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1 hour ago, Brynn&Cas said:

Luckily I made sure I could return it even after using it, or else I would have been more cautious haha. We have some other ideas such as possibly wiring a swich so we can either JUST run the a.c. or everything else. If that makes any sense. My father is pretty RV savvy so he has some idea of what he's doing, unlike me. Though I would be curious to see if it is really putting out the watts it says it is. We're going to try testing it on a few other things and see what happens. I'm honestly hoping it's defective but we'll see!

Thanks for your input!

They will let you return it after using, that is a surprise!   My search indicates they put out 1900 watts, not the 2200 continuous they advertise.    Jim

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12 hours ago, Brynn&Cas said:

Luckily I made sure I could return it even after using it, or else I would have been more cautious haha. We have some other ideas such as possibly wiring a swich so we can either JUST run the a.c. or everything else. If that makes any sense. My father is pretty RV savvy so he has some idea of what he's doing, unlike me. Though I would be curious to see if it is really putting out the watts it says it is. We're going to try testing it on a few other things and see what happens. I'm honestly hoping it's defective but we'll see!

Thanks for your input!

you shouldnt have returned it. you didnt add a supco... thats mandatory.

you must add the hard start capacitor thats where your other 5500 starting watts come from... go on amazon and order a supco spp6, not the spp6e.

happy trails and after adding the cap go test the same genny you returned. :)

 

Also what is your make and model of your AC unit and watts? and did you follow proper break in of the generator? you simply cannot take it out of the box and run a rooftop unit; break in must be observed and there is no way proper break in was observed based on the time passed since when you posted you would buy the generator and when you posted its fail... you cannot load a new genny motor right out of the box.

So heres whats wrong:

1.) unknown AC unit model, make and age and watt draw

2.) generator not broken in

3.) no hard start capacitor added to AC

4.) no following of the proper wiring (13500 must be straight wired not run off converter/breaker)

5.) you really should be using a 11000 BTU but it can run the 13500 if you do the above

6.) observe the proper starting technique

 

Edited by Totem
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10 hours ago, jjrbus said:

They will let you return it after using, that is a surprise!   My search indicates they put out 1900 watts, not the 2200 continuous they advertise.    Jim

-your search of the "military generator repair guy" that posted on HF?

funny... that guy has every known generator to man and decides to diss HF online without posting proof. much like some others i see in here. most verifiable posts on HF will put a video or picture of the measuring tools showing the fail. he did not.

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12 hours ago, Brynn&Cas said:

I literally laughed out loud! :lol:

i call troll...

read my advice and by the way you didnt break in the generator. not enough time passed. at least if you are going to come in here and mess with me be believable.

NEXT!

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I just bought a honda 1600 and ran it. it wouldnt even start and when it did start it wouldnt run a light bulb.

The leprechaun i bought it off of wouldnt take it back though because its horn fell off.

-see guys i can play this game too.

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13 hours ago, Maineah said:

You are lucky the Honeywell was rated one of the worst. All though my cheapy does continue to run, fuel line leak gasoline all over the floor. Fuel line shut off leak gasoline all over the floor. Fuel gauge disengaged, plastic parts through the entire fuel system, carb fuel leak gasket at the bowl no such a thing as kit new carb (not a big deal $16.95) but it's annoying things like that. Oil leak at low oil sensor oil leak at front crank seal. Honda used far harder oil change and fill with fuel. That’s why I won’t buy a cheap one that I need rely on.Your results may very.

Honeywell had two versions of the 2000i.  Early ones like mine were red.  Newer ones were white. I have no idea if there is any difference other then the color and cosmetics.  I had one problem with mine. It started leaking gas and I found out the little in-line plastic fuel-filter had a crack in it. So I had to buy a new filter down at my local NAPA for $4. Other then that, it has run flawlessly.

