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Hello all!

Background first. I bought a 1990 Warrior, Toyota chassis, last August. Looked great and a good price, low miles. Turns out it was stored in Houston for 5 years, unvented and so problems keep popping up though I keep fixing them. Some, like the tires that looked great but had degraded rubber, the ball joints, major tune-up, I had to have done. I did clean out the furnace (mud dauber nests) and got it running. It eventually started squealing on start-up but I fixed that too (after blowing many fuses as the factory panel guide had the wrong fuses listed!). The fridge ran on 110V but not LP so I took that all apart, cleaned it, installed new burner and now it works but doesn't cool as well as on 110V. All of the plastic interior parts are at least somewhat degraded from the heat it endured and so I've replaced or repaired those. Tracked LP leak developed to the water heater so capped the gas line and need to install new valve though I'm just as happy to use the tank for water storage and not heated as I use so little hot water when camping. I may fix that or not-don't know.

I have a 4000W inverter that will run any appliance I need as long as the coach battery is charged and for that I have a trickle 40W solar charger (in New Mexico where we have much sunlight!).

While running my Kohler 2.5 gen-set last November it suddenly quit in the middle of the night. I finally tracked down a manual and thought that perhaps it was a low oil issue so I topped that off. Still wouldn't start. Electric starter turns it over fine but won't fire. Finally took it to a tech who thinks it's a fuel supply issue as he couldn't smell any fuel even when I cranked it choked. It could be the fuel pump. Problem is that it is almost impossible to access anything in the compartment, it's so tight. We could see the pump but no way to get to it with tools. Tech said to pull the gen-set and repair was minimum $500. I can buy a 2000W portable for less than that and may do so unless someone on the forum has experience with these units. I've read that the Tecumseh engine was a cheapo to begin with. Any suggestions on this would be helpful.

I also have a running lights issue. When I had the gas leak checked out I asked the dealer to check all of the lights. He said that he had no problem getting the tail lights all working properly but the running lights would not light. There's a factory radio in the coach that did light up and produce static but it now doesn't even turn on. I don't know if it's on the same circuit as the running lights or not. Any ideas of why the running lights are out and how to check them. The fuses on the control panel area all fine.

So that's my saga and any help would be most appreciated!

Thanks

Brian

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The Kohler is bottom rung. The only reason to fix it is that it will run your A/C. A 2000/1600 generator most likely won't. To run your A/C you will need 2800w+.

The clearance lights are usually chained off the factory truck clearance lights. Do the truck lights work? If they are out check the truck fuses.

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On ‎2‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 2:03 PM, okeefebrian said:

Hello all!

Background first. I bought a 1990 Warrior, Toyota chassis, last August. Looked great and a good price, low miles. Turns out it was stored in Houston for 5 years, unvented and so problems keep popping up though I keep fixing them. Some, like the tires that looked great but had degraded rubber, the ball joints, major tune-up, I had to have done. I did clean out the furnace (mud dauber nests) and got it running. It eventually started squealing on start-up but I fixed that too (after blowing many fuses as the factory panel guide had the wrong fuses listed!). The fridge ran on 110V but not LP so I took that all apart, cleaned it, installed new burner and now it works but doesn't cool as well as on 110V. All of the plastic interior parts are at least somewhat degraded from the heat it endured and so I've replaced or repaired those. Tracked LP leak developed to the water heater so capped the gas line and need to install new valve though I'm just as happy to use the tank for water storage and not heated as I use so little hot water when camping. I may fix that or not-don't know.

I have a 4000W inverter that will run any appliance I need as long as the coach battery is charged and for that I have a trickle 40W solar charger (in New Mexico where we have much sunlight!).

While running my Kohler 2.5 gen-set last November it suddenly quit in the middle of the night. I finally tracked down a manual and thought that perhaps it was a low oil issue so I topped that off. Still wouldn't start. Electric starter turns it over fine but won't fire. Finally took it to a tech who thinks it's a fuel supply issue as he couldn't smell any fuel even when I cranked it choked. It could be the fuel pump. Problem is that it is almost impossible to access anything in the compartment, it's so tight. We could see the pump but no way to get to it with tools. Tech said to pull the gen-set and repair was minimum $500. I can buy a 2000W portable for less than that and may do so unless someone on the forum has experience with these units. I've read that the Tecumseh engine was a cheapo to begin with. Any suggestions on this would be helpful.

I also have a running lights issue. When I had the gas leak checked out I asked the dealer to check all of the lights. He said that he had no problem getting the tail lights all working properly but the running lights would not light. There's a factory radio in the coach that did light up and produce static but it now doesn't even turn on. I don't know if it's on the same circuit as the running lights or not. Any ideas of why the running lights are out and how to check them. The fuses on the control panel area all fine.

So that's my saga and any help would be most appreciated!

Thanks

Brian

I have an Onan Microlite that had a bad fuel pump. Like yours, trying to access the factory fuel pump was major work.

I ended up buying a Mr. Gasket 42S low pressure inline fuel pump. Installed it on the frame rail close to the genset and ran a new flexible fuel line from the outlet port of the new pump to the genset carburetor.

Next you have to extend the electric from your old pump to your new. Usually 2 wires (+,-).

I also added an inline fuel shutoff ball valve between the tank and pump inlet.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm thinking of pulling the gen and using the space to store a micro genset, portable, that would run much cleaner and quieter. Having to have fuel on hand wouldn't be to much of an issue. Got an estimate of $500 plus new muffler assembly so the economics make less sense. Less convenient but a better fix for me.

thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

been there, done that.    Not worth fixing IMO.

 

Easy to get out: run that side of camper up on some blocks - only need 3-4 inches.  Put a floor jack under it.  Remove fuel line, electrical harness, control cable.  I think I recall 4 bolts hold it.  It weighs about 90 lbs,  

Oh yah, you might need to remove muffler first.

 

I used a sawzall to cut out the engine mount.   I saved it and was able to use it to create a new floor to change that compartment into a storage bin - I measure for a honda 2000 and made it about an 1" taller.. Used a wood floor.   Works good.   I left a ring during the sawzall session so I can padlock the honda into the compartment.  I also got a lock to make the compartment lockable - available at most rv parts places.  

I also saved the electric fuel pump.  By creating a power cable that I could plug into a cigarette lighter.  By adding a shutoff I now have a way to extract fuel from the gas tank - has come in handy once in a while.   I carry a 2.5 gallon gas can on the rear bumper for the honda.  It also adds some comfort when running on the open road and the gas gauge is getting low.

 

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I agree with WME ditch the Kohler even fixed they were problematic and very loud.They did have a low oil pressure kill switch for the pump it is possible that it is bad As for your lights if the truck lights work then it's some thing in the coach some coach builders had lighting fuses, the power from the truck is the only source for all the parking lights tail and clearance. I'll also add some were very good at hiding aux fuse panels. As long as it has been sitting any thing goes from rusty fixtures to missing grounds as most were daisy chained  there is just one run of wires for all of the clearance lights.

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Can't say enough about the Honda 2000i if that's the route you decide to go. Fortunately my rig had no generator but the empty compartment was large enough for the Honda to fit with no modifications. Can't run it in the compartment though. Perfect for storage. I agree with the other Gentlemen, ditch the Kohler. Too loud!

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