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Refrigerator not cold enough


Bigdog

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I've been looking and I can find lots of other people with the same problem online but no real answer. Can you give me the model number? Maybe I can track something down. Is this on all power sources? Does the gasket seal nicely. Little sucking when you open the door a a woosh when you push it closed tight. Will the freezer freeze a bottle of water or is it just cold.

Linda S

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Ive had this issue some times and sometimes my fins get so cold that they FREEZE food in the refrigerator ruining it also.

I believe the culprit is humidity, how level the RV is and the medium with which its being cooled. Propane by far will cool better than electric 12/120. also, so if you have a propane option always use it.

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On 8/17/2016 at 6:54 PM, Bigdog said:

Freezer working fine,

main compartment cooling blade's not  cold enough to keep food

from spoiling

 I have met many people with the same complaint. I cannot say I have ever experienced it myself - but it seems to be the #1 reason why many have yanked out their absorption refrigerators and replaced with electric.  I have also spoken with several people who spent big bucks getting new cooling units only to have the problem return. Can't say I have had any face-to-face contact with anyone that has resolved the problem long-term.  But to be fair - I rarely hear from people when things work good.  More often when there are problems.   I would make sure the air-venting is working because if air is not circulating, it cannot cool evenly.  Also keep in mind that the freezer and refrigerator section run in series with ammonia circulation as I recall. so in theory - if one works - the other HAS to work, although it might take 12-14 hours.  That assumes proper circulation of air and no gasket leaks in the door. Here is a sample discussion that sounds familiar.

Problem person #1

I have a Dometic two-door (freezer on top) unit, NDR 1062, in a 2007 Tiffin coach.

The cooling unit failed in October, 2011 and was replaced by a Viking replacement cooling unit which has worked fine. Until now. After leaving the Tiffin service center in Alabama a few days ago we have noticed that the refrigerator is not cooling properly. The freezer does a good job of freezing ice and keeping it frozen but the refrigerator is not much below ambient. Gas or electric does not seem to make any difference.

Problem person #2

Same story except this person bought an external fan kit.  Says it made no difference and he finally gave up and installed a compressor refrigerator.

Answer?

The "coolant" goes to the freezer first, then the refrigerator, so compromised cooling capacity affects the refrigerator first.

Start by making sure cooling capacity is maximized:

1. Defrost if more than 1/4" of ice.

2. Do the "dollar bill test" to verify that the door seals are snug.

3. Insure that the restrictor is in the bottom/outside end of the condensate drain.

4. Check that air flow in the bottom and out the top of the outside refrigerator area is unobstructed.

5. Particularly if the upper refrigerator outside vent is in the side vs roof, make sure there is no "dead space" above the refrigerator that can accumulate heat.

6. Do the burner area tune-up as outlined in your Dometic manual. Even a slight decrease in flame size can have a detrimental affect on cooling performance.

7. Lastly, use a manometer to verify propane pressure.

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I read on the internet by a poster that claimed to be a RV tech that the screens people add to keep bugs out will cause the fridge to not perform to it's full potential.

Good solid source, well not exactly, might be worth a try to take them out if you have the screens.    Jim

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  • 3 weeks later...

Over the years I have had several RVs here in South Texas.  Hot and humid is the weather forecast most all the time.  RV fridges have a hard time cooling well under these conditions. One solution I have used in years past is to place a small fan near the bottom of the coils at the back of the fridge and face the fan blowing up.  This forces air up through the coils and out the top.  Hot air rising and going out the top is what is supposed to happen in the first place but the fan just helps it to happen better.

I just got an 1986 Dolphin and that is one of my projects to do.  This fridge does not have DC in the back so I will have to find an AC fan.

 

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ive read that some folks wire in old PC computer fans into the fridge switch so that the fans come on if the fridge is in the "on" position.

The fans are cheap and can be easily replaced when they wear out also and have very little draw.

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A couple of cheap computer fans and a thermal snap switch and you have a fan cooling system that only works when the refer unit is cooling

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20 minutes ago, WME said:

A couple of cheap computer fans and a thermal snap switch and you have a fan cooling system that only works when the refer unit is cooling

even more efficient. I like this ^

Edited by Totem
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  • 9 months later...

