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Made a bit of progress today, tried unbolting the exhaust pipe from the cat up towards where it enters the engine bay, bolts rusted solid so I ended up chopping it off with a Sawzall, figure the exhaust guy is going to have to come up with some new piping anyway. Crossover pipe was hitting the heat shield for the linkage so I trimmed that a bit as well, then it hit the actual linkage itself, so I removed the Linkage rod. I will have to figure out a solution there but that's for another day.

with the 3vze pan on there I was able to get it to drop down on the mounts and not hit that crossmember, so good news there.

Much respect to you guys out there tackling this project by yourself!

Trying to line up these motor mounts and engine to the transmission at the same time is like trying to nail jello to a damn tree... Articulating 3 jacks and a engine hoist, over the truck under the truck back and forth for hours....

Spent most of the day trying to get everything to situate itself nicely with not much luck. I eventually unbolted the transmission mount and think that will help me tomorrow. 

Interestingly enough while I was giving up and putting all the tools away, I dropped the engine hoist and I'm pretty damn sure the friggin mounts just lined themselves up! 

Who says the devil doesn't have a sense of humor???

Back at it again tomorrow! Hopefully it's a bit cooler...

 

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I bought my crossover pipe and a few other bits from offroad solutions LLC 

 

not cheap! Now I wish I would have just modified the stock one like you did, passenger side drop would save a lot of headache 

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Sounds like you had a fun day James,

   I didn't have any issues getting the engine to line up with motor mounts and transmission. You did use the mounts from the 3vze, right? I did start to bolt it in and then remembered I had forgotten to put in the torque convertor, LOL, so hoisted it back up again for about the forth or fifth time.

  I used the 3VZE oil pan, baffle, and pick up tube with strainer. This seemed easier than cutting the 5VZE baffle.

   I did have a heck of a time getting the shift linkage back together after I completely took it out earlier. It was hard getting the ball joint end back between the two loose metal pieces and then slide back in to the holder coming out of the frame.

After I realized I was trying to use the wrong engine block bolt hole for the alternator bracket, LOL again, it was easy getting the 5VZE alternator on.  I had swapped voltage regulator from the 3VZE alternator to keep the same connector and then cut three inches of the adjusting bracket.

installed the 5VZE starter with no problem.

Re-routed fuel line as far as I could get it from the exhaust pipe, along the firewall, and hooked it up. May still place a heat shield there later. Bending the copper fuel line tubing I made one kinda bad kink but I think it will be OK.

Re-installed the 3VZE air compressor. You have to remember to place the front bottom bolt in before you position it on the bracket. The other three  bolts can go in after positioning.

Started to re-install the 5VZE transmission lines but then it started raining so went inside garage and took the power steering reservoir apart and replaced all the seals. It looked like it had been leaking pretty heavily.

I am going to update this page nightly and hope you will do the same so we may be able to help each other. I am about ready to start on wiring maybe tomorrow.

Ed

 

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got about 20 mins to work on the truck today and it started pouring rain, still wrestling with getting the engine to mate up with the tranny, ive got it within 1/2 inch or so but not perfect, any tips?

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Hmmm, not sure why its not lining up.

Where do you live? Maybe I will come over and help you. I bet you are far from San Antonio, aren't you?

Are you using the 3.0 transmission or the 3.4 transmission?

I used the 3.4 donor transmission that came from the donor truck with the motor, but the 3.0 should work. Also I took the hook off of the 3.0 and used that on the other side of the motor so the chain was hook to hook but that shouldn't make any difference.

I bolted the back of the transmission up and then placed a bottle jack with wood block under the front of the trans oil pan and lifted it maybe 1 inch and it lined up perfectly. Motor and trans lined up easily three times with no problem. Does it feel like it is hitting something? Are you sure the crossover is not touching anything? Are you sure the torque convertor is all the way in? It drops in to the first set of splines and then drops in some more to the second set. You have to wiggle and push it a lot to drop in. My first attempt I thought it was all the way in but it wasn't. If the torque convertor is not all the way seated you will have about a 1/2 inch gap between motor and trans and it wont go any further.

    As for my progress, I spent about three hours trying to run the transmission lines back to the front. Tried the 5vze tubes, then the 3vze, then back to the 5vze. Got it past the exhaust OK but not enough space between the AC compressor and steering stabilizer. Concluded the 5vze compressor bracket now drops the compressor down lower. Tried to go back to the 3vze bracket but it will not fit. Tomorrow I am going to bend the hell out of those tubes up over the frame and bend some more reach the radiator.

This is so much fun (seriously I love to do this kind of stuff) solving one problem at a time.

Ed

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Hey Ed, got it today! I am using the 3.0 tranny

 

I could have sworn the TC was in all the way but I decided to take it back apart and re-seat it, seemed like it went in another inch or so when I did, after that I dropped it back in and with a bunch of jacks and cursing, we have contact! Bolting everything up now and then need to align the motor mounts/tranny mounts again. Then on to the next tasks. Baby steps!

