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Anyone else have an odd issue when your 22RE engine runs very hot on the freeway, but OK at lower speeds? Even in cool outdoor temperatures?
My 88 Dolphin has brand new radiator,fan clutch, water pump and thermostat.
It is running at the very top of the normal range on the temp guage(right on the upper white line!) while on the hiway at 60MPH, when it is about 60 degrees outside.
If you are driving on a secondary road at 45-50, temperature is much cooler.
I have looked at a few threads on various Toyota truck forums, looks like this is not an uncommon problem.
I've seen explanations of using a thermostat that has two vent holes specifically designed for this issue, and that it related to air bubbles in the cooling system that need to be "burped."
Anyone else had a similar problem? Here's a link to a thermostat that was recommended http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#Thermostat
Im gonna check the actual temp with a laser temp gauge at the thermostat this week, in case its just the gauge giving a weird reading.

DSCN0025.JPG

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Fan clutch? That's warm but not over heated. The engine has a special thermostat with a by pass valve and must fit in properly but I kind of doubt that's your problem. I would check the fan clutch operation it maybe slipping at speed.

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Sorry I missed the fan clutch. Hate to say it but a head gasket can cause this also.

 

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OK, I went to a mechanic with a good rep and a great shop in town that works on a variety of rigs. He said he is sure it is NOT the head gasket. I was going to have him work on the rig to get the cab AC going again. he said it looks obvious to him that AC condenser, which sits in front of the radiator is totally clogged with leaves, bugs and other debris, and that is why it is running hot on the freeway and not at lower speeds. He said that would not be the case if it was the head gasket. The condenser is toast anyway, as it is leaking. I am on vacation next week, but when i get back, I am taking it in, he is going to get a new condenser (this one is actually no longer available), but were going to look for one that will fit. he seems confident that once a new clean condenser is in place, I should have no more problem. I'll keep you posted if that is indeed the case. I hope so.His shop was the one I had do the new radiator, fan clutch ( which WAS not working) and water pump right after I bought it a couple weeks ago. It had run warmer than normal on the freeway drive from where I bought it 130 miles away, and I wanted to totally rebuild the cooling system to start with, as it was the original radiator. I got the rig for 2400, and planned on fixing as many things as I can with my budget.

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I'm at a loss as to how a good mechanic can replace a radiator and not notice that the AC condenser is totally full of crap. Aftermarket condensers are available. If it was me and money was an issue getting the AC working would not be top priority. Oh yeah I don't have AC and it hasn't bothered me yet. Tell the expert to take the radiator back out and spray the crap out of the existing condenser so air flows through it again and leave it alone for now.

Linda S

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I get your point. But  AC is a priority for me for sure. I was planning on having it fixed from the beginning, since I only paid 2400 for the rig to begin with.

 

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I drove a VW camper bus for five years with no heat or AC, then a big Dodge Camper for 8 years with no AC. I have been using a Toyota Previa van with AC for camping for 12 years, and there's no way im going back to sweating my behind off in the Eastern Washington desert or anywhere else without an air conditioner.

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3 hours ago, deadflo said:

I drove a VW camper bus for five years with no heat or AC, then a big Dodge Camper for 8 years with no AC. I have been using a Toyota Previa van with AC for camping for 12 years, and there's no way im going back to sweating my behind off in the Eastern Washington desert or anywhere else without an air conditioner.

I can relate, I live in Florida a "nice" summer day can be 95° with 85% humidity.  I do not understand how anyone settled here before AC.

 

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If the condenser is bad take it out and go for a ride it's going to get replaced any way. Why didn't he blow the crap out of it when he replaced the radiator? Seem like it would have avoided a come back for an over heat issue.

 

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On 4/23/2017 at 6:04 PM, deadflo said:

Anyone else have an odd issue when your 22RE engine runs very hot on the freeway, but OK at lower speeds? Even in cool outdoor temperatures?
My 88 Dolphin has brand new radiator,fan clutch, water pump and thermostat.
It is running at the very top of the normal range on the temp guage(right on the upper white line!) while on the hiway at 60MPH, when it is about 60 degrees outside.
If you are driving on a secondary road at 45-50, temperature is much cooler.
I have looked at a few threads on various Toyota truck forums, looks like this is not an uncommon problem.
I've seen explanations of using a thermostat that has two vent holes specifically designed for this issue, and that it related to air bubbles in the cooling system that need to be "burped."
Anyone else had a similar problem? Here's a link to a thermostat that was recommended http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#Thermostat
Im gonna check the actual temp with a laser temp gauge at the thermostat this week, in case its just the gauge giving a weird reading.

