Hair/hare brained idea begins

[jjrbus]

Did some steel shopping, I was surprised steel is still affordable, this project should come in under $40 for steel.  I will have to pay to have it welded as I can no longer see the puddle so that will add quite a bit to the cost. plus paint and misc,   "misc" is always a big part of the expense of any project I attempt. 

The current frame extension appears to be solid so I should have no issue there. 

I do not have an accurate way to weight this, so the steel is "about" 40 lbs. adding the genset at 46 lbs and the AC at 59 lbs and the aluminum truck box at ??  Should put me around 200 lbs total. I am going to have to accept the fact that adding a big vice or an anvil to the box is out of the question

Comparing what is available and looking at commercially available racks, I decided on 14 gauge 1 1/4" and 1 1/2"  square tubing for this project. 

Any thoughts, Ideas, suggestions, input or wisecracks greatly appreciated, even you lurkers are welcome to chip in!           Jim

 

[jjrbus]

Got a bit of metal cut today and did some figuring and adjusting. As the day goes on I end up in direct sun and have to throw in the towel, so more fun tomorrow. 

Spent some time looking and found a welder I am going to try, I go to him and his rate is $36 hour with a $50 minimum. 

 I notice I have a 4 prong trailer plug and my new lights have 5 wires each so will be asking questions about that when I get there.  I also do not have a key for the box, it has push button lock which I know nothing about.

                                                                      Jim

 

[ToyoGuy]

Looks good so far, no room for heckling at any rate....  Probably an unnecessary comment and don't take offense, but don't know if you're just clamped-up underneath, or already welded-up with your three tubes coming off the frame. With my frame reinforcing and carrier-assembly work, I tried to "measure three-times" then bench-fabricate everything I could, to minimize welding upside-down and near other components underneath. Other than that,if you have the weasel-hides left over, and aren't already so equipped , (couldn't tell from pix)  I highly recommend a back-up camera. It was just great before, now, with the addition of a rack, it's a must-have for me for parking. Also, if you haven't made up your mind as to a paint coating, I highly recommend Rustoleum hammered finish brush-on paint. It does come in black and other colors, and other than POR 15, a MUCH more expensive product for rough-service areas, it has surpassed all my expectations as a go-to rust-proofing coating for just these type of projects. If prepped correctly, (just clean steel, no primer necessary) it's a very tenacious product, even considering your weather climate there in Fla. Here on the left coast, it costs about 9.00 a Qt. at Home Depot.

BR,

TG

[jjrbus]

Thanks for the response.  It is clamped up, off to the welder in a couple hours.

Interesting on the paint.  I used Rustoleum Hammered on the wheels and have been unhappy with it.  It stays soft far too long and quickly showed rust.  I spent a lot of time on prep, pressure washed, sanded and primed.  I don't see using POR 15 on this project either.

[Back East Don]

On 7/9/2016 at 9:12 PM, jjrbus said:

 I notice I have a 4 prong trailer plug and my new lights have 5 wires each so will be asking questions about that when I get there.

The new lights have a back up function adding the fifth wire.  Options go from omitting it to fishing a wire to one of the back up bulb fixture.  If you have something like a fox and hound wire tracer, you could connect that to the bulb fixture and trace which wire underneath is the back up light and tap into that.  Hardest part is getting the spare wire routed if that is the choice.

[WME]

Just in case you want to take the box on and off for some reason

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/58550

[jjrbus]

Box and most of rack is going to be easy to disassemble, actually only 2 pieces of 1 1/2" square tubing welded to frame. Not 100% sure how all this will work out and want to leave my options open.  With an eye to the future mounting the mighty Honda in the existing genny compartment and doing away with box on back. Or could put on larger box with disposable chinese genset

Welder was great at getting everything functional, square and straight, but his welds are not pretty, cost me $90 for 2 1/2 hours.

[ToyoGuy]

Sorry to hear about the hammered paint failure on the wheels and in general.I know what you mean, it's pretty gooey stuff and skins over quickly, but takes a long time to dry hard.  Heck, now I'm going to have to check all my previous repair/paint spots for rust! I guess I may be wrong about the humidity there in Fla. vs Ca.  I too was going to use the stuff for wheels, then I found out that Les Schwab would sandblast and powder-coat @ $25 per wheel (in 2013, not sure now). Mine are now starting to show a bit of rust in the slot edges 2+ yrs later, but my fronts were stained and rusted so bad from PO, that I would have paid $35 ea, just to get them blasted. Your spare looks quite "rustless" and correctly coated, what did you end up using? On the rest, I am a huge fan of reverse-ability and keeping options open, most of the time I spent re-designing things in and outside of my RV were about being able to make sure the next guy could gain access and repair / replace / change things. Sorry to hear about the welding-puddle thing, I now have cheaters in my welding mask lens

PS I know what you mean about the cost of "misc".

TG

[WME]

Choices for dealing with rust

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html

[Back East Don]

26 minutes ago, WME said:

Choices for dealing with rust

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html

I know it is infantile but every time I see a link for that site, the theme for The Good, The Bad & The Ugly pops in my head.  Quintessential Eastwood.

