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I have the 3.0 v6 in my sea breeze, against all better judgement with what I have heard about these I still got it...

When I bought it it apparently didn't have a thermostat in it and I drove it home, 2.5 hours at 55-65. Once I pulled off the highway it started overheating and got it home with coolant boiling out.

I had a shop install a new thermostat, flushed the system, tested it under pressure, and supposedly drove it on the highway. Said it was fixed...

Drove it for the first time yesterday since it was "fixed" back in may and it over heated after 10 minutes at 25-50 max mostly going 35mhp. Same deal it had the needle in the red, pulled over and coolant boiling out. Had the heat on and it was just cold air.

I let it sit for about an hour and drove it home, the needle would jump up and down and the heat would also come and go. I drove it like a granny barely accelerating and going real easy and still was bubbling coolant when I got home.

Is it just a bad thermostat? Or am I looking at new water pump? God forbid head gasket! It has perfect compression so hoping and praying that's not the case.

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29 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Nothing to do with the thermostat. Air in the system. Needs 'burping'.

Ill have to look that up thank you! Any suggestions how to get her burped?

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The V-6 has a history of overheating IF the PO was not concerned with proper radiator maintenance, cure is usually a new radiator.

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You may find this helpful. The Toyota part # for replacement fluid is 08813-03001 you may have to order it.

There are many reasons to get air in the system. One bad reason the beginning of a blown head gasket. (A competent shop should have bleed the system) here is how you can. First there are 3 gasket surfaces on your radiator cap. the small button in the center is a vacuum break and allows fluid to return from the overflow reservoir upon cool down if stuck it will not work. The second is on the bottom of the cap it is necessary to pressurize the system. The third is the gasket outermost on the cap it prevents leakage forcing the overflow into reservoir an holds vacuum so the fluid can return if any of these are bad your system will not work correctly. If you fill the radiator up completely let it rest check again. when it will take no more install cap completely disconnect the highest heater hose on firewall fill with antifreeze and water as much as possible and reconnect. Make sure your overflow reservoir is at least half full. now put heat control to full heat and start. Let temperature get to normal check the level of the overflow reservoir it should be the same or higher. Now turn off and let cool no hurries here. when cooled down you should find the reservoir is lower as the fluid was drawn back into the engine after air was displaced if below half add more coolant.  You may hear air rushing thru the heater upon start it may take a few hot and cooling cycles for this to stop when it does the fluid level in the reservoir should rise and fall to consistent levels when hot and cold.

 

Good Luck

 

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A missing thermostat will never cause overheating, basically it could cause the opposite of that, not warming up.

So make sure there's no air in the system as explained and then continue to trouble shoot radiator, coolant system, fan, etc.

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On 9/18/2016 at 4:37 PM, bicoastal eric said:

A missing thermostat will never cause overheating, basically it could cause the opposite of that, not warming up.

So make sure there's no air in the system as explained and then continue to trouble shoot radiator, coolant system, fan, etc.

yup, sounds like air possibly, hard to tell without doing some diag.  Start by making sure the cooling system is free from air and go from there.

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  • 1 month later...

It's a blown head gasket? coolant in the combustion and very visible leak once they got in there. I got it fixed for an arm and a leg. Would have been cheaper replacing the whole engine. Runs like a champ now.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/1/2016 at 10:47 AM, DirtyPatches said:

It's a blown head gasket? coolant in the combustion and very visible leak once they got in there. I got it fixed for an arm and a leg. Would have been cheaper replacing the whole engine. Runs like a champ now.

What a bummer:(

Edited by redskinman
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On 11/1/2016 at 11:59 AM, linda s said:

unfortunately you might have been able to get the work done for free. Still an open service campaign on the head gasket for the 3.0 engine

Linda S

Tried that. My Vin number wasn't one of the ones on the recall list. Recommend everyone try that if they have the same issue!

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Yep that was my thought also you need to have the thermostat in place it is a compound thermostat that blocks off the radiator bypass when it warms up.

 

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