Fridge not cold at all freezer over freezing no leaks: OK we all know about keeping ammonia hydrogen water mixed with heavy powder type rust neutralizer bullcrap fridges cold and level, did you realize extended periods of Use? Even more the a couple months! This is a major cause of death not just rust and leaks which you know immediately when one pops your lucky to get out be for it knocks you dead depending how bad and where by leaks folks if your Cooling coils going to the collector are hot almost all the way up and you have rust but no leaks this is blockage in flow for any ammonia hydrogen water rust neutralizer icing collecting particles causing fluid overflow dumping the cold vapor into the collector letting gas vapor escape when level! Jack the back two inches this helps from build up, if its on all the time use a heat dryer periodaclly to defrost your freezer while it is on high gas making sure its warming slow to 80° let it run for 5 minutes repeat this process enough I found it clears the icy particals gathering at the freezer dump port for fluid, twice I've almost got a icy fridge again I'll keep trying this process until my fridge goes dead or it clears and I see ice on the bottom of my fridge again then access the evaporator coil clean repair spray if only even a small leak it will seal and buy me time do not let these things over freeze to much or it freezes the water in the lines overheats the cooling coils and the yellow neutralizer can't break down with only vapor and no water mix because its frozen in the freezer part even with that door off. Reaching so far up the fridge port plugs from lack of flow your either replacing everything or flipping it upside down a bunch of times, I have nearly restored my dometic 2400 fairly rusted just about to check out the evaporator. Folks there is a life saver for these fridges when they plug and rust first all paint has to be removed to get to all the rust everywhere not a easy process still installed can cause fire if everything isn't stone cold, rustoleum sells a marine spray 7785 is the product number only in stock and ten bucks at a boat shop or 32$ from home depot really only takes 12,oz and i still have some left it is a zinc rust neutralizer galvanizing compound chem dip in a can that not only kills rust but permanently soaks into any rust and cannot even be sanded off its mixed with its own primer sand and sand nothing but clean hard metal shining in the light, if you can reach everything with a small brush you just added ten years too those steel tubes spraying a good few coats on and the evaporator tube if you can get to it without damaging very fragile 16th" steel rusted to half that. Just dont light yourself on fire like I did this spray is highly! Flammable. I'll update on this tweaky fridge got freezing cold up until three weeks ago really and then water froze in the evaporator too my freezer blocking the fridge section because of the overfill tube then heat completely knocked my fridge evaporator dead from excess vapor keeping it level did this and letting my freezer not defrost enough I'm using a heat gun to slowly heat the blocked section and force warm vapor through with my gas on high pushing that vapor into the freezer section too the same part of the evap tube that runs my fridge two light defrosts already working better with minimum gas heating it. Alright third defrost after over freezing the freezer and its working like new again, the warm vapor thats supposed to be cold I applied defrosted the water inside the plumbing enough times that the entire plumbing cleared almost whole fin is iced over uniformly at lowest settings, collector position helped with fluid collecting at the front most part where the cooling tube feeds into is no longer letting warm vapor escape back up keeping it level definitely did this but every dometic model has a different collector level position just keeping the back of it slightly higher then the cooling tube dump location gets perfect evaporation, now I just have to get the inside apart so I can inspect and repair the steel evaporator tube my spray Chem dip will add ten years too that steel.

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14 hours ago, Joseph said:

Fridge not cold at all freezer over freezing no leaks: OK we all know about keeping ammonia hydrogen water mixed with heavy powder type rust neutralizer bullcrap fridges cold and level, did you realize extended periods of Use? Even more the a couple months! This is a major cause of death not just rust and leaks which you know immediately when one pops your lucky to get out be for it knocks you dead depending how bad and where by leaks folks if your Cooling coils going to the collector are hot almost all the way up and you have rust but no leaks this is blockage in flow for any ammonia hydrogen water rust neutralizer icing collecting particles causing fluid overflow dumping the cold vapor into the collector letting gas vapor escape when level! Jack the back two inches this helps from build up, if its on all the time use a heat dryer periodaclly to defrost your freezer while it is on high gas making sure its warming slow to 80° let it run for 5 minutes repeat this process enough I found it clears the icy particals gathering at the freezer dump port for fluid, twice I've almost got a icy fridge again I'll keep trying this process until my fridge goes dead or it clears and I see ice on the bottom of my fridge again then access the evaporator coil clean repair spray if only even a small leak it will seal and buy me time do not let these things over freeze to much or it freezes the water in the lines overheats the cooling coils and the yellow neutralizer can't break down with only vapor and no water mix because its frozen in the freezer part even with that door off. Reaching so far up the fridge port plugs from lack of flow your either replacing everything or flipping it upside down a bunch of times, I have nearly restored my dometic 2400 fairly rusted just about to check out the evaporator. Folks there is a life saver for these fridges when they plug and rust first all paint has to be removed to get to all the rust everywhere not a easy process still installed can cause fire if everything isn't stone cold, rustoleum sells a marine spray 7785 is the product number only in stock and ten bucks at a boat shop or 32$ from home depot really only takes 12,oz and i still have some left it is a zinc rust neutralizer galvanizing compound chem dip in a can that not only kills rust but permanently soaks into any rust and cannot even be sanded off its mixed with its own primer sand and sand nothing but clean hard metal shining in the light, if you can reach everything with a small brush you just added ten years too those steel tubes spraying a good few coats on and the evaporator tube if you can get to it without damaging very fragile 16th" steel rusted to half that. Just dont light yourself on fire like I did this spray is highly! Flammable. I'll update on this tweaky fridge got freezing cold up until three weeks ago really and then water froze in the evaporator too my freezer blocking the fridge section because of the overfill tube then heat completely knocked my fridge evaporator dead from excess vapor keeping it level did this and letting my freezer not defrost enough I'm using a heat gun to slowly heat the blocked section and force warm vapor through with my gas on high pushing that vapor into the freezer section too the same part of the evap tube that runs my fridge two light defrosts already working better with minimum gas heating it. Alright third defrost after over freezing the freezer and its working like new again, the warm vapor thats supposed to be cold I applied defrosted the water inside the plumbing enough times that the entire plumbing cleared almost whole fin is iced over uniformly at lowest settings, collector position helped with fluid collecting at the front most part where the cooling tube feeds into is no longer letting warm vapor escape back up keeping it level definitely did this but every dometic model has a different collector level position just keeping the back of it slightly higher then the cooling tube dump location gets perfect evaporation, now I just have to get the inside apart so I can inspect and repair the steel evaporator tube my spray Chem dip will add ten years too that steel.

What was that?? My last one was 30 years old I turned it on it cooled things I turned it off. My latest is 27 years old I turn it on it keeps my ice cream frozen I turn it off am I missing some thing? No matter what the fridge can not cool below XX degrees vers outside temp a fan on the condenser helps but you are still against the wall it is what it is if it's real hot you fridge will suffer its inside temp will climb. If it's cold outside your stuff will freeze if you don't turn it down.  

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And for the using them too much makes them fail. Lots of people use them in their house. Same people who use propane for heating and cooking. They are on all the time like your home fridge. I kept my fridge cold for most of the last 10 years. Liked not having to take all my condiments out every time I came home and put them all back to go camping again. Still works perfect. In fact I'm about to go get my Hagen Das out of it. Long drive I need a treat

Linda S

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Linda is right my crappy one will calcify and quit working right after more then a couple months but I haven't finished flushing it I expect ten years when I am done if this galvanizing compound can be applied everywhere rust is, most fridges the bigger models go for a life time no problems but I dont need a fan even in 90° weather temperature inside still stays somewhat frozen on the bottom, mine had been sitting out of level for twenty years near sea water run constantly its this rvs third replacement fridge rarely driven fresh rebuilt motor and adding a 5000 btu ac unit above a smaller dometic just got one for 80$ I will install perfect size and weight, will install a ac vent van then to blow hot air out the top of the vent. So of course anything that old who knows what happens you just gotta think it through. I got lucky no leaks. Collector is meant on my model to sit front end low if you look at the level it flows better gets colder I dont even bother with a freezer door now doesn't need one

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I have certification in almost any form of heating and cooling cars and homes, a refrigerator in the grave I not only Chem dipped and sealed so it could never rust again was a hopless dead weight without flipping it upside down tons of times I learned how to flush the lines using thermal macgyvering to uncoke and decalcify the plumbing on the exhaust port I guarantee my fridge will still be working in 100 years clean as can be no rust just a slightly calcified line like what coolant does to your radiator if left in to long causing acidity? 20$ was better then 1600$ and my collector was built to sit level only with the back end at least over a inch. This caused pipe freezing loss of water mixture and vapor lock a killer on these fridges even the Amish ones I've found are not all good functioning requiring constant maintenance or they are dead in three years or less dometic require service every year sooner if always used or they rot into dust causing fire with some models at any time with nearly a pound of hydrogen and a pint almost of industrial ammonia that can cause death with one good wiff, toxic water and powdered rust neutralizer ya I wanna die from that 

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Most of our refrigerators are 30 years old and have never had anything done to them and they work just fine. Maybe yours would work better if you left it alone. Darn I don't have any Hagen Das left in my very cold 1986 freezer.

