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Overhang window replacement 1991 WW


vrocrider

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Presently has warped plastic with cracks that has leaked. Have tinted tempered glass replacement. Old seal has a bunch of silicone. Would like to replace seal. Anybody know part number for seal?

Thinking I'll remove the frame and install glass off the vehicle. Thoughts on materials I need & how to do this?

Thanks.   

    

Edited by vrocrider
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RV glass is installed to the frame the same as your windshield is installed in your vehicle. Vehicle glass adhesive. Must be installed out of vehicle on flat surface for best results. An auto glass place would not charge much to install it. I don't know what kind of window bead you have. Would need close up picture. Generally inside screws need window bead and outside screws need radial insert trim. Very different things

bead but there are different sizes

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Window insert trim looks like this. Can't find my usual source. Regular insert trim doesn't flex enough and buckles in the corners

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-RV-Trailer-1-2-Vinyl-Insert-Window-Trim-Mold-Flexible-Screw-Cover-24-Ft-/331997321249

Linda S

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Thanks Linda. 

I have inside screws. I'll take a picture of seal & post it. 

Do you know what I can do to make the silicone removal easier? When I go back in with seal do I use any adhesive with seal against fiberglass filon body? If I do it myself can you recommend a brand of window adhesive? Is there any plastic film I can apply to outside of glass to help it survive road trash impacts?   

Thanks. 

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reinstall window on camper with butyl tape. I have never had to completely replace window glass. I have had the seal fail and I filled the gaps with Captain Tollys. Not enough for new installation. I would go have an experienced glass guy do it. No idea on plastic to protect window but the glass guy might know something. Sometimes paying some extra money is worth it.

Cold makes silicone firmer and easier to peel. Ice? Still going to take some time. Small scraper, screw driver. gently peel it away

Linda S

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Thanks Linda. The Winnebago parts PDF describes the seal as .06 panel x 3/16 inch. Has a picture but can't seem to copy & paste. Half moon look on front & grooves on top & bottom. Will send picture tomorrow.  

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i have used a product made by dupont chemical called "prep sol" to remove dried silicone. try to scrape off as much as possible then use the prep sol. to remove the remaining silicone. joe from dover.

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11 hours ago, vrocrider said:

Thanks Linda. The Winnebago parts PDF describes the seal as .06 panel x 3/16 inch. Has a picture but can't seem to copy & paste. Half moon look on front & grooves on top & bottom. Will send picture tomorrow.  

Hmm well in your case the seal just might be the thing that actually holds the glass in place instead of auto glass sealant. That is self sealing weather-strip  and is similar to the locking weather-strip used on Sunrader plexiglass windows. Here are some examples

http://www.perfectfit.com/15976/154177/Weatherstrip--Trims/Self-Sealing-Weatherstrips--Self--Locking--2-Piece--Boats--Equipment-Etc.html

Sorry didn't know Winnies had those kind of windows. No one has ever mentioned it before and I don't own one. I do know this weather-strip though cause I have a Sunrader

Linda S

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Are you talking about the motorhome window by the overhead bed?

If so I have replaced mine. This is what I did.

Window brake. Went to a Window shop and got bad service, they cut the new glass to small, it leaked. Then I found out they broke the fillon siding at the lower left corner of the window. Went to another shop an got a plastic window installed, with old seal. It leaked. I'm getting pissed.  I ended up fixing the window myself. I installed a plastic, Lexan,  window and used a new seal from Winnebago.

The new window seal has to be welded together, I used a soldering gun to do this with a flat blade. Sealed the window to the motorhome with butyl putty.

Darrel

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You will probably have to use a new seal because the new glass, or Lexan is about 12 thousands of an inch thinner than the old glass. This is why my old seal would not seal.

Darrel

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Do a search: over the cab window replacement,    you will see my original post.  Linda has it http://winnebagoparts.com/  click on  Look up parts,  your rear,  model #,  a pdf will come up,  go to the bottom and click on  "window-vent & exterior door group"   Part # 099154-01-000 channel glazing stationary glass .62x45" black.

