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City driving is hell! Do remodels help with the clunkiness?


Dgillies

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I just wanted to throw this out there aNd see if any of you are using your sunrader as a daily driver?

 

this was my intention when i bought it. But immediately upon returning to seattle (more pot holes than people) i realized that every little crack in the road it felt like it was dealing fatal blows to my suspension, Very loud indeed....

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Not exactly daily driver but I work one week a month in San Jose, Ca where I used to live, 350 miles from where I live now. For that week I drive my camper to work from my parking spot every day, go to the grocery store and visit friends. Not an uncomfortable ride at all but it is a truck. Mine is an 86 and I do kind of need new shocks but they aren't completely gone. I was lucky. I found these groups before I bought. I knew more or less what to look for and it took me a very long time to find the right one.

Sounds like you need new shocks and maybe some suspension work.

Linda S

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hello, i believe linda is correct.  based on the fact your rig is an 81, and not knowing if any upgrades have been made to the suspension, you may benefit from looking over the front end. new shocks, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. also the rear end shocks , look at the springs and air bags may be helpfull.  my friend has an 85 granville, he basically replaced all the front end componets, and new shocks on the rear and he is very happy with the handling and enjoys a very smooth, quite, ride now. parts are available and in the overall not that expensive. good luck.  joe from dover

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As one of my best buddy hunkaman stated and also Linda it seems like you need suspension work. Your rig shouldn't ride rough. My 85 Granville was a total mess from sitting for years. Suspension shot due to dry rot. Had to spend some bucks but after complete front end replacement (shock, ball joints, etc) and new rear shocks (used bilsteins all around) she drives smooth! Also as Derek up North recommended I lowered the air pressure to 55lbs. Front and 60lbs. Rear from 65lbs. all around which made a hugh difference in the ride comfort. Good Luck!

 

 

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lately I am thinking back to something Derek UpNorth said also.. that air bags are not a substitute for properly arched springs...My springs are flatter than a beer at a Clinton rally and as such i keep my bags aired at 100 psi to psuedo arch them, and get some loud bangs on pot holes as the bags take the hit and collapse the shocks to the bump stops. If only there was an aftermarket spring available that someone could recommend by part number that didn't require 18 mathematically precise dimensions from a custom spring shop...to forge by hand.

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41 minutes ago, Totem said:

lately I am thinking back to something Derek UpNorth said also.. that air bags are not a substitute for properly arched springs...My springs are flatter than a beer at a Clinton rally and as such i keep my bags aired at 100 psi to psuedo arch them, and get some loud bangs on pot holes as the bags take the hit and collapse the shocks to the bump stops. If only there was an aftermarket spring available that someone could recommend by part number that didn't require 18 mathematically precise dimensions from a custom spring shop...to forge by hand.

Here

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7485

Linda S

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3 hours ago, linda s said:

yeah but wouldnt those just be for a truck and not up to the job of our camper? - maybe i could buy those and add them to the current ones? that gets me into all new parts at under $500 in parts cost.

Edited by Totem
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Just now, Totem said:

Yeah, but I dont have a Frankenstein Axle, so the Toyota ones would be my preference to custom as mentioned.

Yes I'm just showing because they added 2 leafs on each side which can be done. 

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Just now, zulandio said:

Yes I'm just showing because they added 2 leafs on each side which can be done. 

indeed, i just got done reading that thread and was thinking about getting some skyjackers and adding them to toyotas until Linda posted the Toyotas.. which are dang near the same price.

Seems i could pilfer a couple small leafs from my old pack and add them to the new one and have a nice setup.

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1 minute ago, zulandio said:

They even sell add a leaf kits at the same site as the leaf kit. 

I'mm well past add a leaf. My main leafs are flat and useless. a new pack coupled with stealing a couple from the old pack should work though and be pretty progressive.

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27 minutes ago, Totem said:

yeah but wouldnt those just be for a truck and not up to the job of our camper? - maybe i could buy those and add them to the current ones?

That's the 5 leaf spring our campers came with. But new. Look again. It says cab and chassis

Linda S

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To properly do the rear spring packs will run about $1000 for the springs and bushings. Short cuts are just for someone trying to do a quick sale.

 

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12 minutes ago, WME said:

To properly do the rear spring packs will run about $1000 for the springs and bushings. Short cuts are just for someone trying to do a quick sale.

 

I have no problem paying for it to be proper; just not sure what is proper?

One the one hand I know helper springs and add a leafs create a stiffer rougher ride but add height and travel. I also know that the part linda showed takes my rig back to its 0 day newness where ride quality was the best it ever was. So for me the curiosity is what the definition of "to do properly"...does doing it properly result in a stiffer ride with more clunk??

