Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 1/9/2018 at 8:32 AM, ednelson100 said:

Kim,  Here is where I got my original info. on this upgrade. Rolling the odometer to correct reading was very tricky but can be done, just make sure you first take close up pictures before you disassemble the odometer if you choose to do that part of it.

toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4058-instrument-cluster-swap/

If you solder these two connectors together 4WD will then light when ECT button is pressed.

IMG_0453.JPG.3ea08ee307c13fc3d4c6d621d2824a0e.JPG

Open front of instrument panel, and cut out 4WD and tape ECT in its place and you have your ECT light back.

IMG_0452.JPG.8861bca7643b799642ff584609f41b2b.JPG

It can, Just ask Mr. Speed.....James who has had it well over 90MPH after his swap. Acceleration is greatly improved also.

Ed

Perfect. Thanks!  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 196
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On ‎1‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 9:24 AM, danpty said:

If there's still life left in the A340E great.  I guess I'll wire up to the T100 2WD computer.  I hope the tranny made the trip or I'll be posting up a the MT conversion after the motor is dropped in.  It's a pain to drill the hole for the Master cylinder, plumb the slave cylinder etc. after the 3.4's dropped in. 

   I had mine towed for about 5 miles twice a few years ago without disconnecting drive shaft and it did not hurt the transmission so short distance does seem to be OK. 

In case anyone is interested,

  I still have my old 1992  3.0 / A340E with 115K miles in excellent condition I would sell. I am in San Antonio but will be travelling to AZ, CA, FL, NM and OH and who knows where else this year.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/9/2018 at 9:32 AM, ednelson100 said:

Kim,  Here is where I got my original info. on this upgrade. Rolling the odometer to correct reading was very tricky but can be done, just make sure you first take close up pictures before you disassemble the odometer if you choose to do that part of it.

toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4058-instrument-cluster-swap/

If you solder these two connectors together 4WD will then light when ECT button is pressed.

IMG_0453.JPG.3ea08ee307c13fc3d4c6d621d2824a0e.JPG

Open front of instrument panel, and cut out 4WD and tape ECT in its place and you have your ECT light back.

IMG_0452.JPG.8861bca7643b799642ff584609f41b2b.JPG

It can, Just ask Mr. Speed.....James who has had it well over 90MPH after his swap. Acceleration is greatly improved also.

Ed

I wouldn't drive a Toy Home 90 mph even if it had a jet engine in it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/11/2017 at 1:22 PM, defrag4 said:

MPG is still pretty disappointing, getting ~11-13, but I am flying down the highway at 75mph B)will be interested to see if her MPG improves once I get the rear o2 sensor installed and get off these damn highways, backroads are calling my name, should be on the move again in Jan

That sounds about what I am getting. I now have driven over 10,000 miles on the 3.4/5VZE motor with no issues and still loving it.

My 3.4 motor has a total of 160K miles on it and is still in excellent condition and getting the following MPG.

City: 13.5 average

Highway on a flat road with no wind at 55 MPH / 2500 RPM: 14.5 average

Highway on a flat road with no wind at 70 MPH / 3000 RPM: 12.5 average

So, my conclusion is MPG is about the same on the 3.4 as it was on my 3.0 before the 3.0 started having serious issues. The amount of wind resistance seems to have the most impact on MPG in my opinion.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/15/2018 at 7:31 PM, defrag4 said:

lol, were not driving, were flying low baby!!

I have hit 90 Mph a couple times; both were on downhill with back-winds in straight up straight down hills heading west on turnpike early in the trip to go to Yellowstone. There were no vehicles ahead or behind me; and I was literally gravity cruising to get up the next pass. The sweetspot for MPG I find to be 65-67 MPH at least on my old motor. I am still in break in period on my new motor that was designed for the Toy and its MPG is all over the place; but definitely better at higher speeds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

finally installed my Neutral Start Switch today, got my PRNDL and reverse lights back yay!!

 

had to cut the wiring harness sheath back a ways and split out the NSS plug from the rest of it so I could strectch it over top of the trans and down to its home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also got the airbox installed off the 4runner and its sound 10000% times better, no more annoying drone, fits under the hood fine, had to rig up some mounting brackets out of random bolts and zipties

Edited by defrag4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am also working on swapping my gauge cluster out for the SR5 one with RPM, oil pressure, volts, etc

 

My first attempt was a failure, got a nice guage set from a 96 T100 figuring it would match the motor perfectly... well it matched the motor fine but it the guage set used a mechanical speedo whereas my trans is actually an electronic speedo, so back it went

Now I have one from a 93 T100 with a 3VZE, electronic speedo. got it plugged in but have no RPM gauge, not sure if it was wired from the factory for one or not? I am reading some articles that say I can tap into the diag port under the hood or the red/yellow wire coming off the igniter for an RPM signal and run a wire back to the gauge set to get my RPMs to work, we shall see tomorrow

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I have got everything working now on my new gauge cluster, EXCEPT for the damn tach...

 

I ran a tach sensor wire over to the "P" pulse terminal on the back of the cluster and then over to the black wire coming out of the ignitor, which according to the webs seems to be the right one, unforunately the IGN port on my 3.4L diag port doesnt actually have any wires going to it.

 

Did you have to add any resistors to your cluster to get the tach to work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, defrag4 said:

still need to figure out a solution for the missing trans temp sender, its my last CEL i need to defeat

I welded a bung into my pan, no codes. Alternatively, Geno's garage sells an adapter that basically just secures the sensor to an exterior trans line. You could temporarily rig your temp sensor in a similar fashion to see if the code stops setting.

Edited by danny dan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2018 at 4:11 PM, defrag4 said:

So I have got everything working now on my new gauge cluster, EXCEPT for the damn tach...