Linda S

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It sat in a very rusty environment thats a huge part of the problem last owner couldn't get two years out of it after replacing the entire boiler and cooler assembly with a new one it sat right next to coastal waters for almost 20 years I'm not worried now just have to defrost the freezer a few more times and it will be golden already near perfect running shape again and it was completely dead! I've never seen one get so bad and not leak I got lucky rust was everywhere along with bugs nests and melted wiring ac and DC going to things long torn off shorted my electrical to charge my battery I had to install a switch and a relay 400$ box dead except for my charging transformer I rigged temporary

 

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check your door seals.  Bad door seals or doors closed by pushing top corner will never cool right.

Keep the door closed - as much as possible.

Do not over fill the frig -  air has to move a bit.

Make sure the chimney is not obstructed

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I have the Dometic 2410.Since buying rv have only camped in it twice and both times fridge did not work correctly but it did in the driveway when I tested it a couple months ago.Hooked up to electric in driveway couple months ago,froze bottle of water overnight and water was cold in fridge.Took off for 1 night trip yesterday but had RV hooked up in driveway to get fridge cold day before we left,This trip I just took freezer was working somewhat but didnt freeze a bottle of water but about 1/2 way,fridge didnt feel like it was cool at all.Tubes were very warm in back of fridge.I see PO has installed bug screens,guess I will try removing them and see if hooking up a fan in there will help,any other suggestions? I ran it on propane for about 4 hrs but it didnt seem to work any better.

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Linda was right should have left it alone as soon as I let the freezer defrost completely it died almost completely I then noticed behind evaporator fin rust coming from the top and noticed funny soft bubbles all over bottom of freezer plastic it had been leaking for months couldn't get the inside apart fast enough to save it only enough vapor left to use ice in the freezer to keep things dripping cold in fridge section found a new one a few miles away for 800$ but I'm spending 660 bucks a month just surviving all my income a impossible fix I hate this rv just keeps falling apart and my bank account keeps getting stripped clean I wonder which one of us dies first.

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Look for another one its dead evaporator rotted out and is leaking in I didnt smell anything or see anything but soft spots underneath plastic freezer bottom confirmed it rotted and all leaked out dry ice is the only thing getting it cold if you stick some in your freezer and everything freezes up and works right it leaked out all its fluid almost out of the evaporator.

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Dry ice next to rusted damp cooling pipes is a sure way to completely break them apart. Very cold also means very brittle. Here's a used but newer model fridge for 550

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/rvd/6192149953.html

Linda S

Cheaper used refrigerators come up on craigslist all the time. Also look for RV's and campers being parted out. If there's a salvage yard near Portland that has RV's there might be one there too.

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Ya I knew that thats why I was so careful working the plug out put the dry ice in bottom of fridge at first until freezer froze up again but its been a month nothing I could do could save it just to rotted out it was already leaking when I got it did my best not to let the pipes expand or contract to quickly but evap is completely rotted out certain death, generator was jerry rigged no outlet for heat keeps overheating absolutely no air vents boiling gas.

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There are no cooler lines on the bottom of the gas fridge. My 1987 toyhome had the original fridge my1990 camper has the original fridge they both work fine. there is nothing in the gas fridge that is separate if it has a leak it's all done nothing half way it can't just leak in one spot and have part of it still work. 

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4 hours ago, redskinman said:

I have the Dometic 2410.Since buying rv have only camped in it twice and both times fridge did not work correctly but it did in the driveway when I tested it a couple months ago.Hooked up to electric in driveway couple months ago,froze bottle of water overnight and water was cold in fridge.Took off for 1 night trip yesterday but had RV hooked up in driveway to get fridge cold day before we left,This trip I just took freezer was working somewhat but didnt freeze a bottle of water but about 1/2 way,fridge didnt feel like it was cool at all.Tubes were very warm in back of fridge.I see PO has installed bug screens,guess I will try removing them and see if hooking up a fan in there will help,any other suggestions? I ran it on propane for about 4 hrs but it didnt seem to work any better.