My first experience with an inverter-generator may of been with one of the first on the USA market.  Coleman 900 or 1000 watt with a two-stroke-cycle engine.  I always like Coleman stuff and like the idea it was from a USA company and would have product-support.  I don't care about product support in a conventional generator since much is generic.  But with an inverter-generator - there are some esoteric and complex electronics.  So, I used my new Coleman a few times and loved it.  Then when only two months old and used maybe a dozen times - it stopped working. It started fine, but would not "load-sense" and rev up and make power.  So I called Coleman tech and even though my unit was under warranty - they said I likely needed a new circuit board and they could not provide one.  They said they also had no new units to replace mine.  They gave me two options. See if I could find a new one still on the shelf somewhere and maybe a swap could be worked out, or they'd just give me a partial, pro-rated refund IF I paid to ship the unit back to them.  What a bunch of crap!    I was pretty shocked, especially since it is a rare event when I buy something new.   I then asked Coleman to send me a schematic of the circuit board so I could attempt to repair it myself.  They refused.  Tech guy said the circuit design was "proprietary" and could not be released. No wonder Coleman generator went bankrupt.   I sold it on Ebay for $75 and that was that.   I have had much better product support from Harbor Freight.

One comment on Honda.  I went to a Honda power-equipment dealer last year to order parts for the carburetor on my 1973 motorcycle.  No problem.  Parts were ordered and I had them a week later.  And yes, I could of done the same with a Google-search. My point is - Honda was pretty good about it.  MUCH better then Coleman with generators or Dometic with refrigerators.  Or Dodge with no parts for my 1998 van.  Or even Briggs & Stratton.  I have a four-stroke-cycle 5 horse outboard motor made by Briggs & Stratton. Pretty neat and not what I'd call "old"  2009 or 2010 vintage I think.  I just tried to order a new carb from Briggs and they say "obsolete."  I'm sure I can find one elsewhere, but the point is - so many companies I used to respect have awful support.  I can buy a brand new complete 3 horse outboard from China for $175. Makes me want to order two of them and not worry about support I may never get.

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11 hours ago, jjrbus said:

They will let you return it after using, that is a surprise!   My search indicates they put out 1900 watts, not the 2200 continuous they advertise.    Jim

I like to see some actual test specs.  I don't own an HF generator but know a few people who do and love them.  Watt-ratings can be misleading.   Amps at working voltage under load is more important - at least to me.  120 volts alternating-current is supposed to be 170 volts at both ends of the Hertz Cycle.  Many generators only run at 150 volts at the peaks and nadirs.  So one might be rated 2200 watts but be low voltage, while another might  be rated 2200 watts with higher voltage.  Obviously - if you plug in an air-conditioner and what is supposed to be an average of 120 volts is in effect 105 volts (very common with generators) - the rated amp-draw climbs. Just a product of Georg Ohm's Law.  A 2200 watt generator that can supply and average 120 volts @ 18 amps will often work better then a 2200 watt generator making an average of 105 volts @ 21 amps.

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Personally I love Honda. They are a great company and have great products. I drove an accord as my first car ... I am just absolutely refusing to believe that that their 1600 watt genny is running 13500 rooftop units in any way other than paired. I dont think they will run 11,000 watt roofs either.

I also agree with JDE, lets see some stats and evidence in here. So far i just see people making AC stories with the inten of leading me into frothing about this HF thing. show me your purchase receipt. And for the love of god if you are not messing with me and telling the truth at least have the decency to follow the generator break in procedure and learn how your circuit of power from generator to AC is setup.

Edited by Totem
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On 8/16/2016 at 9:18 AM, Totem said:

I don't care how you spend your money. just dont pee in the wind and tell me its raining..

I like the way the Outlaw Josey Wales said it in 1976 (Clint Eastwood). Great movie.

Don't piss down my back and tell me its raining 

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Okay. I may be the only one to rain on this parade. But I have to say this.

