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City driving is hell! Do remodels help with the clunkiness?


Dgillies

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I got that 0.4% from doe but they seem to have changed it recently to 0.2% 

There are dozens of articles quoting 0.4% from the doe website, not just popular mechanics. 

So, use whatever number you want. And that's the discount you'll get on the fuel bill at the end of the trip. Is 3% savings worth it? Only you can say.

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For the record the Nexen tires have a 65 lbs. Max rating not 55lbs. I just love this forum!!

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But what about the Beer?? And I love topic beating:-):-)!

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Beer somebody said Beer?

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Yea, Totem always brings up my favorite food Man!!

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Well good moooorning vietnaaaaam!

Derek, you are right i clean up my posts after i read them but if it takes you one day to reply perhaps theres a pill for that. Seems coastal saw the same nimbers btw i have seen .3% also, big deal. Ive also seen the graphs on mpg per psi on toyota studies and they are LINEAR not a curve. As mentioned, im a big strong guy and my rv weight has been posted before, the heavier the weight the steeper the line i'm thinking. But go ahead and post your quoted "facts" on studies done on smart cars that get 42 mpg soaking wet, your still desperate to prove your advice cost people $ out of their wallet in any regards thats a fact.

 If you would be so kind as to post the door stickernumbers for a 1990 psi recommendation you could engage me on where my rig is at today instead of gagging on your own reluctance to read while constantly trying to be snarky.  If you dont want to read my posts thats quite alright but dont try to reply if you cant keep up;  besides if i belt out a post go back and see the sites changed a word by spellcheck and i fix it im only doing that for your reading pleasure. I have no need to lie and add data after the fact to try to engage an argumentative sort like you.  

Finally, try fitting more than 86$ into a dometic when you shop in the USA and not at Canadian tire where we dont have to pay socialistic GST & PSt tax to support your voters :-)... 

at meijers with mperks $86 gets me more food then i need, then the fridge gets supplemented by restaurants for the times we endulge on local fare. Of course, you would have to actually get out there and use your RV to know these things, instead of just sniping your favorite star in your little kingdom of a forum...

:)

Edit: Boom.

Edited by Totem
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Such a rant. I can't keep up! Why don't you post a sticker for a 1990? The only one that I've got on my computer is a 1993, if that'll help calm you down a bit. :)

Smart cars? How did that end up in here?

" Ive also seen the graphs on mpg per psi on toyota studies and they are LINEAR not a curve. "

Graphs of what? So why not provide a link to the specific 'Toyota study'? I'm sure many would like to see it

If it happens to be a graph of Coefficient of Rolling Resistance vs Speed vs Tire Pressure, I'd like to see a linear one. Like this :) :-

car_tire_pressure_rolling_resistance.png

Winnebago Tire Pressures.jpg

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Hey guys. Thanks for making me feel better about my unfortunate beginning to the forum;-)  My take on all of this is simply that more important than the differences in the side of the argument (50 - 65 psi), is simply to make sure that you know what pressure your tires actually are.  Next for me is Temperature. As I was trying to find the PSI I want (frankly still not sure), I carried my infrared thermometer and checked my tire temps.  As long as the tires aren't building heat it's likely not that big of deal what PSI you run at.

I have always tended to go towards the higher end of the PSI range and don't mind the extra harshness and appreciate the extra MPG. However, currently I am running lower that I thought I would up front because I like the handling better.  Before my next trip I will check all tires and make sure they are consistent. My current choice is about 60 in the rear and about 50 in the front. I say about because most likely my gauge is not going to be the same as your gauge.  Also, if my testing shows the front to be equal at anywhere between about 48 and 55 I will likely leave them alone. Same thing in the rear only at 10psi.

 

Wade

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That's what I run on my rig now Wade. Ran all 65 lbs. and ride was too harsh and if I'm reading the other posts correctly I'm saving $80 over 10000 miles. I'll go for the smoother ride!

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Thanks for the 1993 sticker, that's perfect; its post axle upgrade so its closer to talking apples to apples. interestingly it also shows 6000 GVWR (much more than my original sunrader sticker did I am sure which leads me to wonder if the axle upgrade means one would have 6000 now as his/her recommended GVWR after upgrade ) .

