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I'm in the middle of this job right now, and, unfortunately, it's every bit as tough as I've heard. Still, I know that a lot of folks have been talking/thinking about doing it, so I'm posting up a few photos that might prove helpful. (I actually have quite a bit of video recorded too, but am not sure now if I'll end up posting that on YT or not...)

Notes:

  1. Give yourself a lot of time to do this job. I could see this taking a couple days of labor for the average joe, plus you need to measure and order shims, wait for delivery, etc.
  2. Try to label everything well and put parts/bolts/nuts in baggies with notes, to keep track of everything. Plenum has a lot of stuff attached to it and around it.
  3. Shims are 34mm in diameter, and I found them cheapest here: https://www.fastservsupply.com/search.aspx?tSearch=M34+shim (~$5ea, after you create an account)
  4. My 91 Warrior has about 83,000 miles on it and I'm finding that all of the 6 intake clearances are good (borderline, but good), and all of the 6 exhaust clearances are way tight. Pretty much the norm, from what others have said.
  5. I think the recommended special tools are a must on this job, but even those can't help on some of the difficult shims, next to the firewall. In those situations, when the brake booster (or something else) is making things very difficult, use a 3/16" allen wrench to lever the bucket down—because there won't be enough room to use this wraparound-the-cam wrench tool.
  6. After pulling a shim for measurement, put it back in the bucket before you turn the engine again. I've seen bad stuff happen before when a cam lobe catches the edge of an empty bucket.

starting the project
IMG_1216.thumb.jpg.1e1474797ad3ae4b9899f3a75a985a9e.jpg

 

driver's side view
IMG_1217.thumb.jpg.070815340152ff2d3d7661e571af3e97.jpg

 

clearance specs from hood label
IMG_1221.thumb.jpg.b369d697c4e72d4287297cc58a0a0f82.jpg

 

intake plenum removed (plug those holes immediately and clean/vac surrounding area well!)
IMG_1239.thumb.jpg.9b460abc6cfea7498082b075b24d3b60.jpg

 

driver's side valve cover removed: cylinders 2 / 4 / 6
IMG_1241.thumb.jpg.c537fb0e73fd2c716f7ed7af00627227.jpg
 

Edited by Ctgriffi
Corrected actual mileage

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Following this thread.Good job on finding the shims for 5 bucks each.I've had a hard time finding anyone that wants to do a valve adjustment,and I'm in a big city! one shop didnt want to do it because of one of the things you pointed out.They didnt want the truck taking up shop space while they waited for shims to come in.

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Uhaul has been selling off V-6 Shims - some as cheap as 4 for $11:

https://www.uhaul.com/TruckSales/Truck-Trailer-Parts/toyota-shim-for-sale/Results/

I've bought a selection for a future valve adjustment.

 

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I bought my shims at local toy dealer.  Great parts mgr. Good thing - somehow I screwed up measurements and was able to return.  they were able to get them overnight from regional depot.

Do one shim at a time.

 

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21 hours ago, Skydancer2992 said:

Uhaul has been selling off V-6 Shims - some as cheap as 4 for $11:

https://www.uhaul.com/TruckSales/Truck-Trailer-Parts/toyota-shim-for-sale/Results/

I've bought a selection for a future valve adjustment.

 

I definitely didn't see this option when scouring the web. I like the pricing, although I'm a little surprised that they don't seem to mention the shim heights (i.e. 2.65mm, 2.20mm, etc) in their descriptions—absolutely crucial information, unless you plan on buying 50 of 'em and getting lucky.

Edited by Ctgriffi
clarification about size variety

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On 2017-03-02 at 0:00 PM, Ctgriffi said:

I'm in the middle of this job right now, and, unfortunately, it's every bit as tough as I've heard. Still, I know that a lot of folks have been talking/thinking about doing it, so I'm posting up a few photos that might prove helpful. (I actually have quite a bit of video recorded too, but am not sure now if I'll end up posting that on YT or not...)