I hope none of you generator junkies are running these things in a campground where anyone else camps. We've had to leave places more than once because some inconsiderate arsehole pulls in and turns on his jet engine to power his AC. Even the more "quiet" generators are an extreme irritation when they drone on continuously throughout the day fifty feet from where we are camping. 

People who run generators in campgrounds are like the guy who lights up a cigar in an elevator. As long as he's getting his needs met, to hell with anyone else's rights.

You're camping guys. If you need to be cool, stay home or stay in a motel. If you have an old pet, as we do, stick to electric sites so you can run your AC. Otherwise, stay out of campgrounds where people like us are trying to enjoy nature and a little peace and quiet.

Harrumpff!!

Joe

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JMowrey, as mentioned in other threads, I personally run mine while driving to keep wife kids and pets cool in 98 + while en route to the camping.

I wont run them in parks, only in places like when I am shopping and the dog is in the rig .. If I offend a shopper coming out of walmart so be it.

As while driving - in motion on the freeway- I find my quiet is intruded on by the semis that pass me blaring their diesels and the irate high end sports cars with loud straight pipe mufflers to me offensive to my ears having all windows down and the wind whipping especially offensive. Other than that I agree with you. Weve had our RV reach over 106 inside while driving... so frankly thats why we are doing this.

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22 hours ago, jdemaris said:

Derek - I keep forgetting to ask.  You are from Lachute, Quebec, correct?   I am curious.  Was that name originally "Lac Hute" as in "Lake Hute?" or was it originally all one word with a different meaning?

Just noticed this among all the 'fluff'. :)

Two words:- la chute --> the fall (as in water)

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I think the OP of this thread is JJRBUS. after re-reading it.. its just darned too convenient.

they come in here and Join on Sunday, they compliment his hard work and all..

Come on JJ.. fess up.

if I am wrong I want pics of the RV at least from the OP. come on. you guys are messing with me right?

 

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38 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Just noticed this among all the 'fluff'. :)

Two words:- la chute --> the fall (as in water)

Thanks and interesting.  I had a feeling the "Lac" might not be for "lake, but was not sure.  Part of my family came from Saint-François-du-Lac and lived with the Bowl-Head Indians.

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32 minutes ago, Totem said:

I think the OP of this thread is JJRBUS. after re-reading it.. its just darned too convenient.

they come in here and Join on Sunday, they compliment his hard work and all..

Come on JJ.. fess up.

if I am wrong I want pics of the RV at least from the OP. come on. you guys are messing with me right?

 

I think you're losing it. 2 different IP addresses. 1 in Florida, 1 in Oregon. Nobody posting from the 'grassy knoll' though. :)

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38 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Sorry, but neither I nor Google seem to have heard of the 'Bowl Head Indians'. :)

BTW, Mohawks in these parts now.

Your Google must be defective (besides being spelled wrong by the creator).   Bowl-Head Indians are still in Canada and incorporated into the Atikamekw people.  Like most Indian names - they often get stuck with  derogatory names given to them by the French or English or sometimes other Indians.  I get lazy and use the term "Bowl-Head" because I get tired of trying to use French letter characters with my USA keyboard.  The name in Quebec (note even "Quebec" is supposed to have an aigu over the first "e" but it is too much work) - Bowl-Head spelled properly iis Tête de boule

 Like the Huron Indians here are really Oundats ("huron" is sort of meant "crude moron" in old French).  

Or "Iroquois" that is a French insult meaning "black snake."

Or "Adirondack" that is an insult meaning "bark eater."

Or "Mohawk" is an insult meaning "man eater."

The poor Bowl-Heads got their name from French priests in Quebec that forced the kids to become Christians and get bad haircuts. My family lived with them.

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2 hours ago, jdemaris said:

Amps at working voltage under load is more important - at least to me.  120 volts alternating-current is supposed to be 170 volts at both ends of the Hertz Cycle.  Many generators only run at 150 volts at the peaks and nadirs.  So one might be rated 2200 watts but be low voltage, while another might  be rated 2200 watts with higher voltage.

