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ya buddy, even had her up to 90mph on some of the long downhills building speed to climb up the next hill, fun stuff! not recommended for the feint of heart... 

 

Ya was checking the fluid constantly, it smelled and seemed fine, which led me to believe the trans wasnt burning up clutches or anything, maybe wishful thinking... I also wasnt positive on where the trans lines should hook into the rad, I just hooked them up where they seemed to naturally lie.

Also doing some research I learned the Neutral start switch will send info to the ECU to let it know what gear the truck is in, aside from just handling the lock-out of starting outside of P/N, so will need to get that resolved as well, right now I just have it jumpered to disable it so I can still start the truck since it wont plug into the 3.0 trans.  I assume I could order a NSS from a 96 T100 and it should bolt up to the trans and plug into the 3.4 harness and allow me to fix that issue. ALso learned the NSS controls the PNRD2L dash indicator lights that tell you what gear you are currently in... was wondering why mine was not working.

 

Also still need to get that trans temperature sender resolved... and the rear o2 sensor... and clean up the wiring dangling around in the cab... haha one day I will be done with this project!

 

 

thanks for the tip on the AC washers, when I jumped it I didnt even get a click, It worked fine before the swap, so just hoping its the washers spacing it too far out and I didnt somehow bust the compressor during the swap

 

Edited by defrag4
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also I want to track down a stock intake setup, this aftermarket chromed out intake pipe looks good and takes up less space, but it is LOUD as hell when you are stomping on the gas.

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yes I noticed the loudness too, I might try my huge stock filter air box too.

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on another topic, if you have an Android phone, download the "Torque" OBDII app and pick up one of these wifi/bluetooth OBDII scanners

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1497970776&sr=8-11&keywords=OBD+scan

 

allows you to pull/clear codes, monitor your OBDII data in real time, check status of lots of things on the truck, pretty nifty. after years of jumpin odb1 stuff with a paperclip and counting the flashes of the check engine light, this is quite an upgrade!!

 

96030d1405195098-torque-app-torque-app-p

 

 

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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for reference, running ~75-80mph in my 1/2 busted truck I was pulling down 11-12mpg, which isnt so bad i guess, hope to see better once i get her dialed in and slow the hell down

Edited by defrag4
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1 hour ago, defrag4 said:

on another topic, if you have an Android phone, download the "Torque" OBDII app and pick up one of these wifi/bluetooth OBDII scanners

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1497970776&sr=8-11&keywords=OBD+scan

 

allows you to pull/clear codes, monitor your OBDII data in real time, check status of lots of things on the truck, pretty nifty. after years of jumpin odb1 stuff with a paperclip and counting the flashes of the check engine light, this is quite an upgrade!!

Along the lines of this:-

 

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My transmission seemed to be hotter than it used to get cause my floorboard was hot. I checked and sure enough I did have the cooling lines wrong at the radiator.

This is correct:

Image result for toyota 5vze transmission cooling flow direction

The front transmission line goes to the radiator and the return line goes to the back of the transmission.

Hoping it will make a difference.

Trying to use the 3.0 Cruise Control leaving it right where it was at on the drivers side. It is getting a little crowded on the passenger side.

The cable is too short but from what I have read a cable from a 22E 3.0 is longer and will work but I have not been able to find one yet.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey James,

  Haven't heard from you for awhile.

How did your transmission problem come out?

Were you ever able to go back to the stock air filter?  I tried but my T100 big box air filter is too high and hits the hood.

Going to post a summary of my swap soon for anyone interested but I think we are the only two Toyota motorhome owners interested in doing this for right now.

Ed

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  • 4 months later...
On 7/19/2017 at 6:38 PM, ednelson100 said:

Hey James,

  Haven't heard from you for awhile.

How did your transmission problem come out?

Were you ever able to go back to the stock air filter?  I tried but my T100 big box air filter is too high and hits the hood.

Going to post a summary of my swap soon for anyone interested but I think we are the only two Toyota motorhome owners interested in doing this for right now.

Ed

hey ed! long time no see, I battled that trans issue for a while, eventually dropped the pan and replaced all the shifting solenoids, problem went away! 

 

then came back the next day.... :(

started to dig back into it and noticed some of the wiring leading back to the trans had melted due to the exhaust heat, I started pulling apart the melted harness and found a myriad of wires that had melted their sheating off and were shorting each other out, I separated out each wire, cleaned them up, and then electrical taped them up. I will eventually go back and try to get some actually heatshrink on them.