DSCN0025.JPG

 

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I have had the same problem. I changed  thermostat first with new ( safe thermostat that has a rubber seat for the butterfly)  ahh things were fine, for about 500 miles then same thing.

so started changing other things as you have done. Finally i found a thermostat with out the rubber seat and have not a problem since. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

This problem is still happening. I am getting an aftermarket temp gauge installed so I can see if it might just be erroneous readings from the stock gauge. I had th compression tested, as well as the test for exhaust gases in the coolant to see if is the head gasket, they both were negative. It is not leaking any fluid. I have found several threads on this forum with exactly the same problem, without any conclusion, so I'm not quite sure what to look for next. Again  Ive switched out all the cooling system to new. I was unable to find an aftermarket thee row radiator, so I had to go with the stock two row. Ive tried 3 thermostats, and am currently running the coolest available, a 160 degree. he runs cool for about ten miles or so, depending on the outside temp, then heats right up to the top of the "normal" range, even slight higher at 65MPH on a hot day, without any hills. I have had the shop make sure they bled the air form the cooling system, then I got a sealable funnel and tried it myself a couple times. Pretty sure air in the system has been purged. I should have new temp gauge in next week. I was excited about buying this rig two months, ago, now pretty disappointed. 

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On ‎4‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 6:52 PM, Derek up North said:

What problems were you having that prompted you to have a new radiator, fan clutch, water pump and thermostat installed? Same as now? Maybe the condenser was the problem all along. :(

Uh, what prompted it was the rig running at the upper end of the normal range on the guage when I drove it home on the hiway from purchasing it from 150 miles away. I got it for 2400 dollars, thought it would be a good idea to renew the 29 year old cooling system.

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I found an interesting thread about a special Toyota T-stat that might help my situation, I wounder if anyone else has had this issue or tried this?
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#Thermostat

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thing is lots of don't have expensive Toyota thermostats and ours don't overheat. If there was air in the system but he sounds like he was really careful about getting that all out. I know cooling ports in the heads can get very clogged up. Got to be another reason for his problems. The extra heat gauge he's getting will tell us more. I hope. Timing advanced to far can cause overheating. Have you checked the timing?

Linda S

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34 minutes ago, linda s said:

thing is lots of don't have expensive Toyota thermostats and ours don't overheat. If there was air in the system but he sounds like he was really careful about getting that all out. I know cooling ports in the heads can get very clogged up. Got to be another reason for his problems. The extra heat gauge he's getting will tell us more. I hope. Timing advanced to far can cause overheating. Have you checked the timing?

Linda S

Second on this. My engine is off to the machinist right now to be measured etc. Once we got the block disassembled down to bare iron it became obvious that someone had run straight water in the rad for a really really long time. Caked layers of corroded metal and junk restricting the flow through coolant passages in the head and block. Unfortunately (according to my pal whose helping me rebuild the engine, I'm still learning myself) there's no quick or easy fix when it's that bad. No amount of flushing or backflushing would've gotten all that crap out. It just had to be baked off at a few thousand degrees.

If money's tight I would grab a timing light from Amazon ('fulfilled by amazon' or 'sold by amazon') due to their no questions asked return policy.

Edited by 256bit
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Hey deadflo, I had that 2 stage Toyota t stat installed on my rig to avoid overheating just in case. I'm a fan of genuine Toyota parts. Although my rig didn't overheat before installation she does run cooler with the 2 stage t stat now. Worth a try? Sorry your having trouble with your rig. Try not to get discouraged. You paid a cheap price for it and it not uncommon to put the extra money saved on your purchase towards needed repairs. I hope you get this solved. Good Luck! 

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17 hours ago, linda s said:

thing is lots of don't have expensive Toyota thermostats and ours don't overheat. If there was air in the system but he sounds like he was really careful about getting that all out. I know cooling ports in the heads can get very clogged up. Got to be another reason for his problems. The extra heat gauge he's getting will tell us more. I hope. Timing advanced to far can cause overheating. Have you checked the timing?

Linda S

Yeah we checked the timing first thing, it was normal.

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Can email or call in this Saturday on the radio show KSEV for free help from some of the best mechanics I've talked to in the SE & SW USA. Texascardoctor.com. Usually 2 to 3 mechanics on live radio show 12 - 2PM CST.

Haven't read in detail all the posts but did you install OEM W pump & fan clutch or good aftermarket? If not might want to change WP/clutch. Otherwise seems like you"ll have to remove head & inspect passage ways.

I'd sure contact Skeeter on radio for solution. He's helped me & my friends many times. 