How hot was the weather? It will only cool to X degrees below ambient so if you started off with a cool morning  and went out in 90+ weather that maybe the answer. They cool VERY well when it's 40* out! 

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A fan will help the fridge work in hot weather. They sell them on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Norcold-RV-Camper-Refrigerator-Cooling-Fan-Ventilator-120mm-Instruct-/122070585923?epid=1539661778&hash=item1c6bf95243:g:AgUAAOxyUWtSUZkE&vxp=mtr

They also sell fans for the inside to move air around for better cooling.

I have hung a wet sheet over the outside vents to save my food in hundred+ degree weather. Worked

Linda S

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2 hours ago, Maineah said:

How hot was the weather? It will only cool to X degrees below ambient so if you started off with a cool morning  and went out in 90+ weather that maybe the answer. They cool VERY well when it's 40* out! 

Well its Texas! lol

Yeah it was hot but this may be my first Toyota its not my first rv and trust me its not working right.The other rvs I've owned have had no problems in the tx weather,sometimes the fridge wouldnt be as cold as I like but if I have brought them home and plugged them in while sitting in the driveway by the next morning a bottle of water that was in freezer is frozen,that hasnt been the case with this rv except the first time I tested it a couple months ago.Of course the weather was cooler then but like I said it hasnt been a problem for any other of my rvs including the Toyhauler I currently own also.

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2 hours ago, linda s said:

A fan will help the fridge work in hot weather. They sell them on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-Norcold-RV-Camper-Refrigerator-Cooling-Fan-Ventilator-120mm-Instruct-/122070585923?epid=1539661778&hash=item1c6bf95243:g:AgUAAOxyUWtSUZkE&vxp=mtr

They also sell fans for the inside to move air around for better cooling.

I have hung a wet sheet over the outside vents to save my food in hundred+ degree weather. Worked

Linda S

Thanks Linda I might try that.I think I will just stick a small fan in there overnight one day and see if it helps before I buy one of these.

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Uh ya they can work, mine leaked to a point and stopped no smell looked at insulation hiding beneath evaporator dry no colors or smells or moisture, let me retract a statement all though in this case my fridge was only dripping cold and freezer never use dry ice to freeze things up again (expansion/contraction hot/cold) in extremes will destroy a steel rusted pipe I got lucky my freezer is staying frozen on its own and my fridge section starting to freeze again with help of normal ice, if your fridge is only partially cold check the heat coming off your boiler stack, collector and the drain line going to it both of them also check the two lines running into the evaporator. Stack should be hot on high with boiler tube flame can't be orange from rust, everything from the collector up should be only partially warm to the touch not hot. The two tubes running off the condenser from the top too the inside and smaller collector tube should be same temperature neither should be hot of all three smaller or the bigger drain or cooling tubes too the collector the large tank. If it starts working right again with the help of ice its generally a leak you won't see or smell unless you look at the plastic near the freezer evaporator tubing see bubbles something has probably leaked or even rusted water leaking out. If freezer alone gets cold your evaporator tubing is still screwed it means rust and crud have blocked off a tube or caused a leak in which it has months at best without assistance. But in any case both freezer aluminum and fridge fins freezing with assistance of ice alone in the freezer indicates,low fluid overheats everything into a vapor causing draining coils to overheat along with everything else. Best to buy new this was a used rebuild only two years old off a 84 dometic Rm 2400 I'm going to attempt to buy a new one for 800$ only a few miles from here a dometic 2410 brand new near lifetime warranty if they haven't sold it by the time I get there. I'd like to save this one still works just needs ice help but to refill it I would need a special attachment and my refrigerant recovery pump then know exactly how much of which to add from a pint of mix seal up the evaporator tubing with zinc galvanizing compound I'm done getting a,new one this one is to rotted the more they warm up and cool when being used destroys them rusts the hell out of the evaporator if I get that fridge I'll send pictures,of where the failure is and why you dont smell it. Its freezing again although leaked water all over lower drawer destroying dog turd composite wood screws everywhere all warped it shredded into pieces this dolphin dont like me, oh and on high everything above the collector is back at room temperature before it would burn you definitely lost fluids why it would stop my only conclusion was response time I used normal ice to freeze everything over again removed freezer door then on the bottom slowly used dry ice in between ice bags  to get all the evaporator tubing completely frozen again fluid started to build again from cold vapor and I got a cheap temporary fix eventually it will die completely.