I had a oil furnace transformer that was unknowingly on its way out.  It tripped the burner a few times because the arc at the gap wasn't enough to ignite the spray (this is all knowledge after the fact).  The way I found it was happenstance.  Power went out and I plugged in my generator and the burner wouldn't fire at all.  I dig out my tools and my meter.  The Yamaha voltage just seemed a bit low to me so I dug out the manual.  Turns out there was a trim adjustment.  I raised the output voltage the regulator would maintain and sure enough the furnace fired right up.  I called the service company to come in a take a look at the furnace anyway.  After a couple hours trying to adjust it properly, it was determined that the transformer had a short somewhere in the windings.  Replaced it and it never tripped again.

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24 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

Your Google must be defective (besides being spelled wrong by the creator).   Bowl-Head Indians are still in Canada and incorporated into the Atikamekw people.  Like most Indian names - they often get stuck with  derogatory names given to them by the French or English or sometimes other Indians.  I get lazy and use the term "Bowl-Head" because I get tired of trying to use French letter characters with my USA keyboard.  The name in Quebec (note even "Quebec" is supposed to have an aigu over the first "e" but it is too much work) - Bowl-Head spelled properly iis Tête de boule

 Like the Huron Indians here are really Oundats ("huron" is sort of meant "crude moron" in old French).  

Or "Iroquois" that is a French insult meaning "black snake."

Or "Adirondack" that is an insult meaning "bark eater."

Or "Mohawk" is an insult meaning "man eater."

The poor Bowl-Heads got their name from French priests in Quebec that forced the kids to become Christians and get bad haircuts. My family lived with them.

Pretty common that names get butchered.  I'm Acadian.  The English relocated some of my brethren after some squabbles with France (seems that had gone on for a long time) and sent them to New Orleans.  Well the locals had just a wee bit of trouble with pronouncing Acadian (especially when someone french is telling you how to) and just settled on cajun.  My last name is just a butchered anglophile rendition of the original. 

My fore bearer was from Morlaix France and came to Quebec with his uncle who was a Bishop.  He spoke the native Micmak language along with French and English.  During the Revolutionary war, Washington sent men up to try to convince the native population in New Brunswick to join in the fight.  Joseph was the translator.  He advised them it was not in their interest and was rewarded by being robbed and having a barn burned down.  While those names may be derogatory, the early french worked with the native population far better than the subsequent English did.  In my opinion, the English just ruined the place but I have a French leaning bias.

Edited by Back East Don
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9 hours ago, Totem said:

i call troll...

read my advice and by the way you didnt break in the generator. not enough time passed. at least if you are going to come in here and mess with me be believable.

NEXT!

Like I said before, unless if you need me to quote myself on this, this is the  FIRST generator I have ever owned so, like I said before I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm on this site to maybe get some help, not to get some attitude from some guy on the internet . You could have mentioned all these other steps I had to go through to make it work in the beginning. I even asked about a hard start capacitorr in my very first post but  from what I recall you never mentioned it until now. So, back to the real problem at hand if you're done deciding I'm a troll. I was unaware that you have to break in a generator (remember, its my FIRST generator). Do you break it in by just running it, with a load, without a load? How will that help?

My airconditioner is a Duo-Therm by Dometic, it also says it's a Briskair. If my math is correct the watts it takes to start the ac unit is 7,620. To keep the unit running it takes 1,776 watts. In no way am I saying I did that correctly. So, if I install the hard start capacitor, you're saying it will take over 5,000 less to start the ac?

 

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7 hours ago, Totem said:

I think the OP of this thread is JJRBUS. after re-reading it.. its just darned too convenient.

they come in here and Join on Sunday, they compliment his hard work and all..

Come on JJ.. fess up.

if I am wrong I want pics of the RV at least from the OP. come on. you guys are messing with me right?

 

Okay, I'll give you a picture, I have nothing to hide. Why wouldn't I compliment JJrbus,, at least he's being nice and helpful.