 

ixBUtyv.png

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Looks good James,

I can tell you it is a great feeling once you get the motor bolted in and take away the hoist. We are over the half way point and the biggest chore is done.

I felt like I have just been spinning my wheels not getting anything accomplished (you know the feeling, I'm sure) the last couple of days so did some easy stuff.

Removed the ECU and harness from the donor, re-installed 5VZE power steering reservoir, and right now working on the battery tray. Tomorrow, going to harbor freight and buy a $10 tube bender for my trans tubes.

Ed

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You guys are doing great, BUT I'm beginning to wonder if it would easier to switch the house into long wb T-100  :P. That would be mostly carpenter type work, which most of are better at.

Quote

 

 

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That is what I am planning to do on my next swap, haha.

Battery Tray is finished, I just kept cutting and bending till it fit.59261e12cb070_BatteryTray.JPG.c7bfec01d44c7851f5199eb65987fb14.JPG59261e5985b6f_batteryTrayinstalled.JPG.50f7812ad88aa8a4e5438dde48850ac2.JPG

 

 

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Blargh bit of a set back today, got everything tightened up on the bell housing/engine last night, went to bolt up the torque converter today and the TC bolt holes weren't lined up with the flex plate bolt holes, tried to spin the flex plate with the crank but both the flex plate and torque converter were spinning together so I couldn't line them up

 

doing some research on the internet suggests there should be a 1/4-1/2 gap between the flex plate and TC, if not then it's likely the TC isn't seated correctly, so back apart it all comes :(

at least I'm getting pretty familiar with all these bellhousing bolts!

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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I had the same results but I could just barely see one of the bolt holes and put an ice pick in it, pried it to align one hole, and then continued on.

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Got it all torn back apart today, reseated the TC, took note of the alignment of the TC/flex plate bolts holes while I was mating everything back together, this time it was a much easier. Got everything bolted back up and got the motor/trans bolted back to their mounts. That motor is in! 

 

On to the next battle... 

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Battery tray looks great! Never saw anyone mod it like that, I like your style, I paid $50 for some custom one that will likely not be 1/2 as nice 

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Thank You

That's great James, motor is in !!!!!!! yoohooo.

I made some good progress today.

   I finally figured out how to get my trans cooler tubes routed. I did not have to bend as much as I thought I would and they pretty much take the old route just with no clips or ties holding them in place. I started laying out and hooking up all the cabling. Two of the connectors, one supposed to go in to the ECU and the other supposed to plug in to the body harness(by ECU area) connectors are different so going to have to search the yotatech swap 3.0 to 3.4 pages for that tomorrow. I guess I will have to use two of the 3.0 connectors and figure out all the pin placements.

Ed

 

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nice! i stuck with the stock trans so all my lines are already done,

 

did you figure out what you are going to do about the alternator bracket? i took a quick look at it today but will diving into figuring the accessories out tomorrow and starting on the wiring as well.

 

did you end up getting a conversion harness from toyonlyswaps or going to be figuring it all out on your own?

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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So looked a bit closer today at the alternator situation, it looks like the issue for me, using the 3.4 bracket, the alternator can't swing out far enough to tighten up the belt, the alt hits the power steering box before the belt is taught. Also looks like I will need to throw a few washers behind the alt bracket to space it foward a bit, I might not need to cut the bracket but it is hitting the power steering box as well, so might as well chop it off a bit. I don't have the factory tensioner bolt/nut piece anyway, so just going to lock it into place with a single nut/bolt through the alt and swing bracket. 

i think with a few washers, a shorter belt, and a bolt/nut I can lick that issue.

Next problem I have is I have no idea how the hell all the wiring was routed/layed originally to get to their proper locations, I might have to sneak over to a used car lot and take a look at another 3.4L truck to see how it was done from the factory, right now my trans wiring is coming out at the front of the motor, need to figure out how to lay it properly so it doesn't get burned up and I can run in down/under the truck. 

Got the next 3 days off so hopefully can make some good progress!

 

how we doing Ed?

 

 

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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Hi James,

All my parts and wiring are coming from my donor 1997 T100 Truck 1. Figuring it out on my own, Google, and https://www.yotatech.com/f160/

I used the 3.4 Alternator and bracket and just cut off 3 inches of the end of the bracket. You have to purchase NAPA part # 040405 belt and it will fit just right for your alternator.

You might not have to go to the junk yard, I can look at my donor T100 Truck 2 and /or take pictures for you. Yeah, I bought two T100s. Here is a picture of my 1995 T100 Truck 2. 5928ef974fa11_1995T100.JPG.7165aeac2c741ff2f129e463b6380bcd.JPG

Looks like the previous owner used it for mud bogging. Its got some big expensive tires not shown in the picture.

Funny story about this. I had never bid on online insurance auctions before and I kinda messed up in a good way. My first bid was on the white 1997 T100 600 miles away from me that looked in excellent shape except for the collision damage to drivers side fender and wheel well. The bidding closed and I thought I did not get it. The next morning I bid on this blue 1995 T100 that looked in pretty bad shape with passenger side damage, but was only one hour away from me. Later in the morning I was notified I had won the 1997 truck. The next day I was notified I had won the 1995 truck. Both were around $1000.

