Douglas17313 Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I am in the process of sealing my 1986 Gulfstream. Since it is 30+ years old, I want to begin with the windows. Could someone please tell me the best brand of butyl tape, the correct width, and maybe a good source for the rubberized, (now fossilized) weather stripping? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I've never noticed any tests comparing the various brands of 'butyl tape' available so won't hazard a guess as to which one is 'best'. This is Dicors:- https://dicorproducts.com/product/butyl-seal-tape/ Attached is their MSDS. 2 ingredients. No 'mystical' components. I suspect they're all basically the same Butyl tape is also available in different colours as well. I have NO idea if they all work/seal/last the same. BT-1834 MSDS.pdf Where's this weatherstrip installed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas17313 Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 The rubber strip around the windows has dried out and shrunk over the years. The corners of the largest window and over cable front window are completely exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 We can't help unless you show us what kind of window bead you have. Some looks like this And some looks like this but is really screw cover Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas17313 Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Thank you, Linda. The top, larger image is exactly the type I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 21 minutes ago, Douglas17313 said: Thank you, Linda. The top, larger image is exactly the type I have. They come in different sizes. It's called glazing bead. You need to make sure you get the right size. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 have you considered sourcing an entire window assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 A few bucks to reseal but hundreds to replace the whole window. Kind of doesn't make sense to me. Windows would need to be custom made. Every manufacturer used different sizes. Not something you can buy off the shelf. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Linda is right new windows can be pricey. However if you happen to be going through the Elkhart Indiana area it would be worth looking for replacement windows and lot's other things. I have not been there in a long time and not sure what they have anymore? There use to one place that had an acre of windows. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 OK in this post I'm operating in my creative cheapskate mode. I bought about 2 ft of the correct glazing bead. Then I removed the old preshrunk bead, cleaned up the window and bead. Then I soaked the old bead in a tub of hot water and then reinstalled it so it fit all the corners correctly. I ended with a gap at the top, then I cut a length of the new bead and installed it. Looks great. Remember that this glazing bead is NOT the glass water seal but is a decorative trim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas17313 Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 In one of the first posts I read from Linda S., she stated that the outside rubber trim did not seal the window, it was the butyl tape that kept the moisture out. While I will definitely replace the fossilized rubber trim sealant, my main focus, as directed by Linda, is the pulling the window assembly, cleaning the frame of old adhesives and dirt, and then replacing with fresh butyl tape. What would be the recommended width for the tape? I've seen it in 3/4 and 1 inch width. Since I'm going to end up doing all of the windows, the marker lights and some trim, I don't want to waste any by having to cut it off, other than trim around the window after installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I'd just pull the inside trim ring to confirm the size of the window cut out, measure the outside dimension of the flange and then figure out if 1" or 3/4" wide tape is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrocrider Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 On 4/2/2017 at 8:20 AM, DanAatTheCape said: have you considered sourcing an entire window assembly? Sourcing a complete window with 2 1/2" radius corners is big bucks IF you can find a supplier. I spent an unreasonable amount of time last week, placed one order that was cancelled by the supplier, and still don't have a solution. My needs are to fill 12 1/8" x 59 1/8" x 7/8" front facing cab over window. Hopefully I'll solve my problem this week & post my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Douglas17313 said: In one of the first posts I read from Linda S., she stated that the outside rubber trim did not seal the window, it was the butyl tape that kept the moisture out. While I will definitely replace the fossilized rubber trim sealant, my main focus, as directed by Linda, is the pulling the window assembly, cleaning the frame of old adhesives and dirt, and then replacing with fresh butyl tape. What would be the recommended width for the tape? I've seen it in 3/4 and 1 inch width. Since I'm going to end up doing all of the windows, the marker lights and some trim, I don't want to waste any by having to cut it off, other than trim around the window after installation. Butyl tape has the consistency of play dough. You want to have to trim some off after you install the window. That's how you know you got a good seal. Once you start working with it you will see how easy it is. I refrigerate it before use. Makes it less gooey but still flexible Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrocrider Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 On 4/2/2017 at 2:09 AM, linda s said: We can't help unless you show us what kind of window bead you have. Some looks like this And some looks like this but is really screw cover Linda S Does the glass push up against the upper part of the inverted L shape? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 The little notch at the top goes into window frame and the long section presses against window. Ya made me go out and pry some out of my camper to check darn you. By the way if you would just sent me some more pic of your window I bet I could figure out a fix. Detailed ones of inside of frame and cross section of that rubber seal. Close up of where glass seals to window frame. Close up of where you think it's broke. Pic of trim ring too would be good. Put them on you other thread or send them to me personally. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 On 4/3/2017 at 10:48 AM, vrocrider said: Sourcing a complete window with 2 1/2" radius corners is big bucks IF you can find a supplier. I spent an unreasonable amount of time last week, placed one order that was cancelled by the supplier, and still don't have a solution. My needs are to fill 12 1/8" x 59 1/8" x 7/8" front facing cab over window. Hopefully I'll solve my problem this week & post my experience. I was thinking a used window OR a window from one of the Elkhart "leftover" dealers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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