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34 minutes ago, Brynn&Cas said:

Like I said before, unless if you need me to quote myself on this, this is the  FIRST generator I have ever owned so, like I said before I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm on this site to maybe get some help, not to get some attitude from some guy on the internet . You could have mentioned all these other steps I had to go through to make it work in the beginning. I even asked about a hard start capacitorr in my very first post but  from what I recall you never mentioned it until now. So, back to the real problem at hand if you're done deciding I'm a troll. I was unaware that you have to break in a generator (remember, its my FIRST generator). Do you break it in by just running it, with a load, without a load? How will that help?

My airconditioner is a Duo-Therm by Dometic, it also says it's a Briskair. If my math is correct the watts it takes to start the ac unit is 7,620. To keep the unit running it takes 1,776 watts. In no way am I saying I did that correctly. So, if I install the hard start capacitor, you're saying it will take over 5,000 less to start the ac?

 

  Don't bet the farm on the Supco being a magical cure all! It may or may not work.  Something else to think about is the 13.5 might be too large for your RV.  When I looked at the AC I thought that 9K BTU would be just about right. The available Coleman Polar cub is 9200 BTU but has too much negative feedback. And is not the most energy efficient unit.

not to get some attitude from some guy on the internet   Don't judge the whole forum by one person, most here are pretty decent.    Jim

 

7 hours ago, Derek up North said:

I think you're losing it. 2 different IP addresses. 1 in Florida, 1 in Oregon. Nobody posting from the 'grassy knoll' though. :)

 

Edited by jjrbus
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1 hour ago, Brynn&Cas said:

Like I said before, unless if you need me to quote myself on this, this is the  FIRST generator I have ever owned so, like I said before I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm on this site to maybe get some help, not to get some attitude from some guy on the internet . You could have mentioned all these other steps I had to go through to make it work in the beginning. I even asked about a hard start capacitorr in my very first post but  from what I recall you never mentioned it until now. So, back to the real problem at hand if you're done deciding I'm a troll. I was unaware that you have to break in a generator (remember, its my FIRST generator). Do you break it in by just running it, with a load, without a load? How will that help?

My airconditioner is a Duo-Therm by Dometic, it also says it's a Briskair. If my math is correct the watts it takes to start the ac unit is 7,620. To keep the unit running it takes 1,776 watts. In no way am I saying I did that correctly. So, if I install the hard start capacitor, you're saying it will take over 5,000 less to start the ac?

 

See, didn't I tell you Totem would be right along to help?

Don't take it the wrong way.  There is a lot going on with this and for the un-initiated, it can seem daunting.  There is a wealth of information to glean in the numerous threads with regard to both AC units and subsequently generators.

I'm not an expert but I'll give you my assessment of what you will likely need to do as at least a starting point.  This is an old RV with likely an old well worn AC unit.  You wouldn't be the first with problems.  First gain a bit of knowledge.  If we can all stop playing around here, perhaps we can actually assist you.  I'm not kidding, some of these people are as smart as they come. 

So those with some ideas, it is troubleshooting 101.  Lets see if we can figure out if this is a load issue.  jdemaris speaks a lot about the compressor loads and the math.  Me, I'm wondering if your starter cap might not have an issue.  Some have had problems and found the wiring to the cap loose.  I've some recollection of it.  You read a lot of posts over 6 years. 

So if we can get some brain power a little better than mine and come up with a plan, you on board?  Sorry I poked a bit of fun. It was never intended to be at your expense. 

Edited by Back East Don
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59 minutes ago, Back East Don said:

See, didn't I tell you Totem would be right along to help?

Don't take it the wrong way.  There is a lot going on with this and for the un-initiated, it can seem daunting.  There is a wealth of information to glean in the numerous threads with regard to both AC units and subsequently generators.