Darrel

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Our front window (bunk) leaks a bit around the seal (looks just like the glass in above photos), removing the glass and using new weather striping + butyl certainly seems very by-the-book, but would there be anything wrong with just getting a tube of some super sealant and sealing all the seams? That certainly would be less expensive and far less time intensive. 

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It will work for awhile and look like hel-. Then you will have to re-do.

Darrel

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Here's another schematic of the window installation, which implies that the inside metal frame needs to be removed first so that the weather stripping can be popped out thus releasing the glass.  Sound right?  Then a bead of sealant would go inside the pocket of the weather stripping plus #3 "ribbon sealer" (I assume this is butyl tape) between the metal frame and the wall assembly?  That last part doesn't sound right to me, there is nothing to adhere to on the inside that I can see that would provide a watertight seal. (the #4 below points to the outside of the weather stripping)

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Top thicker section is in weather strip, that's the glass. Bottom of weather strip is over window frame. Push in the locking section and the weather strip provides a water tight seal just like on a Sunrader. The problem I have with it is it doesn't look like his window.

Linda S

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Thanks all.

Nice rig Darrel! Question, why did you choose the Lexan plastic? is it tinted? I have gone glass route because the plastic I now have is warped. Might reconsider the plastic.

My 91 WW is a WT321RB. MaineErik's picture & parts list is same as mine except one item. My parts PDF has 2 listings. It offers a second key 4 #002281-02-000 weatherstrip .06" x .125. This is .11" thicker than the other offering.     

Do I need to replace weatherstrip only? What is the key 3 #069640-06-000 ribbon sealer?  

Thanks again.

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I chose Lexan because it will not shatter if a rock hits it. My original glass shattered into thousands of pieces. I could not find tinted Lexan at the time so went with clear. It has not leaked for 3 plus years and 30,000 miles.

Looking at the Winnebago parts site. Your year and mine show different pictures, they may be the same though. Have you done a SEARCH on this forum for "over the cab window replacement" ? In that post I show a company with a phone #.  Mobility RV Inc.   800-933-7742    give them the info for your motorhome and they will send you the seal. Yes, ribbon seal is a fancy name for BUTYL TAPE.

The new window and seal is not a easy install. You have to cut to the correct length and hot melt the ends together then put it into the metal frame. I just remembered, the aluminum window frame is two pieces held together with pop rivets. You have to remove these rivets in order to install the window and seal. Look close a picture #5, on the right side of the widow you can see where the frame divides it also separates on the left side.

Darrel

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10 hours ago, darrel said:

I chose Lexan because it will not shatter if a rock hits it. My original glass shattered into thousands of pieces. I could not find tinted Lexan at the time so went with clear. It has not leaked for 3 plus years and 30,000 miles.

Looking at the Winnebago parts site. Your year and mine show different pictures, they may be the same though. Have you done a SEARCH on this forum for "over the cab window replacement" ? In that post I show a company with a phone #.  Mobility RV Inc.   800-933-7742    give them the info for your motorhome and they will send you the seal. Yes, ribbon seal is a fancy name for BUTYL TAPE.

The new window and seal is not a easy install. You have to cut to the correct length and hot melt the ends together then put it into the metal frame. I just remembered, the aluminum window frame is two pieces held together with pop rivets. You have to remove these rivets in order to install the window and seal. Look close a picture #5, on the right side of the widow you can see where the frame divides it also separates on the left side.

Darrel

Called Mobility RV & they indicated my seal part number 002281-01-000 is no longer available. The part number you listed 099154-01-000 is available. Any thoughts on how to figure out if I can make this work?  

You've convinced me to go Lexan. Do you have dimensions? Did you make it or have someone make it for you? Where can you buy sheets of Lexan? Is it available tinted? 

The butyl tape is listed on Winne parts list as 5/16 in width. From pictures looks like you used something wider. What color & width do you recommend?

 

Thanks. 

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If you could give me a really clear picture of that seal with a cross section maybe I could find something that would fit. I usually go with white butyl tape cause the walls of the camper are white. Some of the black stuff can leave rain trails that look dirty. Size of tape doesn't matter. It will squeeze out the sides of window and easy to cut and peel off like molding clay

Linda S

and measure the lip on your window that the weather strip would go over. 6 hundredths of an inch seems too thin. Got calipers? Other side of strip will need to be different too if you go with lean. Need to match the panel being installed.

