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Hi all could use some help so I don't get stuck in Los Angeles suburbs forever.

I am having an issue with my 83 gas Rader where the engine seems to be loosing power when I push the gas pedal... almost as if fuel isn't getting there in time. 

Ill try to describe..

on a cold start ill start the car up and it sounds fairly normal. 

Pop it in first. If I push that gas normal it feels as though the truck wants to die out for a second then it goes. 

Sometimes I get sort of a popping sound and a bucking. The harder I push the pedal the more aggressive this is.

This happens in every gear. Not just first. At all speeds too when I'm pushing that throttle.

I am finding if I really baby that gas pedal it doesn't do it as frequently.

after running for a while say an hour of driving it happens way less or not at all. 

*note back in April I replaced the fuel pump because it was leaking

last month I replaced the fuel filter.

I put a bottle of  stp gas treatment which is a water remover and fuel booster on my last fill up thinking I got some bad gas in my travels. It said safe for all gas engines. I drove for over 2 hours on the highway and no change.

What should I try? Any ideas? 

 

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Sorry but the two main causes of your symptoms is fuel pump and filter.  Can you get a fuel pressure gauge and check what it is. should be 4-5 psi. A bad load of fuel can contaminate.

several filters. My work rig got a bad load of diesel on a road trip with another driver. So far we have replaced $300.00 worth of filters and added 4 qts of diesel dry/water remover.

Check the filter, make sure the arrows are in the right direction. Many stock Toyota gas tanks have a drain plug, try draining out a qt and see what it looks like. 

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@jim oh my I'm not sure how could I check that? I know that I have an inline universal fuel filter near the coach door which is the one I replaced last month... other than that I am unaware of any other screen / filter... where should I look?

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I believe you have a 22R with a carburetor it sounds to me like a bad accelerator pump in the carb. Does it kind of feel like it’s falling on its nose and then eventually takes off?

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Yea accelerator pump and choke.

Here is the factory fuel filter, http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45702.0

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4 hours ago, AbleThought said:

@jim oh my I'm not sure how could I check that? I know that I have an inline universal fuel filter near the coach door which is the one I replaced last month... other than that I am unaware of any other screen / filter... where should I look?

I hope someone else chips in on this.  I am not even sure you have one, was more of  question than an answer.    Jim

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The fuel sock is on the fuel pickup INSIDE the gas tank. This not a Toyota unit, but this is what everything looks like.

https://www.opgi.com/el-camino/L240644/?gclid=CjwKEAiApLDBBRC8oICb9NvKsg0SJAD9yOHsy3qTC7yEBFZOW1aiq5c4MgJzqbK8MF7B2TixL7q6LBoCpXnw_wcB

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21 hours ago, Maineah said:

I believe you have a 22R with a carburetor it sounds to me like a bad accelerator pump in the carb. Does it kind of feel like it’s falling on its nose and then eventually takes off?

 

Maybe that might be the bucking I'm feeling. Is there any way to test? I have no knowledge of carbs but you are correct with the engine type.

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Engine warm and off remove the top of the air filter assembly look down the carb manually open the throttle you should see a good shot of fuel. If not it's the pump. Toyota calls it some thing like an enrichment pump bottom line a carb rebuilt would be in order.

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I'm not sure when it started, but some Toyota carbs have two accelerator pumps. The main and a auxiliary pump.

 

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On 11/16/2016 at 4:32 PM, WME said:

Yea accelerator pump and choke.

Here is the factory fuel filter, http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45702.0

Is it possible I have 2 filters? The one I changed is a universal filter located about where you said but mines universal not the toyo filter.

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7 hours ago, AbleThought said:

No one thinks it's anything like the spark plugs or wires or cap and rotor right? 

Could be if you experience the problem more when the accelerator is closer to the floor.  Larger load of electricity cannot pass through electrical components with bad connectivity.

So, I would also check distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition wire set and spark plugs.

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8 hours ago, AbleThought said:

Is it possible I have 2 filters? The one I changed is a universal filter located about where you said but mines universal not the toyo filter.

Anything is possible with a 30 year old vehicle:o But if your filter is in the same place as the factory filter, its likely that some one just replaced the factory filter with an aftermarket one.

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13 hours ago, AbleThought said:

LA is the worst place to get stuck ugh hills and traffic... I guess in the middle of nowhere might be worse. Still quite bummed and nervous. 

Hell's canyon WY gets my vote as worse!  Fuel pump went out.

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Yeah if you can see a good stream of gas you'll need to go looking for something else. Just check all the normal stuff cap rotor plug wires an easy way to check wires and cap is a squirt bottle full of water just spritz it on the wires and cap if it stops or skips when you wet them replace them.

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Ok so I started messing around with the spark plug wires and the plug wire on plug 1 fell off! Somehow the top of the spark plug unscrewed in the boot! I replaced all the plugs.