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Rusty piping on the outside doesn't count other than rusting through from the outside if left alone that's where the leaks come from. The O2 in the inside of the piping just is not there no O2 no rust  It is a wet mix, ammonia water and hydrogen gas it is not like any form of freon if you connect a freon vacuum pump to it it will trash the pump. Ammonia reacts quickly with zinc and the result is not nice. The evaporator tubing will be warm/hot to the touch is it's where the heat inside the fridge goes that is part of the cycle.

 

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The more I have studied these smaller dometics I have found most ppl get three years to ten years out of their fridge depending on how its taken care of and used, no clue how I'm going to move all this weight around in my condition Monday getting a 2410, 3 versions of these smaller fridges and this appears to be its third one replaced by me, if the back is getting to hot it means you have mostly just vapor left and no fluid I would show you why but I can't dispose of my fridge if I bust the evaporator tubing out they won't take it, these things have no way of draining water in anyway thats what screws them in a normal fridge defrosting and drying the evaporator is done on automatic cycles as to prevent corrosion and freeze damage in these nothing, as soon as you park it and stop using the fridge water starts destroying the evaporator tubing which could be one or three different ones depending on model because the condensation has nowhere to go, their fix for this is to seal the entire guts of the thing and put it in a vacuum so that oxygen can't rot the tubing with water all around it, there can be no tears in the fragile backing if there is your in trouble say goodnight that fridge is done rust process has already started, the 2410 has a three year warranty new I'm getting not Amish repaired or built the tubing is black thats how I could tell. They are not worth repairing unless its a burner or electrical problem not allowing it to boil liquid, if its getting to hot good luck getting another year out of it unless rust is causing a orange flame piled in the burner jet which causes it to overheat I felt the back of a working one in 90° weather it was barely warm from the collector tank up, the way it always should be but with nowhere for the water to go its best to leave them on low 24/7 at least if your not using it or eventually water damage occurs leaving pinhole leaks everywhere inside you generally dont smell as leaks these develop are extremely small I'm only now just smelling something funny and there is no liquid left its all sitting below the evaporators top and bottom of freezer in the insulation sealed so tight not even a fart could squeak out not worth fixing but if you want it to last always leave it on except if the freezer is over freezing then shut it down for a week and restart it should even out but you have just let your steel tubing gather rust you would think aluminum would be a better choice or stainless steel but no these fridges are as cheap as you can get thats why a Nordic I looked at or however its spelled same size would have worked 10 year warranty 1600$ instead of 800$ like a new dometic purchased from a rv refrigeration garage which online is about 1500$ plus shipping for the same damn one! If its dead find a rv shop that specializes in refrigeration or you shoot yourself in the foot they are not worth replacing the entire cooler and boiler assembly and it won't last and they are not fun to replace in any rv just get a new one another person and look on YouTube you can replace it yourself if your extremely careful how you handle it the worst part is getting it out the cab door. I've seen one person do it by himself in a hour but he prepared.

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Most fridge failures are self inflicted. They do not do well unless they are either in motion or are semi level. I don't know why you seem to have issues most of these things are still in use 30 years on. They do not make the tubes out of aluminum because the ammonia will react with the aluminum guess you never read about ammonia and aluminum pans, There is a good deal of science involved with absorption refrigerators you may benefit from some of the articles that are out there.   

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Just got my fridge in yesterday morning being sold as new by laurelhurst distribution in Oregon dometic 2410 was in a rush couldn't video everything in the heat I got scammed learned it had been dropped hard enough to crack the inside only after installation, it doesn't even work as good as my almost dead 2400 did everything by the letter slid in no problem didnt even bump the cabinets tubing and condensor no scuffs or scratches everything level no overheating lit right up hot stack good flame garbage fridge back to using melted ice for a ice box I'm pissed I am getting my money back keeping the fridge until I get a new one from them undamaged I'll show pics tomorrow everything is screwed right now being homeless sucks scam after scam after scam condensor is only a millimeter from back of wall it sits in the cabinet so deep dip shit set it on its back handing too me grabbed it before it got damage I thought never even josseled it even in transport tubing seems alright everything is still sealed then I learned the 2410 has the worst rating out of all the dometics 5 year warranty explaining why it had been covered in dust no plastic covering totally scammed never buy anything from this distributor all appliances they sell are unpackaged proving Damaged goods they sell as new. No clue how I'm going to fix this with no money no home dying in this heat blowing through gas on every hill horribly. This is not a overheating issue had it at 45° this afternoon freezer just barely freezing took the ice out turned it down to low as outside temperature is so hot doesn't take anything to get the stack boiling in the heat using propane. So pissed and someone slashed my back tire on the inside part of the wall no money to fix it and lost another doctor again everyone thinking I must have a drug or alcohol problem when every test proves otherwise I can't drink or do drugs I can't afford it!!! Been sober for more then twenty years!!!!

