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I have a Suburban DD17dsi furnace in my 1993 Itasca Spirit. I would like to remove it but it seems to be stuck and will not slide out.I assumed the exhaust vent is a slip connection and there are only 2 wood screws anchoring the unit to the sub floor at the front.The gas and electrical connections are also in front, so it shoild just slip out of the cabinet cavity right?

Help!! I want to store a ventless  propane heater connected by a hose with a quick connect to the existing flare fitting and keep it in that spot with a hinged door for access.

Edited by Jeffrey Burger

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Does your existing furnace not work? I would never use a ventless heater that requires having an open window while in use instead of a vented conventional furnace. I like to keep the heat made inside where I need it

Linda S

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I am aware of the ventilation requirements. The exhaust vent hole will be open as additonal air for the heater along with an open window.

The heater lights and then the flame jumps off the burner and goes out within a few seconds.This cycle continues  endlessly until the thermostat is turned off. I suspect it is  combustion air restriction, but I still need to remove the exhaust vent and or furnace to see if there is a restriction.

Thank-you for the warning though Linda!

By the way, the efficiency of a ventless heater compared with the original is such that it offsets the loss through a window and doesn't use 12v power from the coach battery.

Edited by Jeffrey Burger

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There's a manual on this site some where. I will look for it. Should have installation instructions there and what goes in must come out

Linda S

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Thank-you Linda. I have the original installation/owner's manual that has good detail but doesn't show if the exhaust vent is just a slip fit or is solidly connected to the furnace.The unit does move a little sideways so if it was rusted together I would have been able to break it loose.

Thank-you for helping though...you are awesome!

 

Jeff

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Looks to me like you need to pull the vent cap off from the outside after you remove the screws. There is caulk in there so it will probably need some prying to get it off. Bet that's what's locking the furnace in place. Might not be the diagram for yours but they all show screws holding them on

Linda S

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Thanks for your help Linda, I'll try that.

 

Jeff

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Well it seems that the unit does just slide out if it isn't stuck because of a bent edge of sheet metal!!! There is this amazing new device that I found called a "flash light"...amazing!

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22 minutes ago, Jeffrey Burger said:

Well it seems that the unit does just slide out if it isn't stuck because of a bent edge of sheet metal!!! There is this amazing new device that I found called a "flash light"...amazing!

He's seen the light!

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I have one out - all that was holding mine in was 2 screws at the front going into the floor and the gas line.  The vent just pulls off.

From what you are describing, I bet that furnace will work, but needs to be run.  IF you are at a higher altitude the flame should settle down after it warms up.

You can check for obstruction by putting your hands over the intake/exhaust vent.  

It will not run without a good source of 12v dc power. You can use external power or start your engine, either will produce strong dc power.  Your cabin battery should be enough - if it is fully charged, etc.  The gas valve and igniters require dc voltage as well as the fan. 

 

Note that the auto start function will try 3 times then the fan just runs and runs.  If you turn it off, wait a little bit and turn it on you get 3 more tries. 

 

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Remove the screws around the exhaust port on the outside it was a way to hold the furnace tight to the exhaust port some were some were not but if it does not move that maybe you answer.

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Thanks for the comments...to explain exactly what the furnace does is it ignites and establishes the flame then after about 3 to 5 seconds the flame lifts off the burner as if the pressure is too high and blows out. The furnace will do this repeatedly until it is turned off. The flame looks nice and blue, taking the cover and gasket off allows the flame to last just a little longer prompting me to pull the furnace (which I finally was able to do) to see if there was a combustion air problem. There is a squirrel cage fan that rotates on the same spindle as the blower and is fine. All looks clean the LP pressure looks good because the water heater burner is normal and the stove and oven flames are perfect. I think the problem is in the circuit board. No one seems to have experienced this symptom so I have not found an answer.

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Dinosaur boards. Match your's up to the pictures inline. They are the only ones that try to light 3 times the original one only try once. Yours  is a unusual problem the replacement board is a good up grade regardless if it fixes your problem or not I'm not one to replace parts but that would be some thing I would try.

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I'm having the same problem with my 1991 Toyota Itasca IT 321 RV spirit. I can't get the Suburban heater out. I got the 2 screws outside on the exhaust out completely, two screws inside on floor are removed, gas line is disconnected.

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They get stuck sometimes in the exhaust flanges sounds like you got all the parts loose.

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