Edited by Totem
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Do it right means new springs with the proper leaf count, 6 or 7. The rear spring bushing are just as important as a proper spring in controlling the bumps and bangs the OP was talking about.

Air shocks, re-arching, booster coils on shocks are all short cuts. The ZUK mod has possibilities if the booster spring is quality.

A properly sprung Toyota MH will sit level when its empty, you use the airbags to trim it back to level, not carry the weight. 

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1 hour ago, WME said:

Do it right means new springs with the proper leaf count, 6 or 7. The rear spring bushing are just as important as a proper spring in controlling the bumps and bangs the OP was talking about.

Air shocks, re-arching, booster coils on shocks are all short cuts. The ZUK mod has possibilities if the booster spring is quality.

A properly sprung Toyota MH will sit level when its empty, you use the airbags to trim it back to level, not carry the weight. 

well then, if my eyes work well the part linda shows has 6 indeed 6 leafs total. why not then just put two of those in (right and left rears) remove olds and use new bushings and grease fitting bolts that gets me into all new parts at under $500 in parts cost. Thats me counting the layers in the picture... on the stats it says 3/2 leafs... perhaps someone could explain that number to us ignorant types like myself

Edited by Totem
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No the part I posted said 3/2 springs which makes 5. That is what Toyota shipped all the full float dual wheel chassis with. Here's an example of the part number for a double wheel V6. Discontinued but clearly says 5 leaf. Showing the V6 so you guys can see it wasn't upgraded in later years but mine is the same.

Linda S

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~spring~assy~rear~lh~48210-35710.html?Make=Toyota&Model=Pickup&Year=1990&Submodel=2+Wheel+Drive&Filter=()&Location=rear-spring-shock-absorber,,48210

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My Toy is sitting in a storage lot in Renton, I flew out of SEA recently.   I have declared Seattle one of the least RV friendly places I have been!

I see owners often recommending tires be inflated to 65psi.  I cannot imagine how rough and noisy their rides are.  Would be even worse in city driving.   I redid all my bushings, shocks and such and keep my airbags around 60 lbs.  Taking into consideration it is an old machine it is not bad  Jim

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I agree jjr had mine @ 65 lbs. all around jarring ride so took Derek's advice and lowered rears to 60 and fronts to 55 lbs. Much smoother ride!

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i air mine up to 65 and they naturally leak down to those parameters on their own :). Its worth the bangs for the bucks of mpg.

Edited by Totem
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7 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

What improvement have you achieved? Methodology? (No video required! :) )

squishy tires equate to poor gas mileage.... so yeah $. I guess in canada money is handed out but here in the USA we have to work for it :)

 

The U.S. Department of Energy says that for every 1-psi drop in pressure, you can expect your gas mileage to lower by 0.4 percent.  4% (from being 10 psi low) rounded up is 1 MPG if we assume a 17 mpg claim whereby someone is most likely selling their RV.

 

 

 

Edited by Totem
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RA08s are 65psi and by far the most popular tire in the USA and in this forum I believe.

In short for those of you running hankook Ra08s under inflated at best you arent getting the true MPG potential of your RV and at worst you are damaging your tires.

And if you are still running the tires that were shipped with your toyota, you probably should get some Ra08's on the double.

Edited by Totem
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Quote

 

Don't think they make the RA08 anymore. I bought the Nexen LT SV 820. Very nice tires with deep tread possibly M&S? They ride wonderful @ 55 lbs front & 60 lbs rear per Mr Derek's recommendations.

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8 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:

Don't think they make the RA08 anymore. I bought the Nexen LT SV 820. Very nice tires with deep tread possibly M&S? They ride wonderful @ 55 lbs front & 60 lbs rear per Mr Derek's recommendations.

It's an RA18 now but unfortunately no longer an all season tire.

Linda S

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9 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

I suppose they will still be some RA08s sitting in warehouses for a while even with the recently introduced RA18.

 

found em at sears. glad i found out they were discontinued... might buy some. RA18 still 65 PSI.

Edited by Totem
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Absolutely love the Nexens. I believe they're all seasons also!

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Enjoy your harsh ride @ 65 lbs. I think Derek posted how much gas you would save on a long trip driving @ 55-60 lbs for a smooth ride vs. 65lbs and it amounted to practically nothing (a few bucks!) Can't remember the specifics...ya there Derek??

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To much psi will wear your tires out faster. You need proper psi for the load.

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1 hour ago, WME said:

To much psi will wear your tires out faster. You need proper psi for the load.

i never once advocated to over-inflate; just inflate to the max spec by manufacturer. advocating running low on the other hand definitely will feather tires that cannot be rotated.

Edited by Totem
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