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1985 Sunrader 22RE 18ft Remodel


TheGrayOutdoors

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Hi All,

 

I've been lurking on here for a little while now and recently my wife and I stumbled onto an 18 foot Sunrader.  Our intentions are to fix the mechanical and structural issues then update/rebuild the interior (hopefully with all of your help) and hit the road mid June to full time for about a year.    Currently, the Sunrader is sitting in covered storage where I went out yesterday and took photos of the main problem areas.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking these are the main issues to address in "Phase 1".

1.  Address the Fake Dually situation

2.  Run down the checklist of flushing and filling fluids

3.  Fix sagging roof and repair damage to fiberglass

4.  Reseal exterior

 

The former owner told me that the rear axle was replaced with a 1 ton.  I'm pretty sure this just means he replaced the axle with the original, but I'm not a hundred percent sure because no paperwork was provided.  The undercarriage and axle and linkage look pretty pristine with what looks like normal surface rust.  I've read a lot on here regarding the "death axle" and I know with the shorter sunrader there have been some talks of going with upgraded single rear wheels.  I'd like to explore this option with the hopes to one day put the coach on a 4 x 4.  Can you verify the single rear wheel option?  Also, what tires should I be looking for?  Is there anything else I'm not thinking about in regards to the rear axle?

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

Underside_Rear_Axle_3.JPG

Roof_Damage_3.JPG

Roof_Sagging.JPG

Roof_Damage_2.JPG

Fake_Dually_2.JPG

Roof_Damage_4.JPG

Exterior.JPG

Underside_Rear_Axle_1.JPG

Underside_Rear_Axle_closeup_3.JPG

Edited by TheGrayOutdoors
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Well not an 86. Full floaters came from Toyota in 86. Yours must be an 85 that wasn't finished at the Sunrader factory until 86. Hard to believe though cause mine was first sold in January 86 and it's a full floater, aka 1 ton. You do need an axle. Single wheels is only the last option. I recommend it as a safety measure for people far from a replacement axle. Your in California and there are axles out there.

Roof doesn't look that bad to me. If all the roof vents and holes are sealed properly it shouldn't be a problem. Do check the interior cabinets and make sure they are screwed in tightly. Especially the passenger rear corner. For some reason that rear side likes to come down and the cabinets break. I have 2 Sunraders and it happened to both of them.

Looks pretty nice though. Your going to love it

Linda S

possible axle sources

Schimmick's Auto Dismantler USA-CA(Torrance) E-mail 1-877-289-7329 9
1989
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
-0MI     2065 $Call SV Auto Dismantling USA-CA(Irwindale) Request_Quote 626-256-9400 Request_Insurance_Quote
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19
1991
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
4x2, dual rear wheel, 1 ton,NO ABS,RWD-0MI     170218 $650 Tri County Auto Dismantlers USA-CA(Santa-Paula) Request_Quote 805-647-8440 / 877-667-2787 Request_Insurance_Quote
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56
1992
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
4-92,3.0L,4x2     K03013 $Call Ajax Auto Parts USA-CA(Coachella) E-mail 1-800-606-6043 121
1992
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
4X2, 6 Cyl, 1 t, Dual WHL- 92 TOYPU 70,000 A A01138 $800 Pearsons Auto Wrecking USA-CA(Ridgecrest) Request_Quote 1-800-446-5865 Request_Insurance_Quote
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130
1989
Rear Axle Assembly
Toyota Truck
4x2, dual rear wheel, 1 ton-0MI     1509 $Call Salida Auto Wrecking USA-CA(Salida) Request_Quote 209-543-0776 Request_Insurance_Quote
LiveChat_space.gif
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Thanks for the correction on the year make.  I thought it was kind of weird it said 1985 as year make on the title, but was sold to me as an 86 and it's listed as first sold in 86. It's a bummer that the rear axle must be replaced, I thought I had read that on the shorty's a 5 lug might be okay with beefed up tires and repacked bearings.

 

If I choose to replace the rear axle, what else should I attend to while switching out the axle?

 

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No as long as the fake dually's are on there it can break. One of our members had a nasty break on a freeway a few years ago in a shorty Sunrader. By the way with a new axle you need 4 new wheels too. The real dually wheels made for the full float axle. If those places have axles they should might have wheels too.  In the mean time make sure your inside tire is about 5 lbs or 10lbs higher pressure than the outside. Takes a little stress off the bearings

Linda S

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That picture looks terrible!  So, just to clarify, even if I ran two D rated single tires (4 wheels total on the whole of the truck) on the back and removed the fake duallies it would stress the axle too much?  I understand that the fake duallies are the problem and I have completely eliminated that option.  Sorry, not trying to be a pain, I just want to make sure that there is no other option than the full float 1 ton rear with the 6 lug wheels.

 

I don't plan on driving it at all until I get this axle problem sorted out.  I for sure would be the one person who flies off the side of the mountain when the wheels came off.

 

Thanks again

Edited by TheGrayOutdoors
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From the photo above (ONLY) it looks to me as though that axle had been building up to a fail for a while. Note that part of the break is a different color from the shiny clean material. To me, it looks like this:-

fractured-input-shaft-6.jpg

http://met-tech.com/race-car-transmission-input-shaft/

Switching to single rear wheels will help some, but if the damage has already started ....?