 

Took her out on the road and she shifted like a dream!

have not been using the old girl very much lately, still need to fix her AC, get an actual neutral start switch installed instead of just having it jumped, and get the rear o2 sensor installed.

that being said, I have put ~2500 miles on her and she has been great, love the power!!!

 

MPG is still pretty disappointing, getting ~11-13, but I am flying down the highway at 75mph B)

 

will be interested to see if her MPG improves once I get the rear o2 sensor installed and get off these damn highways, backroads are calling my name, should be on the move again in Jan

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i am also still running the aftermarket intake, its LOUDDDDDDDDD, will be trying to track down a replacement that fits under the hood, good to know the stock t100 box wont work, wonder if a 4runner/pickup has a different setup

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Nice to hear from you James,

I thought maybe you sold your Toy and moved on.

I have put 6,000 miles on mine now and  am very pleased. I get a consistent 13.5MPG city and I believe 14-15 highway. Could not get a good reading for a long time because my odometer was not accurate. You may recall I took the transmission out of the T100 donor and the speedometer and odometer were always high until I finally opened the transmission tail and swapped the speedometer shaft gear with the 3.0 gear. Here is the intake filter you should look for, fit perfectly and is so quiet now.

This came off of a 1997 4Runner.

5a386b2c8035d_AirFilter.JPG.cb074da02b91d06ef28a5b81e4fa2cbd.JPG

I am retiring from work on December 31st and will be in Quartzsite, AZ for the giant RV rally on January 19.

 Planning to go to Winter Haven, Florida in February.

Maybe one of these days we can meet up somewhere?

Ed

 

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I was speaking with a Toy owner the other day and she is planning on having a mechanic do the swap for her and had some questions.

I figure it was time I posted a brief summary of my swap for anyone interested.

Every motor swap is different but this is how I did mine. After doing a lot of internet research I concluded that the easiest and cheapest way to DIY was to purchase an entire donor Toyota T100 PU. That way you have a complete set of spare parts.

   I found a damaged 1997 T100 from an online insurance auction and used that for a donor vehicle. I did all the work myself except for the exhaust pipe re-routing. The hardest part was the wiring because I was just so unfamiliar with it, but after doing more internet research, getting all of the correct wiring diagrams printed out, and working on it for two weeks it started getting easier and easier. To complete the entire swap took me around two months while still working a full time job. I did not find this swap that hard but very time consuming. There were not that many good posts to rely on and some posts from users who did their swap with 4Runners actually steered me in the wrong direction. Toyota Motor Home swap is different from a 4Runner swap.

I would be happy to assist anyone wishing to attempt this by answering all questions posted.

 

Total cost of swap:

$1100 but after selling all of the leftover parts it was $0.

 

BENEFITS:

More power and better performance

More reliability, with the 5VZE being one of the best engines Toyota ever produced

Improved gas mileage, I am getting 14-16 MPG highway, compared to 10 from my old sick 3.0

Elimination of ECT button, ( Extra power appears to be built in and when you need extra power like climbing a hill it kicks in automatically)

OBDI II receptacle for reading “Check Engine” codes

Easier to work on motor with more engine compartment space

 

Taken From 5VZE 3.4:

Engine

Transmission

Motor/Transmission Wire Harness

Battery Harness

ECU

E4(A) ECU Body Harness Female Connector

Alternator

Instrument Panel

VPS / VSS Sensors

OBDI II receptacle assembly

OBDI II 7.5A Fuse holder assembly

Cooling Fan

Battery Tray (Modified)

Alternator Bracket (Modified)

02 Sensors

Exhaust crossover pipe (modified)

Oil pan baffle (Modified)

 

Taken From Old 3VZE 3.0:

C2 Body Harness Female Connector

Motor Mounts

Oil Pan

Oil pan oil intake tube

A/C Compressor

Charcoal Canister

Cruise Control ASSY.

Radiator

Bottom radiator Hose

Alternator Voltage Regulator

Transmission speedometer shaft gear

 

Other:

From junk yard - A/C pulley from Jeep Cherokee (Other vehicles will have it too)

From junk yard - 4 Foot Cruise Control Cable (modified on both ends)

From junk yard - Air filter ASSY from 1997 4Runner

From Autozone - Top radiator hose Dayco PN # 71695 Length C

From Autozone - Alternator Belt NAPA PN # 25-040405

Edited by ednelson100
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On 12/18/2017 at 8:38 PM, ednelson100 said:

Nice to hear from you James,

I thought maybe you sold your Toy and moved on.

