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Hello folks.  Have a question concerning engine noise.  

When engine is warmed up, it sounds ok pretty good.  When it is in park and I give it gas, it sounds pretty good.

When it is cold, it sounds a bit rough.

Now to the concern...

Upon acceleration and under load... there is a distinctive 'knocking' of sorts.  It seems steady in tempo. When I am traveling and take foot of gas, the knocking subsides.  It only seems to happen when I am under load while accelerating.

Ideas?

22Re with only 40k.  Sat for a long time.

P/O was older couple who put 4K on it in the fifteen years they owned it.  The older individual admitted that he had neglected the maintenance on it for some time.  

 

 

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Check ignition timing, when the fuel tank is low fill up with premium. Test again.

Weirdness answer a broken motor mount, under heavy load it lets the engine shift and something is banging on the frame.

 

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Thanks for the swift response WME.  

Will turn my attention to the ignition timing.  Have to learn what that is.  Should not be a problem.  Will report back on findings.  

If this is the case...

a) will I need to continue using premium gas indefinitely, or can this be fixed?

B) does this thing with the ignition pose a risk to the engine.

I will visually inspect the motor mounts.

Any other thoughts?

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So it sat a long time before you bought it. What have you done maintenance wise since then. Should have had a complete tune up with valve adjustment. Valve adjustment isn't difficult and makes a big difference in 22re performance. Timing adjustment is a standard part of a tune up.   A well tuned engine like ours should not need high test.

Linda S

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Using premium fuel is just part of the trouble shooting program As Linda said a properly tuned Toyota 22 series engine should be very happy on regular. 

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You will need to jumper pins TE1 and E1 inside of the little box marked "diagnostic" first then set the timing. (if I remember correctly the check engine light should flash with the pins jumped) If it's had a head gasket done it's a real good possibility the distributer is off one tooth it should not spark knock. A dead give away would be the distributer against the adjustment stop.

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Linda S.,

Yes, it has sat for a long time before finding it's way to my novice yet caring garage.

Since I have lurched it I have driven it the 70 miles from town I found it in, and then less than ten more around town.  

Have not done much in the way of the engine save for preparation.

Planned maintenance includes complete change of fluids (oil, transmission, coolant), three new gate premium belts, air filter, thermostat, and installed an aftermarket air cooled transmission fluid cooler in front of radiator.  Also, mechanic friend suggested valve adjustment.  (Interested in a tutorial on this process.)

i did put a new bosch agm battery in the engine compartment.  Also, the p/o put new spark plugs and wires in.  P/o also had a fuel injector replaced.  

 

Maineah: 

Not sure what you are referring to precisely.  Will need to do some homework concerning the diagnostic box you did reference.

What doesn't it mean for the distributor to be 'against the adjustment stop'?

Thanks for trying to help me figure this problem out.

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The timing is partly computer controlled so you need to freeze the computer to manually set the timing. If a distributor is placed in the engine incorrectly. It can be set for correct timing, by turning the distributor all the way to one of stops 

 

 

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On 2017-04-05 at 9:10 PM, Mister Blu said:

Can anyone direct me to a tutorial on valve adjustments, likewise with any timing adjustments that may be necessary?

 

Edit, you have 4 cyl, I was thinking 6 cyl, so never mind

 

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The 4 cylinder valve adjust video is good. When the engine is installed there is a bit easier way that does not require you to worry about where the timing marks are because they will very hard to see. All cams have what is known as valve overlap. At each firing cycle the exhaust valve and the intake are open at the same time the exhaust is just closing and the intake is just opening. So you can watch the valves as the begin to "rock". Follow the firing order adjust 1 as 4 rocks next 3 as 2 rocks 4 as one rocks and 2 as 3 rocks. No need to lose sleep if you are slightly off with with the exact dead center but you will be able to see it with no problem it's very obvious, try it once before you adjust the valves and you will see it first hand. Note turn the engine clock wise do not turn it backwards it puts slack in the timing chain if you feel you have missed your mark go around again. You can use the video method but I think it will be easier to remember where you are if you do 1 cylinder at a time you'll spend more time dealing with the valve cover than adjusting valves any way.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay..l so I finally went ahead and did the valve adjustment.  A few of them were a little tight, and two were a touch loose.  Nothing seemed way off though.

Changed oil afterward... o.e.m. filter, Castrol high mileage 10w30 with a quart of Lucas.

Not much of a noticeable difference.  

Do have one descriptive correction.... it may not be so much a knock... as sounding 'throaty'.

again... this sound only happens when in gear and upon acceleration.  

If I am driving and take my foot off pedal... this noise is not there.  

Of course, as soon as I step even lightly on the pedal again... the sound returns.

Please, any ideas?

 

 

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Exhaust leak?   May be.  

Will need to look a bit deeper.  

Thanks all.  Will let you all know if it does turn out to be a relatively simple and inexpensive exhaust leak.

 

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what you are hearing are the rod and main bearing knocking .  not the valves .valves tick and rod and main bearing knock. my mini does the same thing when cold .once warmed up the rod and main bearing tighten up. and oil pump gears tighten and pumps more oil. even thou it only has  40000 like mine. some of the causes are just from sitting along time and from trying to pull a 5 grand coach around. the reason it stops when gas is let off .is because there is no stress on crank shaft from trying to pull coach. nothing really worry about as  long as you let engine warm up a little before to take off and take  good care of engine.may seem crazy the cheapest maintenance you can do is keep oil changed .around 2000 or 2500 miles I change the oil may sound silly . but I bet that engine wont have to worry about engine problems.' the only thing I have ever owned are Toyotas. never had a 20r ,22re, or any v6 fail yet and I have thousands of miles on them. I have 299000 on my v6 250000 on 2 22re.s 45000 on my mini. oh and 1000 on my 2016 don't expect that one to last long hate to say it there junk 

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  • 1 month later...

Turned out to be an exhaust manifold gasket leak.  Simple fix.

Moving along.

New belts installed.  Now i can hear better what the engine actually sounds like.

Sounds like there may be an air leak under the hood.

vaccuum line?  What else?

 

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55 minutes ago, Mister Blu said:

Turned out to be an exhaust manifold gasket leak.  Simple fix.

Moving along.

New belts installed.  Now i can hear better what the engine actually sounds like.

Sounds like there may be an air leak under the hood.

vaccuum line?  What else?

 

Not a vacuum line it would make the engine run poorly at idle. It maybe just intake noise theses things need lots of throttle.

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