That axle that snapped was on an 18' Sunrader that had just been in the shop having rear bearings installed (as I recall) and I'm sure everyone said "it'll be fine"! And what did the owner do after it broke? Swapped in another axle (quite possibly a used one) and is still driving it around Mexico with the foolies. A 'Darwin Award' nominee?

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Okay, I'm sold.  I know I need the rear 6 lug axle and the 4 wheels that go with it.  Are there any other components I should try to get off the donor?  Assuming I do this myself, I'm guessing I should I plan on repacking the bearings.  Any other maintenance I can do while I'm down there?  The shocks are looking old as sin and I was thinking of updating them to Bilsteins, which is what everyone seems to recommend.  

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You'll want to replace the axle seals, check the brakes and put in new ones if even a little bad. You have to pull the axle to install brakes or do pretty much anything so better to get it all done when you install the axle. And yes repack bearings.

Linda S

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As I search for an axle, I'm working on some of the new owner checklist.  I ordered the vacuum hose replacement kit from LCE Performance and am going to flush the radiator and change the transmission fluid this week.  Do you suggest that I change other rubber components in the engine as well?  Do you have resources for where I might be able to find those parts?  

 

Thanks

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Well as long as your replacing hoses, radiator hoses might be good to have new. Especially the little one hidden behind the alternator. Most people miss that one and when it goes bad your coolant is gone fast. It's just a Toyota truck. Most auto parts stores carry all the parts you need.

Linda S

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Hi Everyone,

 

I've been cleaning up the Sunrader while searching for a mechanic who will even discuss putting in a rear axle.  I'm having a real hard time finding someone who is willing to help me.  Is this the norm here in Los Angeles?  Should I just 100% plan on doing this axle swap myself?  Anybody know a good mechanic here?

 

Pictures of progress soon to follow...

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I reached out to a few local Toyota specialty shops, rv places, and a handful of reputable local mechanic shops.  As soon as I said rv, they stopped me and said they couldn't accommodate.  I haven't tried a 4 x 4 shop yet.  Thanks for the recommendation.

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If you have a bit of spare time check for car shows or maybe 4X4 get together s.  Must be a bunch of them in that area.  Some very talented knowledgeable people and they have lots of connections in the auto world.  Walk around look at old and custom cars or 4X4's and chat with people, tell them what you need.   A fun time.   

The mechanic I use would never be found unless you know someone who knows him, big shop behind his house, does not advertise. 

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  • 1 month later...

@TheGrayOutdoors - what're you thinking for fixing your roof sag? I've recently acquired an 18ft '82 Sunrader with extensive sag and I'm considering a few different options:

(1) Bracing on top and bottom to more permanently shape the convex from the concave

(2) Glassing on a cut up truck camper/topper

(3) Saying screw it and going for a convertible :)

I tried propping it up for a month as suggested elsewhere in the forum but to no avail. Full disclosure - we're trying to think of ways to add a little height, too, while maintaining the option for a rack, which was the inspiration for the truck camper-topper.

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13 minutes ago, LilMamaBoneCrusher said:

@TheGrayOutdoors - what're you thinking for fixing your roof sag? I've recently acquired an 18ft '82 Sunrader with extensive sag and I'm considering a few different options:

(1) Bracing on top and bottom to more permanently shape the convex from the concave

(2) Glassing on a cut up truck camper/topper

(3) Saying screw it and going for a convertible :)

I tried propping it up for a month as suggested elsewhere in the forum but to no avail. Full disclosure - we're trying to think of ways to add a little height, too, while maintaining the option for a rack, which was the inspiration for the truck camper-topper.

Later model Sunraders came with a roof beam. A few people have made roof beams out of metal or wood. 18 footers had one beam kind of over the stove area. Can't for the life of me find a pic right now.

Linda S

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Comments from the cheap seats:clown2:

Angle iron on the outside roof. Block up the edges about 1". A piece of 1"x 1/8 strap iron inside, drill holes all the way through and used different lengths bolts to force the roof in to a curve. Crude but will work.

Some member here made a jig and made a steam bent laminated wood brace. Glued together and varnished, looked awesome . Furring strip on the roof long screws through everything, snow coat the outside stuff.

Got access to a 20 ton press? Take a length of 1x2x1/8 tubing and slowly bend the correct curve into it. Mount it like the wood lam beam above.

Feeling frisky?? jack the roof in to shape, maybe add a bit.  Cut a kids swiming foam noodle in half length ways. glue it to the roof then glass several layers of heavy fiberglass cloth over it.  You have just created a  fiberglass reinforcing channel. Do it inside or outside, one in front of the roof vent and one behind.

Way to much $$ on hand?? go to a CNC machine shop and have them carve out a fancy curved support out of billet.

 

 

 

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On ‎3‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 8:51 PM, TheGrayOutdoors said:

I reached out to a few local Toyota specialty shops, rv places, and a handful of reputable local mechanic shops.  As soon as I said rv, they stopped me and said they couldn't accommodate.  I haven't tried a 4 x 4 shop yet.  Thanks for the recommendation.

You could convert to a GM ff 1 ton axle. Cost would be the same or slightly more depending on how crazy you want to go with rebuilding the axle. You will need a new driveshaft as there are no adapters to convert the Toyota driveshaft to accept the spicer 44 u-joint you will need to make the hook up.

The 14 bolt axles are pretty common. Plus it will allow you to go to single rear wheels.

If you decide to go this route, try to find a shop that works with gm trucks. When you see that older Chevy 4x4 jacked with big tires ask the owner who does the work.

Budget 3-4k for the swap.

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