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No, I did not cut the Lexan, it was the second glass shop that did.

Your window construction may be configured differently than mine. Look closely at the first picture I posted and compare it with what you have. When I look at the Winnebago Parts.com site It shows your 91 and my 94 as the same configuration but different part numbers?

!991 wt 321 RB        002281-02-000    10.3" x 57.3" glass    Window assy 11" x 58.6"    Weather strip-self seal-.06 panel x.125-black

!994  wt 321 RB        099154-01-000     11.25" x58.1"    Window assy 12' x 59"     channel-glazing stationary glass .62" x 58.1"

This is where it gets confusing. Same picture but different part numbers.     My advise; measure your window frame and  glass and compare with these numbers. See what you have.   If it matches the 1994 measurements order that seal.  Hope this is not confusing. Sorry I did not take more in depth pictures.

Darrel     

Edited by darrel
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Thanks folks. 

Will try to salvage existing seal. Probably will order a small piece of 1994 seal to compare.

My challenge will be getting Lexan sourced and cut. Darrel, did you take frame to glass shop to get window cut & fitted?   

Lexan is a polycarbonate, right? I've had some motorcycle windshields that I believe were poly & had coating to reduce scratching. Anybody have any thoughts on where I could source poly with scratch resistant coating?

Thanks.

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As I said, the first two times of trying to get a new window were unsuccessful. The second time was at a window shop, they cut the Lexan. The third try I fixed the problem myself

and it does not leak. Should have gone that route in the first place. New glass and Lexan are measured with millimeters not thousands and may come from China. All new stuff that I could find measured about 12 thousands of an inch thinner. Therefore the old seal may not seal. My original glass was 128 thousands of an inch, 1/8 of an inch. Everything else I measured was about 115 thousands.

Darrel

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10 hours ago, darrel said:

As I said, the first two times of trying to get a new window were unsuccessful. The second time was at a window shop, they cut the Lexan. The third try I fixed the problem myself

and it does not leak. Should have gone that route in the first place. New glass and Lexan are measured with millimeters not thousands and may come from China. All new stuff that I could find measured about 12 thousands of an inch thinner. Therefore the old seal may not seal. My original glass was 128 thousands of an inch, 1/8 of an inch. Everything else I measured was about 115 thousands.

Darrel

When getting the Lexan cut you gave shop W x L dimensions with edge radius degrees? What info do I give to get proper edge cut?  

So your new seal was actually designed for thicker glass but worked with thinner glass because new?

F4 windshields is a manufacturer of custom poly windshields in Ohio. I've seen them at motorcycle shows with a display with steel wool on a wiper blade going across windshield surface with no scratches. Going to see if I can source flat sheet of this & get it cut.

Cee Bailey in Ca. is another manufacturer of motorcycle & aircraft windshields using acrylic plastic.  

Thanks.   

Edited by vrocrider
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No the shop had the window frame so they could cut a proper fit. Yes new seal seals with thinner new glass. The old seal was stretched out because of the thicker glass. I went to a regular glass shop that does auto and home.

Your not going to believe this but pictures are here. I guess I don't through anything out. Found the old seal, here are the pictures. Saved from 3/2014, three years.

Measurements are  .62" x .45".  That would be 5/8 inch wide an just under 1/2 inch tall. The part that slides inside of the window channel is 1/2 inch. The inside of seal is smooth.

Darrel

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On ‎3‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 3:56 PM, linda s said:

Top thicker section is in weather strip, that's the glass. Bottom of weather strip is over window frame. Push in the locking section and the weather strip provides a water tight seal just like on a Sunrader. The problem I have with it is it doesn't look like his window.

Linda S

Thanks Darrell.

After comparing your pictures with my window I see as Linda has indicated I have a totally different system. My seal rides up over the frame with a half moon shape. So when you look at my window you see black metal frame like yours then the additional rubber half moon seal then the window. One end of the frame is riveted together like yours. 

I've got filon damage below part of the window where water has entered. I've got to redo the bunk area on one side where the water exited.     

Thanks all.