So now here is my plan, having a second T100 has already helped me a lot looking at where things go and scavenging some parts. When I am finished with the swap I plan to take the motor and trans out of this junk 1995 T100 and put it in the 1997 T100 and drive it or I might sell it or just part out everything that I have left on Craig's List.

Ed

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damn Ed, thats nice! Would love to have a blueprint to compare how things are run. Thanks for the belt #!

 

Ill share a few of the pics I collected last night to help me figure out the wire routing. Any additional pics you could share of how the wires should be hung/routed/secured would be great

 

 

 

wiring1.jpg

 

wiring4.jpg

wiring5.jpg

 

fuel return.jpg

IMAG0082.jpg

 

IMAG0084.jpg

IMG00009-20100407-1918.jpg

 

IMAG0088.jpg

Edited by defrag4
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WHats your plan on the heater hoses? I have the hoses off my 3.0, 3.4 didnt have any when I got it.

i have read that they criss-cross, engine side pass hose goes to firewall side driver inlet, and engine side driver hose goes to firewall side pass inlet

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5 hours ago, linda s said:

Just so you guys know. It may seem like your the only ones on this thread but hundreds of us are reading every post. Damn I love this stuff

Linda S

 

i got lucky to find Ed! there are very few threads on the internet dedicated to 2wd swaps, even fewer focusing on swapping into an RV! Hopefully we can help the next sucker who comes along to attempt this mission

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Thanks Linda,

  I think by the time we finish, maybe in a few more weeks we will be able to give detailed instructions to anyone that wishes to attempt this.

James,

  Your motor looks different from mine, what did it come out of?

I just hooked up the heater hoses to the connections they seemed to be pointing to. I guess this is wrong? Why do they have to crisscross?

5929a54ede392_HeaterHoses.JPG.032f8c6db70b52e9e6d5dead4b79f41a.JPG

Cabling is all done:

 

 

Today I had to modify the throttle cable bracket to make the cable coming from the transmission reach. Just a simple hack saw cut and then bend.

5929a5e46a569_Throttlecablebracket.JPG.3601be177487313435134edfda3a5f4e.JPG

 

Went to put my AC compressor belt on and discovered the 3.0 compressor does not stick out far enough even after changing the pulley to the 3.4 splined pulley. I did not want to use the 3.4 compressor because my 3.0 system is still charged and no leaks.

Will have to research this new problem some more.

 

Here are a few more pics

5929ac0d18cc7_TopWiring2.JPG.f29c6ee3a3932ac4ba573b42805a1ac7.JPG

5929ac2cd6d8e_DriverSideWiering.JPG.7d12a9d259ed432df97aab8f41107a24.JPG

5929ac33449f2_BottomWiering.JPG.bca1d44cbe4a9581872d7cd650f09dd6.JPG

 

 

 

Ed

5929acb3c5cb6_PassSideWiring.JPG.fafe6f69e6489d66fee22b3ebed66983.JPG

Top Wiring 2.JPG

Top Wiring 2.JPG

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Figured out an alternative alt bracket, wanted to use the 3.0 alt because I do not have the 3.4 alternator connector.

 

using the 3.0 bracket and an empty bolt hole above the water pump. Still going to need a shorter belt, that one you suggested should be here tomorrow!

 

 

image.jpeg

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Also good to see that the aftermarket steering stabilizer will fit, have one sitting in a box waiting to go on, wasn't sure if it would interfere with the 3.4

 

my motor is out of a 96 t100, those pics I posted were just a bunch of random reference pics I found on the net

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For the AC Compressor I read you have to change the pulley and the clutch assy. working on it now.

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Thanks so much Derek, I was wondering about that.

James,

This is why you have to change the entire clutch assy and the top half of the AC compressor.

Be prepared when you take out the long bolts running all the way through the top of the compressor assy the bottom also drops off and some compressor lubricant can come out if you do not hold the bottom on somehow. I had the 3.4bottom in a vice but not the 3.0. - dang.

3.0

5929f4fae892d_3.0Compressorclutch.JPG.5f95f5c0a4a60aa9b3f1ca1356da8913.JPG

3.4

5929f4fec4668_3.4Compressorclutch.JPG.6e334336cf2ef39149b96e99a64f799a.JPG

 

 

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damn, was hoping I wouldnt have to pull that compressor out again! Its wedged in there pretty good.

 

Made some progress today, got the wiring harness ran but not plugged up yet, fuel feed line hooked up, power steering feed/return line hooked up, built a brake booster hose and got that hooked up. 

all the swaps I have seen have those heater lines criss-crossed, so we shall see how it works out for you, might not make any difference at all buy that funky little black box is connected to the heater control on the AC. I was able to scavenge one heater hose from the 3.0 and make it work on the 3.4, punched a hole in the other trying to get it off so got some extra heater hose on the way.

going to try and get the starter wired up here in a min, the connector looks the same for the 3.0, just about 1 inch short, think I might need to split open the loom and stretch the line a bit.

 

 

Edited by defrag4
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