I have put 6,000 miles on mine now and  am very pleased. I get a consistent 13.5MPG city and I believe 14-15 highway. Could not get a good reading for a long time because my odometer was not accurate. You may recall I took the transmission out of the T100 donor and the speedometer and odometer were always high until I finally opened the transmission tail and swapped the speedometer shaft gear with the 3.0 gear. Here is the intake filter you should look for, fit perfectly and is so quiet now.

This came off of a 1997 4Runner.

5a386b2c8035d_AirFilter.JPG.cb074da02b91d06ef28a5b81e4fa2cbd.JPG

I am retiring from work on December 31st and will be in Quartzsite, AZ for the giant RV rally on January 19.

 Planning to go to Winter Haven, Florida in February.

Maybe one of these days we can meet up somewhere?

Ed

 

awesome Ed! Glad to hear you are out enjoying your labors, congrats on retiring, 1 more week till freeeeedom!

We are up in North Carolina till end of Jan then headed to Mississippi for a month or so to help my sis-in-law with some new property she bought there, after that we are back on the road. West bound! Eventually turning north towards Alaska once the winter weather breaks.

I will be scouring the junkyards of Mississippi here in a few weeks for some of the bits to finally get this girl completed. Looks like a perfect fit on that 97 4runner airbox, thanks!!

 

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On 12/18/2017 at 9:13 PM, ednelson100 said:

I was speaking with a Toy owner the other day and she is planning on having a mechanic do the swap for her and had some questions.

I figure it was time I posted a brief summary of my swap for anyone interested.

Every motor swap is different but this is how I did mine. After doing a lot of internet research I concluded that the easiest and cheapest way to DIY was to purchase an entire donor Toyota T100 PU. That way you have a complete set of spare parts.

   I found a damaged 1997 T100 from an online insurance auction and used that for a donor vehicle. I did all the work myself except for the exhaust pipe re-routing. The hardest part was the wiring because I was just so unfamiliar with it, but after doing more internet research, getting all of the correct wiring diagrams printed out, and working on it for two weeks it started getting easier and easier. To complete the entire swap took me around two months while still working a full time job. I did not find this swap that hard but very time consuming. There were not that many good posts to rely on and some posts from users who did their swap with 4Runners actually steered me in the wrong direction. Toyota Motor Home swap is different from a 4Runner swap.

I would be happy to assist anyone wishing to attempt this by answering all questions posted.

 

Total cost of swap:

$1100 (After selling what is left of the T100 then it would come to around $900)

 

BENEFITS:

More power and better performance

More reliability, with the 5VZE being one of the best engines Toyota ever produced

Improved gas mileage, I am getting 14-16 MPG highway, compared to 10 from my old sick 3.0

Elimination of ECT button, ( Extra power appears to be built in and when you need extra power like climbing a hill it kicks in automatically)

OBDI II receptacle for reading “Check Engine” codes

Easier to work on motor with more engine compartment space

 

Taken From 5VZE 3.4:

Motor

Transmission

Motor/Transmission Wire Harness

Battery Harness

ECU

E4(A) ECU Body Harness Female Connector

Alternator

Instrument Panel

VPS / VSS Sensors

OBDI II receptacle assembly

OBDI II 7.5A Fuse holder assembly

Cooling Fan

Battery Tray (Modified)

Alternator Bracket (Modified)

02 Sensors

 

Taken From Old 3VZE 3.0:

C2 Body Harness Female Connector

Motor Mounts

Oil Pan

A/C Compressor

Charcoal Canister

Cruise Control ASSY.

Radiator

Bottom radiator Hose

Alternator Voltage Regulator

Transmission speedometer shaft gear

 

Other:

From junk yard - A/C pulley from Jeep Cherokee (Other vehicles will have it too)

From junk yard - 4 Foot Cruise Control Cable (modified on both ends)

From junk yard - Air filter ASSY from 1997 4Runner

From Autozone - Top radiator hose Dayco PN # 71695 Length C

From Autozone - Alternator Belt NAPA PN # 25-040405

great info in here Ed!! Hopefully help some others in the future, 100% agree on trying to buy the full truck, I spent wayyyy to much on ebay buying random bits that i could have just scavenged if I had a donor truck

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  • 2 weeks later...

