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I am pulling my 3.0 VZE motor because of spun bearing and numerous other issues.

Searching Craigs list there are so many good 3.4 5VZE's for sale, no 3.0 3VZE's in my area.

My first choice is to replace with a 3.4. Yes, I see a lot on the internet about this with 4Runners, but has anyone actually done it themselves on a Toyota motor home?

I think I am most worried about the wiring issues.

I also see suggestions about Buick 3.8 for replacement. I am not really looking for more power, just reliability.

I am not interested in a shop doing it.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ed

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1 hour ago, MaineErik said:

Wow dropping from 12 to 9 mpg with the swap? And only being able to cruise at 55mph? He must always go uphill,I can cruise pretty easily in mine at 70 and that was on 5 cylinders!

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I can't get my highlite to work on my tablet. Do a search for superchiem. Lots of photos.

Home now here is the thread

 

Edited by WME
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5 hours ago, redskinman said:

Wow dropping from 12 to 9 mpg with the swap? And only being able to cruise at 55mph? He must always go uphill,I can cruise pretty easily in mine at 70 and that was on 5 cylinders!

He says right on his blog that his oxygen sensors aren't hooked up. Would completely explain not enough power and poor mileage.

Linda S

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2 hours ago, linda s said:

He says right on his blog that his oxygen sensors aren't hooked up. Would completely explain not enough power and poor mileage.

Linda S

Yes I read that,but then he goes on to write this:

"While I would definitely recommend this 3.0 to 3.4 engine swap, if I would have known the gas mileage was going to drop 4 mpg instead of increase 4 mpg, I might have just swapped a V8 engine in its place instead of the 3.4 V6.  I still feel like there is not enough power as I would like, so the next upgrade I will make is adding a Toyota Supercharger to the 3.4 to give a significant horsepower increase and truly get me up to highway speeds (65 mph)."

So why write that,I'm confused,he needs to explain why the O2 sensors arent hooked up and then test gas mileage.

And what about cruising at 55,does O2 sensors not hooked up explain that? I'm not being a smartass,I honestly dont know

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Single wheels on the back. Are those real tall tires on Main Eriks rig?

Edited by darrel
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to Redskinman Yes he's asking if the O2 sensors could be the cause. I think they are. The newer the engine the more computer dependent they are and the computer isn't getting the signal it needs for fuel and all kinds of other things. Since Timmy didn't know that I'm guessing he might have made some other mistakes. He belongs to this site and got some help when he first bought his rig. It was misrepresented and had a ton of problems. A well done 3.4 swap will give you more power and as good or better mileage

Linda S

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On 2017-04-08 at 0:42 AM, linda s said:

to Redskinman Yes he's asking if the O2 sensors could be the cause. I think they are. The newer the engine the more computer dependent they are and the computer isn't getting the signal it needs for fuel and all kinds of other things. Since Timmy didn't know that I'm guessing he might have made some other mistakes. He belongs to this site and got some help when he first bought his rig. It was misrepresented and had a ton of problems. A well done 3.4 swap will give you more power and as good or better mileage

Linda S

Ok, but he's kinda misrepresenting the swap saying he would have dropped in a V-8 if he would have known it was going to drop his mpg by 4. Do you know if he ever got the O2 sensors figured out? And would the O2 sensors not being hooked up rob it of power? Like I said, he's either always driving uphill or his old V-6 ran terrible also because also like I said I could cruise at 70 when I had the misfire and was only firing on 5 cyls.

 

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Like I said his original engine was toast. He had to put a new engine in anyway. Go unplug your O2 sensor and see what it does. If his aren't even hooked up I amazed it runs at all. Sweet kid but not a mechanic. You know those crazy Alaska people. Insist on doing everything themselves cause they are so rugged. Misrepresentation and mistaken are two completely different things

Linda S

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On 2017-04-08 at 11:50 AM, linda s said:

Like I said his original engine was toast. He had to put a new engine in anyway. Go unplug your O2 sensor and see what it does. If his aren't even hooked up I amazed it runs at all. Sweet kid but not a mechanic. You know those crazy Alaska people. Insist on doing everything themselves cause they are so rugged. Misrepresentation and mistaken are two completely different things

Linda S

Yes Linda you are correct about that, mistaken would probably have been a better choice of words. His brain would probably be good to pick on how not to do it, he might not be able to tell you how to do it right, but he could tell you what mistakes to avoid.

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58f1496deffe9_MotorOut.JPG.0e23ce2f1e79c880e8d057c5a065fbd5.JPG

Thank you all for your suggestions and links.

UPDATE:

Motor is out and I am searching up to 600 mile radius from San Antonio for a wrecked T100 / 3.4 with under 200K miles to purchase. Not easy to find. Anyone know where I could find one? Currently searching Craig's list and Insurance online auctions.

After taking off the oil pan it was obvious that number 3 and 4 crankshaft bearings had spun and this 3.0 motor with only 116K miles is history.

Ed

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Why a T100.

