ednelson100 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 I can't find that connector on my motors. The air compressor fix did not work, read this: https://www.yotatech.com/f160/c-doesnt-line-up-289898/ going to look for a 1997 Jeep Cherokee pulley tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 oof sorry Ed, I was going to post that same thread just a few mins ago, I wonder if you need the Mopar clutch face as well or if the Toyota face will mate up? I found this ebay listing, looks like Chrysler used the same AC pulley on lots of years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AC-COMPRESSOR-CLUTCH-PULLEY-1993-2006-DODGE-CHRYSLER-JEEP-PLYMOUTH-4720834-/281805113974?fits=Year%3A1997|Make%3AJeep|Model%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item419ce4ca76:g:pGwAAOSwHjNV~r27&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 Oh that's good info, should find something at the junk yard tomorrow. Since I have my compressor apart for the third time I think I will take some of it with me to make sure it fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 let me know how it works out! Im over here soldering up my starter signal wire, think I finally have a decent understanding of how the battery harness/alternator harness will go together, hopefully get that knocked out tomorrow along with some more of the wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Took a screenshot of the Chrysler pulley applications for future reference if the ebay listing goes down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 You never did tell me where you live? I want to know the details on the wiring when you are finished. Let me tackle the AC compressor issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) im down in Deltona, FL currently (just outside of Orlando), doing the swap in my parents driveway, I work remote and travel full-time w my wife/dog when I am not swapping out motors like some sort of crazy person. Once we get this pig back on the road we are going to be headed up to the smokies of North Carolina for a bit, too damn hot down here Edited May 28, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 some other years that I believe used the same pulley DODGE DAKOTA 1994-2001 DODGE DURANGO 1998-2001 DODGE RAM 1500 PICKUP 1994-2002 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 1994-2002 DODGE RAM 3500 PICKUP 1994-2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE 1993-1998 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 ha I here you, going to Ruidoso, NM for me, 97 in San Antonio today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) ya buddy, your no stranger to the heat either. Not sure if this will be much use to you since it pertains mostly to using the ORS conversion harness, but there are also some good diagrams on the EVAP/VSVs and what not in here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q74xx7yr09zikxi/ORS Wiring Harness INstructions.pdf?dl=0 Edited May 28, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Hah! And you guys were worried about hooking the heater up backwards? Wish I could tell you that doing so would convert it to A/C! But no such luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Working on mounting up my EVAP today, when I got my motor it did not include an EVAP, so I searched around the junkyard and found one out of a 97 T100. It looks like the canister I have from the 97 T100 is way to tall to mount in the drivers side where everyone else seems to mount it, guess the early T100s had a different box, looking at the pics other peoples are much squatter than mine. In fact, doing some googling I am not sure that the 96 T100 even used this style of EVAP, its possibly they used the can style. I am going to cannibalize the VSVs off of it and try this Evolta mod to run the 3.0 evap canister for the time being, if it starts to throw codes I guess I will have to track down a later year EVAP. https://www.yotatech.com/f160/elvotas-3-4-swap-128285/index4.html#post50685251 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 On my 1997 T100 it does not even have a canister but a huge square evaporator. My 1995 has the bigger round canister you mentioned. BTW, The first vehicle I came upon in the junk yard was a 1997 Grand Cherokee, pulley came right off and it worked just like the article said for the compressor. The only I had to do was add an extra spacing washer so that it would turn freely when clutch is not engaged. All of my belts are in but the power steering pulley does not look aligned so taking a look at that now. Maybe I don't have it in right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 nice! how much they charge you for the pulley? ill have to track down a pick and pull, the yard i have been going too wont let you take random parts off without buying the whole unit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 26 minutes ago, defrag4 said: nice! how much they charge you for the pulley? ill have to track down a pick and pull, the yard i have been going too wont let you take random parts off without buying the whole unit have you tried this place. very close to Deltona Linda S https://www.yellowpages.com/deland-fl/mip/deland-u-pull-it-5129124?lid=5129124 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, linda s said: have you tried this place. very close to Deltona Linda S https://www.yellowpages.com/deland-fl/mip/deland-u-pull-it-5129124?lid=5129124 Thanks Linda, I'll check it out, probably closed tomorrow. Got plenty of projects to work on in the meantime! Got the tranny harness wired up today, all the 3.4 tranny plugs fit right into the 3.0 RV transmission aside from the neutral start plug (and o2 sensors), will have to chop the neutral start plug one off the 3.0 harness and splice it in. Ordered 2 new o2 sensors that match the 3.4 plugs Edited May 29, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Good morning James, The Pulley cost me $3.77 cause it was half price weekend at the yard I went to. For my evaporator, I am going to try and keep the original small canister like this guy did. https://www.yotatech.com/f160/elvotas-3-4-swap-128285/index4.html Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 29 minutes ago, ednelson100 said: Good morning James, The Pulley cost me $3.77 cause it was half price weekend at the yard I went to. For my evaporator, I am going to try and keep the original small canister like this guy did. https://www.yotatech.com/f160/elvotas-3-4-swap-128285/index4.html Ed OK cool so we are doing the same thing there as well, i picked up a bunch of plastic Tees yesterday and started wiring it up. Did a little more research on the neutral start switch, looks like I cant just swap plugs, but I can just disable the system by jumping 2 of the wires in the plug itself together with a spade connector. "1) "There is a set of wires that comes down right by the starter that are supposed to go to the auto trans. There are two fat black ones going to a pigtail, one had a white tracer on it. All you need is a 4" long peice of wire and 2 spade connectors. Put a spade connector on each end and plug it in just to loop the wire, makes it so you dont have to cut any wires."" