to the battery. The volt meter says that I have 12v (w/the jumper cable in the diagnostics box and ignition on) at the fuel pump plug...but, when I plug in the pump...silence. So I tried a 12v light bulb wired up to the plug...nothing and yet it lights up at the battery. I expect then that I must have a wiring issue. That there is just enough of a connection to register 12v on the volt meter but no current. Question: should I return the denso fuel pump or put it in...? The current one has 80,000 miles on it. I already have the gas tank and pump out. Edited May 12, 2017 by Bikemike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I have heard tell of OE Toyota pumps lasting forever and sometimes longer. I went on a trip and lost my fuel pump with a 100,000 mi on a Friday night in the middle of no where. One of the Toyota Guru's that use to come here said that one of the first things he did was replace the fuel pump on a new ride. Friday night, middle of no where, my vote is to flush out the tank and replace the pump. HTH Jim SWFL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 (edited) If you have a running fuel pump when you jump it AND 12 volts at the connector where it hooks up to the pump, I would guess that you are not getting a good connection when you hook the wiring harness up to the pump. You could have a bunch of corrosion on one or both halves of the quick connection. Try plugging and unplugging the connection a bunch of times to get the corrosion off of the contacts. You could also use a very small screwdriver to try clean the connection. If you get the fuel pump running, put some dielectric grease on the plugs to cut down on future corrosion. If my RV has been sitting for a while since I used it, I turn the key to the run (not start) position and listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for a couple of seconds to get the fuel pressure up to where it should be. Edited May 14, 2017 by Bob C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 One of the tools I have learned to use in the care and feeding of older vehicles. When ever I have any connector apart on the Toy I give it a shot of this. Mechanical cleaning is always better, but many things are too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Thanks for all the helpful tips. I found the offending connection! Here is a picture of what separated us from our fuel supply. The pump works before but not after this spot. They used a lot of those plastic/aluminum splicer things for the camper conversion to lengthen the wires, etc. Thankfully, this one gave up the ghost at a convenient time for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Now, I've got the wires all sodered up and the pump works with the jumper cable in between Fp and +B and ignition on. It doesn't come on w/o the jumper cable...isn't the pump supposed to come on for a few seconds while the key is "on"? I get the same results when I prop open the air flow meter as when the jumper is in-the fuel pump continues to spin and spin w/ the ignition "on". Question: if the fuel pump doesn't come on for a few seconds while the key is first turned to the "on" position, is there another issue? A relay? A fuse? I have yet to find either. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVdaytrader Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I don't know how the 4 cyl works, but with the V6 the fuel pump does not come on till a switch in the air flow meter closes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikemike Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 On 2017-05-13 at 10:27 PM, Bob C said: If you have a running fuel pump when you jump it AND 12 volts at the connector where it hooks up to the pump, I would guess that you are not getting a good connection when you hook the wiring harness up to the pump. You could have a bunch of corrosion on one or both halves of the quick connection. Try plugging and unplugging the connection a bunch of times to get the corrosion off of the contacts. You could also use a very small screwdriver to try clean the connection. If you get the fuel pump running, put some dielectric grease on the plugs to cut down on future corrosion. If my RV has been sitting for a while since I used it, I turn the key to the run (not start) position and listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for a couple of seconds to get the fuel pressure up to where it should be. On 2017-05-15 at 9:07 AM, RVdaytrader said: I don't know how the 4 cyl works, but with the V6 the fuel pump does not come on till a switch in the air flow meter closes. The campers running ?. It took awhile for some gaskets to come in, the ones under the lock rings for the sending unit and fuel level float were shot. But, it was worth the wait for a "not dry rotted" rubber barrier in between 17 gallons of gas and the outside world. I guess the fuel pump on our camper just doesn't come on unless that air flow meter closes because I never did hear it come on while the key was in the "on" position. Here is a picture of the gasket packaging for those interested: It's not loading... part #s 579-140 (fuel level gauge) and 579-032 (sending unit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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