FYI I just spoke to Mike from Offroad Solutions (they have lots of parts to help with the swap) and he just told  me they recently made a custom linkage set for the RV swap to get around the issue with the exhaust banging into the linkage, its not on their website yet but if you give them a call they might be able to hook you up!

tell them james with 92 RV sent ya!

http://www.offroadsolutions.com/contact-ors/

 

also said they had a few other solutions regarding the alternator bracket and a few other gotchas the RVs run into with the 3.4 swap

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    I do not know about those FB experts but I can attest that it is NOT "Super Simple" well maybe super simple if you just drive it to a shop and pay them $4500 to do it for you, come to think of it that would be pretty simple, wouldn't it Derek? haha. But if you want to DIY, be prepared for a pretty big job and for your RV to be down for a month or two and several hurdles you need to jump over along the way. I know I actually dropped the motor in and took it back out I think 4 times for various issues. But I love doing this so it was not work at all, but fun for me. If I do another one it will sure be a lot simpler than this first one was (learned a lot).

Ed

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So Ed, way back you mentioned that you swapped the instrument cluster.  I'm thinking about putting in one from an SR5 that has a tach and more gauges.  Watched a decent video about it on youtube.  Anything more I should know?  

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SR5 4runner cluster swap is a direct swap. But prndl will be lost if you have an automatic tranny. Must Use The Cable Speedo Cluster of yours is cable. Also Must Swap Oil Sender units Before Or You Will Fry The New Oil Pressure Guage.  The t100 Cluster Has The Prndl, and May Also Be A Direct Swap, But Not Sure. Might Check Yotatech Forums For More Info.

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In my case, I hunted all over the midwest looking for a reasonably priced (3.0-based) Toyhome that was a fixer and (not-flooded out).  I already had the motor/harness/computer and most accessories already purchased.  I also own a 97 4-Runner (driver) so I have a vehicle to compare to.  I luckily picked up the RV with a blown head gasket about a year ago within 40 miles from my house.  A buddy flat-bedded it to my yard.  I'm not in a hurry to get the swap done, just want to do everything right so I don't deal with issues later when I put it on the road.  I was concerned about custom-made "rotting out" fabbed crossovers.  That would be a bummer if your 1,000 miles from home and the crossover fails mounted in the back of the engine (barking all the way home).  I picked up mine (1990) $1300.  I've swapped about a dozen or more engines on old mopars/chevs. over the years when I was a kid.  This swap is definitely more than a drop-in.  My brother got me hooked on Toyotas years ago when he gave me his 94 4-Runner and I drove it for 80,000 more miles after doing a HG repair.  I was intending to do the 3.4 swap on the 4 runner but switched direction to the Toyhome.  

I worked for an RV dealer in the late 80's and we sold several of the 4-banger Escapers due to their price point.  As I recall, I drove one 50 miles to a trade show in Green Bay when they were new with my foot to the floor doing 55 MPH.  I'm hoping the 3.4 can at least keep up with traffic on flat land.  13-14 MPG would be fine with me.  My '97 454 Suburban gets 10 MPG on flat-land but I can't comfortably sleep in it.

 

Edited by danpty
typo
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danpty-I don't know what was wrong with your late 80's 4 cylinder Escapers but I own an 88 Escaper with a 22Re.  I can easily maintain 55 mph on flat ground and I have never put my foot to the floor.  I live in southwestern Wisconsin where we have some pretty steep hills.  They may be only 500 feet high but they are steep and crooked.  By downshifting and keeping the rpm's up, I can maintain 45 mph on even the steepest ones.  While driving in the Rockies, I frequently top the hills in second gear doing 4500 rpm's doing 45 mph.  

I drive my RV like it has a stick and never use OD.  The RV is not fast but I am able to get around at a reasonable speed.  Does and extra 15 hp really make much difference in a 6000 pound vehicle?

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I agree with Bob! He basically taught me how to drive the 22RE.....shift a lot. I can easily cruise @ 65 on flat ground! 

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On ‎1‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 11:15 PM, Kim G said:

So Ed, way back you mentioned that you swapped the instrument cluster.  I'm thinking about putting in one from an SR5 that has a tach and more gauges.  Watched a decent video about it on youtube.  Anything more I should know?  

Kim,  Here is where I got my original info. on this upgrade. Rolling the odometer to correct reading was very tricky but can be done, just make sure you first take close up pictures before you disassemble the odometer if you choose to do that part of it.

toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/4058-instrument-cluster-swap/

If you solder these two connectors together 4WD will then light when ECT button is pressed.

IMG_0453.JPG.3ea08ee307c13fc3d4c6d621d2824a0e.JPG

Open front of instrument panel, and cut out 4WD and tape ECT in its place and you have your ECT light back.