I'm not an expert but I'll give you my assessment of what you will likely need to do as at least a starting point.  This is an old RV with likely an old well worn AC unit.  You wouldn't be the first with problems.  First gain a bit of knowledge.  If we can all stop playing around here, perhaps we can actually assist you.  I'm not kidding, some of these people are as smart as they come. 

So those with some ideas, it is troubleshooting 101.  Lets see if we can figure out if this is a load issue.  jdemaris speaks a lot about the compressor loads and the math.  Me, I'm wondering if your starter cap might not have an issue.  Some have had problems and found the wiring to the cap loose.  I've some recollection of it.  You read a lot of posts over 6 years. 

So if we can get some brain power a little better than mine and come up with a plan, you on board?  Sorry I poked a bit of fun. It was never intended to be at your expense. 

AC works well on shore power so is a strong indication that there is not an issue,  no guaranty, just an indication.  Jim

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1 minute ago, jjrbus said:

AC works well on shore power so is a strong indication that there is not an issue,  no guaranty, just an indication.  Jim

I hate talking around a problem rather than address it directly.  I am not competent enough to do that.  I tried to make that clear.  I do however remember a post regarding the starting cap wiring just not all the details.

So I'll address this in the form of a question.  If the cap was out of the circuit, would the AC still be able to start off a normal house breaker?  How about if the starter cap was weak?  I've got a clamp on amp meter for one of my fluke meters but that's not going to help the discussion.  Perhaps you could access that NASA super computer and model it for me.

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17 minutes ago, Back East Don said:

I hate talking around a problem rather than address it directly.  I am not competent enough to do that.  I tried to make that clear.  I do however remember a post regarding the starting cap wiring just not all the details.

So I'll address this in the form of a question.  If the cap was out of the circuit, would the AC still be able to start off a normal house breaker?  How about if the starter cap was weak?  I've got a clamp on amp meter for one of my fluke meters but that's not going to help the discussion.  Perhaps you could access that NASA super computer and model it for me.

All above my pay grade, I always have to stumble through and ask questions and hope others pitch in.  The only way I would know if there were a cap issue is if the unit did not start, hummed or started very slowly.   All of this is difficult to track down without the right tools.

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Its a bit late, but would the Predator run the fan only in the AC? The Briskair site says the minimum generator is 2500w for the 11,000btu AC and 3500w for the 13,500. 

Well there a bunch of experts on the net who know more than the AC MFG.

Unfortunately Y'all is bring a knife to a gun fight. As JDE has pointed some watts is more equal than other watts. You just need more watts some how.

My Onan 2800 would NOT start a 13500btu AC, with a booster cap it would. Most of the Onan surge rating comes from a huge flywheel.  

Edited by WME
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I suspect the booster caps are over rated. Poking around the net a bit when I was trying to get my AC to work it appears that some caps are only capable of producing 3 amps. The 3 amps is only a guess not a fact, terms like farrads and  such are used, which mean nothing to me. My genset would not start my AC, I added a hard start cap and the Honda 2000 would start the 11K btu AC, but not in hot weather.

Farad - How Capacitors Work | HowStuffWorks

electronics.howstuffworks.com/capacitor2.htm

A capacitor's storage potential, or capacitance, is measured in units called farads. A 1-farad capacitor can store one coulomb (coo-lomb) of charge at 1 volt.

 

How does a DIYI'er go comparison shopping with information like that?  Adding a cap that is  3 amps to a AC that is drawing in excess of 60 amps would be a 5% increase in starting power.  Enough, well maybe?

I babble on a bit about this  only because I find it interesting.     Jim

                                                                                             

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18 hours ago, Back East Don said:

While those names may be derogatory, the early french worked with the native population far better than the subsequent English did.  In my opinion, the English just ruined the place but I have a French leaning bias.

