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More MPGs,and More Power... 87 22RE Air Intake Modification


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REDSKINMAN  so if this $38.00 kit can increase HP by 3.3 and works on my V6, EFI, i would do that. is this a "complete" kit, or are there other parts required for install, also i am not expertly skilled in wrench turning, is this something i could do, or better left to a "mechanic" ? THANKS IN ADVANCE. JOE FROM DOVER

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2 hours ago, hunkaman said:

REDSKINMAN  so if this $38.00 kit can increase HP by 3.3 and works on my V6, EFI, i would do that. is this a "complete" kit, or are there other parts required for install, also i am not expertly skilled in wrench turning, is this something i could do, or better left to a "mechanic" ? THANKS IN ADVANCE. JOE FROM DOVER

Joe I have not installed it but I wouldnt think it's that hard,to answer your other questions this is what is stated in the listing:

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Well found this on toyota tech forum about adding one to v-6:

 

1) The standard intake draws air from the front of the grille, which is as "cold" as it's going to get anyway unless you refrigerate it.

2) More importantly, cold air is not your engine's friend. The reason that the plenum or intake manifold is sitting right on top of the engine is so that the air gets warmed before it gets ingested into the cylinders. That promotes good vaporization of the fuel and complete, uniform burning, extracting the maximum power from the fuel charge. 

The reason your engine has a cold-start injector (or choke if carbureted) is because, when the engine is not warmed up, the air drawn into the engine remains cold and the fuel doesn't vaporize well, so you have to enrich the mixture to get enough vapor to burn well. 

If you could blast ice-cold air directly into your cylinders your engine would run like crap, if at all. Basically, it would run all the time just like it runs now just after start-up on a cold morning. Do you really want that?

So why do high-performance race engines use refrigeration/ice to cool the intake air? Because they have turbo chargers which compress the air and consequently heat it well beyond the ideal point for engine operation. They have to cool it down to the proper temperature to avoid knocking and to get the maximum air (at the proper temp) into the cylinders. Even the non-turbo engines may produce so much heat that they overheat the intake air. Your 3vze is not in that league.

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Sorry Charlie bad info. SAE guide lines are 1% increase in hp per 10 deg of temp drop. Most of what was quoted was technically correct for a COLD engine. Once the engine reaches operating temperature then cold air is better. That is why the Toyota has a cold air intake as do 99% of all cars produced.

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On 4/11/2017 at 0:42 PM, WME said:

Sorry Charlie bad info. SAE guide lines are 1% increase in hp per 10 deg of temp drop. Most of what was quoted was technically correct for a COLD engine. Once the engine reaches operating temperature then cold air is better. That is why the Toyota has a cold air intake as do 99% of all cars produced.

I have no clue if it works or not,in that same thread from toyotatech someone else posted to go to youtube and search for mythbusters cold air intake and you will find several videos showing the why and how they dont work so I did and there are a bunch of them

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OK you stick with U-tube and I'll go with the Society of Automotive Engineers

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2 hours ago, WME said:

OK you stick with U-tube and I'll go with the Society of Automotive Engineers

I'm not sure how to respond to this,you seem offended about my previous post which i did not intend to do.And I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing either.I'm not disagreeing with you,I think most of the youtube videos I was talking about are saying dont bother replacing the stock setup with something like what I linked to on ebay,are you disagreeing with that? I do not know the answer or claim to.

And as far as the LCE video Derek posted,all it shows is a 4 runner on a dyno,thats it,we have no ideal if anything has been installed on it or not and they do not show any proof of any performance gains.

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Most of the "I changed to a magic new...and it gave me 40 hp"  videos are a case of The Emperors New Clothes. An engine is just an airpump and is a balanced system. For best performance it needs to stay balanced.

Back to the OP don't you think that Toyota would have changed the air box design if they could have gained 3 hp for free.

The LCE video has the hood open for cooling and there is a big fan just out of frame for cooling too. The just released Dodge Demon makes over 800 hp and is naturally  aspirated (not turboed)  the press release brags about it having  the largest cold air inlet of any production car.