Good luck.    

Edited by vrocrider
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OK, thanks my friend. I did not install oem water pump, but the problem was happening before I updated the cooling system.

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I'd review the specs closely on new radiator vs. old replacement. New ones typically are cheap aluminum & come in all different flavors. I just had my original copper cleaned & pressure tested. $85 I spent would have bought a new aluminum.

Might want to be thinking of block freeze plug removal to inspect for rust crude inspection. My guess is this is where your problem is if radiator specs check out OK. 

If clogged might ask radio folks about cooling system cleaner & replace fan clutch with electric fans. Perhaps a cheap alternative to opening motor.     

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Years ago when I still owned my 1984 Dolphin, 1983 truck, 22R, the temp was always good no matter what speed, outside temp, ac on. Then gradually the temp gauge started to climb toward the hot side. I would shut down the rig for 5-10 minutes and the temp would be back to normal. After restarting and driving for awhile 10, 15, 20 minutes the temp would start to climb again. I tried all the normal fixes. Changed coolant, always used green antifreeze, changed the thermostat, from NAPA, nothing, still the same. Next changed the thermostat from Toyota, I liked the looks of this thermostat much better but it did not work any better. Finally changed the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota, THAT did the trick.

Outcome: The old 22R ran at its old temp weather it was cold, hot, AC on, AC on up hills at 100 degrees out.

Try changing the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota.          I have posted this same post before, maybe not the same wording.

Darrel

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2 hours ago, vrocrider said:

I'd review the specs closely on new radiator vs. old replacement. New ones typically are cheap aluminum & come in all different flavors. I just had my original copper cleaned & pressure tested. $85 I spent would have bought a new aluminum.

Might want to be thinking of block freeze plug removal to inspect for rust crude inspection. My guess is this is where your problem is if radiator specs check out OK. 

If clogged might ask radio folks about cooling system cleaner & replace fan clutch with electric fans. Perhaps a cheap alternative to opening motor.     

Good info on the freeze plug. I got a brand new old style copper radiator.

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6 minutes ago, darrel said:

Years ago when I still owned my 1984 Dolphin, 1983 truck, 22R, the temp was always good no matter what speed, outside temp, ac on. Then gradually the temp gauge started to climb toward the hot side. I would shut down the rig for 5-10 minutes and the temp would be back to normal. After restarting and driving for awhile 10, 15, 20 minutes the temp would start to climb again. I tried all the normal fixes. Changed coolant, always used green antifreeze, changed the thermostat, from NAPA, nothing, still the same. Next changed the thermostat from Toyota, I liked the looks of this thermostat much better but it did not work any better. Finally changed the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota, THAT did the trick.

Outcome: The old 22R ran at its old temp weather it was cold, hot, AC on, AC on up hills at 100 degrees out.

Try changing the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota.          I have posted this same post before, maybe not the same wording.

Darrel

Good info, Darrel, maybe you missed that I am installing an aftermarket temp gauge, I already bought one, just waiting to have it installed next week, hopefully that is the culprit!

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Infrared IR no touch temperature gun's are not too expensive. Quick way to verify temps.  

Fan clutch...My Toy V6 has stock hydraulic actuated fan clutch. Typically this design very bullet proof. Years ago on a jeep went from stock hydraulic to aftermarket with I don't know what type design. Had to go back to stock hydraulic because aftermarket fan pulled too much air at speed. Sounded like a jet turbine & I'm sure was detrimental to MPG. I'd think the opposite could take place where aftermarket could slip too much & not pull enough air.      

TESTING FC...

The second problem a fan clutch can have is the opposite problem. The clutch fails to engage no matter how hot the engine becomes. This condition will cause the engine to overheat because the fan fails to pull the necessary air through the radiator that cools the engine by the use of the systems coolant. This problem can be detected by listening to the fan while the engine is running and hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage. If you do not hear the fan start working shut the engine off and open the hood. Try to spin the fan clutch it should give a fair amount of resistance. If the fan just freewheels the clutch inside the fan has gone bad and should be replaced to prevent engine damage due to overheating. This problem will also degrade the operation of the air conditioner as well due to the lack of air being pulled through the condenser of the system.

Edited by vrocrider
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4 hours ago, vrocrider said:

Infrared IR no touch temperature gun's are not too expensive. Quick way to verify temps.  

Fan clutch...My Toy V6 has stock hydraulic actuated fan clutch. Typically this design very bullet proof. Years ago on a jeep went from stock hydraulic to aftermarket with I don't know what type design. Had to go back to stock hydraulic because aftermarket fan pulled too much air at speed. Sounded like a jet turbine & I'm sure was detrimental to MPG. I'd think the opposite could take place where aftermarket could slip too much & not pull enough air.      