I agree 100%   The French (not counting the Jesuit priests) not only were willing to live with the Indians, they often intermarried with them and had children who learned all the languages.  The English were pretty horrible and did all they could to destroy Indian culture.  The Jesuit Relations offer many volumes of "first contact" with Indians that surpasses any other written record of what Indian life was like.  The movie "Black Robe" does a great job portraying some of that.  Especially the Hurons, Iroquois, and those Jacques Cartier called the "dirty rotten Indians", the Algonkins (excuse spelling since there are endless variations).

Some of my family is from "New Scotland" also.  Half my family is from Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia and the other half from southern France, department Ariege.  I have a distant grandmother who is famous in Nova Scotia and Canadian history and THAT is pretty rare for a woman. Cecile Boudreau (again with endless spelling variations).  She led people "out of slavery" from Port Royal, down through Canada.  Unlike many other Nova Scotia refugees at the time that fled to Louisiana and became "Cajuns" (shortened from "Acadiens), she led them to Quebec and settled in Nicolet.  Seems women rarely get credit for anything good in history books and she is an exception.  So my first New Scotland ancestors were Pitres (French for "clown") and they arrived mid 1600s.  Then Boudreau, Tessier, Bel Isle, Le Duc, Rene ditte Cottret, Desmarets, etc.  Makes me think back to the Dick Van Dyke show because his name was "Rob Pitre" but pronounced "PIT-Ree."  My name of Pitre is pronounce "PEET."

I know I am WAY off topic here so I'll stop. Interested conversation though - at least it ought to be to anyone interested in American Indian history or French-Canadian history.

http://www.biographi.ca/en/bio/boudreau_cecile_5E.html

boudreau.jpg

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ok ok, I believe you that you are real thanks to Derek.

That being said, I DID advise you on a 13500 rooftop AC not being what you would want if running on generator BEFORE you went and bought one.

I advised that you get a new AC in that case or a 3000 watt + genny.

Now that being said , I gave you the how to if you want to hack the 13500 in the 5 steps earlier.

Also, JJRBUS is totally wrong on the SPP6, dont listen to him until you CHECK your capacitor in your AC. If your cap is smaller and lower rated than the SPP6 I guarantee it will help to start it.

I know this because my stock 13500 coleman Mach 3 absolutely would NOT start with the stock factory starting capacitor that was the size of a film can. the Supco was much larger and higher rated. Once in It WOULD start easily in lower temps... and in higher temps and altitudes I would have to run the fan first for a bit and try it and back off try it and back off till it would catch. Trying it too long would trip the predator overload.

 

So let me apologize for jumping the gun and calling troll so fast but like I said, not following break in on the generator and trying to start that AC will ruin the generator unless you follow break in procedure...which takes hours of running with small or no load.

Its in the instruction manual. Also you need to add oil to it...

Hope this helps.

I would advise getting a coleman Mach 1 power saver edition 11,000 BTU and that predator as a good combo. If you want to use the AC you have , Again the Honda 3000 or the Yamaha 2800 are your better bets, Though I would STILL advise the supco no matter what.

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3 hours ago, jjrbus said:

I suspect the booster caps are over rated. Poking around the net a bit when I was trying to get my AC to work it appears that some caps are only capable of producing 3 amps. The 3 amps is only a guess not a fact, terms like farrads and  such are used, which mean nothing to me. My genset would not start my AC, I added a hard start cap and the Honda 2000 would start the 11K btu AC, but not in hot weather.

Farad - How Capacitors Work | HowStuffWorks

 
electronics.howstuffworks.com/capacitor2.htm

A capacitor's storage potential, or capacitance, is measured in units called farads. A 1-farad capacitor can store one coulomb (coo-lomb) of charge at 1 volt.

 

How does a DIYI'er go comparison shopping with information like that?  Adding a cap that is  3 amps to a AC that is drawing in excess of 60 amps would be a 5% increase in starting power.  Enough, well maybe?

I babble on a bit about this  only because I find it interesting.     Jim

                                                                                             

this is all moot if your AC has a bad , small crappy cap. If your AC has a huge awesome cap then sure it could be better than the spp6... you need to check what the Original Owner put in there.

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