Notes:

  1. Give yourself a lot of time to do this job. I could see this taking a couple days of labor for the average joe, plus you need to measure and order shims, wait for delivery, etc.
  2. Try to label everything well and put parts/bolts/nuts in baggies with notes, to keep track of everything. Plenum has a lot of stuff attached to it and around it.
  3. Shims are 34mm in diameter, and I found them cheapest here: https://www.fastservsupply.com/search.aspx?tSearch=M34+shim (~$5ea, after you create an account)
  4. My 91 Warrior has about 72,000 miles on it and I'm finding that all of the 6 intake clearances are good (borderline, but good), and all of the 6 exhaust clearances are way tight. Pretty much the norm, from what others have said.
  5. I think the recommended special tools are a must on this job, but even those can't help on some of the difficult shims, next to the firewall. In those situations, when the brake booster (or something else) is making things very difficult, use a 3/16" allen wrench to lever the bucket down—because there won't be enough room to use this wraparound-the-cam wrench tool.
  6. After pulling a shim for measurement, put it back in the bucket before you turn the engine again. I've seen bad stuff happen before when a cam lobe catches the edge of an empty bucket.

Thanks for taking the time to document and post your project, this is on many's bucket list.   JIm

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If these six little boogers could talk... well, they've all been swapped with new, and my clearances all look good. Time to put it all back together and see how she runs. 

image.thumb.jpg.37dc4b0cc31b1f065a67273e24dccef7.jpg

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If you check each valve and note the shim and clearance (I used to just write on the head) there is a good chance you can mix and match a lot of them. Just flip them if you reuse them. After awhile you'll get very good with a micrometer. Toyota is just one of dozens that use shimmed valves. Yes you will find the exhaust valves the tightest they take the greatest beating due to the heating.

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26 minutes ago, Maineah said:

If you check each valve and note the shim and clearance (I used to just write on the head) there is a good chance you can mix and match a lot of them. Just flip them if you reuse them. After awhile you'll get very good with a micrometer. Toyota is just one of dozens that use shimmed valves. Yes you will find the exhaust valves the tightest they take the greatest beating due to the heating.

Would it have to be a micrometer or might a digital Harbor Freight caliper do as good?

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13 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Would it have to be a micrometer or might a digital Harbor Freight caliper do as good?

I find a micrometer to be more accurate and easier to use. The jaws on a caliper can be an issue because in order to be accurate they must remain dead parallel. They make mechanical digital micrometers that makes reading them more user friendly and they are much small and easier to hold on to. A zero to 1 inch micrometer as opposed to a zero to 6 inch caliper. Either one of course would work so if you all ready have calipers that's what you should use this is not some thing you will do on a regular basis.

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 I have not had a reason to use a micrometer in 30 years or more.  When I learned to use them there was no such thing as a digital caliper! 

I was wondering how accurate a Harbor Freight caliper could be and decided to measure my Harbor Freight feeler gauges.   To my surprise the caliper is dead on!

Now I have to figure out how accurate the Harbor Freight feeler gauges are:P

Thanks for the response.  Jim

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18 hours ago, jjrbus said:

 I have not had a reason to use a micrometer in 30 years or more.  When I learned to use them there was no such thing as a digital caliper! 

I was wondering how accurate a Harbor Freight caliper could be and decided to measure my Harbor Freight feeler gauges.   To my surprise the caliper is dead on!

Now I have to figure out how accurate the Harbor Freight feeler gauges are:P

Thanks for the response.  Jim

I use a digital caliper set that I bought at Lowe's a few years ago, and it's worked pretty well for me. (Looks a lot like the HF model, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if they were made in the same factory...)

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I have both they each have their purpose, to measure small things you hold in your hand the micrometer is easier and far faster. Back in the dark ages when I did a lot of automotive work time was of the essence if you wanted to make a living. Things get real tedious when you are in the middle of a 12 cylinder 48 valve engine rebuild.

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After reading all these posts I have made an appointment for a valve adjustment with Toyota dealership. My engine has 74K on it. I will get clearance reading of before and after and post them here. Dealership wants 108 Dollars per hour, with a 3.5-4.5 hour job plus parts.   OUCH!!!    But it will be much easier on my back. Any advise to pass on to the mechanic?

Darrel

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Timing belt, pulleys, water pump, hoses, camshaft seals were done at 63K. Yes I will be requesting the old shims.

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On 3/2/2017 at 11:00 AM, Ctgriffi said:

I'm in the middle of this job right now, and, unfortunately, it's every bit as tough as I've heard. Still, I know that a lot of folks have been talking/thinking about doing it, so I'm posting up a few photos that might prove helpful. (I actually have quite a bit of video recorded too, but am not sure now if I'll end up posting that on YT or not...)