Your sticker is showing 50 psi, I will check the sticker I have currently to compare. It should be interesting if it too shows 50 psi.  To me however, the max psi of the tire is still not "over-inflated" even if it is considered to be by the manufacturer for several reasons but primarily because we go so slowly on the road compared to a regular truck and are weighed down more. I'm quite certain even if a bit rougher ride I am saving $ in better MPG with 65 psi. Besides, it will only start at 65 psi and leak down from there. I don't air up the tires that frequently.

Edited by Totem
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My take on tire pressures? Run whatever you like. But any time I see someone advising to run @ 65psig "because it says so on the tire", I'll call 'BS'. Run 65psig for whatever reason you want and believe whatever you want. :)

I'm still anxiously awaiting specific 'Toyota studies'. But I don't expect them to be any different from any other vehicle with pneumatic tires.

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Enough tire psi, lets get back to the important stuff....Beer

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2 hours ago, Totem said:

To me however, the max psi of the tire is still not "over-inflated" even if it is considered to be by the manufacturer for several reasons but primarily because we go so slowly on the road compared to a regular truck and are weighed down more. I'm quite certain even if a bit rougher ride I am saving $ in better MPG with 65 psi. Besides, it will only start at 65 psi and leak down from there. I don't air up the tires that frequently.

Only if the single parameter of proper inflation is MPG.  The tire inflation recommendations however are made as a balance of ride quality, load and safety.  The increased MPG is the result of less tire friction from a reduced contact patch and sidewall flex.  That little detail affects traction and stopping distance along with handling.  All important components of safely driving down the road.  Still that number on the side of the tire must be there for a reason.  Why not just inflate it to that?   Everyone good with that to make Totem happy?

Back to beer.  My favorite places for drinking are The Belgian Pub on Amsterdam in Manhattan and Shelly's Back Room in Washington DC.  The added feature of Shelly's it is also an excellent cigar bar.  Both have excellent food.  What is everyone's favorite drinking spots?

Edited by Back East Don
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 Dark Horse, Marshall Michigan by far worth a trip in the toy home to see. if not you can watch them on TV also for they were lucky enough to get their own show "Dark Horse Nation". Best beer in Michigan.

the entire brewery is massive and entirely runn by Solar panels. They are impressive.

Edited by Totem
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Captain Tony's bar in Key West! The Original Sloppy Joes. Was there in March. Beautiful women everywhere (but it was Spring Break!)

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2 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

Captain Tony's bar in Key West! The Original Sloppy Joes. Was there in March. Beautiful women everywhere (but it was Spring Break!)

Did you RV there? And if so was boondocking possible? I'm going down there in a couple weeks and would like to camp free if possible. :D

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I hate to tell you Man but No Way anywhere down there now! Things have changed since I was there in the 70s. They even have parking meters now. You can find camping areas everywhere but they are costly. I personally don't think boondocking is possible now Anywhere in the Keys. I've been there for 3 weeks in the last 2 yrs and had to reserve our camping spot 1 year in advance and unfortunately I didn't have my Toy then. Tent camped @ Bahia Honda State Park.....best place in the entire Keys Man! Voted Best Beach in the USA in the past. And you can take your Toy there and camp. Check it out best price also!

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Sierra Nevada up in Chico CA is also run entirely on solar panels. They have a new machine at the tap room that will can any of their beers on tap to order! Lasts way longer than a growler and they only charge $0.50 extra for the can

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 Some food for thought

Overnflaion is not inflated over what is stamped on the tire, it is inflated over what the tire should be inflated to for the weight it is carrying.

A properly inflated tire will exhibit better, traction, handling and braking and be less subject to hydroplaning.

So when push comes to shove and you are doing 65 mph into a wet curve and have to slam on your brakes  is you and your family's life worth saving that 1 gal of gas every 1000 miles?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

s

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6 hours ago, jjrbus said:

 Some food for thought

Overnflaion is not inflated over what is stamped on the tire, it is inflated over what the tire should be inflated to for the weight it is carrying.

A properly inflated tire will exhibit better, traction, handling and braking and be less subject to hydroplaning.

So when push comes to shove and you are doing 65 mph into a wet curve and have to slam on your brakes  is you and your family's life worth saving that 1 gal of gas every 1000 miles? 

I don't know about your tires but mine say maximum weight 1784 a piece at 65 PSI in a dually configuration.