 

Edited by vrocrider
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Found a supplier on ebay for outdoor UV rated scratch resistant smoke polycarbonate - LEXAN MARGARD SOLAR GRAY MR-10 POLYCARBONATE SHEET 1/8" x 60" x 12" - for $85 plus shipping. As Darrel has experienced it is actually .118" thickness not 1/8". They'll cut to size for free and will do radius cuts for a fee.   

Anybody have an idea on how to figure out corner radius required? Anybody have experience with scratch resistant MR10 poly?

Thanks.

 

Edited by vrocrider
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On ‎3‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 10:42 AM, linda s said:

Hmm well in your case the seal just might be the thing that actually holds the glass in place instead of auto glass sealant. That is self sealing weather-strip  and is similar to the locking weather-strip used on Sunrader plexiglass windows. Here are some examples

http://www.perfectfit.com/15976/154177/Weatherstrip--Trims/Self-Sealing-Weatherstrips--Self--Locking--2-Piece--Boats--Equipment-Etc.html

Sorry didn't know Winnies had those kind of windows. No one has ever mentioned it before and I don't own one. I do know this weather-strip though cause I have a Sunrader

Linda S

Curious, which seal does Sunrader use?

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I knew I had seen window seals somewhere. Check out  www.all-rite.com  and do a search of " window rubber seals ". Quite a selection including the design I have.

Darrel

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Sunraders have a 2 piece locking weather strip and for the life of me I can't remember the measurements right now. I think 1/8 to 1/4, so 1/8 thick plexi and 1/4 thick fiberglass. Many have converted to the self sealing weather strip. A major pain to install. No taking it out and doing it on a nice convenient table. I broke a window cause I didn't set up a decent scaffold and lost my balance. Lucky a friend came through with a replacement for me. On my Nissan and still leaks though. Old weather strip doesn't seal well and I have yet to buy new stuff. Truth, redoing it scares me. Just what I need is another broken window.

Linda S

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Seriously, I just don't get it, we put caulk or some other from-a-tube sealant everywhere else on our homes, why not on the windows too? All this talk of gasket sizes, breaking windows, the trickiness of it all... I am so not looking forward to it. 

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30 minutes ago, MaineErik said:

Seriously, I just don't get it, we put caulk or some other from-a-tube sealant everywhere else on our homes, why not on the windows too? All this talk of gasket sizes, breaking windows, the trickiness of it all... I am so not looking forward to it. 

Well the was my Nissan that I got with a broken window. My 86 Toyota Sunrader has the original windows and seal and it is tight as a drum. I don't think your going to find a tube of sealant that will last that long not to mention how that stuff looks

Linda S

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On ‎3‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 11:32 PM, darrel said:

I chose Lexan because it will not shatter if a rock hits it. My original glass shattered into thousands of pieces. I could not find tinted Lexan at the time so went with clear. It has not leaked for 3 plus years and 30,000 miles.

Looking at the Winnebago parts site. Your year and mine show different pictures, they may be the same though. Have you done a SEARCH on this forum for "over the cab window replacement" ? In that post I show a company with a phone #.  Mobility RV Inc.   800-933-7742    give them the info for your motorhome and they will send you the seal. Yes, ribbon seal is a fancy name for BUTYL TAPE.

The new window and seal is not a easy install. You have to cut to the correct length and hot melt the ends together then put it into the metal frame. I just remembered, the aluminum window frame is two pieces held together with pop rivets. You have to remove these rivets in order to install the window and seal. Look close a picture #5, on the right side of the widow you can see where the frame divides it also separates on the left side.

Darrel

Took my window with frame out today. My frame is riveted on one end only. There's a mating plate that riveted to both to both sides of the frame where it's split. The plate rides on top & not too attractive. Seems like maybe it should be below making the exposed frame edge more flat & attractive with only rivets showing. Do you have a riveted joining plate? If yes does it ride above or is it hidden below?

I haven't drilled rivets out yet. I'm thinking your seal may be just a different design and may work with my frame. Gonna call some W dealers tomorrow & ask.   

Thanks.

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My window frame is two sections, with two rivets on each side. When the window is installed the rivets are not visible.

Darrel

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