Linda S

There's like a ton near you

Dealer Info Dist
mile
1997
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
3.4L/ENGINE ASSM     101096 $Call Nica Motors, Inc. USA-TX(San-Antonio) Request_Quote 1-877-788-6888 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
34
1998
Engine Assembly
Toyota Tacoma
AT,RWD 0 A st0859 $Call National Truck Salvage USA-TX(San-Antonio) Request_Quote 1-210-623-2000 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
34
1997
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
9624_254_01_thumb.jpgLOCAL SALE ONLY 0 A 16137 $500 A1 - Salvage USA-TX(San-Antonio) Request_Quote 210-623-1155 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
34
1996
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
3.4L 5VZFE *CORE ONLY*,STOCK NO. 079169025     079169025 $100 Big 4 Auto Parts USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 512-282-4546 / 800/ Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
60
1998
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
5341_3980_01_thumb.jpg3..4,AOD,06-98,MFI,RWD 253,485 C DA001 $1000 Special Truck & Auto Salvage USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 512-243-1015 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
67
1996
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
1253_23408_01_thumb.jpg      TT4084 $1250 Browning Auto Parts - KOLT USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 1-800-338-5191 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
69
1999
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
1253_23657_01_thumb.jpg3.4L,AOD,EFI,4X4,NTS     TT1120 $1250 Browning Auto Parts - KOLT USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 1-800-338-5191 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
69
1997
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
2AF236DFF54E49F086D9EA2043B9F016001_thumb.jpgTESTED GOOD     26548 $Call Austin Used Auto Parts USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 512.926.2002 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
75
1998
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
GM TESTED 218,000 C 77156 $Call Austin Used Auto Parts USA-TX(Austin) Request_Quote 512.926.2002 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
75
1996
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
3.4L,AOD,12-95,RWD,CORE PARTS ONLY     J00765 $Call Burnet Auto Salvage KOLT USA-TX(Burnet) E-mail 1-800-375-6340 76
1995
Engine Assembly
Toyota T100
3.4L (VIN V, 4th digit, 5VZFE engine, 6 cyl),C-AOD,3.4L,EFI,06/95-CHECK- 0MI     EE0055 $Call Fidel's Auto Salvage Inc. USA-TX(Cedar-Creek) Request_Quote 512-303-7677 / 512-303-2000 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
78
1997
Engine Assembly
Toyota 4Runner
123K, WHITE-TAN 123,365 A 93053 $1200 B and T Salvage USA-TX(Killeen) E-mail 1-254-699-1951
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Thanks Linda,

  Because after researching I have discovered the easiest upgrade from 3.0 to 3.4 is to is to swap engine, transmission, wiring harness, ECU, and misc. from a T100 automatic, 2wheel drive.

Yes there are plenty of 3.4 engines but my first choice is to purchase an entire T100 donor vehicle.

Just look at all the issues if trying to swap engine only from a 4Runner.

https://www.yotatech.com/f160/superchiems-toyota-rv-5vz-swap-243241/

I can do it myself but I do not think I am not as good as Superchiem.

Compare all those issues to the very few Shoprat had:

Ed

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Thank You Derek,

I have been following that site and a few other auction sites too.

There are a couple good T100s coming up and I will be patient for a couple weeks and then may even lower my standards further. One option would be to buy a T100 with a very high mileage or no motor for dirt cheap and then purchase a really good 3.4 motor for another $800.

A 1996 running T100 came on Craigs list (Houston) yesterday for $1100 OBO and sold within an hour. It was gone before I could find out the mileage.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I found my donor vehicle on https://erepairables.com/ for around $1000. Just had to drive 600 miles to pick it up in Mobile AL.

Luckily it appears well maintained and the damage was mostly to the driver side wheel-well/fender area and frame bent.

1997 T100 with158K miles

It started right up after I removed the smashed up radiator. Compression is good on all cylinders.

Will be lifting motor out this weekend.

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hey there, was curious if you had plans for the instrument cluster from your t-100 donor vehicle. i was contemplating a swap for my 92 winnie. the t-100 cluster is what i would need to facilitate swap. joe from dover.

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yes, I already had done that last year so I will have an extra one for sale and I can give you instructions on how to make the ECT light display properly and adjust the odometer to read properly too after you swap it.

What I most like about the T100 instrument panel is having that trip counter, I use that all the time.

Stand by, kind of busy with this swap right now.

Ed

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  • 2 weeks later...

hey Ed, I am actually in the process of doing this exact same swap, I have a 92 Itasca with the 3VZE, my donor is a 1996 T100 2wd automatic

spent a long time waiting on parts and rebuilding the 3.4, finally starting to drop it in now.

 

So far have discovered the 2wd T100 oil pan will not fit, it bangs on the 2wd crossover between the lower control arms.  An issue that 4x4 guys dont have to worry about, so i havent seen it mentioned much.

So I need to swap the pan over from the 3vze, got it yanked off today and cleaned up, looks like it will fit if I move the 3vze oil pickup oil as well, I am going to need to modify the 3.4 oil baffle to fit the 3.0L pickup though.