I built a 22RE for my Toy it was in the 130 hp+ range. So for almost $1500 I gained 16 HP not really cost effective but I needed the power to pull a trailer through the Rockies.

I installed a new head with oversized valves and a port and polish, a new hotter cam, a bored out throttle body, low restriction air cleaner and a 2.5" exhaust system with a much larger muffler. 0-10 MPH a stock toy could beat it but above 20 mph no contest.

Not aimed just at you, but a warning for all not to be blinded by the light

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Thanks WME! You've finally convinced me to leave my stock air box alone. I was blinded by the light! As a OP noted the increase in sound with the mod does not equate to an increase in power or better fuel consumption. Now I need to sell my extra air box I found....oh well!

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33 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

If you really want your MH sound powerful, you need one of these:-

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Electronic-Simulator-Switch-Chevrolet/dp/B00QF84ZJ8

 

Early on in the development of the practice of mental illness treatment "imbecileism" was a recognized diagnosis,  the litmus test back in the day was the love of noise.  Sad to see that with all the advances in medicine over the decades that it is still an accurate diagnosis for some! 

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OMG talk about the ultimate posser accessory

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Well now that would be perfect and I'm sure it would increase my MPG's and performance by @ least 10%!!

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2 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

Well now that would be perfect and I'm sure it would increase my MPG's and performance by @ least 10%!!

I'm thinking nitrous. Can't use it for the long term but just every once and a while to make me feel powerful and to blow off that jerk in the fat behind truck next to me.

Linda S

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am experienced, if you want both power and gas mileage first your fuel system has to be fully functional minus the egr, a bigger colder intake helps but only very little, headers do nothing but rob power what you need is a oversized exhaust manifold at least 2/1-4,outlet for a 4 cylinder 2/1-5 optimal for any v-6 or really any four cylinder, catalyst must be big and have a huge inlet and outlet muffler doesn't matter, have your intake and exhaust valves and inserts replaced with a large as a diameter as possible porting helps but is not needed, then go with a 472 cam or larger longest possible exhaust duration and brand new rockers or nothing will lign up and it will clack., go with hardened domed pistons 250$ for four about through rock or je for a 4 cylinder, keep compression lower then 10:5 and make sure your engine can handle the higher amounts of heat, with anything over a crane 272 you will need to jump your fuel pressure by 5 pounds at least or get different rated higher flow injectors or carburation set up, if efi get rid of the AFM or maf and throttle body setup go with a,larger one in all cases including matching intake tube, it takes some tinkering with the efi but any four or six cylinder will pick up two hundred horse and almost as much in torque, torque is where you get your gas mileage and what will jump that four cylinder off its mounts in power other power mods can be made but this is what will get you power and gas if you know how to spec the efi or fuel system out properly and have adequate cooling ignition mods just burn the Toyotas valves up and pistons also make sure you have a decent amount of zinc in your oil these things will eat themselves alive without it not found in normal oil anymore only matters with pistons and valves very soft with any import pre 95 causing overheating and nasty issues if stock. Did I miss anything? You dont need no's or a turbo just the optimum compression and air fuel setup gave a 1.8 liter 250 horse original pistons valves and duel carbs, Honda prelude just using some of these tricks with optimum air fuel flow 2.5 inch exhaust front too back sounded nasty with a cherry bomb. Slight cam modifications.

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  • 3 years later...

I wanted to chime in here.

 

I have a cold air intake I put that on first about 6 months ago. I cant say I didn't noticed much of a difference in power or gas mileage. I also just installed a LC header long tube. I can say with absolute certainty that it does give you noticeable power. from take off to top end. It also helped with gas mileage. I just took my rig up to Emerald Pools this last weekend and it scooted right up those hills. for once I found myself gaining speed lol. I was stoked. I was loaded too.

 

I will add this. LC Engineering claims to have a drop in header which they do in a way but for 500 bucks it should fit better. I will have to do some tinkering because under certain load conditions (Rarely) it will tap the frame at the collector.

 

if this would be a perfect fit with no problems id tell everyone to install one. especially if you have a 4 Cylinder the extra power is really priceless in these rigs.

 

 

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