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 Neutral start switch is a good thing. Do the jumper thing and make the computer happy, then wire the switch with the right plug into your starter hot wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 2 minutes ago, WME said: Neutral start switch is a good thing. Do the jumper thing and make the computer happy, then wire the switch with the right plug into your starter hot wire. think my best bet would be to buy a NSS off of a 96 T100, should bolt right up and mate up to the plug, Ill override it in the meantime though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 (edited) Ed, do you have this VSV on the front of your motor? I cant seem to find out what it does, not seeing it on most peoples trucks at all. It looks like it plumbs into the front of the intake manifold based on the hose routing. one of the nipples broke off the VSV, I think it may have something to do with the power steering idle up, which I do not have any longer since I swapped out to the ORS high pressure line. Thinking I can just cap off the vac line and remove it. Edited May 29, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 I believe that goes to the power steering reservoir thingie that is supposed to give you more power in your power steering when idling or just moving very slowly. That thingie is not needed and I left mine off and plugged the outlets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 That's what I am thinking as well. so I am out here rigging up this charcoal canister but starting to notice I do not have any loose Evap plugs that I can find in my 3.4 harness. the only loose plug I can find is this one which you said you do not have, it doesn't fit into any of the Evap VSVs either. Would yiu you mind taking a look at your harness and tell me where the Evap plugs are breaking out at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I know the Evap plugs are usually blue/green/brown, nothing like that hanging loose on my harness that I can find, strange... Not that I mind, one less thing to deal with if it really doesn't have it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ednelson100 Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 they are not in the engine harness but come out of the body harness on both T100s beside the canister and evaporator boxes. I am going to pull mine out of the 3.0 harness and run them separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 1 hour ago, ednelson100 said: they are not in the engine harness but come out of the body harness on both T100s beside the canister and evaporator boxes. I am going to pull mine out of the 3.0 harness and run them separately. ahhh well that makes sense then, you got any links on how to get them from the 3.0 over to the 3.4? i see them still attached to my 3.0 engine harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 She's starting to look like a real motor again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) Got her setup enough to give her a crank today, disconnected the igniter because I wanted to crank it a bit to build up oil pressure. good news she spun over with no crazy metal mashing noises! bad news, one of my injectors is spraying fuel all over the place. Tried replacing the o-ring, then realized it was leaking from the top grommet, tried stealing one off the 3vze but the injector nozzle is different, overnighted one from Amazon so should be here tomorrow, also will give the dealer a call and see if they have one in stock a wise wise man would have sent these injectors off to be rebuilt when I had the engine stripped down... I am not a wise man So close, yet so far! Edited May 31, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Flushed the radiator, filled it up w purple power cleaner and let it sit for a bit, then flushed it again. Looks nice and clean now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Neutral start switch override Found the 2 large black wires on the plug built a little spade jumper connector Jumped the 2 wires together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 3.4 battery harness explained left side red- battery postive blue- battery negative green - starter signal right side red - main starter connection blue - ground to motor, bolt hole on block near oil pan Green - starter signal connection on starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 Toyonlyswaps.com battery tray, spray painted and installed on drivers side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) Some crappy pics of the heater hose routing, basically the stock 3vze hoses route to to proper places, one hose routes from the left hand side of the firewall into a funny looking box which is your heater control, there is a cable off the box that runs into the cab AC controls, off of the box is a Hard line, your funky snake hose off the 3vze routes off that then back over to the left hand side of the engine where there is a heater hose port on the right hand side of the firewall is another heater hose and port, hook up your short 3vze heater hose to this one and route it in between the heater control box and the other heater hose to the port on the right side of the engine It's easier than it sounds, once you have the hoses in your hand and your crawled up on the engine bay you will see what I am talking about Edited May 31, 2017 by defrag4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defrag4 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 In this pic you can see where one hose snakes behind the funny box down to its home on the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.