20160930_114920.jpg

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5 hours ago, Derek up North said:

All 185R14 LR D tires will be marked the same. That's the Standard all the tire manufacturers work to. Here's the JATMA (Metric) version.

 

Load Inflation Table.jpg

So at 55 psi the weight limit is about 6000# on a dually setup at 65 psi it's 7100#. 

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Yep, so what does your axle weigh??

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On 10/6/2016 at 4:43 PM, zulandio said:

Did you RV there? And if so was boondocking possible? I'm going down there in a couple weeks and would like to camp free if possible. :D

I boondocked there 5 years ago for a week no problem. What an amazing place. Just need to drive around and find street parking that's not in someone's front yard. That's when I picked up my key lime pie obsession. And my girlfriend won us free deep sea fishing and snorkeling tickets by winning a tricycle race at one of the bars down there. And be sure to catch the sun set out on the west side where the cruise ships anchor.

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21 hours ago, zulandio said:

I don't know about your tires but mine say maximum weight 1784 a piece at 65 PSI in a dually configuration.

20160930_114920.jpg

If you inflate your 4 rear tires to 65psi they are inflated to carry a total of 7,136 lbs. What does your rear axle weight?

An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher.

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7 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

If you inflate your 4 rear tires to 65psi they are inflated to carry a total of 7,136 lbs. What does your rear axle weight?

An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher.

Thus the reason why many Toyota RVs came with a 32 or 35 PSI recommendation for the rear - even with the 8-ply rated tires.

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Over-inflating a tire alters the sidewall flex characteristics as well as the operating performance characteristics of the tire. Inflate too much and the vehicle might be described as feeling like it’s riding on bowling balls. This should be a fair warning that the tire performance characteristics are not balanced with the suspension designs. It should be expected, then, that traction, stopping distance and handling characteristics have been altered to a degree that increases the risk of losing control of the vehicle.

The elevation of those risks increases the probability that the vehicle will not stop as expected and also increases the risk that the vehicle can become unstable in curves, especially on high speed roads and exit ramps.

Most troubling of all is the increased vulnerability to hydro-planing to which an over inflated tire is exposed. The shorter and smaller the adhesion patch the more vulnerable a tire is to hydo-planing, as a short adhesion patch does not have as much “time” to “squeeze” water into the tread grooves. Instead, the water will ingress between the tire tread and the road surface, literally “lifting” the tire off the road. The effect is worse than driving on black ice. It is unnecessary to explain that the consequences of such an effect are unattractive.

 

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When talking about "over inflating" the tires are you saying inflated Above the max of 65 lbs.? I don't consider a tire inflated to the max of 65 lbs. to be over inflated or is it??

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2 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

When talking about "over inflating" the tires are you saying inflated Above the max of 65 lbs.? I don't consider a tire inflated to the max of 65 lbs. to be over inflated or is it??

Seems to be the $64 question of this post.  There is the max pressure the tire can be safely inflated to.  That is the max rating that is on the tire.  The larger discussion being had here is proper inflation for proper handling and safety.  This is calculated by the load the tire carries and that is what some here are discussing.  jjrbus probably had the most succinct explanation of the discussion as to why.  I suggest re-reading it carefully if it still is not clear.  Perhaps if you view over inflation of a tire as having two separate definitions it might make more sense to you.  There is pressure the tire itself can handle.  Then what the tire should be inflated to to provide proper traction and handling to maximize safety.

Totem indicated in part that none of this made any difference for a number of reasons, one being that a Toyota RV isn't being driven fast.  In my first comment on this, I indicated there was a lot he was missing.  He was totally focused on one characteristic of the tire, fuel economy.  There is only one condition where I inflate my tires for such a limited reason.  That is to travel over sand ocean side.  Beach sand here is really loose.  So in order to travel without getting stuck, it is required as a condition of my permit to reduce the tire pressure to as little as 9 psi. This is an extreme example of maximizing the contact area of a tire.  The mantra in this case is low and slow.  You'll run into plenty of people who thought they knew better and end up burying themselves in the sand because they didn't reduce the pressure of their tires.

I don't know too many people who would choose fuel savings over self preservation. 

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Thanks Back East, I always enjoy your answers to mine and others on this forum Man!!

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