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Here are some pictures I think you should be able to see where my old one went wrong where the burned up hole going to the evap is, fridge is OK I learned the 2410 specifically has to have the condenser no more then 1/4" from the wall 1/8" preferable to work right have to tweak with the new vent cover not circulating properly old one melted down, mechanic says his he tossed his fan says it works just fine and it froze up in no time in the shop so heat is a issue and all the stink bug nests plugging up everything didnt help still won't sit flush but I dont care as long as it works not happy about the busted burner but I got a new one told no dometics 2410 exist anymore a million new ones on line and a dozen in their shop and its a item that no longer exists right not going there again for any reason tried to take my fridge and theirs back when it started working kinda hokey if you ask me what they pulled but if I can get the cover to circulate it should be OK although originally it did have fan wires cut for a thermostatically controlled unit and recommended mainly for this model fridge and only one more as it sits so deep, in here are some shitty pics I was cleaning out stink bug nests for hours just kept finding them all over the cabinet and originally it did have a 2410 found mounting screws in different locations further towards wall heat had me pressed for time20170703_221401-1328x747.thumb.jpg.bf484392c95a5be0315c7f8b9ecbd559.jpg

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Oh and the 2410 I learned from another rver is supposed to be a well built fridge after 2014 build date tubing is hardened stainless steel nearly 1/8" thick! Bigger then most all of the other for tubing thickness supposedly nearly indestructible I was shown this when the foreman for the shop stood on top of a new one they were junking a 2514 I believe just no freezer forget and jumped on the tubing with full weight it did not even budge or bend, steel instead of cardboard is used to back and insulate the evap on this model it is completely vacuum sealed now if I can just get the cover adjusted just right still I dont trust that distributor but damn that tubing is nearly indestructible on that model I was shocked not even the plastic broke and he was jumping on it he weighed 170 from my estimate I'm thinking they remodeled it after 2014 they look the same but completely different way better construction. Just quarky about needing good circulation air has to be drawn up from the heat of the condenser if not no get cold in fridge insulation is one thing I will be doing next that should help only getting fire proof stuff though with bugs and their nests dont need another fire they need super good circulation to really work right and the appropriate dometic top cover adjustable 25$ its worth it comes with a screen I'm sure thats why so many are having issues right now the heat and a crappy cover dont mix mine melted down it wasn't letting hot air out at all a Nordic cover and I did look it up Nordic makes two models that fit our dolphins with only slight cut too top of cabinet thats what I'm going for when I get enough saved up for ac more expensive but way colder units, my dometic 1000 BTUs a hour, the Nordic I looked at 2800 BTUs not sure what model it was but it only sat half a inch higher in which there is generally already a quarter inch of space at the top or bottom depending on cabinet type and it was the same width and depth something to think of if your buying a new one just dont be a dip shit like me rush things only to learn your top hat is melting into the inside no time to get a pic had to scram back for legal purposes a fight I probably won't win unless a miracle happens as if it mattered anyway my past present and future burned before my eyes no starting over again lost count. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD AMOUNT OF HEAT YOU CAN FEEL FROM THE TOP AS IF THE COVER IS OFF THIS IS A MUST AND WILL MAKE YOU THINK YOUR FRIDGE IS DEAD WHEN ITS JUST FINE LIKE MY OLD FRIDGE PROBABLY STILL WOULD HAVE WORKED IF I HAD CHECKED THAT SIMPLE ISSUE!!!! But it was beat to hell anyway two fires another person and me because of a stinkbug nest in the flew area at the top and extremely flammable aresol on a very hot exchanger burned all my facial hair off looked Indian with no eyebrows ?

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