IMG_0452.JPG.8861bca7643b799642ff584609f41b2b.JPG

On ‎1‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 7:13 AM, danpty said:

"I'm hoping the 3.4 can at least keep up with traffic on flat land.  13-14 MPG would be fine with me. "

It can, Just ask Mr. Speed.....James who has had it well over 90MPH after his swap. Acceleration is greatly improved also.

Ed

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Does an extra 15 hp really make much difference in a 6000 pound vehicle?

1988 22RE = +-115hp

1990 3VZ = +- 150hp

2000 5Z = +- 190hp

I think the 5Z motor I'm putting in is going to be more than a 15hp increase over the 22RE.  Maybe I was going against the wind.  I was following several Class A El dorados and Honeys with big blocks.  Never a stick in the Escapers back then only automatics.  I debated dropping a spare R150 into my Toyhome but thought I would try it with the Automatic at first.  I prefer a stick but many people do not.

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with the 3.4 swap i can haul butt and definitely keep up with any traffic, even on big mountain climbs, and no more having to dick with forcing it into L or 2 to try and climb the grades, just hammer down and she has enough to juice to get up and over, i have spent the past 6 months traveling all over the Smoky mountain range

Looking forward to getting out to the rockies and sierras to put her up against some steeper grades

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Also finally welded in the secondary o2 bung past the cats and now have eliminated one more check engine light!

My new T100 neutral start sensor just arrived that will replace the NSS on the 3vze trans, allowing me to hook up the 3.4 harness to it and restore my PRNDL indicator and reverse lights! that will be another CEL defeated

Only one that will remain is the trans temp sender, still havent figured out a solution for that yet, MIke from ORS says he is working on it, so if my lazy butt lags enough maybe he will get it figured out before I do :P

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I have'nt got around to fabbing up my 2nd crossover to passenger side drop yet.  The '96 T100 computer just arrived yesterday.  Good info on getting rid of CELs that I can install before putting mine on the road.  It's been in the teens lately here in Southern MO.  Another concern I've had is the prior owner of the RV towed it around 80 miles without dropping the driveshaft when he blew the HG.  I've done alot of reading on the Toyota websites trying to determine if he trashed the rear bearings in the transmission in the process.  Some trannys will trash the bearings, some will not.  Does anyone know if the A340E would be damaged in this manner?  You can often find these RVs as fixers on CL, but if someone does'nt drop the driveshaft when/if they tow them home, you could end up fixing the HG problem and then be dealing with a trans problem thereafter.

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Yes there is a real good chance there is trans damage tail stock bushing and possible governor bore maybe more, transmissions haven't had rear pumps in decades.

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Thanks for the feedback.  This does put me in a little quandary.  I've debated on converting the RV to a R150F from my '94 4 Runner but it's a 4X4 with a different tail-shaft.  Trying to use what I have.  I have the whole rig so plumbing, pedals, master cyl. etc. is already covered.  I did a manual conversion on my '95 Stealth a couple years back (no regrets at all).  The time to do this would be while I have the engine out.  I've read on doing the conversion on 4 Runners.  Finding out the tranny was shot after I put the engine in would be more of a pain later.

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does she still run with the blown HG? fire her up and take her around the block, see how she feels

Definelty not good to flat tow it as the trans gets no fluid unless the truck is running, but have heard of others doing the same on accident for short distances and they came out OK, 

though I would love to see a 3.4 swapped RV with a 5-spd!

 

Edited by defrag4
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No, I could'nt get it to start once my buddy flat bedded it to my house.  Prior owner ran it so hot trying to get it home he blew antifreeze/stop leak all the way back to the rear end.  I did'nt bother messing with the 3.0 when I bought it because I already had the parts to do a 3.4 conversion to a 2nd gen 4 runner.  I already dropped in the 3.4 when I discovered the complications around the crossover shift linkage.  If there's still life left in the A340E great.  I guess I'll wire up to the T100 2WD computer.  I hope the tranny made the trip or I'll be posting up a the MT conversion after the motor is dropped in.  It's a pain to drill the hole for the Master cylinder, plumb the slave cylinder etc. after the 3.4's dropped in.  I was looking at the AT trans mount and figured it would have to be cut out and MT mount installed to do a MT conversion, then deal with the drive shaft issues if necessary.  I guess move on with what I have and roll the dice.  I would'nt mind the 5 speed, to give me better control of the trans when going through the hills, and general reliability.  I have had high mileage AT trans. leave me stranded 1000 miles from home before, never with a MT.  Manuals and clutches normally warn you long before they fail.

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