[jjrbus]

1 hour ago, ToyoGuy said:

Sorry to hear about the hammered paint failure on the wheels and in general.I know what you mean, it's pretty gooey stuff and skins over quickly, but takes a long time to dry hard.  Heck, now I'm going to have to check all my previous repair/paint spots for rust! I guess I may be wrong about the humidity there in Fla. vs Ca.  I too was going to use the stuff for wheels, then I found out that Les Schwab would sandblast and powder-coat @ $25 per wheel (in 2013, not sure now). Mine are now starting to show a bit of rust in the slot edges 2+ yrs later, but my fronts were stained and rusted so bad from PO, that I would have paid $35 ea, just to get them blasted. Your spare looks quite "rustless" and correctly coated, what did you end up using? On the rest, I am a huge fan of reverse-ability and keeping options open, most of the time I spent re-designing things in and outside of my RV were about being able to make sure the next guy could gain access and repair / replace / change things. Sorry to hear about the welding-puddle thing, I now have cheaters in my welding mask lens

PS I know what you mean about the cost of "misc".

TG

The spare has been sitting in the shed since painted!  Here is the worst of the other 6, painted about a year ago with hammered.  Then another issue pop's up,   paint over 3 mils thick on duals has been cited as causing lug stud failure!   I did mine both sides, so will have to watch them carefully and retorque often.    I take prep seriously I do not want to do it twice and am 100% sure they were well prepped!

Edited July 11, 2016 by jjrbus

[jjrbus]

Being infantile is the best part of my life

[Back East Don]

17 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

Being infantile is the best part of my life

My wife says I act like I'm 12.  I think her estimate is off by +5 years at least.

[jjrbus]

The progress continues, I finished removing the bathroom window today and am surprised that there is no/none/nada/zilch framework around it!  On the bright side there is no sign of water leakage around window and no rot. Screws were fairly clean also.  But leaves me trying to figure out how to carry the weight of the AC? I can transfer most of the weight to the metal framework, but need to be able to stabilize movement, which I do not see a foam and paneling wall doing, at least not for long.   (still would like to see how they support the spare tire).

Also thinking about how to arrange genny in box and am wondering if aux fans are really needed?                              Jim

 

[WME]

Scrape out some of the foam and then epoxy in a long 1x2. Gluing it to the sides and the foam will make fairly strong support.

[jjrbus]

13 hours ago, WME said:

Scrape out some of the foam and then epoxy in a long 1x2. Gluing it to the sides and the foam will make fairly strong support.

Brilliant!   Why didn't I think of it??   Of course by the time I read your post I was off in a different direction, which while not as good idea will work.   Jim

[5Toyota]

I don't know if national supported the spare  which much of anything. I decided to get it off there as my dolphin had a reinforced reciver tube too bumper tube . I put my spare on a u bolt mount modified trailer mount. and I have a steel platform carrier I bought from harbor frt . rated for 300 pounds.

[jjrbus]

Rolling right along here, whatever can go wrong does and even things that can't go wrong do. I go to the store for 3 bolts and they only have 2 and the can of spray paint, that is more time than I want to spend on the computer to explain. I have a 4" and 5" hole saw, I need a 4 1/2"  My old neighbor who I figure was stealing my pencils moved and now the new neighbor must be a pencil thief also! Must be some kind of cult?

So anyway, taking a rain break and trying to cool off and replenish fluids, while I look up some things on the net, like operating temp of the mighty little Honda in a box.  Here is 2 pictures so 2000 words I do not have to type.    

Any input always greatly appreciated, even from lurkers.                   Jim

 

 

 

[Totem]

i cant wait to see a video of this in action. will be curious to see if it can keep up with FLA heat. My guess is that without some 12 volt oscilating fans to stir things upward the RV will get very cool on the floor and while standing the "Head Zone" will be hot and muggy.

Theres a reason they put AC on the roof...

-Lurker/Troll Out

[Derek up North]

23 minutes ago, Totem said:

... and while standing the "Head Zone" will be hot and muggy.

Easily solved by sitting down and consuming a cold adult beverage.

[Totem]

tis true; especially if its a labatts maximum ice. one of my favs when I lived in Canada.

[jjrbus]

Last summer I did a test with this, I jury rigged using duct tape and bailing wire and cardboard to the side window. In Hot humid FL weather it was adequate.  Keeping in mind that during the day here in God's waiting room I keep the house at 80 during the day and 75 at night.  I turn the AC down at night as it will not cycle enough to lower the humidity!

This was in a side window, I would be shocked if it will cool the over cab area during the day from the bath room. So circulating fans are on the drawing board.

[WME]

Head to flea bay and check out "through wall vent fans"

Idea from the cheap seats, you have a row of overhead cabinets down one side. Install the vent fan in the bathroom and vent it into the cabinets. Use them as a air duct to bring cool air to the front. A couple of heater swivel ducts ends would you direct the air around.