TESTING FC...

The second problem a fan clutch can have is the opposite problem. The clutch fails to engage no matter how hot the engine becomes. This condition will cause the engine to overheat because the fan fails to pull the necessary air through the radiator that cools the engine by the use of the systems coolant. This problem can be detected by listening to the fan while the engine is running and hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage. If you do not hear the fan start working shut the engine off and open the hood. Try to spin the fan clutch it should give a fair amount of resistance. If the fan just freewheels the clutch inside the fan has gone bad and should be replaced to prevent engine damage due to overheating. This problem will also degrade the operation of the air conditioner as well due to the lack of air being pulled through the condenser of the system.

The fan clutch is brand new, and it does not spin freely at all, stops after about a third of a turn. I was going got an IR (laser?) thermometer, but already got the new temp/oil pressure gauge that's going in next week. I may price those IR thermometers anyway this weekend. Thanks for the info!

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23 minutes ago, deadflo said:

The fan clutch is brand new, and it does not spin freely at all, stops after about a third of a turn. I was going got an IR (laser?) thermometer, but already got the new temp/oil pressure gauge that's going in next week. I may price those IR thermometers anyway this weekend. Thanks for the info!

Harbor freight. Less than 30 bucks and you can print out a 20% off coupon from the internet. Looks like there's one not too far in the north section of Spokane. This is the one I have. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-With-Laser-Targeting-69465.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMTM5NTUiLCJza3UiOiI2OTQ2NSIsImlzIjoiMTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiODkwNSJ9

 

At least 5 years old and still works fine. Printable coupon on main page. It's only 19.99. Super deal

https://www.harborfreight.com/

Linda S

 

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5 minutes ago, linda s said:

Harbor freight. Less than 30 bucks and you can print out a 20% off coupon from the internet. Looks like there's one not too far in the north section of Spokane. This is the one I have. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-With-Laser-Targeting-69465.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMTM5NTUiLCJza3UiOiI2OTQ2NSIsImlzIjoiMTkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk IjoiODkwNSJ9

 

At least 5 years old and still works fine. Printable coupon on main page. It's only 19.99. Super deal

https://www.harborfreight.com/

Linda S

 

OK, cool, thanks Linda.
I wonder which specific areas I should check temps at. Thermostat housing, top and bottom of radiator? Im guessing there will be quite a range of temperatures in those areas. I borrowed one of those once from a shop to test my Datsun 240-Z and the temp range was quite wide in all the readings on the radiator. I think what I want to know is the temp of the water inside the engine block, like where the stock temp sending unit is located.

Edited by deadflo
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Called my radio mechanics. Their suggestions:

1.) verify temp gauge. Shoot IR gun near where temp sensor plugs into system or install 2nd gauge. 

2.) Verify base timing. Verify timing advancing with RPM increase.     

3.) Clogged muffler/cat converter. This would also cause a loss in power.

Good luck.

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22 hours ago, vrocrider said:

Called my radio mechanics. Their suggestions:

1.) verify temp gauge. Shoot IR gun near where temp sensor plugs into system or install 2nd gauge. 

2.) Verify base timing. Verify timing advancing with RPM increase.     

3.) Clogged muffler/cat converter. This would also cause a loss in power.

Good luck.

Thanks again for your help! I appreciate you talking to them! I went to a sports car./race event yesterday couldn't call in! LOL. Im getting an IR thermometer today, but already have an appointment to install an aftermarket temp/oil pressure gauge. Im hoping thats the story, cause the cat is brand new, and I already checked timing, both static and fully advanced.

 

Thanks again!

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OK, I got an IR thermometer at Harbor freight. I called them about honoring the website coupon, and they said just bring the number in off the page, but when I got there, their computer wouldn't honor the number. But I got it anyway for 27 dollars. Bummer, oh well hopefully I can use it for some other purpose. (also bought a tire for a big rubber maid wagon, but when I got it home, found it had a big tear in the sidewall, hidden by the wheel. Wow, what a crappy store)
OK, so I'm going to take a few temp readings today. Im not wuiter sure where the temp sender is on the engine block, one source described it as between the intake runners on the block somewhere. i think today i ll take  couple reading from the side of the block, thermostat housing, ,upper and lower radiator houses, and compare readings when it is warmed up to normal on the gauge, and when it has run for 15 miles or so, and it is on the top of the normal range on the stock temp gauge.

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