 

I ran a tach sensor wire over to the "P" pulse terminal on the back of the cluster and then over to the black wire coming out of the ignitor, which according to the webs seems to be the right one, unforunately the IGN port on my 3.4L diag port doesnt actually have any wires going to it.

 

Did you have to add any resistors to your cluster to get the tach to work?

Prior to the 3.4 swap, that wire would have gone from the P terminal as you mentioned to the negative side of the coil. The tach should at least be moving even if not correct. There is a potentiometer on the back if I recall for adjustment. You will need to wire the 10k resistor if not using a 3.4 t100 cluster. All the pickups and runners used cable speedo from 89-91 and electronic speedo from 92-95 with the exception of the t100. I have a resistor I can mail you. 

Many thanks for the tips on the swap btw. I have about 900 miles on my 3.4 swap into my 92 Itasca. 13-15 mpg so far. Runs like a champ. Here is an under hood picture of mine as a reference to anyone considering the swap.DSC_1429.thumb.JPG.23640ef04e88fe6b21131e384498f68f.JPG

DSC_1431.JPG

Edited by danny dan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/16/2018 at 10:55 PM, danny dan said:

Here is an under hood picture of mine as a reference to anyone considering the swap.

Very nice and neat looking job Dan.

I wonder who will be next?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2018 at 1:02 AM, defrag4 said:

still need to figure out a solution for the missing trans temp sender, its my last CEL i need to defeat

Use a resistor to trick it into thinking it's fine. It's a negative coaficent thyristor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, ednelson100 said:

Very nice and neat looking job Dan.

I wonder who will be next?

Thanks Ed - I certainly benefited from reading through this thread before I started. Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Drove my 3.4L across the country from Florida

 up to Alaska and back down, ~30,000 miles on the new swap, nary a PEEP from the motor, she is a beast. crushes the mountains and can actually pass people on the highway now!

average ~12-13mpg when cruising ~65, can get it up into the 14s if i am going sloooooow ~50-55

How you doing out there @ednelson100 ?

Edited by defrag4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2018 at 8:55 PM, danny dan said:

Prior to the 3.4 swap, that wire would have gone from the P terminal as you mentioned to the negative side of the coil. The tach should at least be moving even if not correct. There is a potentiometer on the back if I recall for adjustment. You will need to wire the 10k resistor if not using a 3.4 t100 cluster. All the pickups and runners used cable speedo from 89-91 and electronic speedo from 92-95 with the exception of the t100. I have a resistor I can mail you. 

Many thanks for the tips on the swap btw. I have about 900 miles on my 3.4 swap into my 92 Itasca. 13-15 mpg so far. Runs like a champ. Here is an under hood picture of mine as a reference to anyone considering the swap.DSC_1429.thumb.JPG.23640ef04e88fe6b21131e384498f68f.JPG

DSC_1431.JPG

 

thanks dan, i got a cluster out of a 93 T100 with 3vze, i didnt put the resistor in before hooking up the tach, so maybe I just burned out the tach ?

 

one of these days ill track down a new tach to swap in there and try again

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm doing great Mr. Defrag4,

Wow Alaska and back, that's great. I want to do that trip one day too.

The 3.4 motor has met all my expectations and has lived up to its reputation. It is now over 170K miles on the motor with only one minor issue. "see below". My MPG has improved to 15.5 - 16 MPG traveling at 55 after I moved the 2nd O2 sensor from where the exhaust shop had placed it before the first catalytic converter to after the first catalytic converter. I have never had to add any oil between changes and when it is time for an oil change the oil still looks clean, amazing. I plan to do a complete overhaul of the motor when I hit 600K miles, haha.

My minor issue. It starts fine when cold or short trips but occasionally after driving 2 or three hours when weather is hot, it only clicks, after a few more clicks it starts. I replaced starter with another used starter, checked all wires and grounds, replaced 3.0 80 amp fuse with 3.4 100 amp fuse, and wrapped starter in heat reflecting blanket. So now I have a brand new starter to install before my next trip. So cheap, $43 from Amazon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 11/22/2018 at 6:17 AM, ednelson100 said:

I'm doing great Mr. Defrag4,

Wow Alaska and back, that's great. I want to do that trip one day too.

The 3.4 motor has met all my expectations and has lived up to its reputation. It is now over 170K miles on the motor with only one minor issue. "see below". My MPG has improved to 15.5 - 16 MPG traveling at 55 after I moved the 2nd O2 sensor from where the exhaust shop had placed it before the first catalytic converter to after the first catalytic converter. I have never had to add any oil between changes and when it is time for an oil change the oil still looks clean, amazing. I plan to do a complete overhaul of the motor when I hit 600K miles, haha.

My minor issue. It starts fine when cold or short trips but occasionally after driving 2 or three hours when weather is hot, it only clicks, after a few more clicks it starts. I replaced starter with another used starter, checked all wires and grounds, replaced 3.0 80 amp fuse with 3.4 100 amp fuse, and wrapped starter in heat reflecting blanket. So now I have a brand new starter to install before my next trip. So cheap, $43 from Amazon.

good to hear my friend! hope you got that starter swapped out and have been cruisin trouble free!

I had my rad fan blow up on me and take out upper/lower rad hoses, take a big chunk out of the airbox, slice a hole in the battery, take a few belts out, and made some gnarly dents in the hood.

I was able to rig everything back up on the side of the road with some electrical tape and zipties, limped it down the road a few miles to a NAPA which was able to order every single part I needed, SAME DAY, on a Saturday in the middle of nowhere. Had her back  up and running good by dinnertime.

 

God bless old toyotas!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...