 

Edited July 20, 2016 by WME

[jjrbus]

You come up with the best ideas.  Unfortunately A fan in the shower blowing into the microwave will not work out and a fan in the closet blowing into the side of the fridge probably will not do much good either.

I can utilize the roof air fan to circulate air, to get things going. would not want to leave it on, it sounds like a 747 at takeoff!                         Jim

[Back East Don]

This O2 Cool fan is cheap and has a 12volt plug on the side.  If you have a cigarette lighter plug going to your house side battery, there are accessory cords to plug it in.  The battery base acts as a stand. Has a low and high speed. Not built in but I find it handy to have one of these because it is portable.  I bought mine 5 years ago and it has held up well and is fairly quiet.  A lot more quiet than that AC.  It is not huge and stows away easily.  If you want to make your own cord to go directly to your power center, I have some of the right size power connectors.  Just PM me and I'll put a couple in a bubble mailer bag.

Edited July 20, 2016 by Back East Don

[jjrbus]

The dilemma, the genset will be on so I should use 120 volt, but if I just want fan 12V would be better, I can use the fantastic but it is non directional, decisions decisions. 

Thanks for the offer.    Jim

[Back East Don]

2 hours ago, jjrbus said:

The dilemma, the genset will be on so I should use 120 volt, but if I just want fan 12V would be better, I can use the fantastic but it is non directional, decisions decisions. 

Thanks for the offer.    Jim

No problem. 

Just don't overthink it. 

You have enough on your plate. 

I know, easier said than done.

[WME]

Fantastic Fan...Endless Breeze. Hang from a couple of hooks in the bathroom door. Just  remember duck is a verb and not a noun.

[jjrbus]

OK, don't overthink and duck.  What if I forget to duck?  Maybe I should hang a ribbon from the fan, of course it would have to be an LED ribbon to see when it is dark out and to save electric it should be solar powered. How big a battery will it need? Should I get the Fantastic or spend hours on the net looking for something else to save 12 cents.   If I use a ribbon what color would be best, red, no that means stop or yellow for caution. But If I get visitors from Australia will red and yellow have the same meaning for them. I could go to Harbor Freight and get one of those driveway motion detectors to warn me but there is probably a cell phone app that can ring my cell phone as I approach. But what if I do not have cell phone coverage.  I could fabricate a motion activated linear actuator to raise the fan, but that would be hazardous for someone over 5' 10" tall..

Finding the hard way to do simple things for 68 years     Jim

[WME]

I like the idea of a motion sensor, a couple of electric actuators to raise it up and move to the side so a 6ft er would fit.... Or you could just remove it from the hanging hooks at night when the cooling load is less.

 

 

[jjrbus]

Oh sure and then gouge my head open on the hooks! Those TV attorneys would love you,  I will put one of their magnetic  cards on the hook

[Back East Don]

16 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

Oh sure and then gouge my head open on the hooks! Those TV attorneys would love you,  I will put one of their magnetic  cards on the hook

In St Augustine there is an old bank that was turned into a wedding venue.  A couple nights a week they have old school standards played on piano with a vocalist.  Set up the place with leather couches and chairs and one of the coolest LED lighting set ups.  Anyway they turned the vault into the bar. All of the shelving and glassware is hung by heavy duty magnets.  You could take a cue and use magnets and just hang it up then go this place and relax.  One of the coolest venues I've been to in a long time.  Magnets, how do they work?  It is almost like magic.

[jjrbus]

3 hours ago, Back East Don said:

In St Augustine there is an old bank that was turned into a wedding venue.  A couple nights a week they have old school standards played on piano with a vocalist.  Set up the place with leather couches and chairs and one of the coolest LED lighting set ups.  Anyway they turned the vault into the bar. All of the shelving and glassware is hung by heavy duty magnets.  You could take a cue and use magnets and just hang it up then go this place and relax.  One of the coolest venues I've been to in a long time.  Magnets, how do they work?  It is almost like magic.

Interesting, I was trying to do some buck riveting the other day and could not keep my cobbled together bucking bar in place so used a magnet.   Did you know that magnets break, I do now

[Back East Don]

26 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

Did you know that magnets break,

Early in my career I worked as a R&D tech for a metallurgical start up.  Among the many materials we worked with included developing neodymium magnet.powder for a metal injection molding process long before anyone had heard of them.  Magnets have pretty much followed me around my whole career as I've worked for a speaker and later a microphone manufacturer.  Oh also one of my hobbies is making instrument including developing my own magnetic pickups.  They break you say?

Alnico, ceramic, samarium and neo magnets all are very brittle.  This message is brought to you bu the US Magnetic Materials Association

Here is one of mine

[jjrbus]

Making a bit of progress, seem's like every little 10 minute job turns into 2 days with 5 trips to 7 different stores, getting real tiresome.   Enough of my whining.

The AC is almost done, a coat of paint on the inside. It is working way better than I thought, I have documented it with photographic proof for the naysayers and trolls