Hows it going on your end??? Not many others doing 2WD Toy motorhome swaps, so great to share knowledge with a fellow madman!

Edited by defrag4
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It is coming along but slow but then I always do everything slow.

I did not rebuild my motor, it appeared to be in great shape already. When I pulled off the timing cover already had new water pump, timing belt, tensioners, etc. Compression was 180-190 in all cylinders. Just changed the rear oil seal and cleaned everything.

Yep, I discovered the same thing about the oil pan, I thought you could use the T100 oil pan but not so.

Motor and trans are installed.

Tried to cutup my crossover pipe and come out drivers side and that did not work but since I had it cut up already it was easy to rotate it so it would come right between the frame and transmission and fit just right after re-welding.

Have not figured out quite how to modify the alternator bracket yet so putting the transmission tube back in right now and air compressor and power steering reservoir today.

Wanted to do something simpler than this for the bracket:

https://www.yotatech.com/f160/superchiems-toyota-rv-5vz-swap-243241/index3.html

Great to hear from you let's keep in touch, frequently, ok? Till we are both finished with this fun project.

Ed

 

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hey ed! glad to hear you got your motor in, I am almost ready.

 

Got the 3vze oil pan and pickup swapped over. I couldn't figure out how to get the 3vze baffle moved over but read most people just hack up the 3.4L baffle and use that, so that's what I did as well

Discovered today that the water pump I installed during my rebuild has an output for an oil cooler, which apparently the 2wd T100 does not have. Tried to take the oil cooler off the 3VZE and swap it over but its hitting the motor mounts. I decided I am just going to plug the outlet with hose and cap for now.

installing spark plugs now, going to try and drop this beast in tomorrow!

I am worried about the exhaust hitting the shifting linkage, I got a custom built cross-over, but the guy said he had never seen it installed on the 2wd with column shifter linkage, so we shall cross that bridge tomorrow when we get there

 

 

 

 

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Some pics of the T100 pan vs 3VZE pan and modified baffle

 

yep, for anyone else that runs into this issue.

Left is T100 2wd pan, right is the 3vze 2wd pan

you can see the small dip here in the pan which is needed to clear the crossmember


18558981_1397771016982782_30084681545167

and with the 3VZE pan on the 3.4L motor, the pickup will not clear the pan. So I had to take the 3VZE pickup and swap it over. But like you say the pickup hits the baffle, so needed to cut a hole in the 3.4L baffle, then you can access a bolt hole and secure it up there.

The second leg of the 3VZE pickup does not have a bolt hole on my 96 T100 3.4 to bolt up too, so I just chopped it off, seems fairly secure still so I think I will be fine.

You can see here with the baffle removed where the 3VZE pickup can bolt up, the Red square has a bolt hole, the yellow leg does not and needs to be removed.

519PuPM.png


Cut a hole in the 3.4L baffle with a cutoff wheel and now we can bolt up the 3vze pickup to the 3.4 block

18620337_10154401118542117_8757923219344

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I havent decided what to do about my alternator bracket yet either, I have read about a few guys who just chopped the end off the 3.4 bracket and then used a shorter belt, let me try to find some links for you.

here we go, post #47

https://www.yotatech.com/f160/toyota-motorhome-3-0-swap-237494/index3.html

 

Quote

The mechanical stuff was completed today: the alternator did hit the steering box and we fixed that problem by modifying the swing bracket and getting a shorter belt. It's still close, but the belt is tight and there is at least 3/8 inch of travel left.

 

 

another guys solution - 

dayco belt # 5040400, use the 3.0 lower bracket and extend the slot to the bend and get rid of the adjuster bolt. The belt is still a pain to get on but I can stuff my hand in between the rag joint and alt.

 

 

other guys just lop the end off the bracket completely and use a prybar to get the belt in place, then lock it down with nut/bolt

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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so is your crossover exhaust coming down on the pass side or the drivers side now? I read about someone who was able to get the stock 3.4L crossover pipe to fit on the pass side by heating it up and bending it enough to clear the frame.

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Not sure where you got your crossover pipe but hitting the linkage was the problem I had trying to make my own crossover.

I then contacted toyonlyswaps and they said:

cliff@toyonlyswaps.com
"We do not have a crossover pipe that will work with column shift vehicles. In the past we modify a stock late style pipe and have it drop on the passenger side, from there it has to be piped in and cross over under the trans bell housing, and back into your current exhaust."
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I did not try the heat and bend method since I already had my crossover cut up.

I tried to follow these instructions but could not get it to miss the shift linkage.

https://www.yotatech.com/f160/build-your-own-3-4-crossover-pipe-138902/

So went back to the passenger side. For the exhaust to miss the frame on the passenger side you would only need one cut on the pipe, one cut on the header fitting weld, and one cut on the drop down fitting flange weld.

You could then twist and set it just the way you want it and re-weld.

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