Notes:

  1. Give yourself a lot of time to do this job. I could see this taking a couple days of labor for the average joe, plus you need to measure and order shims, wait for delivery, etc.
  2. Try to label everything well and put parts/bolts/nuts in baggies with notes, to keep track of everything. Plenum has a lot of stuff attached to it and around it.
  3. Shims are 34mm in diameter, and I found them cheapest here: https://www.fastservsupply.com/search.aspx?tSearch=M34+shim (~$5ea, after you create an account)
  4. My 91 Warrior has about 72,000 miles on it and I'm finding that all of the 6 intake clearances are good (borderline, but good), and all of the 6 exhaust clearances are way tight. Pretty much the norm, from what others have said.
  5. I think the recommended special tools are a must on this job, but even those can't help on some of the difficult shims, next to the firewall. In those situations, when the brake booster (or something else) is making things very difficult, use a 3/16" allen wrench to lever the bucket down—because there won't be enough room to use this wraparound-the-cam wrench tool.
  6. After pulling a shim for measurement, put it back in the bucket before you turn the engine again. I've seen bad stuff happen before when a cam lobe catches the edge of an empty bucket.

starting the project
IMG_1216.thumb.jpg.1e1474797ad3ae4b9899f3a75a985a9e.jpg

 

driver's side view
IMG_1217.thumb.jpg.070815340152ff2d3d7661e571af3e97.jpg

 

clearance specs from hood label
IMG_1221.thumb.jpg.b369d697c4e72d4287297cc58a0a0f82.jpg

 

intake plenum removed (plug those holes immediately and clean/vac surrounding area well!)
IMG_1239.thumb.jpg.9b460abc6cfea7498082b075b24d3b60.jpg

 

driver's side valve cover removed: cylinders 2 / 4 / 6
IMG_1241.thumb.jpg.c537fb0e73fd2c716f7ed7af00627227.jpg
 

Are you going to make a youtube video? That would be cool if you did:D

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On 3/7/2017 at 5:39 PM, darrel said:

After reading all these posts I have made an appointment for a valve adjustment with Toyota dealership. My engine has 74K on it. I will get clearance reading of before and after and post them here. Dealership wants 108 Dollars per hour, with a 3.5-4.5 hour job plus parts.   OUCH!!!    But it will be much easier on my back. Any advise to pass on to the mechanic?

Darrel

One piece of advice for mechanic, of which they're probably already aware: "Looser is better—so shoot for clearances on the far end of the spec"

Yeah, please post your before-and-after clearances here if possible (or in another thread). Also, I'm sure many people will be interested in hearing the total $$$ damage, when it's all said and done. Thanks!

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On 3/7/2017 at 9:30 PM, redskinman said:

Are you going to make a youtube video? That would be cool if you did:D

Thinking about it, yes, but I have two concerns: 1) My video recording hasn't been very thorough lately, on the tail end of the job; mainly 'cause we're heading out of town soon, and time is short. 2) I worry a bit that a video might encourage people to try something that they can't successfully finish (meaning: this job is going to be very difficult for a lot of folks).

But, there are not a lot of decent videos out there on the subject... so, I'm still on the fence. :) 

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The engine is being torn down as I speak. Hope to hear what it looks like soon.

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Still need to road-test, but I finally got it all back together and running today. Started up fine after a few seconds and seems to idle well, rev up strong. I'm excited to see how she does at highway speed, etc!!!

Feels like #victory  :D

 

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2 hours ago, Ctgriffi said:

Still need to road-test, but I finally got it all back together and running today. Started up fine after a few seconds and seems to idle well, rev up strong. I'm excited to see how she does at highway speed, etc!!!

Feels like #victory  :D

 

Congratulations, I hope mine goes as well.   What are you doing with the extra parts :P

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16 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Congratulations, I hope mine goes as well.   What are you doing with the extra parts :P

Since you asked first... you're welcome to my little stack of old 34mm shims. PM me an address, and they're yours. 

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I appreciate the offer, but may be some time, if at all till I get to them.    Many thanks  Jim

 

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Got my motorhome back this afternoon  "valve adjustment."

All of the intakes were .009 - .010 so they were not touched.

The exhaust were another thing. #1 - #6 were all .005. Too tight. They are now .012 for 5 of them and .013 for the 6th one.

Valve specs are:   Intake: .007 - .011     Exhaust: .009 - .013

The engine does idle smother now, it was a very slight random miss at idle. I had noticed a rougher idle the past year. Don't anticipate any great improved performance.

We bought this motorhome 5-13-2013 at 36,805 miles, it now has 73,744 miles.       

Darrel

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