So now... the truck does not seem to be loosing power any more. No more bucking however... it is running a little rough. It seems to rock back and fourth a bit more than it used to. I can feel it in the stick to.. feels like it's rocking side to side and motor running a bit louder... any ideas? When the engine revs high in gears it feels normal but at a slower pace is when I'm hearing /feeling it... 

note I WAS feeling this before I replaced the plugs in conjunction with the power loss.

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Well since the plug redo help, the next thing is a full tune up. First make sure the engine is correctly tuned up, valves set and timing correct. Then it may need some new parts, but start with the simple things.

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The tune up parts are pretty cheap just do cap rotor and plug wires won't hurt you budget and it won't hurt the MH!

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Full tune up did it... found a broken ignition coil wire in distributor cap at the tip. Did full cap, rotor, plugs and wires and its running like new ?. Thanks for all the help and saving my butt again.. 

btw.. been documenting my travels in the rader on YouTube if anyone wants to check it https://www.youtube.com/user/ablethought

thanks a million 

Able

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  • 2 weeks later...

This problem has come creeping back. Slowly then got bad again. Bizarrely when I did plugs, wires, cap and rotor it felt like my truck again. Ran it for a couple hundred miles no problem. Now it's back.

here is what I have replaced so far in the last week

spark plugs

spark plug wires

distributor cap

rotor

fuel filter

both belts

voltage regulator 

Fuel pump was replaced 6 months ago.

I'm so stumped. Any other ideas? Carb seems to be shooting a good amount of gas in it when I inspected it. 

It starts up fine. Feels good. When pushed to higher rpms it jolts then will go.

power is weaker that it used to be

only way I can describe is it feels clogged?? It makes me just want to give the gas a good push but last time I did that it made it worse. 

Seems worse on cold starts. When it warms up it happens less frequently 

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The ignitor or coil?? if it seems to be a spark related thing.

Have you been able to check the fuel pressure when the engine is running under load?

Weird sh*t a plugged exhaust.

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1 hour ago, WME said:

The ignitor or coil?? if it seems to be a spark related thing.

Have you been able to check the fuel pressure when the engine is running under load?

Weird sh*t a plugged exhaust.

So with the plug wires came the ignition wire so that got replaced. **note I got 6 wires with my set 4 plug wires and ignition wire... what's the last one? I think it's an additional ignition coil wire as boots are both 90 degrees on the extra but thought I'd make sure I'm not missing something. (Triple checked they are the right wires from oreillys) 

I have not been able to check the fuel pressure.. don't have access to that equipment at the moment.

if exhaust was plugged would I only feel that when I'm pushing the trucks throttle? Start up seems fine.

I have not done valve setting and timing. I am not sure how to do this is it hard? Sounds scary.

ignition coil /ignitor sounds like a thing to replace and check. Easy swap out? 

Edited by AbleThought
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You can check for plugged exhaust with vacuum gauge yes it would probably idle ok but have a huge effect at speed usually when they are plugged they run worse than just bad. What I would do is locate the EGR valve and disconnect the vacuum line and drive it if it's allowing too much exhaust back in to the system it will cause some of the issues you have described. Fuel pressure is not a big issue with a carbureted engine it's more delivery than pressure. I'm not sure your carb has a window in it some did others didn't but if there is a small window in the side of the carb there will also be a line that is where the level should be for the fuel in the carb. At this point I’m going for the EGR.

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2 hours ago, Maineah said:

You can check for plugged exhaust with vacuum gauge yes it would probably idle ok but have a huge effect at speed usually when they are plugged they run worse than just bad. What I would do is locate the EGR valve and disconnect the vacuum line and drive it if it's allowing too much exhaust back in to the system it will cause some of the issues you have described. Fuel pressure is not a big issue with a carbureted engine it's more delivery than pressure. I'm not sure your carb has a window in it some did others didn't but if there is a small window in the side of the carb there will also be a line that is where the level should be for the fuel in the carb. At this point I’m going for the EGR.

 

Just tested the Egr valve and vaccume module using this method...

it all seems to be working as it should. When I T in I get vaccume while pushing the throttle. When I go straight into the VM and add pressure it stalls the truck.

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Replaced ignition coil. It felt so much better. Drove for a while with no problem. Then it happened again. Just once so far in 1st pushing rpms. 

It seems as though it has something to do with the spark! Every time I replace something in line it seems to be fixed for a while. Then it creeps back and gets worse and worse. Again wires, plugs, cap, rotor and ignition coil all replaced so far. Have not swapped out ignitor yet. It's very expencive. Just shy of 300 as far as I can tell. Any way to test this? Any other ideas?

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I was also thinking of seafoaming. From what I gather on a carb engine 1/3 of the bottle goes in the tank. 1/3 gets sucked into the vaccume line and 1/3 down in the carb.. is that right? Anyone do this before? Positive results?

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